22re new head, cam, timing kit
12-19-2009, 06:56 PM
#22
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I think you should just slap the new head and be done with it! I wanna see a video of that thing running if you have the capabilities of posting one. It's gonna purr with that engnbldr head. That chain guide appears to be intact in the photo so I'm guessing it was new with the motor at 200K and the grooves were because the cover was reused already. Just a guess though.
Last edited by pruney81; 12-19-2009 at 06:58 PM.
12-19-2009, 08:03 PM
#23
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You're supposed to put some oil on the headbolts in order to get a correct torque value. I've also been told to replace the headbolts with new ones, or you'll have a blown head gasket in a year. Just thought I'd throw that out there for ya.
12-20-2009, 12:10 AM
#25
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take pics for sharing of that chain fix without you removing the head.
As for your AFM check, 4crawler has a quick write up on doing a dynamic test here:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml
and the part that you reminded me of was this:
As for your AFM check, 4crawler has a quick write up on doing a dynamic test here:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml
and the part that you reminded me of was this:
On [dynamic] test #2, you should see the resistance generally increase as the AFM plate is moved from closed to open, but it may not be in a smooth linear fashion. The resistor track in the AFM is laser trimmed for calibration at the factory and you may see sections where the resistance first increases, the drops down a little before increasing some more. What you want to watch for are places where the resistance drops below 20 or above 1000 ohms (for example if it goes to infinite/open circuit) as that would indicate a problem.
Well...what's happening with your progress???
Note: I just discovered that my timing chain guides are bad and so I'm doing a "timing chain R&R without remove the head.
I think I discovered my idle issue. After removing the rocker cover, I noticed the rubber tube that should be connected to the bottom port on the ERG vacuum modulator was OFF. There was carbon all over the bottom of it, obviously blowing out the tube.
I bought a new (rebuilt) mass air flow sensor from Autozone and tested it for ohms per FSM.. it failed. I am taking it back and getting a refund.
I read on one of the posts that the MAFS (AFM) should show steps in ohm when opening the gate from the closed position, but my DVM shows no reading on some of the positions as I slowing open the gate (flapper). I'm wondering if that is normal, or not.
gNARLS.
Note: I just discovered that my timing chain guides are bad and so I'm doing a "timing chain R&R without remove the head.
I think I discovered my idle issue. After removing the rocker cover, I noticed the rubber tube that should be connected to the bottom port on the ERG vacuum modulator was OFF. There was carbon all over the bottom of it, obviously blowing out the tube.
I bought a new (rebuilt) mass air flow sensor from Autozone and tested it for ohms per FSM.. it failed. I am taking it back and getting a refund.
I read on one of the posts that the MAFS (AFM) should show steps in ohm when opening the gate from the closed position, but my DVM shows no reading on some of the positions as I slowing open the gate (flapper). I'm wondering if that is normal, or not.
gNARLS.
12-20-2009, 09:56 AM
#26
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I don't think you need to test the MAF while it's on the truck. I didn't and it passed. the hardest part is coordinating your fingers holding the meter probes on the contacts while manipulating the gate.
12-20-2009, 10:12 AM
#27
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i used my original bolts about 2 years ago, still no problems.
the 22re head bolts are not tty, so its ok to reuse them.
12-21-2009, 08:40 AM
#28
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Hey guys. Thanks for keeping things going while I've been busy.
Gnarly-too bad about that Autozone part. Good thing you checked it. I just would have slapped it in and wondered why it didn't fix the problem.
I knew my 4th cylinder spark plug wasn't firing, but I couldn't get it out of the old head without stripping everything. I thought it was just fouled out but apparently the ceramic part had completely broken off.
Is that what "pitting" is? What are all of those little chips from?
I scraped and cleaned and scraped and cleaned. Then I cut a groove in one of my old head bolts (great idea, thanks). By hand I threaded it into and back out of every hole in my block over and over again until it came out clean. Worked great, but a little tedious. Then I scraped and cleaned some more. I figure I can make up for my lack of knowledge and experience by being super meticulous and thorough.
