3.0 MOD Differences - what did you do and what did you notice?
11-30-2006, 07:55 AM
#64
Registered User
dood i just went to the junkyard n the guy told me n showed me the 3rd member! maybe the dood was wrong! i dunno i just took it from him n also he was that will most likly kill ur torque but will give lots more power on the higher rpms! sry for not explainin more clearly and also i was talkin about the locker kill ur bottom end, i was talk about the regearing will kill it!
11-30-2006, 09:41 AM
#65
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 571
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so yeah ... isn't there a 4.56 with an e-locker stock from toyota? I think that I saw something on a website somewhere that says it's around $800 for it. I have no idea what that guy is talking about as far as lose of power.
11-30-2006, 10:27 AM
#66
Registered User
Shoes if your looking for a traction increase I would look into a supra LSD 3rd. If your truck has the 8" rear it should be pretty easy to instal and the cost should be pretty minimal.
E-lockers go for $400-$600 used online.
E-lockers go for $400-$600 used online.
04-12-2007, 09:16 PM
#69
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 1,475
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Alright, I'll chime in here. The current "MOD" I have done is I managed to find the Borla catback exhaust made specifically for my pickup on ebay (it's been discontinued since 2002 so I was pumped that I found it).
I always thought that the Borla catback exhaust systems would have been 2 1/4" in size judging from all the other responses I've heard from guys over the years swearing by 2 1/4" for torque. But the Borla catback system is mandrel bent (obviously - it better be, it's a Borla 304 S/S catback exhaust!) and 2" in size.
Many consider the stock exhaust to be 1 7/8" or 2" pressure bent. I would probably say it's 2" just by looks, but I haven't measured the stock exhaust up close so I can't say. But after bolting on the Borla exhaust I can say Borla made the right decision to stick with 2". From a flow/performance standpoint the only real differences between the Borla system and the stock system (other than the Stainless steel versus aluminized steel, etc.) is the Borla system is mandrel bent versus the stock pressure bent system, and the Borla Muffler obviously flows way better.
Well I was extremely happy with the performance gain. It made the truck run smoother from about 1800-3000 RPM's, and there isn't that "hump" you're used to feeling at about 3000 RPM's with the stock exhaust when she normally starts to pull more. The truck's torque seems to come on earlier, about 2500 RPM's, and the throttle response is drastically improved.
What I am considering doing to further compiment the above mod is to rip out the mid pipe between the stock exhaust manifold and cat and have it replaced by my local muffler shop with a 2" mandrel bent pipe to compliment the mandrel bent exhaust. I would imagine I'd pick up a bit more throttle response from this as well.
The sound is sweet for a 14" muffler. It's not that much louder than stock, which I like, it has an awesome idling tone, and there is virtually no drone while cruising.
The only other "mod" I run is I have all synthetic drive train fluids and synthetic oil. The only virtue from a performance standpoint is the truck sure seems to run well with this stuff, and one stands to reason that these superior fluids can only make your engines job slightly easier. Probably not noticeable to most after the switch, but may be noticeable if you had more displacement I would imagine.
I always thought that the Borla catback exhaust systems would have been 2 1/4" in size judging from all the other responses I've heard from guys over the years swearing by 2 1/4" for torque. But the Borla catback system is mandrel bent (obviously - it better be, it's a Borla 304 S/S catback exhaust!) and 2" in size.
Many consider the stock exhaust to be 1 7/8" or 2" pressure bent. I would probably say it's 2" just by looks, but I haven't measured the stock exhaust up close so I can't say. But after bolting on the Borla exhaust I can say Borla made the right decision to stick with 2". From a flow/performance standpoint the only real differences between the Borla system and the stock system (other than the Stainless steel versus aluminized steel, etc.) is the Borla system is mandrel bent versus the stock pressure bent system, and the Borla Muffler obviously flows way better.
Well I was extremely happy with the performance gain. It made the truck run smoother from about 1800-3000 RPM's, and there isn't that "hump" you're used to feeling at about 3000 RPM's with the stock exhaust when she normally starts to pull more. The truck's torque seems to come on earlier, about 2500 RPM's, and the throttle response is drastically improved.
