live4soccer7

I have but I think the machining costs will be too much. I don't want to put more than 2k into the motor and if I do a 20r head then I will still want to do all the same upgrades. I will ask the machinist about it though.

Anyone know what the difference between the performance cam and the rv cam is?

live4soccer7

So, I got thinking and am considering a 22rte. What kind of mileage does one of these stock motors go? This would definitely give the added power I'm looking for.

What are some thoughts on this? I currently have a 22r.

myyota

Stay with the 22R, otherwise you will need to buy a computer and wiring harness to run the 22RTE.

myyota

An RV cam put the power output of the engine in the lower rpm range for better towing and hauling power. A performance cam moves the power band higher for more top end power.

camo31_10.50

yep..and as far as I know...the 20R head bolts on without any machining? and you get a double row timing chain.

an RV cam is like Ted's 261* crawler cam..( i believe that would be considered an RV cam)

a performance cam is going to be more like Ted's 270* cam.

i believe it depends on when you want your power to kick in..if you want it just off idle until about 4000rpm, then get the 261* cam or one similar..if you want it to be more like 2500-5500 then get the 268* cam...if you want to open it up when you get on it..like high rpms..then get a cam like the 270*.

correct me if i'm wrong people! it's been a while since i've researched cam's!

and yes it wouldn't be wise to go 22RET..you would likely blow through that $2000 limit lmao

you don't need the aluminum rocker arm set....as your 22r rocker arms should already be aluminum...i believe...

if they aren't then you could get a set from a junkyard motor '85<

if you really want your motor/cam combo to shine, then get LCE's adjustable timing chain gear..and get your cam timing set right.

live4soccer7

"Shine" as in performance wise?

The reason I have the $2000 limit is I will eventually swap a larger motor in the future, so I didn't want to go overboard with this thing, but rather just do a decent build up so I can cruise on the highway hills at highway speeds. lol. If I were going with the 22rte then I don't have much of a problem lifting that budget a little because it would give me more power and would be an engine I would keep in there for a much longer time, so the ecu and wiring harness isn't a problem.

The concern with the 22rte are fuel mileage. I guess the other factor would be reliability, but I could do some upgraded internals to help that out. Just looking for some input on this before I decide which way to go. After that is is just finding parts, I think I can get the 22rte block and head at our local machine shop when I take my engine in.

edit: I'm almost 100% certain you need a decent amount of machining for the 20r head on the 22r.

live4soccer7

So, from the economical standpoint and reliability/longevitiy, I think I'm just going to go with the 22r build with the following:

Rebuild Engine
Performance Cam (better use at high speeds, correct if wrong)
Header
Full exhaust 2.5" (already own)
Pro Flow Muffler (already own)
32/36 weber (already own)
Holly Fuel Regulator
Electric Fan Install

I think I'm going to drop the ported head since the cost is pretty high and I'm not building a racing truck, just don't think the gains would be worth the $$ on that one.

Should I go with O/S valves or no? Not quite sure what the specific effects of this are, if anyone wants to chip in let me know.

live4soccer7

after mulling it over a little more I have thought that I will probably just have the block and head machined and then I will get the parts and install/rebuild it myself. Can't be that hard, I've already torn apart most of the truck and repaired practically everything myself except the actual gears. I do have a couple more questions that I think will solidify my decision one way or another.

On the 22rte, are the efi components the same as a standard 22re? I would guess this with the exception of maybe injectors and ecu. I have noticed that it is tough to find the 22rte items out there. If it is the same then I am one step closer the deciding turbo.

Next, can the tranny/drivetrain handle the 22rte? I would think it would if people are throwing v8's and the 5vzfe in them.

I'm thinking a turbo setup with the megasquirt management system. I believe I can build one of these and it would be a hell of a lot of fun, just have to get the basics, so I can do some research on parts and pricing. Thanks for any help or suggestions.

xxxtreme22r

most of those guys doing the v8 and 3.4 swaps were running the 3.0's which already have the v6/turbo drivetrain. Not to say the 4cyl drivetrain will not support the rte motor though.

if your looking at an economical standpoint, I wouldn't be looking into building the 22rte if you don't already have the truck with it. parts are harder to find and therefore more expensive. You can probably spend just the same amount rebuilding your current motor and using high compression pistons and some other bolt on performance stuff and yield the same amount of power out of the 22r or re.

live4soccer7

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I did a lot of reading last night and other than the standard efi parts (besides the block and head), you need the wiring harness, turbo, exhaust man, ecu management, intercooler, the piping for it, efi distributor and a few sensors.

As far as an economical standpoint on the build, if I am going turbo then I won't be as concerned b/c I know it will have more power and the capability to get more, so I would be able to use this engine down the road instead of swapping in a larger engine in time (that is the original reason for not wanting to spend too much on this rebuild, but if I can keep the 22rte then no swap will be needed at a later date and therefore I can justify spending more $$ on the turbo build).