Then for the big moment:
I got the headbolts all torqued down in four careful passes. Lots of shiny parts in that old truck now! I got held up because I had to go to Toyota to get the intake and exhaust manifold studs. I tried to get my old ones out of the old head with no luck. All I managed to do was mangle them. Under $20 so I wasn't too broken up.
My old rocker arms felt pretty solid giving them the "wiggle test" so I feel good about them.
I adjusted my valves to .007 and .009 and am now all set for the intake manifold. I'm a little stressed because it was such a B to get out of there. I'm hoping it will magically slide back in. Wish me luck.
Gnarly-too bad about that Autozone part. Good thing you checked it. I just would have slapped it in and wondered why it didn't fix the problem.
I knew my 4th cylinder spark plug wasn't firing, but I couldn't get it out of the old head without stripping everything. I thought it was just fouled out but apparently the ceramic part had completely broken off.
Is that what "pitting" is? What are all of those little chips from?
I scraped and cleaned and scraped and cleaned. Then I cut a groove in one of my old head bolts (great idea, thanks). By hand I threaded it into and back out of every hole in my block over and over again until it came out clean. Worked great, but a little tedious. Then I scraped and cleaned some more. I figure I can make up for my lack of knowledge and experience by being super meticulous and thorough.
Then for the big moment:
I got the headbolts all torqued down in four careful passes. Lots of shiny parts in that old truck now! I got held up because I had to go to Toyota to get the intake and exhaust manifold studs. I tried to get my old ones out of the old head with no luck. All I managed to do was mangle them. Under $20 so I wasn't too broken up.
My old rocker arms felt pretty solid giving them the "wiggle test" so I feel good about them.
I adjusted my valves to .007 and .009 and am now all set for the intake manifold. I'm a little stressed because it was such a B to get out of there. I'm hoping it will magically slide back in. Wish me luck.
12-21-2009, 10:10 AM
#29
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what about your coolant tubes(or whatever the hell they are) that pass along the back of the head.....i don't see them...get them on there before you buckle everything in....i heard they area a beyotch to try to do after the head is on....SORRY...but i noticed that.
GOOD JOB MAN though....Iam totally jealous!!!!!!
GOOD JOB MAN though....Iam totally jealous!!!!!!
12-21-2009, 11:45 AM
#31
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Those tubes can be a real pain to get in after the head is on. I read somewhere that the one chap had to pull the head again to get them in. On is for the EGR stuff the other is a coolant line.
12-21-2009, 11:48 AM
#32
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12-21-2009, 11:49 AM
#33
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
12-21-2009, 11:56 AM
#34
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not I my friend. It was a thread I had read before I had done mine and I'm glad I had read his mistake cuz I probably would have done the same.
12-21-2009, 12:01 PM
#35
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I don't know how i did it either? And to top it off, when i had everything together, i started her up, went to engine bay and fuel was wizzin out from 2 places. The fuel filter and fuel rail. Man am i glad i caught that. Anyway was a bitch to torque those junctions. Yes i did replace filter, LOL 21 years and 276k later i guess i was due.
12-21-2009, 02:24 PM
#37
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Progress is looking good! Ordered my new head and cam today from engnbldr. Can't wait to get it!
I still need to order Ted's rebuild kit and timing cover. I probably should have bought it all at once, but I had the money for the head and cam today and decided to pull the trigger... I didn't want to get the urge to spend my money on other stuff!
I bought a rebuildable block from a local guy so I'm going to do an entire engine rebuild and just swap it out once it's done, that way I can take my time, do it all right and not have to rush. My 4Runner is my daily driver so I can't afford the downtime.
I still need to order Ted's rebuild kit and timing cover. I probably should have bought it all at once, but I had the money for the head and cam today and decided to pull the trigger... I didn't want to get the urge to spend my money on other stuff!
