88 2wd axle and 3rd teardown and rebuild!
04-10-2010, 04:47 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Downtown Heckronto, Ontario, Soviet Canuckistan
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
88 2wd axle and 3rd teardown and rebuild!
Howdy! Been awhile since I posted a thread in here, and since there seems to be a few more 2wd owners looking for info lately (all '88s by the look of it too! 'sup guys) that the infamous 'yota 5-lug rear axle deserves to have some thread-love.
So, let's begin, here it is in all it's rusty glory, the 'yota 5-lug rear. Some things to note about this guy, his code number is G662 which stands for 8" ring gear (this is off a 4spd, and from what I've been told by a Toyota Tech the 4spd 2wds actually had 8" due to being considered "work trucks" while the 5spd setups got gimped with the 7.5" and have an F instead of a G in the code), 3.071 gearing (le sigh), and 2 pinion gears (I think it means the spiders). That's right, this is a 5-lug with a 8" 4cyl 3rd from factory. (click thumbs for huge btw)
e: You've likely noticed after seeing this that the LSPV arm and bracket are missing, my entire LSPV setup is long gone but for those of you who still have one (holy crap your LSPV still works!?) make sure to unbolt it from the bracket before dropping the rear axle. The PO of my truck replaced the LSPV setup with a manual valve that's mounted along my truck's firewall. Even if your LSPV isn't slagged by now, I'd highly suggest replacing it with a manually adjustable valve, it's much cheaper than trying to fix an LSPV and if you're gonna do a lift it'll save you the hassle of having to remount the arm.
A couple weeks ago, while working on removing my leafs (one's actually still attached to the truck, by half of half of a hanger bolt, my cut-off wheel got too small and the bushing wouldn't play nice and let me rotate the bolt) and the axle, I discovered that my 3rd had started leaking gear oil, but not from around the diff gasket. It seems that the oil is leaking from between the flange and 3rd housing so I think the seal there is probably blown, I'll know more when I take the 3rd apart when I go to put a locker in and regear (probably going with 4.10s or 4.30s, I want to run 31s, don't see the point in bigger than that on a pre-runnered 2wd).
So, here's the top of the 3rd, as you can see it looks a lot like the 4wd 4cyl 3rd except the top fin sticks out a little more.
Here are the backing plates of both drums, you can still see some of the original black paint on them, however they're useless and need to be replaced. Sad, but unfortunately the metal rim that's supposed to go around them (and I guess protect the gap around the drum from getting filled with crap) has long since rusted and been ripped off both sides, as you can see by the rusty tabs that look like they serve no real purpose. They're actually in rougher shape than they look, a lot of that cancer runs fairly deep.
Here are the drums, showing off their 5 lug studs as if that's all god intended them to have. Here they just look rusty, and at this point I was hoping they'd be in good enough shape for reuse.
The above pictures show what things were like before I started taking the axle apart this weekend, next post will contain the teardown of the axle itself.
So, let's begin, here it is in all it's rusty glory, the 'yota 5-lug rear. Some things to note about this guy, his code number is G662 which stands for 8" ring gear (this is off a 4spd, and from what I've been told by a Toyota Tech the 4spd 2wds actually had 8" due to being considered "work trucks" while the 5spd setups got gimped with the 7.5" and have an F instead of a G in the code), 3.071 gearing (le sigh), and 2 pinion gears (I think it means the spiders). That's right, this is a 5-lug with a 8" 4cyl 3rd from factory. (click thumbs for huge btw)
e: You've likely noticed after seeing this that the LSPV arm and bracket are missing, my entire LSPV setup is long gone but for those of you who still have one (holy crap your LSPV still works!?) make sure to unbolt it from the bracket before dropping the rear axle. The PO of my truck replaced the LSPV setup with a manual valve that's mounted along my truck's firewall. Even if your LSPV isn't slagged by now, I'd highly suggest replacing it with a manually adjustable valve, it's much cheaper than trying to fix an LSPV and if you're gonna do a lift it'll save you the hassle of having to remount the arm.
A couple weeks ago, while working on removing my leafs (one's actually still attached to the truck, by half of half of a hanger bolt, my cut-off wheel got too small and the bushing wouldn't play nice and let me rotate the bolt) and the axle, I discovered that my 3rd had started leaking gear oil, but not from around the diff gasket. It seems that the oil is leaking from between the flange and 3rd housing so I think the seal there is probably blown, I'll know more when I take the 3rd apart when I go to put a locker in and regear (probably going with 4.10s or 4.30s, I want to run 31s, don't see the point in bigger than that on a pre-runnered 2wd).
