'88 4run - 2" or 3" body lift?
#23
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No, but they add spring rate... They have to, to raise it up...
It can make the ride worse...
opps, that and some will sag right back down to the what it was before, after some time or so many cycles... Like off roading a lot.
It can make the ride worse...
opps, that and some will sag right back down to the what it was before, after some time or so many cycles... Like off roading a lot.
Last edited by tried4x2signN; 08-31-2010 at 06:35 PM.
#24
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im running 3" body lift and and bj spacers and love both of em. they gave me a good amount of lift to run 35's at a fairly good price. you will find that 99.9 percent of people that run body lifts love them and never have a problem. as far as instalation goes neither is really bad just a lil agravating. however the shop i used to work at had a lil trouble with the bj spacer but we didn't have problems with anything else. hoped that helped man
#25
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yea, backgate, thank you idk. i guess i'm still torn. if the difference in Cog isn't that significant, the bl is way cheaper. and like tried is sayin, the leafs will prob eventually sag out, leaving the nose riding high. what are you runnin on the rear backgate? leafs or zuks??
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I just put in new leaf springs, when I did the shocks, and someone had mentioned longer shackles. I was thinking about doin those anyways to level her out, she's got saggy butt.....
but i'm still not clear on the advantages of sl over bl. is there that big a difference in the CoG? what i really want is to get the drivetrain parts further from the ground without having to put monster tires on her, she's a daily driver, ~250 m/week. 31's are barely practical, lol.
but i'm still not clear on the advantages of sl over bl. is there that big a difference in the CoG? what i really want is to get the drivetrain parts further from the ground without having to put monster tires on her, she's a daily driver, ~250 m/week. 31's are barely practical, lol.
Last edited by khat toy; 08-31-2010 at 07:13 PM.
#27
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im running a pro comp add a leaf. i just notced sagging recently after about a year. so for 30 bucks it aint bad at all. honestly i think you should do a body lift. it makes every thing 10 times easier to work on gives you noticeable lift plus you already had one and know the pro's and cons. either way you go your gonna be happy with the results. oh and im pretty sure its been stated on here that suspension lifts raises your cog more than a body lift. suspension lifts raises the whole truck instead of just the body
#28
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that's what I was thinking about the CoG, too. But i couldn't think of any other reason to do a susp. lift instead. i don't really need it, i just like it. it is a lot easier to get to lots of stuff with the bl. i appreciate the input!
#29
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Can't you do add-a-leaf and zuk mod to keep the leaf from sagging? The guy I got my runner from put on a 2" body lift and 31s and I feel like the BL was in vein for this size tire..
#30
dude you need to do some searching, you just keep adding noob questions on top of noob questions, everything you've asked for far as been answered many times
if you're springs are sagging, then spring rate has obviously gone done to adding an AAL will bring it back to stock or if good, will make it stiffer as not to sag again
and its the rear of the truck, who cares about the people back there? lol (glad i have a pickup, the stiffer the springs are the more ˟˟˟˟ i can carry lol)
a bl does nothing for offroad performance exp allow room for larger tires, if thats all you care about go for it (my rear was sagging so i raised it up and put 33s on it, they're prob rub like a mother offroad but theyre fine on the street and i dont do any offroading that i get alot of articulation anyway)
and if you're asking if you should just go SAS at this point, than obviously you shouldn't, its alot of work, alot of money and if you dont have a really good 220 welder and skill with it you should not be cutting and welding your frame
in short: just do the body lift cuz thats what you had last time and liked it,order everything form 4crawler and bolt it up and enjoy, and order everything he says you need for the 3" you want to lift it
if you're springs are sagging, then spring rate has obviously gone done to adding an AAL will bring it back to stock or if good, will make it stiffer as not to sag again
and its the rear of the truck, who cares about the people back there? lol (glad i have a pickup, the stiffer the springs are the more ˟˟˟˟ i can carry lol)
a bl does nothing for offroad performance exp allow room for larger tires, if thats all you care about go for it (my rear was sagging so i raised it up and put 33s on it, they're prob rub like a mother offroad but theyre fine on the street and i dont do any offroading that i get alot of articulation anyway)
and if you're asking if you should just go SAS at this point, than obviously you shouldn't, its alot of work, alot of money and if you dont have a really good 220 welder and skill with it you should not be cutting and welding your frame
in short: just do the body lift cuz thats what you had last time and liked it,order everything form 4crawler and bolt it up and enjoy, and order everything he says you need for the 3" you want to lift it
#31
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yea, oregon, i'm running 31's with no lift at all and have way more than enough clearance.
