dexman

Hi, I bought this truck many years ago when I was a kid, it needed a timing chain so it was my first major project.

The truck has sat in a field for almost 10 years and now ive got her back on the road.

There was a massive oil leak from the timing chain cover so I took it all apart and found the lower chain sprocket to be very loose. Has anyone else come across this, the gear moves on the crankshaft in or out about 1" of movement. I made a vid to show better what I mean, I'm going to get some gaskets but I'm wondering if its a good idea to put it back together with that thing moving like that. The engine runs well, it's noisy but no excessive knocking or valve noise. If I wasn't looking right at it I probably wouldn't know it was happening. Any insight? Thanks, -Dex

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cj5wu94N0A

dexman

the video should be up and going once it's processed

dexman

yeah that can't be right, I bet this is supposed to have a dual row timing chain and bigger lower sprocket to match, so what is the solution? New timing chain kit with dual row upper and lower sprockets. Funds are tight at the moment, could I pick up a dual row gear just for the bottom, but still run a single chain, or a spacer bearing to hold it all tight?

toyotabull

Its probably your oil pump gear on the crankshaft is made for a dual row system, and if you run a dual row in place of a single row you might have to change your timing cover also. might ask engnbldr on here or look on www.lcengineering.com at their timing sets.

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

You should be fine on the chain cover as they used the bigger cover up through 84 but only ran a single width chain from 8/82 thru 84. It would be an upgrade to go with the double width chain, like most people want.If you could find a double width sprocket I would run that. You should be fine only running one chain. Does the sprocket on the cam have two rows of teeth on it or one? What ever you do don't farm rig it together i.e don't try to find a bearing or something to just fill the difference. This a vital componant for the motor and if it lets go, you will be spending much, much more on fixing the broke valves, connecting rods ect that will most likely be damaged by it failing. This is one area that being cheap doesn't pay. If you need to sell something or save and buy the new chain kit. Are you sure that the oil pump gear in front of the sprocket is pushed all the way on the key and back to the sprocket?

dexman

Looking at the chain guides it looks like it was originally a dual row chain, but had been replaced by a single row with a lower sprocket too narrow (probably wrong year). The oil pump gear goes all the way to the point where the crank becomes larger. Looking at the cost of a locally available timing chain kit, weighted against the cost of a different 22R vs the parts I have in my shop to do a 7m swap, I'm wondering what to do.

I have an 88 7mge converted to run on triple side draft webers and msd in my 85 supra beside my truck at the moment. It runs and works very nice. I'd really like a 6 in the truck, but only on carb. I plan to use a different 7mgte block to strip and build the internals to put into the supra so this 7m thats in there now could use a home. It has the 85 supra motor mounts and oil pan and front sump pickup.

If I swap this 7M into the truck I will use most of the stock intake manifold adapted to mate to a 38/38 weber. This I believe is the trickiest part. I'm going to look around and see just which mounts and bits I need to make this work. If this all bolts up I really only need to buy the carb, a fuel pump and a few little things.

Would the W58 from the 85 Supra fit in the truck? Would the 5sp in the truck now bolt to the 7M?

Comments, suggestions?

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

dude your way beyond me now. I have seen some supra conversions done but never monkeyed around with them my self. It would awsome if you did the conversion, I would like to see the build. I can tell you that I have learned that for reliability reasons I don't think I would do a conversion. I find that most people end up working on their truck all the time to keep it running rather than having less power but 4 wheeling all the time. I think that you would be spending way less money just buying a timing kit rather than doing a conversion. Which I thought money was tight from what you said earlier. Go luck any way you decide.

dexman

well I found a 22r block on kijiji for $50 so i got him to delive it and gave him 100, came with 20r head and a bunch of parts so i got crackin. using parts from 3 heads and 2 blocks i came out with everthing i used in really great condition. I used a coil and ignitor from an 89 4runner v6 just changed the plugs and put an msd blaster 2 on there. gives be a nice spare that pugs right in if need be. I hope it works. Its all put together but im letting it all dry over night.