So, here's the top of the 3rd, as you can see it looks a lot like the 4wd 4cyl 3rd except the top fin sticks out a little more.
Here are the backing plates of both drums, you can still see some of the original black paint on them, however they're useless and need to be replaced. Sad, but unfortunately the metal rim that's supposed to go around them (and I guess protect the gap around the drum from getting filled with crap) has long since rusted and been ripped off both sides, as you can see by the rusty tabs that look like they serve no real purpose. They're actually in rougher shape than they look, a lot of that cancer runs fairly deep.
Here are the drums, showing off their 5 lug studs as if that's all god intended them to have. Here they just look rusty, and at this point I was hoping they'd be in good enough shape for reuse.
The above pictures show what things were like before I started taking the axle apart this weekend, next post will contain the teardown of the axle itself.
Last edited by Magnusian; 04-10-2010 at 06:49 PM.
The following users liked this post:
jromyfeesh5 (01-17-2023)
04-10-2010, 04:49 PM
#2
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Downtown Heckronto, Ontario, Soviet Canuckistan
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Ok! Teardown time! I started around about 4pm this afternoon, a lot later than I wanted to, had to hunt down a 24mm socket because my 23mm one wasn't fitting on the fill and drain plugs. To note, I am fairly certain the OEM plugs ARE indeed 23mm, but mine were a bit mangled (looked like someone tried to use an adjustable to take them off before), I would suggest to anyone taking their axle apart for the first time to make sure their socket fits the plugs snugly, the rust can make taking them off a bit of a pain at first.
First off, here's my gear oil, yes, it is indeed blacker than the blackest coffee.
Now for the drums. The pictures probably don't show it so well, but these guys, aside from being barely worn (no ridge from the shoes even), are in very rough shape and can't be reused. They're actually cracked in a few places, which is very sad indeed, because they look great otherwise. Now here's something important for fellow 5-luggers out there, DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT do the 10mm bolt trick to pop the drums off, you WILL mangle the backing plate that is behind the hub (not the backing plate for the drums, this one's directly behind the hub), I know this because I did it to my pass-side, it's not terrible but I'll have to hammer it back flat. Instead, I suggest trying to adjust the shoes way back and then going to town on the drums with a hammer, a few whacks on the face should loosen them up enough to come right off, if not, more hammering until they do, if you hammer on the lip of the drum, be careful as to not dent it and make sure to rotate the drums to keep them from getting too cockeyed.
Here's the driver-side hub and brake internals, it's pretty rusty in there and while I haven't had a chance to clean things up yet, I can easily tell that the wheel cylinder is about the only potentially salvageable item for the brakes. Everything else seems ok!
Here's the pass-side hub and brake internals, if you look carefully at the largest (and threaded) hole on the hub, you might be able to just make out the mangled backing plate I mentioned earlier. Once again, DO NOT use 10mm bolts to push the drums off, else you will cause damage in there. Same deal as with the driver-side brake, looks like just about everything in here is ready to call it quits, the shoe material is actually not attached to the shoes anymore, and extremely worn down.
Here's the setup I was using to hold the axle during the teardown, I highly reccomend NOT following my example here and to use jack stands, unfortunately my stands are up at the farm holding my truck off the ground so I figured two buckets full of hard concrete would work, boy was I wrong, half the time I had to keep my hand on the 3rd to keep the whole housing from rolling. Do the right thing, use jack stands, and maybe put a jack under the front of the 3rd to keep things level, it gets very front-heavy once the axle shafts are out and things got pretty hairy for awhile (imagine holding an axle shaft in one hand, trying to not destroy the axle seal while the housing is trying to roll forward off the stands so you're holding the 3rd at the same time, not fun).
Brake line off and in the trailer, it's not getting reused (the fittings on the backing plates actually ripped right off the lines) but I'll be keeping it in-case I have to take it to a shop to get stainless lines bent to match if I can't find ready-made ones that fit up. One must be careful removing this if they intend on reusing it, if the fittings attaching the lines to the drum backing plates are rust-welded to the line, you can pretty-much kiss it goodbye. There's a lot of tabs that are supposed to have clips on them to hold the line in place but on my axle the clips had long since rusted off. They're all held on by what appear to be 12mm bolts if yours haven't disappeared sometime within the past 20 or so years.
Here's the driver-side axle shaft. The two shafts need to be pulled out before you can take out the 3rd, make sure you are being extra careful to avoid damaging the seal on the housing and just pull the whole thing out instead of only partially so, it'll make life easier and will save you from having a leaky axle in the end. To take them out, you need to undo the four nuts that hold the backing plate onto the housing, these are usually rusted to hell and back after 20 years but an impact gun and a breaker bar will make them come off like they were torqued yesterday.
