TeeCee

Hey guys,
I got a problem. I'll give you a background then I'll explain the 2 issues.

Last month I bought a 1986 Toyota 4x4 SR5 with a 22-REC, it was sitting in a guys driveway for 7 years. I brought it home and cleaned the gas tank out, blew the fuel lines clean, replaced the fuel pump with strainer and replaced the fuel filter. I also did an oil change and put 2 gallons of gas in it. I started it after a few minutes of cranking and priming, it ran fine and I drove it about 3 miles until it bogged out like it ran out of fuel, luckily I pulled into a gas station. I put a few gallons of Arco 87 octane just to get me to a Chevron. I drove less than a mile then it bogged out again. I towed it home, checked the gap and cleaned the spark plugs and cleaned the fuel injectors and intake, they were gunked up a bit. The truck does have fuel in it and I pulled the fuel rail away from the intake and fuel is sparying from all 4 injectors in a nice pattern. I checked spark with a screwdriver and disconnected spark plug wire, the spark is there.

Here's the 2 issues I'm facing:

1) I'm missing a vacuum house and the nipple it plugs into is broken, I am posting 2 pics, the first pic shows the location and the second pic shows which nipple is broken. I dont know where this hose goes to. If anyone wants to explain it to me like I've never picked up a wrench because I've looked at many diagrams, even the one under the hood, and can't figure it out.

2) The truck starts only after pumping it and holding the pedal floored and the idle is very rough, it dies out and will not stay started for more than a few seconds unless I'm coaxing it by messing with the throttle. I cleaned out the EGR valve, was a little gunked up, also cleaned up the fuel pressure regulator. I can't figure out how to check the fuel pressure, that's one part. I checked out some threads and a few of them pointed to a bad distributor pick up coil, I posted a pic, can someone please tell me if I did it right, it is my first time checking a pick up coil and I've never used a multimeter either. If I did it right, then the pick up coil is fine and I'm stumped....I can't get my truck to run.......It's my first Toyota and I waited for years to find the right one, I really like this truck and I want to get it running right.

Help Me Toyota Gurus....

yotamikey

I am pretty new to the site, I am sure there are many more knowledgeable ppl here on the site.. but I just had the same issues with my truck.. (89)
Try adjusting ur valves.. I went thru all the same stuff u did..
Check your compression first.. if they all check good that may not be ur problem.. but it is worth adjusting those suckers up.. it made my truck run perfect!!!

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Looking at the 1988 FSM, since it's the closest I have to an 86..

You have two VSV's(vacuume switch valves) on the top of your valve cover. This connection you're looking at on the back of the intake is an auxilary vac port and provides the vacuume for those two VSV. FSM page ec-3 shows a visual of the layout/routing.

The forward most switch controls/goes to the "AS reed valve" located at the rear under the intake(FSM page ec-19). It should have a check valve in between the aux port and the VSV, this line connects to the rear most port of the VSV.

The rear switch controls the fuel pressure regulator. FSM page Fi-53 shows it's location, behind and below the EGR system on the back of the fuel rail. It's the shiney bit directly below the arrow in the first picture. There should be a line coming off the top of the regulator that attaches to the rear port of the rear VSV.

You need to replace the auxilary vac port. Take it off the intake in the parking lot take it to the parts counter, tell them "it is part of the vacuum system", and they should be able to find it.

Or you can hack/rig around it. Insert a screw into the broken port, remove the cover from the 3rd port and attach a line to the forward port of the rear VSV on the valve cover and a new vacuum line between the rear port of the rear switch to the top of the fuel pressure regulator.

If there is no rear VSV on the valve you'll need to source one of those also, keyphrase is "Vacuum switch valve(VSV) for the fuel pressure regulator", and they should be able to find you one.

If the local parts store can't help you the dealership can, if they can't you're off to the junk yard

... Question #2
OMG OMG don't cut into your wires! If those holes were already there thats part of your problem, if you did it it's still going to need repaired.

