RandyatBBY

I have done a lot of reading on the board about this subject. My Runner is great around town on the freway it needs to shift down to keep the speeds up to 75mph on a slight hill, if the hill turns in to a big one or I have a load (friends and gear) I slow down to 60MPH or a little less.

The plan is to take out the injectors and clean in my ultra sonic. I need to find a good source of a high flow cat and cat back system. Any one knopw of good links?

I also think a little shot of NOS would help too, What do you guys think.
My ride

85toy

sweet runner dude, i would kill to have that better watch your back haha jk. sounds like you have more power than me.

pattycakes77

iTrader: (2)

i have no useful information other than, NICE TRUCK!

i'll be watching this thread and many more since i am in the same boat as you. i've had two other 22re vehicles, this is my third, but i never got into any performance upgrades; plan on changing that this time around

jason191918

What gears are you running?

How many 22ER's were made?

grant526

Changing your axle gears will make the biggest difference.
If your getting 75 our of one of those, your doing pretty good to begin with! Especially if you have oversided tires.
How much lift are you running? Just curious?

RandyatBBY

I may be a little slow to get all the parts with summer comming but I wan to keep at it and get it done. I need to put in new berrings and a cam too. All in good time. I am still paying off the last round of up grade. it all just takes time and a little money.

RandyatBBY

That was a thought. I have on the OME 2 inch lift with Datin shackles, so about 3 inches on BFG 31's

RandyatBBY

They are the stock 4.11 or 4.10

norcalsvx

my power mods where
engbldr.com street rv head w/ 261 cam
LCE header, flowmaster
Donwey intake (k/n drop in will do fine)
cleaned inj.

i've though about running a 50shot for the dunes but have'nt had the cash

w/4.88's and 33's it pulls really well (waaay better than stock) but it's still no hot rod for sure

make sure your motor has good cap rotor and plugs as well

RandyatBBY

I have hot rods and not reall wanting to make this one in to one. I just want to be able to hold my speed and have good gas milage with this rig on the freeway. That was the cam I was thinking about I was wondering if the little horer one would be better on the top end.

My wife want me to sell all my rigs and get one new one but I like the old cars and no payments but for parts.

Ya, that was the first thing to tune it up.

frost203

I put a LcEngineering cam, headers, overbored throttle body, K&N intake and flowmaster cat and muffler with 2" exhaust all the way through, the injectors were cleaned and balanced. it did take a bit of tweaking the A/F mixture to get both decent MPG and off the line throttle response and top max speed. I hit 80-90s easy on the freeway w/ passangers and a very large sound system, and top speed of 97. Pulls on 5th up hills. Overall the improvement was great compared to some of the old wore engines I have had. Pulling a loaded trailer will keep me at 70 smooth and pushing hard to get 75-80. Up large hills with a large load is my only real dissapointment. NM mountain can make me creep to 45mph. My overall experience is if ur looking to throw less than $2000 to it then a 22re upgrade will make ya happy but dont expect V6 performance. After driving a few chevy 4.3l conversions the power difference in quite noticable, but the time and money needed to do such a conversion can be exhausting.

RandyatBBY

I think I would be happy if it all works out that good for me. I do not plan pulling a trailor, I have the motor home in the back ground to do that. I all so have Ca smog to deal with so I need to be careful not to screw that up. Good info Thanks I was sorts thinking about a throttle body from a later model to help.

What year Yota and tire size do you have?

4runnerx3

Have you checked your speed with gps? You're probably going faster than you think. I have 31's on my 88 5 speed, at 60 by the speedo I'm really going 65, in the auto with the same tires, at 60 I'm going 64.

RandyatBBY

Yes, I have and was taking that in to consideration on the speeds I am running. This truck loves to have the spedo at 60 to 65 on the flats with good gas milalge in that range.

norcalsvx

the 261 does good on the upper rpms (compared to stock) but these motors just dont like to rev to much

some toysport info

CYLINDER HEAD: It is mandatory to port all the heads. Big valves are also necessary to achieve and maximize the flow. Avoid cutting more than .50mm since valve clearance may be a problem with some piston combinations. Tri-Y headers work the best because they complement the wide torque band of these engines. If you are converting into the 20R head make sure that the 20R head has provisions for power steering (if you have power steering).