The associated seal, aside from some crud on the o-ring, it actually looks brand new!
And here's a picture of the splines on the same shaft, and they look like they're ready for another 200k km of abuse. I love macro-mode pictures, don't you?
Here's the pass-side axle shaft, unfortunately taking this guy out was my downfall, while I was pulling it out the whole housing flipped off of the concrete buckets (you'll see in the next picture why I keep stressing you use jack stands and not follow my drive-way mechanic antics, I'm lucky it didn't flip over onto my foot or something). Luckily the housing is okay because I managed to slow the fall down. The shaft itself is fine too.
And here's why we use proper tools for holding axles up and not buckets of concrete, up until the housing flipped due to being front-heavy care of the diff this guy looked brand new, now the idiot sitting in my chair needs a new axle seal.
Splines on the axle shaft, ready for more abuse!
All that was left by this point was to unbolt and drop the 3rd. After 20+ years of rust and crud, you can easily expect the nuts on the studs to be rust-welded, as well as no longer being their original size (which I believe was 12mm once upon a time) the best way to get these off is with an impact gun. Expect the studs to not enjoy being removed and expect having to replace them (probably a smart idea even if you manage to save them). My impact gun decided it didn't like the studs all that much and bent just about every one of them. I was expecting having to replace them anyways so not a big loss in my book.
Here's the 3rd, which is easily the heaviest part of the whole setup, sitting on my trailer after being pulled out of the housing. You might need to tap around it lightly with a hammer to break the gasket seal, I actually needed to get a prybar in there to get it to fully come off.
Closeup of the gears, hmmmm, they look pretty new aside from being covered in very dirty gear oil, mind you they only have about 230k km (about 140k miles) on them. This is what I was hoping to see, especially since the last time these were outside the housing was the day the factory put my truck together. Good to see nobody tampered with things. I kinda regret the re-gear and locker I'll be putting in this, I'm sure if left alone and properly maintained these gears would've easily lasted many many more miles without any trouble.
Here's where I've stopped for the night, everything's sitting back on the trailer now. Tomorrow I hope to get the rest of the brakes off the axle shafts and maybe start cleaning up the housing itself to prep it for Tremcladding (Canuckistani Rustoleum). I guess I need to get that busted-up seal off the housing and replaced too. "Hello stealership, here's my left arm and leg, can I have a new axle seal?"
I won't be reassembling the axle this weekend (and likely not for a few weeks), but when I do I'll post about it in here, I need to take the diff apart (and will detail that in here) and order some gears, a locker, spring perches (I'm converting to LOA so I need to grind off the existing perches and weld on new ones as well I will be using the 2 centre links off a 4-link suspension setup as traction bars if the guy selling them gets back to me), and get a master rebuild kit for the axle before I can put it back together. I've got to get some plate to make gussets for it too since I'm converting my truck into a pre-runner and the last thing I'll need is my axle snapping in half during a hard landing.
Enjoy fellow 2wd owners, hope this helps with your efforts!
Bonus picture! Another pair of pants bite the dust. It's a curse really, this happens every time I see a particularly hot woman walk by.
First off, here's my gear oil, yes, it is indeed blacker than the blackest coffee.
Now for the drums. The pictures probably don't show it so well, but these guys, aside from being barely worn (no ridge from the shoes even), are in very rough shape and can't be reused. They're actually cracked in a few places, which is very sad indeed, because they look great otherwise. Now here's something important for fellow 5-luggers out there, DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT do the 10mm bolt trick to pop the drums off, you WILL mangle the backing plate that is behind the hub (not the backing plate for the drums, this one's directly behind the hub), I know this because I did it to my pass-side, it's not terrible but I'll have to hammer it back flat. Instead, I suggest trying to adjust the shoes way back and then going to town on the drums with a hammer, a few whacks on the face should loosen them up enough to come right off, if not, more hammering until they do, if you hammer on the lip of the drum, be careful as to not dent it and make sure to rotate the drums to keep them from getting too cockeyed.
Here's the driver-side hub and brake internals, it's pretty rusty in there and while I haven't had a chance to clean things up yet, I can easily tell that the wheel cylinder is about the only potentially salvageable item for the brakes. Everything else seems ok!
Here's the pass-side hub and brake internals, if you look carefully at the largest (and threaded) hole on the hub, you might be able to just make out the mangled backing plate I mentioned earlier. Once again, DO NOT use 10mm bolts to push the drums off, else you will cause damage in there. Same deal as with the driver-side brake, looks like just about everything in here is ready to call it quits, the shoe material is actually not attached to the shoes anymore, and extremely worn down.
