91toylockedup

hey i bought a 91 toyota, 6 inch lift on 36 inch tires. straght axle, front and rear lockers. it has a rebuilt motor with what i was told 140k. it was origannaly a 22r but was swapped to carb. not sure why? anyways it ran pretty good for two months other then the timing chain was loose/sloppy. i figured i should replace it before it jumps time or somethin. i did the timing just how the manuals i read said. and i had a pretty darn good mechanic help me. i put it to tcd the shafts at 12 and 6 with the colored links matching them at 12o clock and 6. tdc.. i put it all together and it wont fire. the rotar right on #1 plug in cap. wont fire. tried doing the timeing a couple times. wont fire. getting frustrated with it. got good spark. any ideas or input would be awesome!!!!!

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Timing is off I bet. 22R/RE will not crank if its not almost perfect. I just always get my Toy mechanic to do mine as he has working on them when they were new.

Welcome to Yotatech.

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

If you were 180 out the first time and then corrected then you will have a bent valve most likely. So it won't matter how many times you readjust it, it won't fire. As for what wabit said yes these motors just about have to be dead on to fire to begin with. You have good spark at the rotor, did you make sure that the plug wires are at the right hole, as in did you hook them up to the correct spark plug from the rotor. Hope that helps. I find that usually when I am frusterated it ends up being the simplist things that I over look and don't see when mad. Try taking a break and coming back at it with fresh eyes and light mind. Go over everything that is electrical you moved or touched. If you still cant figure it out repost and I am sure we can help you figure it out.

Elton

wrong section but dont u have to jump the diagnostic port to get the correct timing
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector

91toylockedup

i had a mechanic put the chain on. i just put it back together afterwards. what is the specific timing for this motoor and maybe detailed instructions how to do it. i think im doing it right but maybe there is something we missed. and elton im not sure if mine has that due to being carburated but i will look into it. thanks for your repleys i appreciate it and i will check things out when it gets a little warmer.

91toylockedup

im getting fuel. but it is backfiring out the carb kinda. i think that would mean the timing is off. but i am not to experiened with the timing this is my first time doing the timing chain. i understand it pretty good though i think. its just got me stummped. im alright with mechanics so any advice helps. just try to give details please

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

Not trying to beat a dead horse here but here it goes. There is a dot on the cam shaft sprocket. The sprocket is keyed so it only goes on one way. The dot needs to be on the top side of the sprocket. The crank shaft sproket for the chain also has a dot stamped on it. You need to rotate the crank and make sure that the dot is also in the top most postion in relation to the motor. Putting the dot on top can two things for the crank. Either TDC or BDC. You need to make sure the pistion is TDC "Top Dead Center" which means piston at its closest point to the head on the number one piston. With both dots correctly positioned the timing of the crank to cam shaft is correct. Once the motor is completely put back to gether and you are ready to install the distributor and have not moved the crank or cam shaft, is so make sure to realign them again. With the distributor ready to install place the rotor in as close a postion to the first plug wire. As your facing the cap from the front of the truck it is the closest plug wire on top and towards you. so looking straight on from the drivers side it would be the top left spot. The cam gear is going to move the rotor so play with it. You should be right on if not just a little before the first plug wire on the cap. Tighten the cap down on the dist. Place a small piece of white paint into the notch on the crank pulley. Also a small amount of paint on the timing cover just above the crank pulley on the 0 mark and the 5 degree mark. There should be those and markings including some more out to 8 degrees. Most 22r and RE motors are about 5 to 8 degrees retarded. Your hood on the orginal truck would tell you, but mostly its done by feel and how it sounds. You are going to have to learn how to do that on your own. Get a timing light out and hook it up. With the truck running you should see the white paint marks line up at an idle. adjust the distrubutor back and fourth until you get to that 5 to 8 degree difference and the truck sounds right tighten the dist bolt back down. It the truck won't adjust perfectly than you might be a tooth off on the distributor and may need to adjust it. Some trucks have a disgnostic port that you need to jumper. While this will dial it in for a cold idle to warm motor. My 22re's diag port is on the driver side. I believe that your dist is vacuum advance and if you look around here you should see which vaccum hoses you remove. I think you need to block both off but can't remember. Any how you should get the motor to run even without doing the diagnotics. If you have more questions let me know with a pm and I will try to walk you thru it and send pics if needed. Sorry about the long rely guys.