Any info anyone can provide based on what has been said already about the 22rte would be greatly appreciated.

live4soccer7

Ok, so I did some more research and did find that the 20r head is a direct bolt on for the older 22r blocks and it ended in 84 sometime.

Now the question is, is mine one of the ones that I can do that with? I don't have the "LAZERED" block, so that is a start. Is there another check or two that I can do in order to confirm that the 20r head will bolt right on?

I will continue to search for info on this as well and post up anything that I find.

myyota

The over sized valves will help in giving you a little more power, because they can flow more air/fuel, so if you don`t get the ported head then go with the over sized valves instead.

live4soccer7

So many freakin options, it is crazy. I think the oversized valves would be a much cheaper option.

edit: i haven't found any other information on identifying marks of an early 22r engine besides the "lazer" mark and the round ports, which I have both. Is it safe to say I can bolt on the 20r head w/o additional machining?

I have read to use the 22r valves on the 20r head, aluminum rocker arms, (not sure about the rocker assembly).

Does anyone know or can suggest a good cam setup for a 22r/20r dd (shouldn't be towing anything) or do the same things apply as with the cams I was looking at for the 22r setup, but just get a 20r cam?


If someone has any light on this question, I would be much interested. Is the 22r/20r hybrid better than a 22re? Obviously either w/o any major upgrades beyond what makes them.

xxxtreme22r

your correct, if the block is <86 then you can bolt the 20r head on it, however, if the block is 84-85 then your talking you have to convert to the dual row timing chain. 81-83 blocks were dual timing chain already so no conversion there is necc.

um turbo = low compression pistons. it's not as simple as just bolting the turbo stuff, ecu etc etc, yur talking basically an entire rebuild of the motor. I don't know if the 22rte has the same injectors as the standard 22r and I highly doubt it has the same ECU.

I hope your not planning on doing the 20/22r hybrid in addition to the turbo, cus yur not gonna find an efi intake for the 20r head.

live4soccer7

ha ha.... No not the 20r/22r turboed. That's not gonna happen. lol.

The options were:

22re conversion (would need all efi stuff)
20r/22r setup (just need intake, dual row chain, 20r head and whatever else I wanted upgraded)
build the current 22r (just need upgraded parts)
22rte (need 22rte block/head and additional turbo parts along with efi components)

I am getting a rebuild done anyways, so I wanted to take the best route.

I am about 100% certain on the 22r/20r setup with a 32/36 carb. What I need to figure are the rest of the details.

Reasons for this setup:

Much cheaper
good power gains
already have 32/36 carb
have the correct block for it already
don't need to source many parts for it to happen
much quicker build time and will be up and running much faster


Can anyone help out with parts for this setup?

I have heard great things about this cam:
http://www.iskycams.com/onlinecatalog.html

Need a 20r head (I know there are many different variations with the setups on the outside, PS mounting etc..)

Can use the same exhaust headers

I have heard to use the aluminum rocker arms

Don't know about the same rocker assembly though.

Don't know about the valves and springs either.

Same goes with the pistons, not quite sure.

I have heard the 84 "non-lazered" blocks have the timing chain cover that can accommodate the dual chain setup - any input? I know mine has a single chain currently.

Have also been recommended to this ignition system:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/jacobs-pefo...estid=11187908

abeD85flatbed

I've been running a 20r head conversion for the past 9 years. The single row timing chain will hold up, but I would recommend the double. The 22r valves in the 20r head works but with a higher compression and a cam you will need to run a set of Isky helper springs inside the stockers to keep from frying the valve train. I run a Clay smith midrange cam, and the torque is unreal. The 20r head has a taller deck height than the 22r and will have to be machined down to the same specs to fit. The power steering bracket should bolt to the 20r head without any modification. Use a flat top piston to clear the valves, and the stock rocker arm assembly, as long as it is still in spec, will work fine.
I have a spare stock 20r intake if your anywhere near Utah.

live4soccer7

Thanks for the info man. I've actually just found an engine that I'm going to take a look at that was rebuilt about 10k ago with the hybrid setup and all the goodies for a great price. Way less than looking for my own setup and it will be a quick swap, which is what I'm looking for. I can adjust it how I like once I get the engine. I'll let you all know how it works out, I'm pretty stoked about this.

live4soccer7

So i went and picked up the engine today. I heard it run in the guys truck before hand and it sounded healthy and not a drop of oil on the thing. Here is what the motor is:

Early 22r Block
20R Head
20r Intake
Mounting Points for the accessory items are on the head
Performance cam, somewhere in the 270's
Weber Carb
Dual timing chain setup
Bored .040" over
It was rebuilt about 10k ago

Paid 700 for it.

Items I am looking at getting:

Tri-y header
adjustable dual cam sprocket
upgraded ignition system
Removal of fan and added electric fan

Maybe later down the road I will get the head ported and polished along with larger valves and a different cam (not sure on what valves are currently in it)

live4soccer7

Here are a couple photos of the engine I got the other day. I have cleaned it up quite a bit, but not too bad for $700.


Picture 1

Picture 2

xxxtreme22r

Just to make it easier to see.