1993 4runner back glass problems .....
#3
Worked fine when I left work up and down then I get home turn vehicle off then decide to see if it still works and done again........you can watch amp gauge while your moving switch to up position and the amps fall,but try to get window down and gauge never moves unless class moves......
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
You have an amp guage and it registers the movement of the glass, but doesn't register a draw when the glass refuses to move, I read that correctly?
Can't be a stuck motor, one part down about 4-5 to go. 4 switchs and a relay, not counting plugs and wires..
Suggest you start with the switch in the front seat since it's the easiest to get to. Verify it has conductivity when you move it to both up and down positions. If not take it apart and clean the contacts or source another one.
Can't be a stuck motor, one part down about 4-5 to go. 4 switchs and a relay, not counting plugs and wires..
Suggest you start with the switch in the front seat since it's the easiest to get to. Verify it has conductivity when you move it to both up and down positions. If not take it apart and clean the contacts or source another one.
#5
Amp / volts gauge is what I was talking about it will move when u put switch in up position when it's not working is correct, it also will not work with key when it want work with switch.....Now you might try 20mins later and it will work fine again.......
#6
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
We have failure to communicate
Well if it shows the power drop it's maybe a bound up motor/mechanisim, need to clean and lube the tracks, "regulator" (silly/fancy name for lever mechanisim), and maybe the gear box on the motor and the motor it's self.
There are a few threads here on swaping out that motor for one from a rear drivers side power window of a passenger car. Sorry don't recall late 90's camry maybe..
And since you have to open the tail gate up todo that while you're in there clean and put fresh di-electric grease on the plugs and make sure the plugs are good and tight. Also wouldn't hurt to check the wires are intact where they run thru the body gromets.
Well if it shows the power drop it's maybe a bound up motor/mechanisim, need to clean and lube the tracks, "regulator" (silly/fancy name for lever mechanisim), and maybe the gear box on the motor and the motor it's self.
There are a few threads here on swaping out that motor for one from a rear drivers side power window of a passenger car. Sorry don't recall late 90's camry maybe..
And since you have to open the tail gate up todo that while you're in there clean and put fresh di-electric grease on the plugs and make sure the plugs are good and tight. Also wouldn't hurt to check the wires are intact where they run thru the body gromets.
#7
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
I think you mean voltmeter I have never seen a amp meter in a factory Toyota gauge.
Then I don`t get out much.
Could be one of those safety switches sticking
might be the regulator needs to be lubed along with the rubber sprayed with silicone .
pull it apart check it out
Then I don`t get out much.
Could be one of those safety switches sticking
might be the regulator needs to be lubed along with the rubber sprayed with silicone .
pull it apart check it out
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#9
The relay component is in the drivers side rear pannel next to the compartment and taillight. (Normaly green in color but may be brown (4x5x1 in size))
Easyer to replace if you can find one.
I have refreshed 3 of them for my self and friends by swapping the internal relays around since there is a unused set on the unit. (Yes it does require soldering)
Easyer to replace if you can find one.
I have refreshed 3 of them for my self and friends by swapping the internal relays around since there is a unused set on the unit. (Yes it does require soldering)
Last edited by Punchy; 04-04-2013 at 07:42 AM.
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