91toylockedup

hey thanks allot for taking the time to explain it. but thats what i did. i know there is two rotations on the crank and 1 is btc and one is tdc. how do i know witch one it is. whats pistons should be up? thats the only thing i think i could have messed up on. but i tried it a couple different times. and it wont fire. i just bought new plugs so im gonna find tdc and make sure the distributer is right then try it again. i hope it will work. i must be uff time because when i turn it over it pops out the exhaust and out of the carb once in a while? it ran good till i replaced the chain and seems to be getting fuel. my old plugs were pretty wet. ecspecially the two back plugs were really wet.

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

The best way to tell if your at TDC is to pull the #1 spark plug out. The #1 piston is the one closest to the front of the truck. I usually use a screw driver that is long and place it in the hole with my hand on it, and turn the crank with a ratchet and socket. When the screw driver starts to lift stop and pull the screw driver out. Put your flashlight down to the spark plug hole and look for the top of the piston as you slowly continue to turn the crank again. When the piston comes all the way up and starts to go back down stop and nudge it back again to the top. Another method is to put your thumb over the spark plug hole. When the piston is on the compression stroke "pushing up" you will feel air being forced aginst your thumb. When the piston is going back down you will feel your thumb being sucked tight aginst the hole. I hope your crank is not 180 out or on BTC, if so you most likely bent a valve and possibly cracked a piston/ bent a connecting rod when starting it. The 22r and re are interferance motors. Let me know how it goes

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

one other thing I usually do after a tear down is to turn the crank for several rotations by hand. Doing this will tell you if you have any resistance from anything that is not in allignment. The crank should move smoothly all the way around. You would want to remove the spark plugs of course before or you would be pushing through the compressed air inside the cylinder.

91toylockedup

hey i tried it and there is one stiff spot in a rotation its not really bad though i think it is normal. im gonna get it to tdc and then set the dist 1 more time and see if it works if not i guess ill tear it apart and start over. it really sucks though because i took my time doing it and am 99 percent sure it is right. damn this gets frusterating

91toylockedup

im hoping i did not bend a valve or anyhting how would i check?

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

If you have a compression gauge, you could test that way. Those thread into the spark plug hole. You start by removing the rest of your plugs, then the coilwire. Doing this will tell you a few things with each hole you test. If you maintain pressure then you have good rings on the piston, good valves and seals, and no leaks in the head gasket. If all your holes maintain good pressure then your valves are fine and you don't need to tear the motor apart. If you have no pressure, or pressure that bleeds off then you have one of those problems I listed above. I hope you don't have a bent valve too. If so then its tearing off the head to fix. I would try to find a compression test gauge, either borrow, rent or buy one. They can be spendy, but worth it if it means not having to tear a motor down for a problem that you can't find because it wasn't the problem. So in another word do a little problem solving before you get gun ho on tearing the thing apart. A little bit of patience and tracking can save time and money. But most of all don't get upset and frusterated. I know it can be but having a level head will allow you to think clearly and solve the problem and not cost you more in the long run. Let me know what you find and how it goes.

Toyota_mike

Nvm..

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

Some Toyota motors might not be interferance motors, but the 22r is. I have rebuilt top to bottom 22r, 22re and the 3VZE 3.0 V6. Experience talking here. When I did my first timing chain many, many moons ago on my 1981 4x4. I had the crank 180 and bent a valve when I tried to start it. I double check everything now before I button a motor up and try to start it. There is nothing that pisses one off more then completing a rebuild and having to start over from an oversight.

91toylockedup

alright so i got it running just put it back to tdc and reset the dis. ran really good and allot quieter with the new chain. i let it idle checked for leaks everything looked good and then after i parked it came back out to find a puddle of oil under it. i think its the part of the head that was exposed when i pulled the cover. i did not use the right gasket sealer on that pert when the block is warm i can wipe off the excess with my finger. would i have to replace the whole head gasket or could i get away with useing rvt the goood stuff. or make a gasket for that little spot or something. any advice would help