What I am considering doing to further compiment the above mod is to rip out the mid pipe between the stock exhaust manifold and cat and have it replaced by my local muffler shop with a 2" mandrel bent pipe to compliment the mandrel bent exhaust. I would imagine I'd pick up a bit more throttle response from this as well.
The sound is sweet for a 14" muffler. It's not that much louder than stock, which I like, it has an awesome idling tone, and there is virtually no drone while cruising.
The only other "mod" I run is I have all synthetic drive train fluids and synthetic oil. The only virtue from a performance standpoint is the truck sure seems to run well with this stuff, and one stands to reason that these superior fluids can only make your engines job slightly easier. Probably not noticeable to most after the switch, but may be noticeable if you had more displacement I would imagine.
04-13-2007, 05:55 AM
#70
Registered User
well all of my mods that ive done make my truck a HECK of a lot more fun to drive! 40-60 passing can be done in 7 seconds flat. 0-60 went from high 13s down to low 12s. And when its cold out? hoooollllleeee crap the engine's got get up and go well for a 3vze. 
The engine doesnt fall on its face at 4800 rpm anymore, instead it just keeps on pulling all the way to red line. AND it has a nice lumpy idle that you can juuuust hear. On highway she will hold 95mph in overdrive with TQ locked without issue. Downshift at that speed and the truck starts accellerating slowly! Not bad for a 150hp engine moving a 5000lb suv around!
All in all im VERY happy with my engine.
Oh yeah and Im currently running 13*btdc with ZERO pinging.
And yes the 3vze is fun to work on!
ps - no turbo for me until I rebuild the bottom end.
The engine doesnt fall on its face at 4800 rpm anymore, instead it just keeps on pulling all the way to red line. AND it has a nice lumpy idle that you can juuuust hear.
On highway she will hold 95mph in overdrive with TQ locked without issue. Downshift at that speed and the truck starts accellerating slowly! Not bad for a 150hp engine moving a 5000lb suv around! All in all im VERY happy with my engine.
Oh yeah and Im currently running 13*btdc with ZERO pinging.
And yes the 3vze is fun to work on!
ps - no turbo for me until I rebuild the bottom end.
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 04-13-2007 at 05:59 AM.
04-13-2007, 06:53 AM
#71
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kansas
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1995 4Runner 3.0 4 X 4 5 speed
Downey ceramic headers, high flow cat, Borla open muffler, 2.25" exhaust from headers back. KN drop in air fliter.
It was loud, at 80 MPH it resonated inside alot. The sound was great in town but got old on long trips cross country. At 90 MPH the resonating quit and it was much quieter. Also noise at 70 MPH was not to bad.
I noticed that with such an open free flowing system that I lost low rpm torque. It would run 100+ MPH though. I do not recommend this set up. It is too noisy on the highway and not enough torque on the low end to 4 wheel in anything mushy like mud, sand, or snow. Power did not come on until around 3000 rpm. Throttle response was slow. I could drop the clutch at 4500 rpm an manage to squeek the tires and lay 2-3 feet of rubber with
31" all terrain tires on dry concrete. Then the engine would nearly stall. If I had to do it again and engine swap was not an option I would try
1.75"-2" from header then join into a 2.25" before the cat and use a turbo muffler of some type. the above setup cost $1200.00 including headers, cat, borla muffler, and exhaust buildup.
I swapped in a 3.4 from a 1999 tacoma. I used the factory tubular exhaust manifold and matching crossover. Then went into my 2.25" exhaust which is the same one discribeded above. Used the factory manifold to try and preserve low end torque. This combination is a butt kicker. It has all the power and torque in all the places that it should be. Throttle response is fast. It still sounds very good and deep outside but do not have the loud resonating inside. Noise level inside is very comfortable for talking in a normal voice. From a stop on dry pavement and 4500 rpm if i drop the clutch is will leave 20 + feet of rubber from the new 32" tires. Regularly getting 19 MPG city or highway. The above setup not including the engine swap was $120 for the exhaust mainfolds, crossover, and exhaust piping to mate with existing exhaust system.