LOL skiiiier. sorry if i asked noob questions. in terms of off road mods, i guess i still am.
my springs are new. I put them in less than a month ago.
i'm not looking for performance, tho i'm guessing since you mention it there is some performance advantage with a suspension lift.
i don't recall asking of i should go SAS, but it's actually on my list of things to do eventually. I don't do welding, but my uncle has been welding for a living for a couple decades, he helps me out with that stuff.
the question wasn't really whether to do a bl or an sl, it was more asking how difficult a 3" is to install, since kiyo had said to me a while back that there are lots of reasons not to do a 3" bl. the only reason i was questioning about sl is because so many ppl were suggesting to do that instead, and i still don't know why.
LOL skiiiier. sorry if i asked noob questions. in terms of off road mods, i guess i still am.
my springs are new. I put them in less than a month ago.
i'm not looking for performance, tho i'm guessing since you mention it there is some performance advantage with a suspension lift.
i don't recall asking of i should go SAS, but it's actually on my list of things to do eventually. I don't do welding, but my uncle has been welding for a living for a couple decades, he helps me out with that stuff.
the question wasn't really whether to do a bl or an sl, it was more asking how difficult a 3" is to install, since kiyo had said to me a while back that there are lots of reasons not to do a 3" bl. the only reason i was questioning about sl is because so many ppl were suggesting to do that instead, and i still don't know why.
#33
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Cool thanks scottie. from what i've been reading on the '88 i'd need to extend brake lines, electrical wires, get brackets to lower the radiator, extend the steering column... the 3" i had in the '86 didn't need a shift extender, it was just really short inside, lol. it took me a minute to figure out why it semed so much longer in the '88. or maybe whoever installed it put in a longer lever, and that's why it seems long in the '88, since i swapped the tranny out. I don't mind the work, i just don't want to bite off more than i can chew, lol.
#34
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If I was even contemplating 2" I'd get a 3".
That way a 2" DT lift will let more air flow through the bay, and my man-hands be able to grasp more stuff...
Or, have the same amount of room it has now, and lift the DT up 3" for max clearance, Clarence...
Either way is win as far as I'm concerned... And a better lift than a bracket if you ask me.
That way a 2" DT lift will let more air flow through the bay, and my man-hands be able to grasp more stuff...
Or, have the same amount of room it has now, and lift the DT up 3" for max clearance, Clarence...
Either way is win as far as I'm concerned... And a better lift than a bracket if you ask me.
if body lifts were so bad then we would here about it from the land of Oz. the limit for suspension lift in Oz is 2" so they have to run body lifts.
#35
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how do you do a drive train lift? when i put my body lift on i did it cause it was a pretty cheap way to get lift and it does make evertything 100x's easier to work on
#36
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i put a 2in BL on and didnt have to do any steering extensions of any type. i just did radiator drop brackets and shifter extenders. but you dont have to do the shifter extenders, they just bring it back to stock length. i also have bj spacers and a AAL. i think its the perfect setup. the AAL is stiff, but you get used to it. ve had 0 problems from my bj spacers after 3 years. the body lift is easy to install. i did the bed bymyself, and had an extra set of hands for the cab. all i used was sockets wrenches a crowbar and a Hi Lift jack. hope this helps
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I'd like to put a little lift in my 4runner to bring it up to where my old one was, and I'm pretty sure it had a 3" lift, but I've been recommended against that. I've searched extensively in the forums, but I can't find any good explanations to why 3" can be a problem. Though, I didn't install the lift in my old truck, I got it like that, so I don't know if it's an install problem, or if the problems are in how it rides and handles with that much lift. I liked the way my old one handled, but the interior was stripped, so it still had a pretty low CoG. If anyone can give me any ideas or feedback I'd really appreciate it.
I but a 2" lift on my springs
and run coil and leaf on rear ...........
#38
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thanks for all the suggestions and info! i guess i'll probably just end up doing the 2" bl. with all the interior stuff, this one feels a little more top heavy, so 3" might be too much. but i do like all the space it makes, especially since she has consistent probs with the starter.
#39
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