pyramid

Hey guys,


I am trying to get my truck squared away before I move from California to Florida.

I have a lot to tow, so the truck needs to be in top shape before I leave.

So I had my fuel injectors cleaned after a 3 cyl misfire. Drove off the lot with perfect performance, until a few days later I could feel the injectors starting to clog again and performance dropping / stumbling out of first gear.

I'm assuming the issue is either scaling in the tank or that the filter is disentegrating and throwing bits through the line.

I've had the truck for about 2 months, and I know before I got it it was sitting for a while, so theres a chance gas sat in the filter or gas tank for an extended amount of time.



Went to replace my fuel filter, and was loosening it without much torque, started spilling out gas as normal, then all of a sudden the entire thing seized up and I couldnt loosen or tighten it. It is stuck in a spot where its loose and spraying gas.

The nut on the line toward the gas tank stripped out, and I was able to break it free with locking pliers. However, it looks like its spinning in place and isn't going anywhere.

I'm at the point where I think I have to cut the line, replace the filter, and replace the line.

I haven't replaced the line before, so I was hoping someone could point me to a tutorial or help me out here.



Thanks

DJ99

Mine was not easy to replace back when either. I would probably do something like replace where the filter was with a hard line. Then put an inline filter of some kind in the engine bay in a soft line. It's not a good place there on the frame where it is exposed to the elements.

scope103

Hey, he's going to Florida. The elements (salt) will be everywhere, not just under the truck.

The flare nuts are brass, and not really strong, so it is not too difficult to wreck one. There are repair kits available (Dorman, available at O'Reilly's and everywhere else). Personally, I would prefer replacing the line back to the next connector. Autozone carries pre-made lines in various lengths with the flare nuts (at least in 3/16" for brake line). They also sell rolls of steel line and and will loan you a flaring tool and a tubing bender.

pyramid

Hey Scope,

Thanks for your reply.

I've read a lot of your posts on previous threads that have been really, really, helpful.

Would happen to know what the next connector back toward the gas tank would be? I thought it was just one line all the way back to the gas tank? What's the best way to do this?

scope103

I don't know.

Wyoming9 (I think) advises AGAINST trying to put a double crimp in the existing line (which you might do if you wanted to just plumb in a short patch), because he (she?) found that the line gets too brittle with age. Still, you might find that you need to hook up more than one pre-formed line to get enough length to get all the way back to the tank. Or borrow the flare tool from Autozone and use a coil of line.

Starts with determining the size of line you need; I never measured it myself.

pyramid

How difficult is it to replace the entire line? Does the gas tank have to be dropped or drained? Has anyone had to replace this line before?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

If this truck lived most of it`s life in California getting the line loose of the fuel tank bracket might go easy.

Not like here in eastern Pa where they just snap off compounding the problem

Much easier to unbolt the bed take the tail light harness off disconnect the fuel filler neck

slide the bed back a foot or two .

Spray everything with the penetrating spray of your choice.

Depending just how you fix this if your replacing the fuel filter remember to make sure to get one able to handle the fuel injection pressure

Fast easy fix if you can find someone to get you a good short section of steel line with the correct flare nut.( I have been unable to just locate these nuts)

A short section of Fuel Injection line(@$7.00/ft) and fuel injection clamps not to be confused with just regular fuel line.

Like anything rubber it will break down after few years and need replaced.

pyramid

Thanks for your reply Wyoming,

I located this line on Ebay.. I cant find the partsfische for this component. This looks like it might be it, but im not under my truck to see it right now.

Does this look like the right replacement?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/W0133-1741729-OES-Genuine-Fuel-Line-/301681981103?fits=Make%3AToyota%7CModel%3A4Runner&hash=item463da5b6af&vxp=mtr

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

No clue I never had a 3.0

smarks

I had the same thing happen to me on my '91 Extended cab 3.0 as I used a normal wrench to remove the line. Ended up rounding off the edges on the line and had to use locking pliers to remove. I was able to reuse the line but eventually bought a new line from Toyota of Dallas for approx $22. I would suggest utilizing the correct part to replace so that it maintains all of the correct bends and snaps back into the holders along the frame. Just my 2 cents...

lovesdiving

I have a 92 extended cab and found that a shop had cross threaded both nuts on the filter. I replaced both lines and the filter. (Wife's truck)

The rear facing line ends in a soft line at a point above and just aft of the cross member that the tank skid plate bolts to. Follow the line back from the filter and you'll see what I mean. I think it is a 14mm nut. Use one wrench to hold the flexible line fitting and a flare nut wrench on the rigid side. It was a real pain getting it loose and reinstalled as there is not much room up there and your head will be next to the drive shaft to see what you are doing.

The part number is either 77252-35240 or 77251-35660. I got mine from a dealership and those are the numbers on the receipt. Both are Tube, Fuel.
One is forward of the filter and the other is aft. Call a dealership and ask.
One was $43 the other 35.

Hope this helps.