You need a tiny screw driver, "ice" pick, or safety pin, and some heat shrink tubing, plasti-dip, or (ug) electrical tape. To get heat shrink on there you'll need to release the locking tabs in the round connector that hold the metal connecting bits in. Clean the wires really well without using water. heat shrink, spray or (ug) tape over the holes, and reassemble the connectors into the plug plastic.

Now do the test again without the round plastic connector hooked to the rest of the system, by inserting your meter probes into the plug.


Not really sure Why the FSM shows the probes jammed into the back of the plug there since it also shows the plug disconnected, maybe a male spade I guess. You need to pull the rear section off the round plug to do that..

TeeCee

Thanks Mikey, I will check the compression tomorrow ( hopefully, if I can rent a compression tester from autozone) and update

TeeCee

Thanks Co_94_PU,
1) I didn't cut the wires, I just stripped a bit off the plastic off, but I repaired open spots in the wires immediately after the test.
2) I put a screw into that broken port and connected the front vsv line to it, but now I have an open vacuum port where the front vsv was attached, I capped it off using the cap I removed from the aux port, does anything go there or can I leave it capped?
3) Any ideas on why I cant get it to run?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

I'll have to look that up too

But while I do.. How about an overview of the engine bay. I'm kind of interested in the valve cover area with vsv's, and the vac line map on the hood.

Add some light to the pictures, even if you have to snag a table lamp from somewhere they are very grainy and more light usualy fixes that.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Couldn't find it in the manual I had to resort to google and I turned up picture for an 1984..

..

..

it shows the line going out the top to a VSV(?), and back to the bottom of that device.

So uhm yeah put that line back where it was, and I'll take another swing at it once I get to see the hood map

I did find out that hole you pulled the cap off of is there to test the EGR, thats handy I guess. Sure beats applying a vacuum to it via the lip test.

junkpile

Sounds to me like you had some gunk in the tank and plugged up the fuel filter. Id change it and see what happens... cheap and easy to try. Good luck!

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

He did that already, wouldn't hurt much to do it again. BUT before you do drain the tank, give it another good cleaning, treat the rust, and apply a new liquid liner type product.

You could of course go hardcore on it and replace the poorly(IMO) placed tank with one that fits where the spare tire carrier is. There should be some posts floating around here with which ones fit back there. This does of course require some bracket fabrication, new filler hose, and custom fuel supply and return lines. But it beats the other alternative of putting on enough body weight to offset a full load of fuel.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

P.S. That part I couldn't locate, I'm pretty sure is the idle up system for the power steering.

And that question I overlooked about the pressure test. Pick up a loaner guage from the local parts store, and 2 new sets of crush washers (One for the test and one for when you reattach the injector). Then just follow the manual, it's detailed enough probably to get you started. If you have specific questions about it just ask.

TeeCee

Hey Co_94_PU,
Here are the pics you asked for, an overview of the engine bay and the VSV locations.... The auto parts stores around here want $150 deposit to rent the fuel pressure tester, so that gonna have to wait a few days.

TeeCee

Hey JunkPile,
I'm just gonna try replacing the fuel filter again today and see what happens.
I'll update after I do it

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Still missing the vacuum routing map, It's probably in the upper right hand corner of the under side of the hood when it's open. Might be buried in gunk..

The 88 fsm doesn't have 22R-e cali vacuum map, only for a 22r.
Got my mspaint out... This should be a little easier to follow.
Color coded 22re emissions vacuum system diagram attached at the bottom

The closest I could find on autozone's site was (I think) an 1984 22-re(cali)

TeeCee

Hey Co_94_PU,
It took alot of elbow grease but I finally cleaned up the vac diagram and emission info enough to be read

TeeCee

I decided in order to avoid the future gunking of the filter possibility, that I would just replace the gas tank and the fuel filter tomorrow. I got a brand new tank, picking it up in the morning.

TeeCee

Okay guys, here's an update, I'm still confused.

As per YotaMikeys advice, I checked the compression :
Cylinder 1 = 150 psi
Cylinder 2 = 135 psi
Cylinder 3 = 160 psi
Cylinder 4 = 140 psi

Didn't replace the tank, the tank I was supposed to pick up was the wrong one for my truck, so that'll have to wait. I don't think the tank is all so bad.

