84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

Ignition switch failure

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Old 03-06-2017, 06:51 AM
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Ignition switch failure

So the past two weeks my rig has been sitting with a no spark issue and I've done every test known to man then did the GM ignition mod which didn't work so I went back to Toyota ignition parts and bought a new igniter, new pickup coil and a new ignition coil only to find out they don't work either.
Battery voltage goes to the igniter and coil but, when the key switch is turned to the start position, all power to my ignition is cut off then as the key is released to the on position, power returns.
I've been a motorcycle mechanic for decades and this kind of problem is not unknown to me but, a simple key switch swap is as easy as eating a slice of pie.
The key switch is not the problem, it is the actual contact switch itself that has the problem and that means the whole damned steering column has to come out to change the column harness that holds the switch.
What a huge PITA this has turned into and I want to know if anyone here has ever had a similar type of issue?
Oil is coming out of the contact switch, an unreasonable amount of oil if you ask me.
Old 03-06-2017, 09:05 AM
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I had to do that on my 81 Corolla a while back. I don't recall any oil coming from the switch - it was just old. Didn't have to drop the column IIRC. These things are one of the joys of owning older vehicles and doing our own work on them. It will work out good.
Old 03-06-2017, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by fasterspider
...it is the actual contact switch itself that has the problem and that means the whole damned steering column has to come out to change the column harness that holds the switch...
What year-model Escalade are you working on that the steering column has to come out to replace a simple ignition switch?
A problem well-stated is a problem almost solved.

If first-gen MoreFunner, you just need to remove the two plastic covers around the steering column, and you'll see work area clearly. Just need basic hand-tools pls a really tiny/short philips screw driver.

AND BEWARE OF THE BECK-ARNLEY IGNITION SWITCH PN 201-1410.
Mine came apart on its own during the install. I replaced with OEM from Toyotapartsdeal.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 03-06-2017 at 11:36 AM.
Old 03-06-2017, 11:27 AM
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You may need to pull the steering wheel but I dont think you have to pull the entire column. It has been a while since I have replaced an ignition switch so I could be wrong. I have pulled the steering column and it is not a bad job. Getting to the bolt near the firewall under the hood can be the trickiest part and think that is the worse part.
Old 03-06-2017, 03:20 PM
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After jumping the starter solenoid with the key switch in the on position to not use the switch I found there is still no spark and my rig is deader than George Carlin.
I'm at my wit's end and am done with the headache, the truck goes to a Toyota specialist out in Canoga Park tomorrow morning and they can deal with this sh it.

Last edited by fasterspider; 03-06-2017 at 03:21 PM.
Old 03-08-2017, 01:23 PM
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The shop found a broken wire connecter near my carburetor that had just been replaced and now there is a bad timing issue I am not even messing with, they screwed that up searching my no spark issue and will fix it.
Old 03-10-2017, 04:29 PM
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They didn't fix my rig, so I'm picking the thing up tomorrow and bringing it home.
Old 03-11-2017, 06:36 AM
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After weeks of troubleshooting, replacing 98% of the ignition system parts and basically just guessing, it comes down to the vacuum advance not advancing and I can buy a vacuum advance new for $59.00 + shipping or I can buy a whole new distributor for $103.00 out the door.
I'm tired of throwing money at the truck but, I'm not putting an old distributor​ back into my 22R after all this and realize I should have put a new distributor in when I put the new engine in back in 2015, none of this PITA episode would have happened.
Stubborn, stupid, inexperienced and too quick to throw money at a problem instead of doing more tests because I doubt my skills with electrical stuff.
I pick the truck up @ 9 am and then get the new distributor @ 10 am, should be running before noon but, one is too stupid for words so, we'll see what happens.
Old 03-11-2017, 07:34 AM
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You have a couple of different issues going on. The ignition Switch is the first one. The truck should still start without Vacuum Advance, this is another issue. There is a test to see if there is vacuum on the distributor. If I am correct, you should feel vacuum on both ports on the distributor. Most cases, one of the ports do stop operating and it is usually cheaper to replace the whole distributor instead of just the Vacuum Advance part.
Old 03-14-2017, 07:36 PM
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It turned out to be a failed distributor, I went wheeling up in Gorman Sunday and had a blast in my sweet running rig.

We went through the washed out creek beds and shouldn't have, we were committed and needed help getting out.
Check out the video I took of Tony and his Runner coming up out with a tug from a full size Ford it turned out he didn't really need.



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