Using an Injen intake on the 3.4. It has more noise than stock but not too much in my opinion. Can still talk inside at 80 MPH in normal voice.
Downey ceramic headers, high flow cat, Borla open muffler, 2.25" exhaust from headers back. KN drop in air fliter.
It was loud, at 80 MPH it resonated inside alot. The sound was great in town but got old on long trips cross country. At 90 MPH the resonating quit and it was much quieter. Also noise at 70 MPH was not to bad.
I noticed that with such an open free flowing system that I lost low rpm torque. It would run 100+ MPH though. I do not recommend this set up. It is too noisy on the highway and not enough torque on the low end to 4 wheel in anything mushy like mud, sand, or snow. Power did not come on until around 3000 rpm. Throttle response was slow. I could drop the clutch at 4500 rpm an manage to squeek the tires and lay 2-3 feet of rubber with
31" all terrain tires on dry concrete. Then the engine would nearly stall. If I had to do it again and engine swap was not an option I would try
1.75"-2" from header then join into a 2.25" before the cat and use a turbo muffler of some type. the above setup cost $1200.00 including headers, cat, borla muffler, and exhaust buildup.
I swapped in a 3.4 from a 1999 tacoma. I used the factory tubular exhaust manifold and matching crossover. Then went into my 2.25" exhaust which is the same one discribeded above. Used the factory manifold to try and preserve low end torque. This combination is a butt kicker. It has all the power and torque in all the places that it should be. Throttle response is fast. It still sounds very good and deep outside but do not have the loud resonating inside. Noise level inside is very comfortable for talking in a normal voice. From a stop on dry pavement and 4500 rpm if i drop the clutch is will leave 20 + feet of rubber from the new 32" tires. Regularly getting 19 MPG city or highway. The above setup not including the engine swap was $120 for the exhaust mainfolds, crossover, and exhaust piping to mate with existing exhaust system.
Using an Injen intake on the 3.4. It has more noise than stock but not too much in my opinion. Can still talk inside at 80 MPH in normal voice.
04-13-2007, 07:13 AM
#72
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lake Mary, FL
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
mods...
(*)The very first thing I did was add a better stereo. WITH sat. radio. its the best when you are in the middle of nowhere. I upgraded the speakers front and back and didn't really notice that much of a differernce in sound, just a little more trebble.
(*)Next I removed my running boards and mudflaps. gives the ol' runner a more aggressive stance IMO. Its pretty nice having the little extra clearance in rough country.
(*)Third I severely drilled out my airbox, and noticed a little more noise, and a little extra torque. I think this was a worthwhile mod.
(*)Lately I have had a little extra $$$ and finally bought my new rear springs(!!!) by far the best mod I have done to my truck so far. I had forgot how damn aggressive the 2nd gen looks when it is level or (+2.5") in my case. I park it next to 3rd gens and NewRunners and love to see if from the rear. I stand JUST that much taller then them...its great. The kit i purchased was the Eibach Prokit. for 124.99 at autoanything.com, VERY good site. got my parts in GA from CA in 2 days.
(*)Few weeks back i chopped up an old AEM intake and replaced my ISR, got a little top end back, and feels nice. Sounds good too.
(*)Then i had a small exhaust leak, so a buddy and I chopped off my muffler. its legal in my county. so i like it for now, but I have a delta40 in my garage, soon to be put on.
(*)Last night I put on a monroe steering stablilzer from advanced auto. $27.99 and WELL worth it. no more wheel wobble, and a MUCH smoother feeling ride. bumpsteer is lessened. its a very worthwhile mod.
(*)The most important mod, and the one i keep overlooking is new TIRES.. they are absolutely NEXT on my list.
(*)Next I removed my running boards and mudflaps. gives the ol' runner a more aggressive stance IMO. Its pretty nice having the little extra clearance in rough country.
(*)Third I severely drilled out my airbox, and noticed a little more noise, and a little extra torque. I think this was a worthwhile mod.
