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Igniton Timing 22re-c

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Old 09-05-2011, 03:37 PM
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Igniton Timing 22re-c

So I just bought this truck a couple months ago and still trying to get everything right on it. Im not saying it was neglected, just not driven much and it seems to have a few demons in need of exorcism.

As I've stated in other posts, Im pretty familiar with the 22R but not the RE so much. This is only my second one and the first one I pretty much just drove and never messed with it.

So today I was gonna adjust the valves on it and replace the exhaust gasket which didnt get done because of to much alcohol consumption yesterday. Those are the last two thing for the tune-up except the fuel filter which Im not looking forward too. The truck has new ND plugs, wires, cap and button. Anyways, checked the ignition timing on it today and it was way off the scale. So I set it to 5* BTDC per the manual. It idled much smoother but when I drove it, it is dead. So I changed it to 8* and still pretty much dead. I think I've got it set around 12 or 15 right now with the terminal shorted and the idle at 800. After first setting it to 5* I was letting it idle, pretty impressed with the smoothness of it, so I kicked the A/C on and now it doesnt idle up anymore. WTH, so I drove it and it would barely run 45mph down the road.

So I did some searching here on Yotatech, and found some stuff about the TPS. Checked it best I could with just my two hands and all the resistances were in spec. Not saying its not the culprit, but according to the ohm meter and the FSM, it says its good to go.

Also did a check that was right there in the FSM about vacuum on the 3 ports on the top of throttle body. The FSM said check them with your finger and all 3 should have no vacuum at idle and should all have vacuum at 3500 rpm. All checked out except the middle one which I think is labeled R. I guess it is plugged up, not sure, haven't investigated further yet. It looks like that particular line goes to the EGR actuator I guess its called.

Next strange thing I noticed is that it made no difference in the timing having the terminal shorted. The check engine light would flash so I know it was shorted. Also, when I would rev the engine with the timing light flashing on the mark, the mark would move to the driver side of the truck momentarily in to the retarded timing position before advancing. It would advance with the terminal shorted or not, no difference. When the mark moved the wrong way, the engine would stumble for a minute til the timing advanced itself. Is that normal? I wouldn't think so but maybe I don't know. Seems to me like shorting that terminal would be the same as disconnecting the vacuum advance on a carbeurated truck.

Sorry for the long post, but I am confused and the FSM isn't lending much help on this one.

The truck is a bones stock 85 SR5 with 150,000 miles on it.

Thanks
Old 09-05-2011, 03:57 PM
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If the idle lowers when putting the a/c check the A/C idle up valve. It might need to be adjusted, not working properly, or not even hooked up.
Old 09-05-2011, 04:03 PM
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No change in idle with the test jumper installed is typically the TPS adjustment:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...roubleshooting
Old 09-05-2011, 04:33 PM
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Yeah I guess I'll tinker with it some more. I don't really know what to do with it being that it's in spec now according to the readings I took today. I do have all the symptoms in the troubleshooting section of that article you put up though. My gas mileage sucks
Old 09-05-2011, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
If the idle lowers when putting the a/c check the A/C idle up valve. It might need to be adjusted, not working properly, or not even hooked up.
Yeah I'm gonna check that out but it does work with the timing way advanced like it was. It would jump up from 800 to 1000 before I adjusted the timing today
Old 09-05-2011, 04:49 PM
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Am I gonna mess anything up if I mark the spot of the tps now and just play with the adjustment to see if I can get it any better?
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