Here's the setup I was using to hold the axle during the teardown, I highly reccomend NOT following my example here and to use jack stands, unfortunately my stands are up at the farm holding my truck off the ground so I figured two buckets full of hard concrete would work, boy was I wrong, half the time I had to keep my hand on the 3rd to keep the whole housing from rolling. Do the right thing, use jack stands, and maybe put a jack under the front of the 3rd to keep things level, it gets very front-heavy once the axle shafts are out and things got pretty hairy for awhile (imagine holding an axle shaft in one hand, trying to not destroy the axle seal while the housing is trying to roll forward off the stands so you're holding the 3rd at the same time, not fun).
Brake line off and in the trailer, it's not getting reused (the fittings on the backing plates actually ripped right off the lines) but I'll be keeping it in-case I have to take it to a shop to get stainless lines bent to match if I can't find ready-made ones that fit up. One must be careful removing this if they intend on reusing it, if the fittings attaching the lines to the drum backing plates are rust-welded to the line, you can pretty-much kiss it goodbye. There's a lot of tabs that are supposed to have clips on them to hold the line in place but on my axle the clips had long since rusted off. They're all held on by what appear to be 12mm bolts if yours haven't disappeared sometime within the past 20 or so years.
Here's the driver-side axle shaft. The two shafts need to be pulled out before you can take out the 3rd, make sure you are being extra careful to avoid damaging the seal on the housing and just pull the whole thing out instead of only partially so, it'll make life easier and will save you from having a leaky axle in the end. To take them out, you need to undo the four nuts that hold the backing plate onto the housing, these are usually rusted to hell and back after 20 years but an impact gun and a breaker bar will make them come off like they were torqued yesterday.
The associated seal, aside from some crud on the o-ring, it actually looks brand new!
And here's a picture of the splines on the same shaft, and they look like they're ready for another 200k km of abuse. I love macro-mode pictures, don't you?
Here's the pass-side axle shaft, unfortunately taking this guy out was my downfall, while I was pulling it out the whole housing flipped off of the concrete buckets (you'll see in the next picture why I keep stressing you use jack stands and not follow my drive-way mechanic antics, I'm lucky it didn't flip over onto my foot or something). Luckily the housing is okay because I managed to slow the fall down. The shaft itself is fine too.
And here's why we use proper tools for holding axles up and not buckets of concrete, up until the housing flipped due to being front-heavy care of the diff this guy looked brand new, now the idiot sitting in my chair needs a new axle seal.
Splines on the axle shaft, ready for more abuse!
All that was left by this point was to unbolt and drop the 3rd. After 20+ years of rust and crud, you can easily expect the nuts on the studs to be rust-welded, as well as no longer being their original size (which I believe was 12mm once upon a time) the best way to get these off is with an impact gun. Expect the studs to not enjoy being removed and expect having to replace them (probably a smart idea even if you manage to save them). My impact gun decided it didn't like the studs all that much and bent just about every one of them. I was expecting having to replace them anyways so not a big loss in my book.
Here's the 3rd, which is easily the heaviest part of the whole setup, sitting on my trailer after being pulled out of the housing. You might need to tap around it lightly with a hammer to break the gasket seal, I actually needed to get a prybar in there to get it to fully come off.
Closeup of the gears, hmmmm, they look pretty new aside from being covered in very dirty gear oil, mind you they only have about 230k km (about 140k miles) on them. This is what I was hoping to see, especially since the last time these were outside the housing was the day the factory put my truck together. Good to see nobody tampered with things. I kinda regret the re-gear and locker I'll be putting in this, I'm sure if left alone and properly maintained these gears would've easily lasted many many more miles without any trouble.
Here's where I've stopped for the night, everything's sitting back on the trailer now. Tomorrow I hope to get the rest of the brakes off the axle shafts and maybe start cleaning up the housing itself to prep it for Tremcladding (Canuckistani Rustoleum). I guess I need to get that busted-up seal off the housing and replaced too. "Hello stealership, here's my left arm and leg, can I have a new axle seal?"
I won't be reassembling the axle this weekend (and likely not for a few weeks), but when I do I'll post about it in here, I need to take the diff apart (and will detail that in here) and order some gears, a locker, spring perches (I'm converting to LOA so I need to grind off the existing perches and weld on new ones as well I will be using the 2 centre links off a 4-link suspension setup as traction bars if the guy selling them gets back to me), and get a master rebuild kit for the axle before I can put it back together. I've got to get some plate to make gussets for it too since I'm converting my truck into a pre-runner and the last thing I'll need is my axle snapping in half during a hard landing.
Enjoy fellow 2wd owners, hope this helps with your efforts!
