BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

I have a 3/8 that runs IIRC 10-75 ft/lbs. That should be fine and a bunch of those bolts only need 12-13 pounds so the big ones are too big if they only go down to 20 or 25. I don't think anything is higher than 75. Wait, probably the crankshaft is. I'll have to go refresh my memory.

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

Yeah. 116. Still it's the only setting that high. Maybe you could borrow for the one bolt.

rogerman

Alright. Man it really sucks not knowing any gear heads out here.

flyingbrass

My old Craftsman 3/8" drive torque wrench starts at 5 ft/lbs and tops out at 75 ft/lbs.

The 1/2" drive Craftsman I borrowed (which has been calibrated within the past few years) starts at 25 ft/lbs and goes to over 200.

I also borrowed an inch pound torque wrench.

Overall, if I could only have one for doing a head gasket, given the above selection, I'd pick the 3/8". That's a compromise, but overall most suitable. Torque wrenches are generally most accurate somewhere within the middle of their ranges.

rogerman

Went to sears today. They had a 3/8 drive torque wrench on sale for 65 bucks (normally 85) so I grabbed it since the sale ended tomorrow and it was the last one. It goes from 10-75 ft-lbs. I figure I could use this thing again or sell it later on or just add it to my collection. Now I gotta order that gasket set from engnbldr, get the assorted cleaning stuff, get tune up items, oil and filter and... anything else I'm forgetting?

What should I use for general cleaning? I know of brake cleaner but what else should I pick up? What is the best way to get the old HG off?

rogerman

Oh and I was checking out the tires at the auto center. 31x10.5 BFG ATs are on sale for 155 bucks each. thats 620 bucks that I don't have I'm gonna check craigslist. only problem is out here the guys like em those wide kine tires haha.

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I use my torque wrench all the time. Totally worth having one around.

For the HG, plastic scrapers. You can carefully use a razor on the block since its cast iron, but plastic only on the head. Otherwise, some sort of general degreaser and lots of scotchbrite pads and a few little stiff plastic brushes or old toothbrushes for cleaning.

rogerman

gotcha. Ordered my gasket set and oil pump from engnbldr today. Ted is a good man and has decent prices.

rogerman

Big spender today. I just won an ebay auction for some v6 calipers and ordered an 1" brake master, clutch master and brake pad from wabfab. My brakes should be good now. I just gotta find a LSPV somewhere.

rogerman

Got my oil pump and gasket set today. I ordered on thursday or friday and it got here super fast! Here are two little upgrades I picked up. One local one not.




I know I don't have a 4runner nor a trail worthy truck let alone atleast 31 inch tires but I like gadgets and working on cars haha

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Nice! I love mine that came with my truck. I can't believe how CLEAN your truck is!!

92 TOY

subscribed

rogerman

Thanks man. The previous owner took amazing care of it so I'm trying to keep it up. Yeah finding an inclinometer was hard as hell. I ended up scoring it from a member here who happens to have a side business. At first I thought he was sketch and was going to screw me over but he didn't, he just used parcel post which took forever to get here. I'm still waiting for the mounting bracket.

rogerman

Got my v6 calipers in the mail today. Just waiting on Wabfab for my masters and pads.

flyingbrass

Bump on this question.

I am using a new head and had my block decked, so I didn't have to fuss with that junction, but removing the old gasket material from the intake manifold and other areas was a headache. Razor blades and gasket remover, trying not to gouge the aluminum. Rinse and repeat, over and over.

Cleaning gasket remnants off steel is easier. However, I've read that using scouring pads (green, red, whatever color, "scrubbie" pads) either by hand or as discs spun in a tool to clean the block is bad news. The grit gets into the engine and eventually causes all kinds of problems.

rogerman

Good point. So the general consensus is using gasket remover, razor blades, what else works? I have a feeling I'm going to spend a small fortune on cleaning products

rogerman

Just spent a fortune at walmart tonight
-Brake Cleaner
-Red high temp rtv/gasket maker
-blue locktite
-brake fluid
-simple green
-castrol gtx High mileage 10w40
-other small things like fusion paint, shop towels, lube.

still need to get
-Black FIPG
-Oil Filter
-Breaker bar (what length?)
-1/2 socket for crank
-small floor jack
-small kine stuff like cheater pipe and 2x4s

Am I missing anything?

92 TOY

get a 6 point 1/2'' drive 19mm impact socket for the crankshaft bolt.....I broke everything else less substantial than that.

I have an 18'' breaker bar and a 3 or 4 foot piece of black pipe that fits over the bar.

I used some generic "orange goop" to de-oil my parts and a pressure washer....worked very well.

Need some deep sockets, I believe a 12 or 14mm, get both just to be sure, to get the exhaust manifold undone from the down pipe.

PB Blaster is my best friend. stuff smells bad though.

pizza boxes or other pieces of cardboard to make templates for bolt pattern storage.

lots of sandwich bags...I use paper and write on them with a marker

lots of pictures too.

i wrote the disassembly order in a tablet so i can refer to it later

i'm sure there is more but that's all i can think of right now

92 TOY

how I took my crankshaft bolt off https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...emoval-193505/

I probably made it harder than it had to be, seems to be my thing...hahahaha...but this is what worked.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

We used a 24 inch breaker bar and some bailing wire.
get it on there, get the breaker bar UNDER the passenger side frame rail and use bailing wire to make it snug. Engine turns clockwise when you face the front of the truck, so when it cranks in this setup, it will pull against the bar, which is against the bottom of the frame. It's important to make sure it's snug (bailing wire) before you bump the starter so that it doesn't fly off!

when ready, get car in neutral, disconnect coil from distirbutor (so you don't get a spark and START your engine (holy hell that'd be bad with the breaker bar on there!). Then, with everyone safely out of the way, turn your engine over a couple times, bumping it (it should not start, just turn/crank). This should give you enough torque to break the bolt.

You of course want to do this with the radiator and all that out of the way first, so you don't break it.

We used regular 1/2 inch socket (craftsman) and you could actually SEE the stress marks on the socket afterward -cool!

Good luck!