I checked the fuel pressure, after the pressure regulator and before the cold start injector, like it says in the book.
Fuel Pressure = 42 psi - Book says 33-38 psi
(Is that extra pressure a possibility for the no start issue? I highly doubt it but maybe it's flooding it.)

After checking the fuel pressure I squirted some of the gas from the open fuel line into a clear bottle, for inspection. The fuel was brownish, definitely not thick or gunky, just discolored. I poured some of the dirty gas on the ground and lit it up, so it's not so dirty as to not ignite.

I tested the coil and it came in with the following:
Primary Resistance = 1.2 Ohms - Book says = 0.5-0.7 Ohms
(should the extra Ohms concern me)
Secondary Resistance = 13.08 Ohms - Book says = 11.4-15.6 Ohms
Insulation Resistance = Infinity - Book Says = Infinity


In a bit, I'm just gonna run a hose to the throttle body and run the dirty gas I have left into the hose and see if it starts....if it starts than it has a fuel delivery issue, if it doesn't than it has a starting system issue.

So, 2 of my concerns are listed above. If anybody can answer those questions I would appreciate it.

TeeCee

Ok guys, I sprayed some fuel into the throttle body and kept spraying until the idle actually sounded better ( not good. better),than I stopped spraying and it stayed started on its own power. It idled rough, sputtering still like it was off time or not getting fuel, but the engine remained started.
The check engine light came on and gave me a code of 12....thank goodness, something to start checking. With what research I've done it would seem that there is a problem with the signal from the distributor the the computer, I'm thinking it may be the Ignition Control Module, Does anyone know how to test it?
I searched through the factory service manual and haven't found any info.

So to recap.

Question 1) Does anyone know how to test the Ignition Control Module?
Question 2) Anyone got any other ideas?

Anybody?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

2 and 4 are below the limit (142psi), 2 is also past the difference limit of 14. Was that with or without adding oil to wet the rings?

Properly treating what you have will make it good as new, no need for another one that might need treated also. Search for "fuel tank liner", something like Por or Red-Kote, will only set you back 30-50$

Was that with the pressure regulator disabled?
Did the systemstay pressurized, per the specs? Greater than 21psi five minutes after you shut off the pump?
Yep thats not good, 15%+ over pressure std of 35 = lots more fuel.
You could do the injector test. Book says 40-50 cc in 15 seconds.

That is your rust, and it's not good. Check you local pump for the alcohol mix ratio, it's pretty high in colorado, probably not as bad out there. It sucks up water from the air, in the tanker, in the ground and in your tank. And obviously water is bad for metal tanks and lines.

Basicly you don't really want to be running it thru your engine. It'll wear the injectors and deposit crap in the cylinders. Wether its varnish or rust it's bad stuff.

Yeah thats out of spec. make sure your ternimals are fresh cleaned and double check it. If it's not to spec it needs replaced. You won't have adequate spark.

code12 is the "signal generator pickup" or NE sensor, so you can find it in the manual. It's covered under the ignition section. If it tests good, while you're in there check and set the air gap if needed.

There is a handy little trouble shooting flow chart at the begining of the EFI section.

You know it will run if you keep feeding it fuel, which puts you at testing the AFM fuel switch. (hard to start section) Not a bad idea to start at the top of that in any case. You have issues in 1, 2(You fixed atleast one leak already), and 3 of it

TeeCee

1) The compression check was done without adding oil to the rings.

2) The fuel pressure regulator was connected in order to make sure that it was working properly and I never checked to see if pressure was maintained after pump shutoff

3) I will clean the coil contacts and update

4) I checked the signal generator and it tested good, in my OP it shows a picture of the reading at 159.5 but I didn't check the air gap, I'll buy a feeler gauge tomorrow and check it.

5) I should have phrased this better, my fault, but I'll edit my post to reflect what I should have typed. I don't have to keep feeding it gas, after a minute or two of feeding it the fuel, the truck kept idle on its own power, just not a good idle.

TeeCee

I just cleaned up the coil contacts, unplugged all connectors to the coil except the igniter leads and re-tested, here is the pic with the results. could this be my whole issue?