YotaND

Yeah, I was assuming, which may be the wrong thing to do, that all speakers were hooked up the same as the others and that we were talking about the polarity of the speaker unit as a whole and not the individual speakers. Because the sound is a sine wave that passes through 0V and is both positive and negative at different points in time you are very correct in your statement but reversing them just aint right. It may not change a thing as far as sound goes but it would bug the crap out of me to know it is set up wrong like that.

shoes138

yea i no lol! i gotta check the voltage and voltage drop the bumpin is talkin about. im gonna prolly check the speakers like yotand stated. Cant do it today thou got easter plans but ill let you guys know by manana

Bumpin' Yota

Actually having speakers out of phase does cause issues. In most vehicles its pronounced by a very diffuse midbass instead of something you can localize. It is also characterized by minimal amounts of bass output. Now if you wire your subs out of phase, when you crank up the bass the only thing you'll hear is motor noise and windage noise as air moves out the port... You might also hear the coils tapping on the back plate if you push things too hard...lol You might also hear the cone itself tap the basket if you are the owner of a bottomless design found in many of TC's subs such as eclipse....

In some instances however - mainly in custom kickpanels, () reversing polarity of a tweet or woofer can help with creating a soundstage with real depth.

And the possiblility of the amp shutting off due to a toasted REM turn on is definately possible, but at this point, im not buying it. Once he's THROUGHLY check all connections, then that becomes a distinct possibility to explore imo. I've seen this stuff happen quite a bit over the years in people's vehicles and its usually something really really simple, like a loose ground or a loose power wire going into the fuse holder, distro block, at amp, bad fuse, etc.

Start with the simple stuff first, then work up in complexity. 8 times out of 10 it's the simple stuff that'll getcha.

shoes138

Motor off-
Amp- 12.61
Bat- 12.66

impedence is the horseshoe symbol rite? well i took the measurement on it.
L Channel- 4.2
R channel- 4.0

Motor on-
Bat- 14.49
Amp-12.8

Pause with motor on
Bat- 14.5
Amp- 13.0

Truck off again-
Bat- 13.23
Amp-13.23

Hope this is good enough bumpin, And anyother wanna chime in they can! thanxs again. i check on my ground wire, it wasnt loose but it was on a painted area so i sanded the painted area down then put the wire back in the same location.

Bumpin' Yota

hmmm the 1.75 voltage difference bugs me but ill ignore that for the time being...

Has the system stoped the shenannigans since you regrounded? Check connections along your power supply line as well. If all connections are nice and tight, then we should check the REM line.

Ok now crank the system and monitor the voltage at your amp. Do the same at the battery on the same track. I wanna see how bad the voltage drop is.



things to check by disconnecting them, inspecting the ends and reconnecting neatly and cleanly:

1. Battery ground terminal
2. Chassis grounding point next to battery
3. Plenum to Chassis ground at the back of the 3vz-e's plenum
4. Battery Positive terminal
5. Check battery Electrolyte level
6. Both input and output of the fuse holder
7. Check fuse using resistance
8. Both input and output of the power wire in the distrobution block if you have one
9. Finally the connection at the amp.

shoes138

would a fuse block make a difference??

Bumpin' Yota

If one side of the wires were connected very well on the fuse block sure. Disconnect, clean, and reconnect it on both sides.

shoes138

after re grounding the ground wire the problem was still there and i did all the disconnecting and still problem still there, ill check the voltage drop manana like you suggested

UncleBob

Swap in a new (or another) battery and try again. Take one from the old ladys car, she won't mind.

Battery still suspect unless load tested. Plus, it's 8 years old. It is well beyond it's normal life.

shoes138

lol yea i kinda figured that, i cant take from my old ladies car she would kill me if she finds out somthing is missing.

GV27

Most amps have a light (orange a lot of times) that comes on if it sees a short or is overheating or something like that. Might want to check to see if your amp has a light like that and if it is lit when the amp cuts out.

UncleBob

Like she knows what brand battery is in there. Mine is lucky to be able to point at the battery. Tell her you're buffing her canuter valve, and to get inside and finish cooking the chicken.

(just kidding ladies...)

crazyyota

I work at sears... those diehard batteries arn't bad but 8 years is a long time. just take it into your closest sears and they will do a free full load test on the battery with it in the car and they will also check your charging system for free.

shoes138

lol yea maybe

GV27- yea the light turns red when it goes out. it usually green when powered and working.

shoes138

heres a video 2 help describe whats going on along with the DMM checking the voltage.
video of the battery voltage
http://s102.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=MVI_0733.flv

Video of The amp
http://s102.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=MVI_0732.flv

Another
http://s102.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=MVI_0731.flv

GV27

I think that's your clue - in my experience the thing just shuts down if it is seeing an under volt. The red light usually indicates a problem of some sort - short, overheating, etc. Has anything changed with the ventilation for the amp?

edit: but if your battery is 8 years old, it's probably about time to change it out!

bigpest88

thoes wires look a little too small for me....

Im running a 750watt amp with a 5GA wire pushing two 12's at 4ohms each and no problem......(knock on wood)lol

TNRabbit

Yeah, those are a little small; what are they, 16 or 14 gauge? I run very short (18") 12 gauge on my Infinity Perfect 10D's, parallel for a 1 ohm load. My power wire from the battery is 4 gauge to the distribution block, then 8 gauge from there to the amps. I'm running 1000 REAL watts into the two Infinities. What amp is that you're running, shoes? What amperage is your alternator?

I'll bet good money the main problem is your battery.

shoes138

yea to my fuse block its a 4 gauge wire and its a 12 gauge going to the amp. but if it was a wiring problem would that effect the other amp?

UncleBob

Hurry up and replace that battery. If it has a pro-rated warranty, you might be able to get back something like, uh, 28 cents.