thook

Okay, so it occurred to me, one of the first things I should have suggested was to check your compression and timing. Sorry. Have you done any of that, yet?

mattsmopars

I have not got around to checking the timing, but I did a compession check two cylinders were 115 psi and the other two were right at 110 psi. I thought that was preety good pressure and they are with in the 10% range of each other. So one cylinder is not down alot from the others. I hope to check the timing today. Matt

thook

That's it????!!! No way, dude. The minimum acceptable is 142psi. If 110-115 is an accurate reading.....ie, you're doing it right, it's no wonder you're having such a time of it. And, look no further.....that, my friend, is your problem. You have **** for compression.

Now, you just need to determine if it's the valves or rings. Squirt a little bit of oil in each cylinder and take another reading.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../6compress.pdf

mattsmopars

Wow, i guess I was talking out of school , as I should have looked up the acceptable psi per cylinder for a toyota . I was thinking since they were all close to the same that they were about right. guess that is what I get for doing my own thinking. I will retest them as the manual says and let you know. Thanks, matt

mattsmopars

Thanks for posting that link BTW. I went back out to the garage and did another compression test as the manual states minus the fact that i can not warm the engine up before hand. I am not for sure how much differnece this would make. The last time I did it i did not open up the throttle any I just left it closed so I guess that was the difference. So this time I disconected the cold start and the coil pulled all the plugs and checked the compression with the throttle wide open and all 4 cyclinder and really close together with most right at 145-150 PSI. I think that my injectors are stopped up and not letting my get much fuel after the cold start injector. While I have it running I can spray some starting fluid at the intake of the airbox and it will idle up like it is lean on fuel.
This is the reason that I went into bodywork and was not a mechanic....
Matt

4wd4fun

simplest thing to do would've been just swap the long blocks.
85, 86, ... 93, 94 22r & 22re blocks and heads are the same....
no need to swap 90 ecu and wiring onto the 89 chassis.
creates more problems that aren't needed

thook

You've been drinking too much eggnog, perhaps?.....

thook

It'd make the difference to get an accurate reading, but all things considered, 145-150 is atleast enough to show your compression is good. The readings would be higher were the engine warm. As well, the throttle valve being open means more air can enter the cylinders.....which you can see. More air means higher potential compression. Disabling the CSI just means there's no chance fuel can be injected into the cylinders and affecting readings. Disabling the IG means no combustion can happen, of course, affecting your readings and, certainly, creating an undesirable testing situation. You don't want the motor to start firing, right?

If the coolant sensor is operating properly, it would signal the ECU to enhance fuel enrichment on start up and during the warm up cycle. IF it's not working, then you'd be running lean in those conditions. So, indeed, test the sensor.

mattsmopars

It deffintaly made a difference from my first test. Whaen I opened up the throttle and disabled the CSI. I think that now my compression is O.K.
Like I said at this point I don't think my injectors are opening up much and are starving the engine of fuel.
Can i swap out the injectors and fuel rail with out seperating the intake? I also replaced the coolant temp sensor just in case that was the problem.I think that is probably my next move. Thanks for all of the help and guidance and I will keep you posted.
Matt

thook

Obviously, it made a difference opening the TB and such. I was referring to a difference between a cold and warm engine; the readings will be higher when warm, but you were unable to do that.

No, you can't. You have to pull the upper intake off so the injectors can come out of the lower intake. So, you'll need a new gasket, unfortunately. I wouldn't trust any silicone to hold up under exposure to fuel vapor.

And, you're welcome....

mattsmopars

Well after alot of checking and chasing things, I have finally got the truck to set and run. I pulled the injectors and fuel rail from the original blown engine and had them cleaned. Pulled the ones off the replacement 1990 model engine, and found the problem. The hole in the fuel rail where the injector sets was plugged up with rusty sandy looking crap. I will try to get a few pictures later. Anyway installed the original cleaned up fuel rail and injectors and it seems to run well. THANKS for all of the help!
Matt

mattsmopars

Here is another quick question. I was going to check my timing so I shorted the TE+ and the E+ therminals in the Diag box to see where the timing was.
It makes no difference if they are shorted or not the timing does not move up of down shorted or not. Timing stays the same place and I was thinking it should drop while it was shorted out. PLease let me know what you think might cause this problem. Thanks in advance, Matt

mattsmopars

Back to the original issue that i had. The plugged up fuel injectors and rail. Here are a few pictures showing what was inside the rail where the injectors go in. For everyone viewing pleasure.
Matt

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

test the coil packs inside the distributor per the FSM, I bet one is open or out of spec.

abecedarian

Well, it could be the throttle position sensor is bad or misadjusted- that happens. There are two contacts within it that should drop to less than 2.3Kohm resistance with the throttle near/at closed:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...#TPSAdjustment

It also could be the diagnostic check terminals are shorted out elsewhere making your jumper pointless. With the key off, use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between TE and E+ terminals- you may have some resistance showing (due to the ECU circuitry involved) but you're looking for near 0 ohms.

I doubt it's the hall effect / pickup coil in the distributor. You have only one coil in there and if it were bad, no run.

mattsmopars

I did not have time to check the TPS tonight, But I did check the resistence between the TE and E+ terminals.
I have 25.07 K ohms reading on my ohms meter while checking between them with the key off.
Any idea what that might mean?
Matt