re-gearing
#1
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re-gearing
I have a 85 4runner and it has 33s. I am planning to regear as many have advised, but first want to get my basics right. Can you help? I know that it drives sluggish and has poor gas mileage.
1. When you say re-gear, do you mean change gear ratios in the axles?
2. Where can I find the stock gear ratio for my truck? I googled and found this link:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/parts/
Now it lists 3.90, 4.10, 4.30, 4.38 for rear axle and says 3.9 and 4.38 don't apply to my truck how can I tell which one out of 4.1 and 4.3 is mine?
3. The last owner said that it was not regeared but he was not the original owner. How can you tell if it has stock gears?
4. How difficult is it to do it yourself. Of course it depends on my ability, I don't haev experience with transmissions or axles, but the local shop quoted me almost 600 per axle (labor plus parts). I cannot spend that much and would like to try myself if it is possible.
5. Can I do just the rear and do front later? What are the suggested ratios for front and rear?
I will probably have more questions after I get answers to these basic ones. Thanks a lot for your time!
1. When you say re-gear, do you mean change gear ratios in the axles?
2. Where can I find the stock gear ratio for my truck? I googled and found this link:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/parts/
Now it lists 3.90, 4.10, 4.30, 4.38 for rear axle and says 3.9 and 4.38 don't apply to my truck how can I tell which one out of 4.1 and 4.3 is mine?
3. The last owner said that it was not regeared but he was not the original owner. How can you tell if it has stock gears?
4. How difficult is it to do it yourself. Of course it depends on my ability, I don't haev experience with transmissions or axles, but the local shop quoted me almost 600 per axle (labor plus parts). I cannot spend that much and would like to try myself if it is possible.
5. Can I do just the rear and do front later? What are the suggested ratios for front and rear?
I will probably have more questions after I get answers to these basic ones. Thanks a lot for your time!
#2
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2. Where can I find the stock gear ratio for my truck? I googled and found this link:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/parts/
Now it lists 3.90, 4.10, 4.30, 4.38 for rear axle and says 3.9 and 4.38 don't apply to my truck how can I tell which one out of 4.1 and 4.3 is mine?
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/parts/
Now it lists 3.90, 4.10, 4.30, 4.38 for rear axle and says 3.9 and 4.38 don't apply to my truck how can I tell which one out of 4.1 and 4.3 is mine?
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ToyVIN.shtml
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_TechI...oDetermination
4. How difficult is it to do it yourself. Of course it depends on my ability, I don't haev experience with transmissions or axles, but the local shop quoted me almost 600 per axle (labor plus parts). I cannot spend that much and would like to try myself if it is possible.
- http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/gear_setup/
Only if you never use 4WD. Why? Different ratios = different wheel speeds front/rear in 4WD. Assuming same size tires on both axles, not a good idea to drive like that!
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1. yes, the ring and pinion
2. i cant remeber fro sure at the moment but i believe there are tags bolted to the third member that contain the gear ratio
3. look for tell-tale signs that the rearend has been worked on (ie missing tags, bolts, clean nuts that should be dirty
4.if you have the required tools to do it right (or like to guess) than you might be able to do it.... there are some tolerances that require inch lbs torque wrench and a dial indicator ( some ppl set these by feel but i wouldnt) a shop doing it would be worth the price of new gears if you mess up
5. dont use 4wd and you can do the rear first.........
without knowing auto or manual or the type of driving you do.......4.88 would be what i would recomend for a highway/daily driver, keeps your revs down on the highway at cruise, also these gears have a larger pinion which is stronger than the 5.29's so ppl use these and a t-case reducer to go slow.....5.29's i run personally i drive my truck daily to and from work and on wkends 60+miles one way.....i have 33's and im usuall around 3-3250 rpm around 60-70mph (My speedo dont work)..........Would not recomend at all 5.71 ratio....
6. search this msg board......lots of ppl here and there are lots of combinations so jst read the backboards or do a search
and damn 4crawler has the hookup on links
2. i cant remeber fro sure at the moment but i believe there are tags bolted to the third member that contain the gear ratio
3. look for tell-tale signs that the rearend has been worked on (ie missing tags, bolts, clean nuts that should be dirty
4.if you have the required tools to do it right (or like to guess) than you might be able to do it.... there are some tolerances that require inch lbs torque wrench and a dial indicator ( some ppl set these by feel but i wouldnt) a shop doing it would be worth the price of new gears if you mess up
5. dont use 4wd and you can do the rear first.........
without knowing auto or manual or the type of driving you do.......4.88 would be what i would recomend for a highway/daily driver, keeps your revs down on the highway at cruise, also these gears have a larger pinion which is stronger than the 5.29's so ppl use these and a t-case reducer to go slow.....5.29's i run personally i drive my truck daily to and from work and on wkends 60+miles one way.....i have 33's and im usuall around 3-3250 rpm around 60-70mph (My speedo dont work)..........Would not recomend at all 5.71 ratio....