(*)Lately I have had a little extra $$$ and finally bought my new rear springs(!!!) by far the best mod I have done to my truck so far. I had forgot how damn aggressive the 2nd gen looks when it is level or (+2.5") in my case. I park it next to 3rd gens and NewRunners and love to see if from the rear. I stand JUST that much taller then them...its great. The kit i purchased was the Eibach Prokit. for 124.99 at autoanything.com, VERY good site. got my parts in GA from CA in 2 days.
(*)Few weeks back i chopped up an old AEM intake and replaced my ISR, got a little top end back, and feels nice. Sounds good too.
(*)Then i had a small exhaust leak, so a buddy and I chopped off my muffler. its legal in my county. so i like it for now, but I have a delta40 in my garage, soon to be put on.
(*)Last night I put on a monroe steering stablilzer from advanced auto. $27.99 and WELL worth it. no more wheel wobble, and a MUCH smoother feeling ride. bumpsteer is lessened. its a very worthwhile mod.
(*)The most important mod, and the one i keep overlooking is new TIRES.. they are absolutely NEXT on my list.
Last edited by GA95Runner; 04-13-2007 at 07:16 AM.
04-13-2007, 08:35 AM
#73
Registered User
4) Even though I mentioned it above, the Downey Headers I installed get a special mention.
Cost = ~$350 on paper, but a hell of a lot more than that in residual repairs.
Result = Headers -- the mod that keeps coming back. The mod that keeps emptying my bank account. The mod that is never done robbing my wallet. The mod from hell. Even though mine are ceramic coated, I have had all sorts of issues with over heating component in the engine bay. I've burned through 5 speedo cables at this point and there's seemingly no way to route it far enough from the exhaust pipes to keep it from happening. I've cooked two starters. I've burned the floor board on the passenger side so badly that it melted through my speaker cables and RCA outputs. I have had over heating issues that aren't directly related to the addition of the headers, but the temp in the engine compartment is so hot in the summer that it surely doesn't help. I would never install headers again.
Ed
Cost = ~$350 on paper, but a hell of a lot more than that in residual repairs.
Result = Headers -- the mod that keeps coming back. The mod that keeps emptying my bank account. The mod that is never done robbing my wallet. The mod from hell. Even though mine are ceramic coated, I have had all sorts of issues with over heating component in the engine bay. I've burned through 5 speedo cables at this point and there's seemingly no way to route it far enough from the exhaust pipes to keep it from happening. I've cooked two starters. I've burned the floor board on the passenger side so badly that it melted through my speaker cables and RCA outputs. I have had over heating issues that aren't directly related to the addition of the headers, but the temp in the engine compartment is so hot in the summer that it surely doesn't help. I would never install headers again.
Ed
04-14-2007, 03:44 AM
#74
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kansas
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Epic Ed
4) Even though I mentioned it above, the Downey Headers I installed get a special mention.
Cost = ~$350 on paper, but a hell of a lot more than that in residual repairs.
Result = Headers -- the mod that keeps coming back. The mod that keeps emptying my bank account. The mod that is never done robbing my wallet. The mod from hell. Even though mine are ceramic coated, I have had all sorts of issues with over heating component in the engine bay. I've burned through 5 speedo cables at this point and there's seemingly no way to route it far enough from the exhaust pipes to keep it from happening. I've cooked two starters. I've burned the floor board on the passenger side so badly that it melted through my speaker cables and RCA outputs. I have had over heating issues that aren't directly related to the addition of the headers, but the temp in the engine compartment is so hot in the summer that it surely doesn't help. I would never install headers again.
Ed
DO NOT WRAP ceramic coated headers. They will crack very fast and very bad. I learned this the hard way by wrapping mine on the passenger side for same heat porblems as noted above. In less than 10000 miles it was cracked in 3 places around the collector, and the ceramic coating fell off. You will be better off to fab a metal heat shield. You could one of those thick aluminum disposable turkey cooking pans from Walmart. Secure it in place with wire or steel hose clamps, etc.
4) Even though I mentioned it above, the Downey Headers I installed get a special mention.
