'86 22RE... Busted timing chain. What to do about valves?
08-12-2017, 01:20 PM
#1
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'86 22RE... Busted timing chain. What to do about valves?
Little brother in law just got his first pickup - an '86 4x4 with the automatic and the 22RE. Paid $600 for it just a few weeks ago. Other day, it died and wouldn't start. Long story short, I pulled the valve cover and the timing chain is busted. I understand that this is an interference engine, so more than likely, we have a few bent valves. I'm fairly competent with a wrench, and I used to have a 22R '84 pickup that I did pretty extensive engine work on, but I'm not sure how to proceed. (took the head to a machine shop, so I have very little experience with the top end of things.) Besides putting a new timing kit on (obviously with the new metal guides) I think I could either:
Also, what all would you all replace while while this far in? Water pump, head gasket, intake and exhaust gaskets, (and all other gaskets) obviously. Front main seal (needs replaced anyway). How about oil pump? Do these need replaced periodically? How about distributor components, spark plugs, and wires?
Also, my 22R was a carburated engine. Don't have much experience working on the EFI version -- any special precautions I need to take?
- Pull off the head and take it to a machine shop to have them repair it -- changing valves as needed, etc.
- Try to do the valve job myself -- I don't have experience with this. Any idea how difficult it is?
- Purchase a new head with valves in, or
- Leave the head on and hope the valves aren't bent too badly. (we're not actually going to do this)
- Something else? I'm open to suggestions!
Also, what all would you all replace while while this far in? Water pump, head gasket, intake and exhaust gaskets, (and all other gaskets) obviously. Front main seal (needs replaced anyway). How about oil pump? Do these need replaced periodically? How about distributor components, spark plugs, and wires?
Also, my 22R was a carburated engine. Don't have much experience working on the EFI version -- any special precautions I need to take?
08-12-2017, 07:23 PM
#2
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I vote for #1 especially if it is a genuine Toyota head casting, not a chinese aftermarket one.
I Recently rebuilt one that had slipped its chain and all 4 intake valves were bent.
My machinist charged $160 for the work, including 4 new valves and skimming the face of the head.
I Recently rebuilt one that had slipped its chain and all 4 intake valves were bent.
My machinist charged $160 for the work, including 4 new valves and skimming the face of the head.
08-13-2017, 01:18 AM
#3
Another thing to think about is mileage on the engine .
Just what kind of shape is the bottom end in .
Nothing like getting things all back together to have a rod bearing fail a few weeks later .
It all comes down to budget . How much can He afford to spend on his $600.00 truck??
Once the Head is off you will have a better idea till then your just guessing
Just what kind of shape is the bottom end in .
Nothing like getting things all back together to have a rod bearing fail a few weeks later .
It all comes down to budget . How much can He afford to spend on his $600.00 truck??
Once the Head is off you will have a better idea till then your just guessing
08-13-2017, 03:12 AM
#4
If you need help give me a ring.
22RE is pretty tough.
If you need a head I have one and my machinist has one from a customer "walk away". Chinese crap needs a lot of work and might be too soft to boot. Engnblder for the gaskets. Also slice the head .010 to make sure its flat, no need for a gear unless you need a .030 cut.
I would change out all the valves esp the exhaust (burn't) with new springs. Also your camshaft is highly likely to be shot as well. Delta cams in Tacoma WA has a good price for regrounds and good turn around times. Not heard a bad thing about them on this board and I have two from them in running engines. The cam is a slider solid design so if the oil was for modern engines you may have a flat lobe or three. You need to use oil for old muscle cars with non- roller cams, otherwise the modern oil will wear out the cam pretty fast due to lack of zinc and other additives.
Have the guides cut for modern valve seals its worth the extra cost in reduced oil consumption, less friction.
Old springs are probably worn out and not worth saving, since they have lost tension.
If you have the budget for a rebuild....
ARP rod bolts and resize the big end. Stock main cap bolts are fine. Rod bolts fail so in any high mileage rebuild this should be done. Think .020 over bore, no need to max the cut.
So what part of town are you in??
22RE is pretty tough.
If you need a head I have one and my machinist has one from a customer "walk away". Chinese crap needs a lot of work and might be too soft to boot. Engnblder for the gaskets. Also slice the head .010 to make sure its flat, no need for a gear unless you need a .030 cut.
I would change out all the valves esp the exhaust (burn't) with new springs. Also your camshaft is highly likely to be shot as well. Delta cams in Tacoma WA has a good price for regrounds and good turn around times. Not heard a bad thing about them on this board and I have two from them in running engines. The cam is a slider solid design so if the oil was for modern engines you may have a flat lobe or three. You need to use oil for old muscle cars with non- roller cams, otherwise the modern oil will wear out the cam pretty fast due to lack of zinc and other additives.
Have the guides cut for modern valve seals its worth the extra cost in reduced oil consumption, less friction.
Old springs are probably worn out and not worth saving, since they have lost tension.
If you have the budget for a rebuild....
ARP rod bolts and resize the big end. Stock main cap bolts are fine. Rod bolts fail so in any high mileage rebuild this should be done. Think .020 over bore, no need to max the cut.
So what part of town are you in??
