Cylinder lead down test
07-26-2009, 06:30 PM
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Cylinder lead down test
Picked up an 85 4runner 22re. 170k. It is very straight and clean. All original, even down to the jack and tool kit. When I bought it, it did not smoke, knock, or tick. After 400 miles I checked the oil, it was three quarts low (full when purchased, and no excessive leaks. As soon as I filled it with oil it started to smoke and knock/tick. Seems to be using about a quart every 90 miles. The knock/tick only lasts until it is warmed up. It does not smoke until it reaches normal temp. The knock does not sound like a rod to me, it sounds like it is coming from the back of the head and echoing down. I did a cylinder leak down test today and this is what I came up with.
1# 40% most air loss out of the tail pipe, a small amount of air loss at the pvc/dipstick.
2# 5%
3# 5%
4# 45% most air coming out of the tail pipe, small amount of air loss at the pvc/dipstick.
Even with 1&4 lossing 40% it runs like a champ. Just smokes and knocks a little.
Does it sound reasonable to think the exhaust valves are burnt, and guides are leaking oil into the combustion chamber?
I guess I'm only out a head gasket if I order a head/cam from engblder and the rings are what is passing oil.
On another note where is a good place to by a TPS, mine shows bad at IDL settings.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreaciated.
1# 40% most air loss out of the tail pipe, a small amount of air loss at the pvc/dipstick.
2# 5%
3# 5%
4# 45% most air coming out of the tail pipe, small amount of air loss at the pvc/dipstick.
Even with 1&4 lossing 40% it runs like a champ. Just smokes and knocks a little.
Does it sound reasonable to think the exhaust valves are burnt, and guides are leaking oil into the combustion chamber?
I guess I'm only out a head gasket if I order a head/cam from engblder and the rings are what is passing oil.
On another note where is a good place to by a TPS, mine shows bad at IDL settings.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreaciated.
07-26-2009, 09:06 PM
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I am dealing with a very similar issue on my 84 22r. Burns oil at an alarming rate, and smokes lots, too, but runs great, good power and sounds pretty good, too. Also, I see much more white smoke when going down hill, say around 40 to 50 mph. I'm just going to tear it down and do a full rebuild. Not much more you can do.
07-27-2009, 02:33 AM
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Picked up an 85 4runner 22re. 170k. It is very straight and clean. All original, even down to the jack and tool kit. When I bought it, it did not smoke, knock, or tick. After 400 miles I checked the oil, it was three quarts low (full when purchased, and no excessive leaks. As soon as I filled it with oil it started to smoke and knock/tick. Seems to be using about a quart every 90 miles. The knock/tick only lasts until it is warmed up. It does not smoke until it reaches normal temp. The knock does not sound like a rod to me, it sounds like it is coming from the back of the head and echoing down. I did a cylinder leak down test today and this is what I came up with.
1# 40% most air loss out of the tail pipe, a small amount of air loss at the pvc/dipstick.
2# 5%
3# 5%
4# 45% most air coming out of the tail pipe, small amount of air loss at the pvc/dipstick.
Even with 1&4 lossing 40% it runs like a champ. Just smokes and knocks a little.
Does it sound reasonable to think the exhaust valves are burnt, and guides are leaking oil into the combustion chamber?
I guess I'm only out a head gasket if I order a head/cam from engblder and the rings are what is passing oil.
On another note where is a good place to by a TPS, mine shows bad at IDL settings.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreaciated.
1# 40% most air loss out of the tail pipe, a small amount of air loss at the pvc/dipstick.
2# 5%
3# 5%
4# 45% most air coming out of the tail pipe, small amount of air loss at the pvc/dipstick.
Even with 1&4 lossing 40% it runs like a champ. Just smokes and knocks a little.
Does it sound reasonable to think the exhaust valves are burnt, and guides are leaking oil into the combustion chamber?
I guess I'm only out a head gasket if I order a head/cam from engblder and the rings are what is passing oil.
On another note where is a good place to by a TPS, mine shows bad at IDL settings.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreaciated.
07-28-2009, 06:26 PM
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Well I bought a cylinder leak down tester, and ran a leak down test on the 22re. followed the firing order, hot engine, all the plugs removed. It left me scratching my head.
1# 8%
2# 8%
3# 12%
4# 8%
Thought about running a wet/dry compression test but thought that was a waiste of time.
I bought home a video probe from work, and that answered all the questions I had.
In the video probe you can plainly see a nice pretty cross hatch hone pattern in all cylinders. Slight oily build up on the center of each piston. But really clean around the edges of each piston, meaning oil is coming up past the piston top. After a few revolutions of each cylinder you can also see a hefty amount of oil running down each cylinder wall. The bottom side of the head on each cylinder looks real good also.
My guess is that the PO tried a home rebuild that did not go so well. Either the rings are in properly, they did not seat the rings properly, end gaps were not right, or maybe the cylinders were punched and they put the origional pistons back in. This is also probably why there is not bunch of leaks as they had to put all new gaskets in when they did it. Oh well does not change the course of action to much. Going to replace almost all the steering components this weekend, then new leaf springs, then I'll save for the rebuild, but at present a quart of oil, and pint of engine honey a week is keeping the knock/ticks down, and smoking to a min.
Also going to run the video probe down the timing chain this weekend, pretty much have determined the majority of knocking is coming from the timing chain cover. I will post how bad that is also.
I'll post picture from the video probe as soon as get a working card reader.
Thanks for the help, this site has been a wealth of information.
1# 8%
2# 8%
3# 12%
4# 8%
Thought about running a wet/dry compression test but thought that was a waiste of time.
I bought home a video probe from work, and that answered all the questions I had.
In the video probe you can plainly see a nice pretty cross hatch hone pattern in all cylinders. Slight oily build up on the center of each piston. But really clean around the edges of each piston, meaning oil is coming up past the piston top. After a few revolutions of each cylinder you can also see a hefty amount of oil running down each cylinder wall. The bottom side of the head on each cylinder looks real good also.
My guess is that the PO tried a home rebuild that did not go so well. Either the rings are in properly, they did not seat the rings properly, end gaps were not right, or maybe the cylinders were punched and they put the origional pistons back in. This is also probably why there is not bunch of leaks as they had to put all new gaskets in when they did it. Oh well does not change the course of action to much. Going to replace almost all the steering components this weekend, then new leaf springs, then I'll save for the rebuild, but at present a quart of oil, and pint of engine honey a week is keeping the knock/ticks down, and smoking to a min.
Also going to run the video probe down the timing chain this weekend, pretty much have determined the majority of knocking is coming from the timing chain cover. I will post how bad that is also.
I'll post picture from the video probe as soon as get a working card reader.
Thanks for the help, this site has been a wealth of information.
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07-30-2009, 06:20 PM
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Well had a post all worked up, and it went away.
I could not figure out how to post pictures to a post so I posted them on the gallery pages. Search for my user name there and you will see the pictures from the video probe. First numer after the d in the file name is what cylinder they came from.
Picked up all the parts to overhaul the steering components, sway bar, and strut bar. Plan on putting all that in this weekend.
Next project is to overhaul the steering knuckle.
Later
I could not figure out how to post pictures to a post so I posted them on the gallery pages. Search for my user name there and you will see the pictures from the video probe. First numer after the d in the file name is what cylinder they came from.
Picked up all the parts to overhaul the steering components, sway bar, and strut bar. Plan on putting all that in this weekend.
Next project is to overhaul the steering knuckle.
Later
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