6. search this msg board......lots of ppl here and there are lots of combinations so jst read the backboards or do a search
and damn 4crawler has the hookup on links
Last edited by bleakhorizon; 01-04-2008 at 11:28 AM.
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4Crawler gave you excellent answers but I can't help elaborating a bit (along with making some assumptions)
You're welcome.
I have a 85 4runner and it has 33s. I am planning to regear as many have advised, but first want to get my basics right. Can you help? I know that it drives sluggish and has poor gas mileage.
1. When you say re-gear, do you mean change gear ratios in the axles? Yes. It means to change the ring and pinion gears.
2. Where can I find the stock gear ratio for my truck? I googled and found this link: It's 4.10 if it's manual.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/parts/
Now it lists 3.90, 4.10, 4.30, 4.38 for rear axle and says 3.9 and 4.38 don't apply to my truck how can I tell which one out of 4.1 and 4.3 is mine?
3. The last owner said that it was not regeared but he was not the original owner. How can you tell if it has stock gears? If it's sluggish then I'm guessing that it wasn't.
4. How difficult is it to do it yourself. Of course it depends on my ability, I don't haev experience with transmissions or axles, but the local shop quoted me almost 600 per axle (labor plus parts). I cannot spend that much and would like to try myself if it is possible. Difficult but not impossible. Unfortunately the consequenses of doing it wrong are severe.
5. Can I do just the rear and do front later? What are the suggested ratios for front and rear? No. No. No. and, let me think, NO!
I will probably have more questions after I get answers to these basic ones. Thanks a lot for your time!
1. When you say re-gear, do you mean change gear ratios in the axles? Yes. It means to change the ring and pinion gears.
2. Where can I find the stock gear ratio for my truck? I googled and found this link: It's 4.10 if it's manual.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/parts/
Now it lists 3.90, 4.10, 4.30, 4.38 for rear axle and says 3.9 and 4.38 don't apply to my truck how can I tell which one out of 4.1 and 4.3 is mine?
3. The last owner said that it was not regeared but he was not the original owner. How can you tell if it has stock gears? If it's sluggish then I'm guessing that it wasn't.
4. How difficult is it to do it yourself. Of course it depends on my ability, I don't haev experience with transmissions or axles, but the local shop quoted me almost 600 per axle (labor plus parts). I cannot spend that much and would like to try myself if it is possible. Difficult but not impossible. Unfortunately the consequenses of doing it wrong are severe.
5. Can I do just the rear and do front later? What are the suggested ratios for front and rear? No. No. No. and, let me think, NO!
I will probably have more questions after I get answers to these basic ones. Thanks a lot for your time!
#6
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You can do them front and rear at separate times, but you will not be able to use 4wd in the mean time, I had no front drive shaft (still don't really, all the material is laying in my shop, and hasn't been put together) so it was of no concern to me doing them a month or two apart as money allowed. Find someone in your area that isn't a shop to do the work setting them up, the guy that did mine does the set up for $75 bucks if you supply the ring and pinion.
#7
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Thanks everyone, I am still trying to digest the information you guys supplied but have a feeling will have to ask someone to do this for me. Any one near Columbus Ohio area knows a mechanic who can do this for me? The only place I know is Trails West and like I said they said it will cost ~ 600 per axle.
Also, where can I buy the parts (ring and pinion)?
Thanks!
Also, where can I buy the parts (ring and pinion)?
Thanks!
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There are lots of places on the internet. Just google toyota ring and pinion. Yukon gears have a good reputation. Here are a couple of links in case you're having trouble:
http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/pr...products_id=43
http://www.ringpinion.biz/
http://www.marlincrawler.com/
You will need a ring and pinion set per differential and you will also need a set-up kit per differential.
Have fun!
http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/pr...products_id=43
http://www.ringpinion.biz/
http://www.marlincrawler.com/
You will need a ring and pinion set per differential and you will also need a set-up kit per differential.
Have fun!
