davefrankman

The Truck exhibits the same symptoms whether the tps is plugged in or not. However, I have checked the tps with a multimeter and it fails on the E2 IDL test (test 3 on this site http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#Introduction)

By the way, I never did anything with the TPS or the air flow meter. Replacing the chain did not require it.

thook

1) You've advanced the timing too far. It should 5*btdc....where you had it set before. You may never get the idle set correctly with it that far.

2) You cannot adjust the timing correctly without jumping the terminals. That bypasses the ECU (which controls timing) and puts it at base timing....from where you set your timing. The ECU then will advance it from that point as necessary for driving conditions.

So, if the truck runs the same whether or not it is plugged in it does mean you have a problem with the TPS....either adjustment or it's bad. And if you tested it and are unable to get adjusted correctly, then it's just plain bad. Get a new one. You'll be unable to set your base timing correctly without it. OEM is expensive, but I just read someone was able to get an aftermarket at O'Reilly for $90....a bit cheaper and worked fine for him. Unless, you want to take a gamble and can find a used OEM one on ebay for a better price. The fellow mentioned did and it lasted him for 18 months.

When you get a new one, post back and we can go from there. Chances are good the TPS has been your problem.

BTW, in the first post you said you adjusted the timing. When you do that ...like I said...you have to jump the terminals. You were getting a good connection if the CEL flashed, but did the idle drop at that point? If not, the TPS was bad (or out of adjustment) from the get go and were never able to correctly set the timing. Which in turn would cause problems with your idle.

davefrankman

My check engine light has been on with the oxygen sensor error code. I think that is why I was having a hard time getting it to flash correctly. Can I still set the timing with the other error code still stored?

In the mean time, I will see if I can adjust the TPS.

What is the OEM?

Thanks a lot for your help.

SC2WD

OEM means Original Equipment Manufacturer, as opposed to after-market manufacturer such as 4x4 HardcoreFanatics.com. OEM means "get it from the dealer"

davefrankman

I am having a very difficult time adjusting the tps. The multimeter is jumping around a lot. Is this a symptom of a bad one? I am also getting a 13 and a 41 check engine code. Are they both related to the tps?

Here are the codes

13

--DISTRIBUTOR/DISTRIBUTOR CIRCUIT

--ECU

41

--TPS SENSOR

--TPS SIGNAL/CIRCUIT

--ECU

84sr5yoty

Yep, that's a sure sign that the TPS is dead.

davefrankman

Thanks. That gives me confidence that I did not just spend 95 dollars for at Autozone for nothing.

thook

$95? On what? An ohm meter? What kind of meter did you buy? A golden one? lol I'm not trying to be flip, but there are much cheaper meters available. You could take it back if you still have the receipt, get a cheaper one, and recoup some cash. I don't know...may be more trouble for you, but I would. Then, you'd have money for a new TPS.
Everyone is going to tell you to go OEM/Toyota on this, but unless you have the money I would encourage you to try the one from O'Reilly....or if Autozone has one. With a receipt and warranty, you could hook the new one in and see if it makes a difference. If not, take it back, tell them it doesn't work and get your money back. If it does make a difference, either run with it or...again.. take it back and then get an OEM. (However, edshred...on the forum here.. has had luck with an O'Reilly TPS.) If the O'Reilly doesn't last long....again...you still have a warranty. You do not have that luxury with Toyota. Once you hook it up, it's yours. If the OEM turns out to be bad upon purchase (unlikely), they will exchange it, but it's not definite that your TPS is even bad, yet. And throwing OEM parts at it before it's definite gets expensive real quick. Just my perspective....

The meter jumping around may not be from a bad TPS. I say that because I've been through this before. Depends on your answer to the first questions above. Also, does the meter jump around when testing ALL of the terminals or just the one in question?

The code 41 may be from your unhooking it or just a bad connection. Did you clear the computer after you unhooked the TPS and reconnected it? You have to unhook the battery or pull the EFI fuse for several minutes for it to clear. And the 13 could be a bad connection as well....like bad wiring and such. Regardless, stored codes won't have any effect on the timing procedure. Only the fact that the related problems exist. In other words, you can fix the problems and set the timing even if you hadn't cleared the computer of the related codes.

Is there any way for you to get pictures of the motor and wiring?

davefrankman

Here is a picture of the truck engine. Let me know if you want me to give you a more specific picture. The $95 was for a new TPS. I already had a multimeter. I cleared the computer yesterday and it came back with code 51. Now there are no codes stored and it simply blinks.

davefrankman

I should also probably describe the current behavior of the engine. I simply turns over and revs up, then dies out. It has not idled since I was first adjusting the timing.

davefrankman

Here is a better look at the intake.

n4ynu1010

I got my TPS from Advance for $60 and it was a Denso , thats OEM manufacturer

SCYOTA

Maybe your idle is just set to low now because you accidently turned it all the way in. Try backing out your idle screw a lot and see if it runs.

n4ynu1010

Thats a good suggestion , if you have adj'ed it then re-adj

davefrankman

I thought that might be the case. I turned the screw half a turn until it had no threads left. The engine would rev higher each time, but it always died after a second or 2.

n4ynu1010

You need to verify the essentails , gas , spark and timing , if you have it running just for short periods then I guess I would make sure I had no vacum leaks , PCV Hooked up , oil cap on , spark timing right , and fuel pressure and of course spark and make sure the VAFM is plugged in and door is not stuck inside.

davefrankman

Sorry, I am not so informed on the acronyms. PCV? VAFM? Is that the volumetric flow meter? The air flow meter is plugged in. If by door you mean throttle, it opens and closes. If the door you refer to is somewhere else I would certainly like to know about it. I also cleaned all the vacuum hoses and the throttle with carb cleaner. I was unable to get the motor running long enough to get it up to speed for the timing. I did verify that it was at about 11 o'clock at tdc. I also had someone turn the engine over and I adjusted the timing as best I could by rotating the distributor before the engine died.

How do I check the fuel pressure?
I can smell fuel in the intake. When the engine runs it smells a lot like exhaust in my garage. I checked for spark by removing each plug wire and arcing to the block with it. What other suggestions do you have for me?

langzaiguy

Are you certain that the spark is correctly distributed (wires in right order)?

davefrankman

I am certain that the plugs are in the right order. I also opened the air filter. There is a door on the underside of the cover. It is closed, but it moves freely when I press on it.

langzaiguy

Yeah I guess it wouldn't be able to rev if the wires were hooked up wrong. Does it die on its way up the RPMs or on the way down? How does the engine sound?