Bonus picture! Another pair of pants bite the dust. It's a curse really, this happens every time I see a particularly hot woman walk by.
Last edited by Magnusian; 04-10-2010 at 07:17 PM.
04-11-2010, 11:14 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Downtown Heckronto, Ontario, Soviet Canuckistan
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Awwww, here I was thinking at least a few people would be all over this thread. Oh well, when I'm done it can benefit people who use search! This post is now a placeholder (and shameless bump) for today's work, I'm hoping to get the rest of the drum brakes off of the axle shafts today but I doubt I'll be able to get much too much further than getting everything except the backing plates off, but who knows, I have some big c-clamps I might be able to get them off today.
e: Just checked the FSM, it looks like they leave all the brake hardware on and just press the shaft out that way, I'm gonna try that since I gotta replace the brakes anyways. In other news I found my adjusters, or what was left of them a few minutes ago, bad bad stuff. I'm surprised I even had working rear brakes before I took this all apart!
another edit: This is strange, my rear wheel bearings look brand new, I'm starting to think someone's probably replaced the bearings and seals at some point in time, but the PO never told me about that. Why would the bearings get replaced but everything else get left in such poor condition. Gotta run out for some snap-ring pliers, and to see if I can bribe a friend with a press to help me get stuff apart.
e: Just checked the FSM, it looks like they leave all the brake hardware on and just press the shaft out that way, I'm gonna try that since I gotta replace the brakes anyways. In other news I found my adjusters, or what was left of them a few minutes ago, bad bad stuff. I'm surprised I even had working rear brakes before I took this all apart!
another edit: This is strange, my rear wheel bearings look brand new, I'm starting to think someone's probably replaced the bearings and seals at some point in time, but the PO never told me about that. Why would the bearings get replaced but everything else get left in such poor condition. Gotta run out for some snap-ring pliers, and to see if I can bribe a friend with a press to help me get stuff apart.
Last edited by Magnusian; 04-11-2010 at 11:30 AM.
04-11-2010, 05:38 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Downtown Heckronto, Ontario, Soviet Canuckistan
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Hmmm, didn't get what I wanted to done today, need to find a press or make a poor-man's press rig for my hi-lift knockoff jack but when I do get to that point I'll fill in the placeholder post with the details.
Gonna see if I can order up all the brake components sometime this week, things are in such dire shape that I'm just going to replace them entirely.
For now, I guess I need to research (by using search!) how to take the 3rd apart so I can clean it up and get it nice and ready for the regear and locker. I'm probably going with a lock-right locker but I still haven't decided which gear ratio to go with for running 31s. It's hard when you have a 4spd transmission and need to be able to maintain highway speeds (4th with 31s and 4.10s says about 68mph at 3k according to the grimjeeper calculator) especially since with the 3.071s and stock 25s I can apparently hit 90mph in 4th at the redline (I have no desire to test this). I also need to take into consideration the heavy stuff my truck may end up having to tow, the hay baler is not very light (it's at least a ton and a half empty) so I'd like to maximize torque without blowing up my axle shafts in the inevitable event of having to tow it. Any suggestions here guys? I also might be coming into ownership of a W58 5spd out of a supra that will eventually find it's way onto my truck (probably when I rebuild the engine) and am wondering if I should do the regear with that in mind and deal with any potential gimping with my 4spd until I drop it in (the gearing is different between the two, the W58 is essentially a modified W55 with a different input ratio and therefore slightly higher ratios). So many things to take into account, sheesh!
peow, the only pain it's been so far has been the removal of a few chunks of flesh off my hands when the housing flipped, it's actually going a heck of a lot easier than I was expecting.
Gonna see if I can order up all the brake components sometime this week, things are in such dire shape that I'm just going to replace them entirely.
For now, I guess I need to research (by using search!) how to take the 3rd apart so I can clean it up and get it nice and ready for the regear and locker. I'm probably going with a lock-right locker but I still haven't decided which gear ratio to go with for running 31s. It's hard when you have a 4spd transmission and need to be able to maintain highway speeds (4th with 31s and 4.10s says about 68mph at 3k according to the grimjeeper calculator) especially since with the 3.071s and stock 25s I can apparently hit 90mph in 4th at the redline (I have no desire to test this). I also need to take into consideration the heavy stuff my truck may end up having to tow, the hay baler is not very light (it's at least a ton and a half empty) so I'd like to maximize torque without blowing up my axle shafts in the inevitable event of having to tow it. Any suggestions here guys? I also might be coming into ownership of a W58 5spd out of a supra that will eventually find it's way onto my truck (probably when I rebuild the engine) and am wondering if I should do the regear with that in mind and deal with any potential gimping with my 4spd until I drop it in (the gearing is different between the two, the W58 is essentially a modified W55 with a different input ratio and therefore slightly higher ratios). So many things to take into account, sheesh!
peow, the only pain it's been so far has been the removal of a few chunks of flesh off my hands when the housing flipped, it's actually going a heck of a lot easier than I was expecting.