Cost = ~$350 on paper, but a hell of a lot more than that in residual repairs.
Result = Headers -- the mod that keeps coming back. The mod that keeps emptying my bank account. The mod that is never done robbing my wallet. The mod from hell. Even though mine are ceramic coated, I have had all sorts of issues with over heating component in the engine bay. I've burned through 5 speedo cables at this point and there's seemingly no way to route it far enough from the exhaust pipes to keep it from happening. I've cooked two starters. I've burned the floor board on the passenger side so badly that it melted through my speaker cables and RCA outputs. I have had over heating issues that aren't directly related to the addition of the headers, but the temp in the engine compartment is so hot in the summer that it surely doesn't help. I would never install headers again.
Ed
DO NOT WRAP ceramic coated headers. They will crack very fast and very bad. I learned this the hard way by wrapping mine on the passenger side for same heat porblems as noted above. In less than 10000 miles it was cracked in 3 places around the collector, and the ceramic coating fell off. You will be better off to fab a metal heat shield. You could one of those thick aluminum disposable turkey cooking pans from Walmart. Secure it in place with wire or steel hose clamps, etc.
Last edited by Kutter; 04-14-2007 at 03:59 AM.
06-16-2007, 08:17 PM
#76
Registered User
Since I bought my 94 in November of last year:
1. Took off running boards....increased the aesthetic looks
2. Put in heavy Downey rear coils....raised rear end, makes it ride much better
3. Installed Rancho shocks....rides even better
4. Front end alignment....stays going in a straight line (new idler arm, pitman arm, tie rod ends)
5. Installed Jacobs ignition system....idles much better as a result, less pinging (got it off ebay for $100
6. New cap, rotor, wires and NGK iridium spark plugs....better MPG
7. Downey headers & dual exhaust with flowmaster 40 series mufflers....definite increase in power and LOVE the way she sounds. (My favorite mod)
8. Cold air intake from Hiprospeed on Ebay...definite increase in power, MPG (2nd favorite mod)
9. Removed faulty EGR valve and blocked it off....throttle response, exhaust doesn't stink like it did(just did it tonight so I've got testing to do yet)
10. Replaced o2 sensor....no noticeable difference
IMO: the 3vze engine is a great engine once you take off all the restrictive crap that makes it run like crap. IMO the 3.0 V6 is also pretty easy to work on, it's laid out well. I love my 4runner...its the perfect rig for traveling.
Advice to you people that have stainless headers: wrap those things BEFORE you go anywhere with them on. I had to replace my kickdown cable cuz they burnt it up when I first installed them.
1. Took off running boards....increased the aesthetic looks
2. Put in heavy Downey rear coils....raised rear end, makes it ride much better
3. Installed Rancho shocks....rides even better
4. Front end alignment....stays going in a straight line (new idler arm, pitman arm, tie rod ends)
5. Installed Jacobs ignition system....idles much better as a result, less pinging (got it off ebay for $100
6. New cap, rotor, wires and NGK iridium spark plugs....better MPG
7. Downey headers & dual exhaust with flowmaster 40 series mufflers....definite increase in power and LOVE the way she sounds. (My favorite mod)
8. Cold air intake from Hiprospeed on Ebay...definite increase in power, MPG (2nd favorite mod)
9. Removed faulty EGR valve and blocked it off....throttle response, exhaust doesn't stink like it did(just did it tonight so I've got testing to do yet)
10. Replaced o2 sensor....no noticeable difference
IMO: the 3vze engine is a great engine once you take off all the restrictive crap that makes it run like crap. IMO the 3.0 V6 is also pretty easy to work on, it's laid out well. I love my 4runner...its the perfect rig for traveling.
Advice to you people that have stainless headers: wrap those things BEFORE you go anywhere with them on. I had to replace my kickdown cable cuz they burnt it up when I first installed them.
07-31-2007, 10:28 AM
#78
Registered User
ive changed:
-top end rebuild,new valves,timming,clean injectors,blabla
-new cap ,rotor,wires,sparkplugs ngk iridium,new batterie,4 gauge wire to alt and to batterie,upgraded overall grounds
-electric flexalite fan,ISR mod,k&n filter,drilled airbox.
