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06-28-2009, 08:06 AM
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3vze starter
my starter has gone out on my truck. this is the 3rd one i've had. The first time it went out it was my moms truck and i was like 7, so she took it to a shop. it then went out on me and i found it very hard to get the started out of the engine compartment. is there any tricks to get the starter in and out?
06-28-2009, 08:38 AM
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sorry to hear about your problems.Im not trying to say your wrong but on my truck the heat plays games with all my electronics and i thought my stater had went out to.you turn the key and her a clack noise but nothing else.I soon discovered if you turn the key to start over and over really fast it will eventually spin and crank up.
at least give it a try before you remove it.
at least give it a try before you remove it.
06-28-2009, 09:16 AM
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then the starter starts to click like that it means the sylonoid is starting to go out. i bought mine from auto zone so it is a pos. mine didn't start clicking though it is just a hum and i bought a new bettery this moring. when i got my starter check it wouldn't even register on the machine
06-28-2009, 01:24 PM
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my starter has gone out on my truck. this is the 3rd one i've had. The first time it went out it was my moms truck and i was like 7, so she took it to a shop. it then went out on me and i found it very hard to get the started out of the engine compartment. is there any tricks to get the starter in and out?
Remove the 2 wires from the starter, and hang them up out of the way someplace.
From there I used a 3/4 ratchet with x-long (14") extension to reach the front starter bolt, the rear, I used a 3/8 ratchet and deep socket. The starter then drops down a bit and comes out of the front, you need to wiggle and reposition it to get it out, it's a tight fit.
For re-installing, getting the starter back into the general area to bolt it back on is fairly easy, but aligning the bolt holes and the flywheel gear is tricky. You want to raise the non-gear end of the starter up toward the top of the engine with the gear end facing straight down, and then move it upwards and toward the front of the truck. Then you can swing the gear-end up and you are lined-up perfectly with the flywheel and bolt holes.
It's tight in there, but the whole job only takes an hour at most and how I described the re-installation will make more sense once you get the starter back in the general area and try to line things up.
Depending on what you drive, it could be a lot easier too.
Last edited by Keyser Söze; 06-28-2009 at 01:40 PM.
06-28-2009, 01:54 PM
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i found out it was just the negative wire came disconected. but I found out that if you turn it flat so that the wires that are connected to the started are facing up. and you take off the heat shield for the exsaust(sp). and the starter will slide right out the side of the wheel well.
06-30-2009, 07:18 PM
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I replaced my starter (from Autozone) about a year ago.
I was fortunate to have a bud that has a lift in his shop,so we did it their.
Only thing I had to do was remove a nut from the heat sheild,bend it out a bit...swear a lot,wiggle,wiggle,wiggle and she came right out.
Going in was same deal...wiggle,wiggle,wiggle.
Long extensions...more swearing,shaved knuckles..the normal routine when working on a Yota.
I must say though. The Autozone starter I got has ,so far has been perfect.
I was fortunate to have a bud that has a lift in his shop,so we did it their.
Only thing I had to do was remove a nut from the heat sheild,bend it out a bit...swear a lot,wiggle,wiggle,wiggle and she came right out.
Going in was same deal...wiggle,wiggle,wiggle.
Long extensions...more swearing,shaved knuckles..the normal routine when working on a Yota.
I must say though. The Autozone starter I got has ,so far has been perfect.
06-30-2009, 07:36 PM
#7
sorry to hear about your problems.Im not trying to say your wrong but on my truck the heat plays games with all my electronics and i thought my stater had went out to.you turn the key and her a clack noise but nothing else.I soon discovered if you turn the key to start over and over really fast it will eventually spin and crank up.
at least give it a try before you remove it.
at least give it a try before you remove it.
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02-21-2012, 09:05 AM
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When removing the starter on my 88 4runner I disconnected the positive battery terminal and then jacked and supported the front of the truck with the tires about 4" off the ground so I could scoot around below everything on my creeper.. I removed the 2 bolts that hold the clutch slave cylinder to the transmission, that allows you to move/reposition it a bit to get some hand clearance around the starter (but be careful not to bend stuff). From the front I removed the skid plate and the passenger side bolt that fastens the steering stabilizer shock and dropped it out of the way.
Remove the 2 wires from the starter, and hang them up out of the way someplace.
From there I used a 3/4 ratchet with x-long (14") extension to reach the front starter bolt, the rear, I used a 3/8 ratchet and deep socket. The starter then drops down a bit and comes out of the front, you need to wiggle and reposition it to get it out, it's a tight fit.
For re-installing, getting the starter back into the general area to bolt it back on is fairly easy, but aligning the bolt holes and the flywheel gear is tricky. You want to raise the non-gear end of the starter up toward the top of the engine with the gear end facing straight down, and then move it upwards and toward the front of the truck. Then you can swing the gear-end up and you are lined-up perfectly with the flywheel and bolt holes.
It's tight in there, but the whole job only takes an hour at most and how I described the re-installation will make more sense once you get the starter back in the general area and try to line things up.
Depending on what you drive, it could be a lot easier too.
Remove the 2 wires from the starter, and hang them up out of the way someplace.
From there I used a 3/4 ratchet with x-long (14") extension to reach the front starter bolt, the rear, I used a 3/8 ratchet and deep socket. The starter then drops down a bit and comes out of the front, you need to wiggle and reposition it to get it out, it's a tight fit.
For re-installing, getting the starter back into the general area to bolt it back on is fairly easy, but aligning the bolt holes and the flywheel gear is tricky. You want to raise the non-gear end of the starter up toward the top of the engine with the gear end facing straight down, and then move it upwards and toward the front of the truck. Then you can swing the gear-end up and you are lined-up perfectly with the flywheel and bolt holes.
It's tight in there, but the whole job only takes an hour at most and how I described the re-installation will make more sense once you get the starter back in the general area and try to line things up.
Depending on what you drive, it could be a lot easier too.
would you say removing the skid plate and steering dampener and slave were manditory
02-21-2012, 10:20 AM
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You do have to remove the skid plate but not the steering dampner or slave cylinder. Get lots of extensions to get the front bolt from in front of the steering dampner then get the back one and the starter comes out of the wheel well. Just turn it flat then pull it out.
02-21-2012, 12:58 PM
#12
Hmmm....I wonder what that is?
Oh...looky there. The starter!
It's almost like they put that there for a reason...
FYI, everything that should have been covered in this thread already has been. And then some...
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...imrockford.htm
Oh...looky there. The starter!
It's almost like they put that there for a reason...
FYI, everything that should have been covered in this thread already has been. And then some...
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...imrockford.htm
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