Last edited by Magnusian; 04-11-2010 at 05:40 PM.
04-11-2010, 05:45 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I will be doing the same thing, probably in fall to put in a locker and 4.56 gears before winter. My plan was to sand blast the entire exterior and paint with zinc rich primer and then a 2 part epoxy (marine type) paint. Should be the last time I see rust on the outside.... Then turn attention to the inside and re-install it with new springs, bushings and shackles at the same time. Does anyone have recommendations regarding rear axle ratios for the light 2wd trucks ? I have a 93 5 speed and I believe it has something like a 3.5 ratio which is far to high for anything but flat country. I will be moving to Colorado in a few years and the base of the valley is at 7500ft and the passes go to over 10k ft. So I am pretty sure I will need a higher ratio, since the 22RE only makes about 70hp at elevation...
Trending Topics
04-11-2010, 05:55 PM
#8
Registered User
Well, when i changed my 3rd... I dropped the 3rd onto my stomach..
Then the axle hub scraped the crap out of my arm when i was pulling it out.
04-13-2010, 07:17 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Downtown Heckronto, Ontario, Soviet Canuckistan
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
How the heck did you manage to drop it on your stomach? I stood over the axle and pulled the 3rd up and off by the flange (probably not the smartest way, but if the seal's already schmucked...).
Heh, someone tried to steal my 3rd today while I was at work, it'd been moved to the other end of the trailer and I guess they decided against it when they saw the 4 security cameras on the front of the house or when they saw the sorry state it was in. I actually don't care if it gets stolen, so long as they leave the axle shafts and housing (I just want to keep it 5-lug, the rest I'll only care about when I've fixed it, and who'd want to steal something that would cost them several hundred bucks to fix anyways? not like it's scrap value is very high). I think tomorrow I'll move it all inside the garage though, most of the gear oil that was still in the housing has either leaked out or should have been soaked up by the towel I have stuffed in it to keep the water out atm so it shouldn't stain the concrete if I sit it on some old cardboard.
E: I checked the video from the cameras it was some teenager who didn't even have a vehicle (what was he gonna do, carry it home on foot?), didn't get a good shot of his face but if I ever see the little prick he's not gonna enjoy the "talking to" I'm gonna give him.
Heh, someone tried to steal my 3rd today while I was at work, it'd been moved to the other end of the trailer and I guess they decided against it when they saw the 4 security cameras on the front of the house or when they saw the sorry state it was in. I actually don't care if it gets stolen, so long as they leave the axle shafts and housing (I just want to keep it 5-lug, the rest I'll only care about when I've fixed it, and who'd want to steal something that would cost them several hundred bucks to fix anyways? not like it's scrap value is very high). I think tomorrow I'll move it all inside the garage though, most of the gear oil that was still in the housing has either leaked out or should have been soaked up by the towel I have stuffed in it to keep the water out atm so it shouldn't stain the concrete if I sit it on some old cardboard.
E: I checked the video from the cameras it was some teenager who didn't even have a vehicle (what was he gonna do, carry it home on foot?), didn't get a good shot of his face but if I ever see the little prick he's not gonna enjoy the "talking to" I'm gonna give him.
Last edited by Magnusian; 04-13-2010 at 07:27 PM.
04-15-2010, 02:08 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Downtown Heckronto, Ontario, Soviet Canuckistan
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Argh, I should have done that when it happened, it's been recorded over at least a few times now. I didn't save it because I didn't feel like reporting it to the cops, which I probably should have. If he tries again I will.
04-15-2010, 07:13 PM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Downtown Heckronto, Ontario, Soviet Canuckistan
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Maybe he didn't take it because he saw it had 3.071 gearing. 
It did look like he was considering taking it, but he ended up leaving it and just walking away.
So anyways, on Saturday I'm gonna be heading over to the local aftermarket store, Overdrive Automotive to pick up some of the brake parts I need. Having trouble finding adjusters that aren't either super expensive (Why cant TPZ ship to Canada?
) or rusted solid like mine. They even sell lockright lockers, so score on that front, it'll be nice not to have to pay for outrageous shipping on one.
It did look like he was considering taking it, but he ended up leaving it and just walking away.
So anyways, on Saturday I'm gonna be heading over to the local aftermarket store, Overdrive Automotive to pick up some of the brake parts I need. Having trouble finding adjusters that aren't either super expensive (Why cant TPZ ship to Canada?