I'm really thinking of doing a turbo propane set up. or the 7m single carb.

dexman

So I was driving my truck when clutch started feeling like it needed a bleed, 2nd gear starting grinding. I pulled over and bled the slave cylinder, drove great, pedal felt great. Parked at home. Drove around a few more days. Last night came home everything working fine, parked.

Started my truck this morning to find that with the clutch pedal out and engine running the shifter will go into any gear but the truck won't move. I figure the slave is toast as it leaks a little so I replace the slave.

Now new slave in and bled and working properly pushing the clutch release fork, and returning properly.

With the truck in gear and the clutch all the way out with the fork in the standard proper position the truck doesn't move at all. With the clutch pedal all the way in to the floor the truck just hardly moves slightly.

So push the clutch all the way in and the truck starts moving just slightly. Let the clutch out and truck doesn't move, gear selector moves into and out of gears freely with good feeling of engagement. Could the release bearing have rotated? Or sheered? Or the fork bent, or snapped inside? Ever herd of such a situation? Any help or insight greatly appreciated!

a new clutch kit was installed 8 years ago by an excellent mechanic. I drove it for a few months then parked it for 8 years, picked it up a month ago and have started driving it again. When I changed the engine a few weeks back the clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel, bearing, fork, all of the components looked very good.

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

Check the pedal assm. at the firewall, known for cracking. have somebody push the pedal while you look for seperation. Check and make sure the slave is pushing the fork in.

dexman

the pedal assembly is in good condition no cracks or damage. While bleeding the new clutch master the movement of the fork looks exactly as it should.

AustinTaco

I don't have any help on the clutch, but I am digging the 20R setup. I will be checking back here and on many of the other "how to's" on the 20r head swap.

My 22r is having low compression in one cylinder and it's bugging the piss out of me. If I am going to start tearing into it, I want to get something more out of it.

I have a weber 38 on my truck now. What carb are you running with the 20r/22r hybrid?

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

wonder if the pilot bearing could cause the problem.

dexman

the feeling im getting is the clutch release bearing has either spun off the ears that the fork actuate from, or the ears have sheared off. reading and reading and reading about W58 trans swap, splines are the same, bolt pattern is the same, need the tail housing from a w56 i believe to bolt up to the transfer case.

re the 20r hybrid there are a few issues i encountered, i am happy to put some pictured and describe them. I believe you need a 20r fuel pump as the 22r is 3 bolt (vs two where i'd assume the 20r fuel pump bolts on) also the 22r fuel pump is at the front of the engine where the 20r is at the rear of the passenger side i believe. Im not entirely certain as i am running the propane carb that i bought the truck with and don't use a fuel pump. The 22r carb won't bolt onto the 20R intake manifold, an adapter is needed or something you can rig on your own. There are differences in vacuum lines and coolant lines on the 20 vs 22r intake manifold but nothing very difficult. be sure you retain the PCV as you will have crank case pressure and oil leakage from that if you decided to remove it (ask how i know haha). Major problem for many would be the lack of provisions to mount the 22r power steering pump. I looped the steering box as i don't like power steering anyways. there may be other differences i will ponder. pictures to follow when the light returns.

as for the motors function i really really enjoy the engine, higher compression and more tolerance for higher rpms. ill elaborate later.

AustinTaco

Thanks. All good first hand info.

dexman

i would use an electric fuel pump from napa for 75 bucks canadian 4-7 psi to solve that issue. for the power steering i would look for a pump and bracket from a 20r powered celica, or pickup. i guess you could grab a fuel pump at the same time. i know the adaptor plate for the weber 38 to the 20r intake is available. you could make a T to give you enough vacuum lines, or drill and tap another hole and put another fitting on the intake for the PCV and brake booster lines.

AustinTaco

I think I know someone that has celica with a 20R and he is also a very able toyota mechanic, so I am going to contact him today to see what he's willing to part with.

However, if I could get my truck back to how it was running a few days ago, I would be happy with that for awhile.

Thanks again, and good luck with the clutch.