Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Here is a pretty thorough pamphlet from the guys over at amsoil

You probably do a bit of engine braking while creeping. Try not to would be my recommendation, brake pads are cheaper than motors.

Anything over 40-45 would be "hwy".

Oil weights fine, assuming thats what the builder recommended for the break in. A lighter dual-weight oil would burn more oil during the engine/oil warm up period.


Why would you need a magnet on the filter? Unless your filter is cheap crap that'll tear before the bypass operates, I don't see a point. Maybe in the by-pass it would make a little sense. The screen will get the big bit's and the filter the smaller stuff. It'd be nice if there was a dummy light "oil by pass open" so you know when the filters done.

Huntingtruckcletus

I've heard that a oil filter magnet is supposed to be catch all the smaller metal flakes that can pass through a filter. I don't know about it though because of a couple reasons. One is that metal fragments that pass through an oil filter shouldn't be big enough to hurt anything should they? Reason 2 is wouldn't this possibly clog the filter. I don't know much about them a friend just suggested that I get one an I was wondering if anyone knew about them

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

I have seen fine metal clog up lifters before, but in that case it was a filter failure. And it was aluminium so a magnet wouldn't have caught it anyway. And of course proper oil changes would have caught the filter sooner, or the AL powder.

A very important part of the oil change is the inspection, which doesn't happen at the local lube shop with the direct to "big-ass" tank over the head draining they use.


So no, no filter magnet, if it gets that far it's going to wind up in the filter and if it's small enough to pass the filter you probably can't get a strong enough magnet to pull that micron sized bit of metal thru the oil down there anyway.

BamaYota1

What type of wire did you end up running? It has to be a shielded wire.

Huntingtruckcletus

I used coax and grounded it to the ecu. upon further inspection I found that my knock sensor looked like it had been broke into two peices and the po had put it back together with some jb weld. i took it off and sure enough it had. It was hard to tell and my brother didnt notice it when he took it out of the old motor to put in the new one. oh well i guess these things happen. im waiting on the new one. This broken sensor was probably the problem the reason the po took out the original wire.

Huntingtruckcletus

Yeah I was wondering about this. Thats the reason I figured i'd ask before i waisted money on something that was Pointless. I never take a vehicle to the shop to change oil. In my opinion thats kind of lazy and they screw up sometimes. anyone can chance oil in less then 15 mins and when I do it i Know that I have the right oil and filter and that they are all being changed.

BamaYota1

Did you get your new knock sensor installed yet?

Huntingtruckcletus

No, not yet. There was a problem with shipping it's supposed to be here tomorrow though

Huntingtruckcletus

Got my new to me knock sensor in. I screwed it in an plugged it up. No more cel. After a little timing change I got it running really good! I noticed that sometimes when I stop or crank it, it will idle high.. Like 1700 Rpms and then I can drive it or kill it an it will sometimes go back to 950 Rpms. I don't understand why cause it runs great. Anyone had a problem like this?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Bad temp reading, cause by bad wiring dirty or bad sensors. Or sticky something at the intake.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The dashpot or in the dashpot area, sometimes can hold the throttle open. I would give that area a good looking over and see if it isnt letting the throttle come to its complete resting position.

BamaYota1

Is this happening only when the motor is cold, or after it has been running for a while? If it is when the motor is coldish, it may very well be the cold start injector finally getting to do its job. When cold, the motor will hover around 1700-2000rpm until it had reached operating temperature. If you shut it off for more than a few minutes, it will start the process again. The motor should gradually slow down as it warms up and go to your preset idle. Btw, your truck should idle around 750 if it is a manual, so you may want to adjust now that you have correct timing.

In case you hadn't figured it out, your motor is now attempting to run off its sensors since it is now getting into closed loop mode. You may have a few more parts to adjust/inspect/clean/replace, but by the time you are through, you will finally have the motor right.

Huntingtruckcletus

I haven't really completely paid attention to it it's only when it's cold. But I have defiantly noticed that its running more off the sensors then ever. Probably because when I got it there was only 4 plugged in. I'm gonna idle it down when I get a chance. I'm gonna clean my o2 sensor to to help it get a better reading. Any suggestions on how I should clean it? Water? Carb cleaner? Parts cleaner?
Also it turns out that I wasn't burning as much oil as I thought. After closer inspection I found an oil leak on the back of my motor where a bolt wasn't tightened up enough. I tightened it up an no more leak! I changed the oil at 500 miles like the people asked that I bought it from requested!

BamaYota1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-DENSO-OE...item589b309848

You should just buy a new one if you haven't ever changed it. $40 bucks and it will make a world of difference if yours is getting old and slow. This is the exact one I bought, and it works like a champ. My only issue is that I had to take a drill bit and drill just a little bit of the inner bung to make it sit right. I'm talking less than an 1/8". It didn't want to seal exactly right, but I have an aftermarket pipe. It would most likely go in correctly for everyone else.

Huntingtruckcletus

We'll I bought it an the previous owner had just had the exhaust done an the header put on. I haven't looked at the o2 sensor so I would figure that a new one would be installed with the new exhaust. I was just gonna clean it because it should of been running rich without the knock sensor plugged in right? I don't think it actually needs to be done but I want to just in case. What do you think?

Huntingtruckcletus

So today I went out an pulled my o2 sensor expecting to find it covered in un burnt oil and soot. It was actually really clean looking compared to what I was thinking. It looked like it had just changed color from heat to like a reddish color. Still debating on changing it but I think I'm gonna put it off to get some other much needed repairs done.

BamaYota1

Good to hear you finally had some good luck. If it isn't clogged up and it looks ok, you are probably ok. You can always test it per the FSM, but the worst that could happen if it is getting old is you won't have perfect air to fuel ratio. Not a big deal at this point. I would like to know how big of an increase in fuel mileage you get with the knock sensor in place and functioning. I bet it's quite a bit better.

Huntingtruckcletus

I was getting about 15 before but after putting in a knock sensor and adjusting adjusting my idle I'm hoping to get quite a bit more. I got a little more work to do before I can see how much mileage I'm getting though.
I just went outside an replaced a fuel line and I undone some water hoses. I got it all back together an I had a surging idle. I burped the cooling system an it went away. Before I was sometimes idling around 1700 Rpms. Now at random it kicks up to 1700 Rpms An surges. I'm thinking this is the water hose going to the bottom of the intake stopping up? Any other ideas on what it could be?

BamaYota1

That would be your idle air control. They get hunker up and stick. You can take it apart and clean it with some carb cleaner. You will have to take the throttle body off. Get the gaskets for both at the parts house. Should be about 5.00 for both. Be careful not to spray cleaner onto tps or the little actuator motor for iacv.

Should cure both your problems.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

BamaYota1..You have some great tips. I can usually figure out the major things but these little gremlins that can come up can be a bear and over my head. Great advise and that is a sharp truck in your avatar.