I bought a rebuildable block from a local guy so I'm going to do an entire engine rebuild and just swap it out once it's done, that way I can take my time, do it all right and not have to rush. My 4Runner is my daily driver so I can't afford the downtime.
12-21-2009, 03:01 PM
#38
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that actuall name of the bolt that go's in the fuel rail is called a banjo bolt. the copper seals do not have to be replaced if they have not been over tighten.. look in your manual it will give you a torque spec to tighten all those bolt back up.. thats good you bought new head bolts.. buy a good head-gasket while you at it... when i bought my truck i paid 600 bucks for it. as far a i new it had water and coolant in cly. # 3&4 for aleast a month.. so when i was tearing it down i was like, hell with it lets just look for a whole new engine.. and do a prefromace build down the road... GET that cd off ebay, its a step by step on the whole rebuild.. so i only heard good things about it.. I just never got around buying one for myself yet. Make sure you replace those circle gaskets on the exhuast manifold.. Like i said make sure you use a torque wrench on everything if you want it to last.. Get good rtv and use a good loctie on all the bolts. and put some antisese on your spark plugs.. so they dont get stuck.. anymore. good luck.. your doing a outstanding job for your first time..
12-21-2009, 03:21 PM
#39
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go ahead and change your fuel filter and oil filter while you have everything off.. just makes it easier ya know... you will get new copper seals when u get a new fuel filter.. but if your old copper seal are not smash then they are still good. by the way that little sensor to the left of your oil filter is your knock sensor and it controls the pcm with timing and retarding and if you break it for what ever reason be prepared to spend about 130-180 bucks at the part store for a new one.. the oil pressure sensor is below the oil filter.. no near as expesive as knock sensor... taking the time to bag and tag and take pictures will help you out in the long run when your truck starts up on the first try.. you be excited.. Oh by the way make sure label your return fuel line that is rubber it comes off the fuel rail.. i had mine wrote down as vacum line and started the engine. well i had gas spraying everwhere i was luck there wasnt a fire.. in my case.... slow is fast.. and pictures let you see what you forgot.. about...
12-21-2009, 05:02 PM
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Big day today. Got the intake manifold and air injection chamber back on. Then had to take the dang injection chamber. I was so excited to be putting things back together that I forgot to thread all of the injector connections and such through. Damn. Don't do that.
Got 'em all hooked up, put the chamber back on.
Began to hook up all of the rest of the connections from the wiring harness. That's when a good day started to go bad.
Broke the pigtail from the wiring harness that connects into the temperature sensor? on the top of the thermostat housing:
Nobody, not even Toyota can get that part. Tomorrow I'll be visiting junkyards. Any ideas here?
I went underneath to hook up the rest of the wiring and my worst fear in the whole process was realized. I can't figure out where this thing plugs into:
It's light blue and looks like the plugins for the fuel injectors. I've plugged in all four injectors, plus one green and one brown in the front of the fuel line. The mystery plug hangs low but I don't know where it goes. Help please!
I labeled lots of things and there were some loose plugs, but I thought I labeled all of them as such. Not this one though. Did I miss the label or am I not seeing where it goes? No A/C on this truck if that helps.
Got 'em all hooked up, put the chamber back on.
Began to hook up all of the rest of the connections from the wiring harness. That's when a good day started to go bad.
Broke the pigtail from the wiring harness that connects into the temperature sensor? on the top of the thermostat housing:
Nobody, not even Toyota can get that part. Tomorrow I'll be visiting junkyards. Any ideas here?
I went underneath to hook up the rest of the wiring and my worst fear in the whole process was realized. I can't figure out where this thing plugs into:
It's light blue and looks like the plugins for the fuel injectors. I've plugged in all four injectors, plus one green and one brown in the front of the fuel line. The mystery plug hangs low but I don't know where it goes. Help please!
I labeled lots of things and there were some loose plugs, but I thought I labeled all of them as such. Not this one though. Did I miss the label or am I not seeing where it goes? No A/C on this truck if that helps.