-"chief pipe mod" same as headers but homemade,to terminator muffler no catalyser.
-new O2 sensor ngk,new tps and adjuted perfectly,clean maf sensor and intake,cleaned throtle boddy.
-running only sintech oil all around,and 94 octane gas all weater.with advance timming,currrently at 17 advance no piging.
great truck even if its still quite slow compared to a taco 3.4
this truck never let me down with 240 000 km on it .
-top end rebuild,new valves,timming,clean injectors,blabla
-new cap ,rotor,wires,sparkplugs ngk iridium,new batterie,4 gauge wire to alt and to batterie,upgraded overall grounds
-electric flexalite fan,ISR mod,k&n filter,drilled airbox.
-"chief pipe mod" same as headers but homemade,to terminator muffler no catalyser.
-new O2 sensor ngk,new tps and adjuted perfectly,clean maf sensor and intake,cleaned throtle boddy.
-running only sintech oil all around,and 94 octane gas all weater.with advance timming,currrently at 17 advance no piging.
great truck even if its still quite slow compared to a taco 3.4
this truck never let me down with 240 000 km on it .
07-31-2007, 10:44 AM
#79
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Littleton, co
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
- Open air intake- Free, So im not complaning, instalation was a breese.
- Flowmaster 40 series muffler- verry happy, love the sound, best $172 i ever spent, labor included.
- magniflow cat- i dont know yet, just got it in the mail today.
- irridum spark plugs, another great investment. not too hard to install, universal joint, is a great help on that one. increase Hp and gas mileage.
im getting around 20 in the city now. and im not sure about highway.
- Flowmaster 40 series muffler- verry happy, love the sound, best $172 i ever spent, labor included.
- magniflow cat- i dont know yet, just got it in the mail today.
- irridum spark plugs, another great investment. not too hard to install, universal joint, is a great help on that one. increase Hp and gas mileage.
im getting around 20 in the city now. and im not sure about highway.
08-03-2007, 12:58 PM
#80
Registered User
I have done just about everything possible to the 3.slow and can say that there are very limited returns on investment.
The 3.slow is a poor breathing motor primarly due to the head design and there's not a lot you can do.
In order to get any returns on external investment you have to go into the heads, porting, cams, oversize valves at which point you will begin to see some small gains.
You will spend buckets of money trying to get small gains out of the 3.slow. You are far better off saving your money for a 3.4 swap.
I've done
K&N FPIC
Porting, polishing and gasket matching of the entire intake track, TB, upper plenum, lower plenum, heads, headers.
Cams
Oversize valves
balanced injectors
ceramic coating in the heads, piston tops, headers and y pipe
NWOR headers
Gibson 2.5" cat back
High flow cat (melted internally, now gutted)
Jacobs ignition
and I'm sure there's some performance goodies I've forgotten too, but I've pretty much done everything possible to a naturally aspirated 3.slow. Yes, it runs good for a 3.slow, but for the $ I spent I could easily have a supercharged 3.4 which would run circles around mine.
The 3.slow is a poor breathing motor primarly due to the head design and there's not a lot you can do.
In order to get any returns on external investment you have to go into the heads, porting, cams, oversize valves at which point you will begin to see some small gains.
You will spend buckets of money trying to get small gains out of the 3.slow. You are far better off saving your money for a 3.4 swap.
I've done
K&N FPIC
Porting, polishing and gasket matching of the entire intake track, TB, upper plenum, lower plenum, heads, headers.
Cams
Oversize valves
balanced injectors
ceramic coating in the heads, piston tops, headers and y pipe
NWOR headers
Gibson 2.5" cat back
High flow cat (melted internally, now gutted)
Jacobs ignition
and I'm sure there's some performance goodies I've forgotten too, but I've pretty much done everything possible to a naturally aspirated 3.slow. Yes, it runs good for a 3.slow, but for the $ I spent I could easily have a supercharged 3.4 which would run circles around mine.
