22RE not turnin over?
#1
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22RE not turnin over?
Hi,
I am new to this forum but have been searching and reading topics for a while. I own a 85 4x4 reg cab. I can't seem to figure out my problem. I turn the key on and get full power everywhere. Fuel pump turns on all lights work but when I go to start the truck all I get is a click. Starter does not engage at all. I just replaced my starter (finally took a dump on me) and replaced my battery cables (they were starting to corrode from the inside). So those problems are eliminated. The clutch start cancel button has been removed from previous owner so I don't have to put in clutch to start. Either the ignition switch is bad or something to do with the clutch start switch. I'm sure others have had the same problems. Can I get a few suggestions. Thanks
I am new to this forum but have been searching and reading topics for a while. I own a 85 4x4 reg cab. I can't seem to figure out my problem. I turn the key on and get full power everywhere. Fuel pump turns on all lights work but when I go to start the truck all I get is a click. Starter does not engage at all. I just replaced my starter (finally took a dump on me) and replaced my battery cables (they were starting to corrode from the inside). So those problems are eliminated. The clutch start cancel button has been removed from previous owner so I don't have to put in clutch to start. Either the ignition switch is bad or something to do with the clutch start switch. I'm sure others have had the same problems. Can I get a few suggestions. Thanks
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Does the problem exist every time or is it just intermittent? I've had that happen once or twice but removing the key and then re-inserting, it started right up.
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It was an intermittent problem like you said but now it seems to never want to turn over. I have tried taking the key in and out plenty of times but it's getting frustrating. I can push start it just fine and it turns over easy in 2nd gear. One thing I noticed is that the ignition switch is gettin pretty old and warn out. If I push the button and turn the key all the way back it is hard to turn to the on position and usually gets stuck.
#6
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if you have a meter & someone to help, put the test leads on the batt & have someone turn the key. you should have a several Volt drop If your starter is wired right & bad (not burned open) . What i mean is if you see a change in voltage that would rule out the switch. That should be an easy check before crawling through & testing the connections w/a meter while someone turns the key. You could probably use a 12v test light too, if it dims, same thing.
#7
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How old is the battery? Like above put a meter on the battery terminals and try to start it, see exactly how much of a drop you have.
Try a different battery. If you have another vehicle but the posts are different you can use jumper cables, just be careful! It might be the battery doesn't have enough umphh to turn the starter, but has enough juice to run accesories.
Try a different battery. If you have another vehicle but the posts are different you can use jumper cables, just be careful! It might be the battery doesn't have enough umphh to turn the starter, but has enough juice to run accesories.
Last edited by PirateFins; 02-28-2006 at 06:11 AM.
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#8
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i agree with you < PIRATEFINS > jump it. Even with a meter it is difficult to understand why a starter in nonresponsive w/a 12V-14V reading. If it starts it would be a Power delivery problem: batt, alt, oxidation or incorrect wire guage( bigger the better, not longer)
on the 80's toyotas i've had, the starter either actuates or nothing. (no clicking). some of them had to be smacked w/a hammer if the armature froze-up. i cant say that i have ever replaced one.
i wouldn't jump it with the other car running or key on just in case your new starter is shorted, binding. in fact, disconnect one of his batt terms 1st. might light-up your friends electronics!
on the 80's toyotas i've had, the starter either actuates or nothing. (no clicking). some of them had to be smacked w/a hammer if the armature froze-up. i cant say that i have ever replaced one.
i wouldn't jump it with the other car running or key on just in case your new starter is shorted, binding. in fact, disconnect one of his batt terms 1st. might light-up your friends electronics!
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I had the same problem on my 87. If the solinoid does not kick the gear out far enough then the contact does not make for the motor power. Take the stater off and put some grease on the gear teeth. That will let them mesh better and allow them to slide in farther. Sometimes just loosening the starter and then tighten again will put it in a bit different place allowing full engagement.
#10
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also, make sure that the wires are all on properly. my truck did that too after i installed a fuel filter and come to find out my power little brown wire on the starter was just hangin. i hooked it back up and worked good
bryan
bryan
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Thanks for all the replies but I know it is not the battery because I tried another battery and I also tried jumping it. There are no loose wires either. I am pretty sure that it is the ignition switch that is worn out so I am going to replace it this weekend. Also has anyone heard or had good experience with the Painless wiring hot shot relay kit. I have been reading about it and it looks like it will help the toyota starting system a lot.
#12
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Grab a jumper cable put one end on the ground of the battery, put the other end on the motor. Any bolt free space will do. Try turning over the motor.
I had problems with my 22r turning real slow, or clicking. Ran a jumper like I said and it spins fine and fires up.
The Pos wire goes from the battery to the starter, so there is no ground leg for the starter. Running the ground from the battery to the motor will complete the leg. I'm guessing at some point in time the motor had a strap that connected to the frame. So if the jumper wire thing works, look for a strap between the motor and the frame. it may be dirty or not making good connection.
There's 2 wires on the starter, both got hooked back up ???
I had problems with my 22r turning real slow, or clicking. Ran a jumper like I said and it spins fine and fires up.
The Pos wire goes from the battery to the starter, so there is no ground leg for the starter. Running the ground from the battery to the motor will complete the leg. I'm guessing at some point in time the motor had a strap that connected to the frame. So if the jumper wire thing works, look for a strap between the motor and the frame. it may be dirty or not making good connection.
There's 2 wires on the starter, both got hooked back up ???
#13
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Did you check the Voltage drop with a meter?
Just trying to help you diagnose the switch the easy way & save you $.
i think that you stated at first there was "a click" which is a reponse from the switch which tells me its working fine.
IF no Voltage drop...
try & track the relay down, by sound if you have too while someone turns the key.
this would be my next guess. (just because it clicks doesnt mean it's allowing Current to flow through) may just need the carbon removed from the contacts. Sorry that i can't tell you where it is.
looked a the relay kit, seems ok but probably not any better than what you have already. also not a fan of crimp-on connectors either especially in an engine compartment. you may get a year out of the connectors at the starter around here unless you modify it or keep lots of dialectric greese on it.
i think that you stated at first there was "a click" which is a reponse from the switch which tells me its working fine.
IF no Voltage drop...
try & track the relay down, by sound if you have too while someone turns the key.
this would be my next guess. (just because it clicks doesnt mean it's allowing Current to flow through) may just need the carbon removed from the contacts. Sorry that i can't tell you where it is.
looked a the relay kit, seems ok but probably not any better than what you have already. also not a fan of crimp-on connectors either especially in an engine compartment. you may get a year out of the connectors at the starter around here unless you modify it or keep lots of dialectric greese on it.
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I will try some of those suggestions when I get some time this weekend. As for the jumper cable idea I don't think it will work for me because my battery is behind the cab of my truck. The cable wouldn't be long enough.
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Well I went to look at my ignition switch today and turns out a wire came loose that was originally in a crimp type connector. put a new connector on and she fires right over. It is always the most stupid things that you never think about. Thanks for everyones help.
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