) or rusted solid like mine. They even sell lockright lockers, so score on that front, it'll be nice not to have to pay for outrageous shipping on one.
Last edited by Magnusian; 04-15-2010 at 07:23 PM.
04-15-2010, 07:18 PM
#15
Registered User
04-16-2010, 05:09 PM
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Downtown Heckronto, Ontario, Soviet Canuckistan
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Holy freakin' crap, what the hell is the neighborhood I'm living in coming to!? Two guys in a dark blue pt cruiser tried to steal one of my folks' cars today right in front of my mother! If I can figure out how to rip the video off the recorder I'll definitely be posting it, maybe they're related to the kid who tried to steal my 3rd. If I manage to rip the vid and post it and anyone else here who lives in KW recognizes the vehicle, please let me know.
That's it, as soon as I find a place in Toronto with cheap rent I'm leaving this city, it's worse here in Kitchener than when I used to live in Allentown, PA!
I'll be really peeved if someone breaks in while I'm out buying parts tomorrow, but it's the only time I can make it to the store. May the gods of Toyota rebuilds watch over my house while I'm getting parts.
That's it, as soon as I find a place in Toronto with cheap rent I'm leaving this city, it's worse here in Kitchener than when I used to live in Allentown, PA!
I'll be really peeved if someone breaks in while I'm out buying parts tomorrow, but it's the only time I can make it to the store. May the gods of Toyota rebuilds watch over my house while I'm getting parts.
Last edited by Magnusian; 04-16-2010 at 05:49 PM.
04-25-2010, 07:54 PM
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Downtown Heckronto, Ontario, Soviet Canuckistan
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Okay, it's been awhile, but time for some updates that don't involve people trying to steal from me.
Mmmmmmm, updates...
So, I haven't really done much for the past two weeks aside from trying a few different methods of cleaning off the housing (using a wire brush drill attachment doesn't seem to work so well). I don't trust myself enough with a grinder to not damage the axle housing so the less grinding on it I have to do the better. Anyone got some tips for that?
Anyways, earlier in the week I got my brake order from Mike over at Overdrive Automotive here in Kitchener (great place, even for people who just don't want to pay dealership prices for a lot of "stock" items, many of which are OEM, but some of which are not), but there was a problem, see if you can spot it.
They're actually 1-ton chassis drums too (according to Mike), they're almost an inch taller than the 1/2ton drums they're sitting beside and a fair amount heavier, not to mention they're 6-lug! Oh well, to make up for this (and for his supplier goofing on it a second time), Mike said he'll personally deliver the proper drums to my home on Tuesday after he closes. If that ain't customer service, I don't know what is.
Here's the rest of the order, everything appears to be right, the wheel cylinders are both the right size and whatnot, but they oddly don't match. They're both remanned by Raybestos, so I'm going to assume they're okay (gotta be better than the ones I already have anyways).
Shoes! These are the right ones (I believe the 4wd and 2wd trucks use the same shoes, but these ones do match the ones I already have), which is what makes the drum screwup all the more confusing.
And finally, after two weeks of telling my dad "the sawzall blades are in my toolbox!" he manged to find them, in my toolbox.
So, he took the other leaf off my truck and brought 'em home (along with with the tail light housings I'm trying to pass off on leebee). How's the arch looking on these guys? I'll be taking them over to Kitchener Spring sometime this week to get them the once-over.
This is the leaf (with part of a bolt and the bushing still attached!) in question. Got a little carried away with the grinder the first time I tried to get it off.
And the other side, where I got a little less carried away.
All in all, I haven't been real productive with this, it's crunch time at work and the weather's been bad (I know, I know, excuses aren't going to rebuild my axle). I should have a fair amount of time soon, and once I've collected all the parts I'll be able to put this sucker back together. I am however, having a terrible time finding replacement backing plates, toyotapartszone has them for sale, but they won't ship to Soviet Canuckistan and I don't have a way to go to Niagra Falls, NY and pick them up from a UPS store or the like there. If any of you guys know of a way or place I can get them (I do believe they are different from the 4wd backing plates by virtue of where the parking brake cable enters into the brake), please let me know, the OEM part numbers are 47043 and 47044 for the RH and LH plates. I'd rather not have to go through the stealership to get them, because I just know they'll want a few organs and limbs for 'em.
I have also come to a decision on gearing, taking into account both what I want to do with this truck and the W58 she'll eventually be getting. Going to go with 4.10s, things will be slow for a little while with the 4spd, but once I get the W58 and put it in I should be able to maintain highway speeds while rolling 31s without hitting the redline. I'll have to ride up hills in 4th with the 4.10s, but such is the price of wanting a little kick I suppose. Also got quoted a great price for a Lockright that I just can't refuse, so once I get it and the gears I can start in on the 3rd.
