Plumbrbob

I picked up one of those caddy compressors $10


hoping to setup some type of OBA system something is better than nothing even if it proves to be slow

Plumbrbob

also grabbed a aftermaket transmission cooler for my power steering cooler since I am running a hydro ram now $5

Trail gear wants $79 + ship for a shiny purdy one

93toyrunner

I found the best mod of all on a 93 4runner 3vz for $50 oh yea headers, found on a roll over I was getting a different part when I saw somthing shinny on the side of the engine looked a little closer seen as I was actually not in the engine bay and I saw the stailess exhaust headers to tail pipe to bad half the exhaust was smashed and junk.

NYChopshop

Dear diary: Jackpot

B4Runner

This was the first mod I did to my 4Runner. The wiring might be a bit different since mine is a 1988, but here it is.

Just pics of how it looks.



I was tired of forgetting my keys and not being able to roll down the rear window, so I made my front switch constant hot too. Each of those 3 wires comes from the main harness inside the panel, and splits towards the new cargo switch and the front switch. (The front switch is a newer mod.)


Here is a diagram I found to originally get into the wire harness. (Didn't want to spend a lot of time trying to find it again, so I just scanned mine. Always keep notes! I just wished I marked exactly what wires I used.)

Don't worry about the Pin number, that's referring to the whole relay. I'm just going to use the numbers as a wire reference. (I cut out all wires that are for sure not needed.)

I do not recall if Pins 4 & 5 have corresponding colors on the wires on the switch. But those are the wires that you want to use on the switch. Connect Pin 4 (on switch) to Pin 11 (on harness) and connect Pin 5 (switch) to Pin 12 (harness.) For the main power source, you connect Pin 6 or Pin 8 to the middle wire on the switch, but I'm 99% sure its Pin 6. Be careful not to get Pins 1 & 12 mixed up as they are color coded the exact same way. Pins 1 & 3 are of a slightly thicker gauge and you do not want to mess with them.

I hope I helped. Good luck!

**EDIT: Notice that Pin 6's wire is "L" and Pin 11's is "L/." First of, realize that "L" stands for blue, (just incase the color didn't tell you that,) since "B" is already taken for black. And second, (Pin 11 is the only visible case shown here,) I came to find that the people who made the chart failed to realize that white doesn't show up on white. Pin 11 is really "L/W," as I came to learn for myself. The wires that only have one letter and no slash are just solidly that color. These are just a couple things I was confused on myself until I dug into the harness. Also, for this mod, it seems as though most everyone who does it doesnt realize that the harness is right there and they run the wires all the way from inside the tailgate and find a way into the body. The harness is right there. And lastly, I saw some one's write-up where he just used a simple generic double-throw switch from Kragen or somewhere. And he placed it right next to the tailgate handle. I thought it was very clever. It would not fit my tastes in my truck, simply because I like my way better, but it definately looked good.

OutlawMike

Here is a diagram I found to originally get into the wire harness. (Didn't want to spend a lot of time trying to find it again, so I just scanned mine. Always keep notes! I just wished I marked exactly what wires I used.)
[/QUOTE]

Thanks for posting this. I have the switch on my workbench and had been looking through the wiring diagrams to try to figure out which wires to tap into on the harness. This gives me a much better place to start from.

Thanks,

Mike

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

I would NEVER use junkyard U-Bolts. They are torqued pretty high, taking them off usually damages the threads and nuts. They keep your truck together. I'd spend a little bit of cash for the re-assurance that they aren't gonna snap out from under my truck. The retaining plates, I'd use, but not the u-bolts themselves.
I'm sure someone will argue this one, but your life could be in the balance for this one.

metalhed

why not use a Tacoma horn? Louder and not the Beep Beep kind on the older trucks.

Junk yard finds= 95 Four Runner seats for my sons 94 pick up, bolted right in no problems

dfarr67

What does the Chevy rear springs do for you?
I have a 1990 4runner 22re that was sold to me as a 1992- when I redid the front brakes I found out that the 92 rotors I bought are thicker than 90 oe and just ended up replacing everything- so I have upgraded the front brakes to thicker rotors- and matching callipers. Is this the v6 mod or is that something different again?
I have no complaints with stopping power- so what is the booster mod going to change?

seagullplayer

Not a mod but I got everything I needed to rebuild my front lockout for $6 at the junk yard...

They wanted more than the truck was worth at the parts place, and wouldn't sell me just one side.



Just had to throw that helo smiley in, first time I ever saw one.

graduatedpine

Gotta love Quagmire!!

dfarr67

Interesting- I got on Cardone's website for fitment of different calipers and my little upgrade got me the T100 caliper- part 19-1600.

LITLRED

I'm getting ripped off at my local picn n pull. I paid $20 each for a caddy compressor and an atf cooler

irab88

iTrader: (4)

may i bump?

anyone have pics of their caddy compressor and tank?

greatskiiiier

and that is why i drove 300 miles and paid $2200 for a 24 year old truck! (lurking through the thread and felt it was a good time to post)

greatskiiiier

cheap lift that flexes very good and can obv hold more weight in the bed, but requires relocated the hangers farther apart

and as for the beep-beep horn, i kinda like driving a truck that sounds like the road runner but moves like the coyote lol

irab88

iTrader: (4)

hopefully you don't mean Wile E. Coyote

greatskiiiier

fixed

icebear

My father in law owns a salvage yard here on long island and has been looking for a parts trucks for me....... Almost impossible to find even a junked 2nd gen runner. No such thing as a pull it yourself yard here.... Which sucks. However, due to this thread, I'm now the proud owner of a set of '63 chevy horns (their seriously loud) and a pair of '82 caddy air pumps. I'm planning on permanently mounting 1 on my runner with a pancake air tank where the spare used to sit and the other in the wifes Blazer......
so let's see.... Since finding this site I have done the following to the runner....
1. Changed the chrome molding around the wind shield with rubber molding.
2. Added 3 charger pionts, 2 in the back side of the console for the kids and
Thier games and one in rear.
3. A 1000w power converter.
4. A rear window switch for the back window located in the rear of the truck.
5. An MR2 100w alternator.

All from the "junk yard"!!!!!!!


Man I love this site......

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

So.....I saw Haston's rear tire carrier and it looks like it's a toyota OEM one from a different SUV. I sent him a PM recently but haven't heard back.



Wondering if you guys have found, for 1st gen 4runners, a swinging rear tire carrier (and even a bumper that it's attached to maybe?) that works on my truck? I don't weld so I'm looking for bolt on options, if they're out there....