ahandyguy

Hi, I am new here, glad I found you.
Dumb-ss here left the ignition on overnight. Next morning truck would not start.
Checked all fuses, bought a used ignition control module and coil, did not solve problem. This truck has always started and been a great runner.
What did I fry? Ignition turns over like always, but will not fire.
Where do i go from here? Help oh great yota wizards.

ahandyguy

Update on my problem.
NO check engine light
Checked all fuses under hood and main. All OK
Pulled ecu out, no fried wires. Pulled dist. cap off, rotor spins
checked all grounds, appear to be OK
replaced coil and ign. module, no change
unhooked neg battery terminal, checked all connections
Please help me out guys, I am at a loss.

All this started when somebody moved my truck and left the ignition ON for at least 12 hours or more. Next day went to start, turns over, no spark.

iamsuperbleeder

Well, I'll only assume that is is in fact turning over and the battery is not completely dead...

Are you 100% sure it's a spark issue? Start with the basics first; spark or fuel?



If it is indeed no spark, track it down from the coil forward; at least that's how I'd try to diagnos it since you already changed out the ignition modue and coil itself.

If there's no spark from the coil output, are you getting the 12v power to the coil?

If so, are the wires fine?

How bout the cap, mainly the button on the inside of it; not the rotor that spins, the button in the center of the underside of the cap that sends the spark from the coil wire to the individual spark plug wires.



If all is well there, then it's a feul issue, wich takes a different approach, but I'd start with spark first.


Welcome to YT by the way!

ahandyguy

Thank you for your response. I have been getting weary of staring into the open hood and wondering where is the problem. As for the battery, it has plenty of power and turns the engine over fine. I just can't believe that leaving the ignition on does not have some kind of safety feature to prevent major damage. I was hoping fuse, but no luck. I will try your suggestions and follow up with you. Now I am wondering ECU and why don't I have a check engine indicator.
Thank you for the welcome, this could be my new favorite place.

scuba

as for a CEL, have you actually tried the paperclip trick??

4crawlers page will help you a bunch, thats how you can pull the codes
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector
then search here or google for the actual code you get

ahandyguy

Pulled a plug, turned it over, I have no spark from a spark plug and I have no power at the coil. So now I need to determine where my break is to the coil correct? All is not lost the battery has power. I know i fried something I just do not know what. Man I could build a house but when it comes to this stuff I am at a loss. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

ahandyguy

yes i tried the high tech clip trick at the plug on the side wall. I saw that from another post, but I got nothing. yep the link you sent is the one I used. The plug circled in blue is like mine.
Iamsuperbleeder, I pulled the cap, could not locate the button you referred to.
As I can tell so far, no power to coil.

ahandyguy

Sunday SUNDAY - Looked for "button" in the dist. even took out the guts, no button. tested power ign/coil nothing. Pulled off the inside fuse panel and even changed fuses, nothing burnt inside of that. Battery rests fine, gounds (all that I could find have been pulled off brass brushed and put back.
Still no CEL. I get all lights on dash BUT CEL. I am thinking ECU. But here is a twist on that. I have a 22re the tag on the ecu says 22r. Does that make any difference? If I replace the ecu, is their additional recoding I need to do or does it reset itself? I have that funny feeling that says i would replace the ecu and still no luck. I know this has to be something really simple and it is driving me crazy. Ignition left on, what fried?

Jeenyus04

nothing should have fried with the ignition left on, your batt should be dead, thats all, do us all a favor and replace that then keep going.

iamsuperbleeder

I woudln't sweat the button I was reffering to if the coil is not getting energised

it's under the cap BTW, not the distributer itself



as far as the ECU, I honestly have no idea; haven't had a reason to rip mine out yet to look at it and see if it has 22r or 22re on it...

annoyingrob

try disconnecting the battery for an hour to let the ECU reset itself. Not that I think it will make any difference, it's worth a shot.

ahandyguy

The commaraderie (however you spell it) here is amazing.
Inside the cap, man i was looking all over inside the distributor.
OK that is next. Then the suggestion of disconnecting the battery for an hour, why not. I did disconnect for a short period of time, but i like the hour idea. If the car computer is anything like my computer some times it takes a while to reboot. Excellent point.
I thank you all so much in your input to my yota woes. I will get this going.
Jeeny, the battery has lots of juice, truck cranks over no problem, just do not get any spark.
Would you still suggest changing battery when it is fully charged and cranking?

joesscamaro

No, you don't need to change out batteries if the one you have is still good and has plenty of cranking power to it.

ontario4runner

have you considered crank position sensor?

abecedarian

well....
leaving the key in the 'run' position without the engine running does a couple of things- it charges the coil windings and puts all that current draw through the ignitor (whose job is to make and break the coil connections like points do on old distributors).

likely you either burned the coil up or fried the ignitor. and considering you say you have no power to the coil... that implies the ignitor

*edit- and even chilton's tells you to not leave the key 'on' without the engine running for more than 10 minutes or ignitor damage is likely.

ahandyguy

New information. I was able to put a jumper directly from the battery to the coil and it fired right up. So now does that mean that the power going to the ICM is the culprit? I isolated those wires down and can trace them all the way back to the main harness. At which point I am stuck again. We also discovered that possibly, my fusible link was cut out and went directly to the battery. I am assuming that a large white wire coming from the engine compartment fuse box and goes to the battery is the Fusible link wire?

mnmontana

Try physically removing the 15 amp EFI fuse, and look at it, dont just check for continuity on it

just a 22re

you might waana try repalceing the coil and or igintor i would start there first man

and if all else and there fine then i would check out the efi relay on the driverside kick panel

ahandyguy

inside the fuse box under the hood is one black fuse which will not pull out as easily as the other ones. It looks like it is connected to the white wire which comes out of the fuse box and goes directly to the battery. The fuse does not appear to be blown. My thought is could the connections under that fuse be fried without blowing the fuse?
As for the EFI since I ran a jumper to the coil and it fired right up, wouldn't that mean that my efi, coil and ignition module are OK?
Thank you to all who are hanging with me on this. We will prevail!