Last edited by Wardamneagle; 01-07-2008 at 01:45 AM. Reason: Added information
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I also plan to regear in the future but instead of starting a new thread I will just add to this one. My question is whether it would work to just regear the transfer case and not the axles. I talked to a guy who had an old toyota rock crawler and he said that he put higher gears int he axles and made up for it wit tcase gears ( he dad dual t-cases) becasue the higher gear ring a pinions were stronger and less likely to break. The other reason I was thinking about this is becasue I drive quite a bit on the street and want to still be able to cruise pretty well but I want to be able to go super low for off roading. I am thinking I will prolly need a combination. I was thinking about going to 4:88 or so and running 33s maybe 35s in the future and then doing the tcase so when I put it in low range it is real low. Currently for most sticky spots even in 4 low I need first gear to get the power necessary. The turbo I added and sds should give me some more juice which will prolly make this a bit better but I will have to test that when I finish the turbo stuff. Any info would be appreciated.
#10
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You can change the low range gears in the Toyota t-case, like from the stock 2.28:1 down to 4.0, 4.7 or 5.0:1. You can't change the high range gears in the Toyota t-case. Why? Because there are no gears in high range to change. It is just a direct coupling of input to output shaft, 1:1. Some vehicles have t-cases that have gears for high range (Samurai, Land Rover to name two) and these can be changed for over or under drive situations.
So you can improve off-road performance with lower t-case gears, but at some point, you may need to drive on the road and that is where the axle gears come into play. But 4.88s and 33"/35" tires is a good combination. I run 4.88s with both those size tires with my 22RE and it is fine.
So you can improve off-road performance with lower t-case gears, but at some point, you may need to drive on the road and that is where the axle gears come into play. But 4.88s and 33"/35" tires is a good combination. I run 4.88s with both those size tires with my 22RE and it is fine.
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You can change the low range gears in the Toyota t-case, like from the stock 2.28:1 down to 4.0, 4.7 or 5.0:1. You can't change the high range gears in the Toyota t-case. Why? Because there are no gears in high range to change. It is just a direct coupling of input to output shaft, 1:1. Some vehicles have t-cases that have gears for high range (Samurai, Land Rover to name two) and these can be changed for over or under drive situations.
So you can improve off-road performance with lower t-case gears, but at some point, you may need to drive on the road and that is where the axle gears come into play. But 4.88s and 33"/35" tires is a good combination. I run 4.88s with both those size tires with my 22RE and it is fine.
So you can improve off-road performance with lower t-case gears, but at some point, you may need to drive on the road and that is where the axle gears come into play. But 4.88s and 33"/35" tires is a good combination. I run 4.88s with both those size tires with my 22RE and it is fine.
Rock on man. Thanks for the input. Any advice on locker for the front. Was thinking about a detroit true trac or something similar
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That is basically what I have in the rear. There are several of thes out there. The lock right, EZ locker etc. The one I have is the Quick lock by Genuine gear. I don't think I would want that in the front of my truck. Yes it is cheap but I want something that compesates better for stearing. That is why I am thinking about the true trac from detroit locker.
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OK, I finally bought the Yukon gears and also the kit they sell for this 4 cylinder truck. I also found a mechanic who would do it, but we are stuck at this moment because he does not have the flange tool used to take the third member out (shown in http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/gear_setup/). I know in the description he said it is a home made tool, but can we buy this tool from some where?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#16
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I have become an expert in the last month at the differential R&R I have had mine in and out 4-5 times with a bad gear cut problem.
No special tool is needed, just put it on some good stands,remove wheels and drain gear lube, pull the driveshaft from yoke 14mm, and while there remove the differential nuts 12mm, remove backing plate nuts 14mm ( these are the four nuts on the backside of the breaks near the break bleader )disconnect brake cable and brake lines 10mm, pull each axle and hub out. slide a floor jack under the front of third member near yoke put just a touch of pressure on it to break the third loose take an old towel and creeper under and in front, grab hold lay it on your chest on the towel and slide out. The last time with air tools it was less than 40 minutes to have it out and in the vise.
Good luck and don't let a novice setup your gears. Trust me on this one!
No special tool is needed, just put it on some good stands,remove wheels and drain gear lube, pull the driveshaft from yoke 14mm, and while there remove the differential nuts 12mm, remove backing plate nuts 14mm ( these are the four nuts on the backside of the breaks near the break bleader )disconnect brake cable and brake lines 10mm, pull each axle and hub out. slide a floor jack under the front of third member near yoke put just a touch of pressure on it to break the third loose take an old towel and creeper under and in front, grab hold lay it on your chest on the towel and slide out. The last time with air tools it was less than 40 minutes to have it out and in the vise.
Good luck and don't let a novice setup your gears. Trust me on this one!
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