Mmmmmmm, updates...
So, I haven't really done much for the past two weeks aside from trying a few different methods of cleaning off the housing (using a wire brush drill attachment doesn't seem to work so well). I don't trust myself enough with a grinder to not damage the axle housing so the less grinding on it I have to do the better. Anyone got some tips for that?
Anyways, earlier in the week I got my brake order from Mike over at Overdrive Automotive here in Kitchener (great place, even for people who just don't want to pay dealership prices for a lot of "stock" items, many of which are OEM, but some of which are not), but there was a problem, see if you can spot it.
They're actually 1-ton chassis drums too (according to Mike), they're almost an inch taller than the 1/2ton drums they're sitting beside and a fair amount heavier, not to mention they're 6-lug! Oh well, to make up for this (and for his supplier goofing on it a second time), Mike said he'll personally deliver the proper drums to my home on Tuesday after he closes. If that ain't customer service, I don't know what is.
Here's the rest of the order, everything appears to be right, the wheel cylinders are both the right size and whatnot, but they oddly don't match. They're both remanned by Raybestos, so I'm going to assume they're okay (gotta be better than the ones I already have anyways).
Shoes! These are the right ones (I believe the 4wd and 2wd trucks use the same shoes, but these ones do match the ones I already have), which is what makes the drum screwup all the more confusing.
And finally, after two weeks of telling my dad "the sawzall blades are in my toolbox!" he manged to find them, in my toolbox.
So, he took the other leaf off my truck and brought 'em home (along with with the tail light housings I'm trying to pass off on leebee). How's the arch looking on these guys? I'll be taking them over to Kitchener Spring sometime this week to get them the once-over.
This is the leaf (with part of a bolt and the bushing still attached!) in question. Got a little carried away with the grinder the first time I tried to get it off.
And the other side, where I got a little less carried away.
All in all, I haven't been real productive with this, it's crunch time at work and the weather's been bad (I know, I know, excuses aren't going to rebuild my axle). I should have a fair amount of time soon, and once I've collected all the parts I'll be able to put this sucker back together. I am however, having a terrible time finding replacement backing plates, toyotapartszone has them for sale, but they won't ship to Soviet Canuckistan and I don't have a way to go to Niagra Falls, NY and pick them up from a UPS store or the like there. If any of you guys know of a way or place I can get them (I do believe they are different from the 4wd backing plates by virtue of where the parking brake cable enters into the brake), please let me know, the OEM part numbers are 47043 and 47044 for the RH and LH plates. I'd rather not have to go through the stealership to get them, because I just know they'll want a few organs and limbs for 'em.
I have also come to a decision on gearing, taking into account both what I want to do with this truck and the W58 she'll eventually be getting. Going to go with 4.10s, things will be slow for a little while with the 4spd, but once I get the W58 and put it in I should be able to maintain highway speeds while rolling 31s without hitting the redline. I'll have to ride up hills in 4th with the 4.10s, but such is the price of wanting a little kick I suppose. Also got quoted a great price for a Lockright that I just can't refuse, so once I get it and the gears I can start in on the 3rd.
Last edited by Magnusian; 04-25-2010 at 08:09 PM.
04-25-2010, 08:46 PM
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Downtown Heckronto, Ontario, Soviet Canuckistan
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I'm just worried about using one and grinding too hard into one of the many folds in the rear diff "cover." Which has a very clear "N1" stamping on it, some of the metal doesn't even show a sign of rust. For a 22 year old Canadian truck axle, I'm actually surprised that the housing is in such great shape. It's amazing the difference that even an axle exposed to snow all the time shows rust-wise when salt is not part of the picture.
Funny how this all came about from a parking brake cable replacement. You guys have somehow infected me with the desire to do things to the truck I bought just to bomb around on my farm (and finally have a vehicle of my own) that I originally didn't know about. I got it because I'd known a little bit about 'yotas from the one my dad used to have. Now here I am, with dreams of putting a new transmission in, regearing and locking the axle... and... flying.
Funny how this all came about from a parking brake cable replacement. You guys have somehow infected me with the desire to do things to the truck I bought just to bomb around on my farm (and finally have a vehicle of my own) that I originally didn't know about. I got it because I'd known a little bit about 'yotas from the one my dad used to have. Now here I am, with dreams of putting a new transmission in, regearing and locking the axle... and... flying.
Last edited by Magnusian; 04-25-2010 at 08:52 PM.