The choice in camshafts from many sources, must be carefully considered. High lift and long duration cams may affect the rocker arm geometry (and oil spraying function of the oil feed). Unless you take the time to ensure that the rocker arms are repositioned correctly (modifying the rocker assembly) do not even attempt. The long stroke / low RPM design of the engine dictates very mild cam lift and duration. You cannot redesign an engine with camshafts! Mild cams up to about 280 duration will work with the EFI with some adjustments to the AFM (air flow meter).

Stiffer valve springs are a safeguard from valve-float, but will not enhance performance since the best cam profiles will run fine with stock valve springs. An adjustable camshaft gear will allow the most accurate setting (remember that a Celica is totally different from a 4WD Pick-up).

There are no TwinCam heads available for these engines.

The 22RTE head chambers can be opened to lower compression and increase the flow. Big valves should also be considered, but not obligatory since this is forced induction.

FUEL SYSTEM: Twin side draft carburetors are a natural choice, but the EFI system will work excellent if the vehicle is originally equipped with one. (Some manifolds for the dual carbs have poorly designed water outlets that may cause overheating.) Long duration cams will seriously affect EFI engines, since combustion pressure drop dramatically even with high compression pistons. A fuel pressure adjuster may be needed. The Weber 32/36 or 38DPS are good upgrades for single carb set-ups. For carburetors, use a low pressure, high volume fuel pumps. Do not try to regulate lower fuel pressure with an adjuster because volume will also decrease. A fuel return line is mandatory to allow the fuel pump and carburetor to function properly. For any kind of performance do not rely on Toyota's mechanical or electric pump, they do not have enough volume. The 22RTE with any upgrade will need a higher output pump. The fuel pressure regulator should also be upgraded.

TURBO UPGRADE: The 22RTE needs forged pistons for any serious performance upgrade. The CT26 Supra Turbo (not the MR2/AllTrac) can be installed with minor fabrication. With boost controller, upgraded fuel delivery, 3" exhaust system, and intercooler- the 22RTE will put out in excess of 350HP, at about 25 psi!

Normally aspirated 20R / 22R engines can be turbocharged without too much problems. The stock pistons have to be replaced with low compression forged units.



IGNITION SYSTEM: The basic ignition unit was designed for low revving conditions. The electronics must be updated to the performance level intended for the engines. EFI engines converted to carburetors must use carburetor style distributors. Ignition amplifiers and knock sensors must be used to avoid high RPM misfires and detonation.



Some Recommended Set-ups:

For stock configuration- the 20R / 22R / 22RE engines are very easy to work on. Due to different emission requirements for the different model years, try to work on the original engine. Porting the head will increase breathing and will not hurt emissions- so basically to stay legal and improve performance- the cylinder head must be ported. The early 22RE pistons can be used to upgrade the 20R to 2400cc.

For modified configuration- the 20R head on top of early 22Rs will instantly give higher compression. All heads must be ported with big valves installed. Be careful of camshaft choice, just remember that all slow modified 20 / 22R / 22RE engines have been over-cammed. Do not try to install cams with duration over 280 on single carb or fuel injection models. Twin side carburetors are the best way to go. For limited budget use the Weber 38 DPS. Headers installed with 2 3/4" exhaust will be optimal. A heavier flywheel will help 4WD models, that should also have the gear ratios changed to compensate for tire sizes.

For racing configuration- basically these engines are truck engines. For off-road truck racing and high performance street use (both pick-ups and Celicas) the Toysport Spec SCORE / HDRA set-up is reliable and impressive. See the parts list for the 20R / 22R engines.

Although we have successfully used the 22RE in circuit racing and rallying, and truck off-road racing- the only reason these engines were used was because of the race regulations. The handicap is the block configuration- which was built for torque and longevity- meaning slow and heavy. The cylinder head modifications, if properly done increases head flow by up to 200%.

For turbo set-up- forged pistons, ported head with open chambers, big valves, TO4 or CT26 turbo, 3" exhaust, mild cam, Carillo Rods, boost controller, blow-off valve and keep the boost under 25 psi!!

GenXr

So, is the 261 Cam worth the time and money? Where do you notice the most gains? Any drawbacks to the cam?

Wardamneagle

Randy,

I would recommend an LC Engineering stainless header. I also put their entire stainless exhaust system on with new cat and everything. You can probably do it cheaper locally but you need the larger diameter exhaust (2 1/4" - I think, check their website).

I would then change the cam and port the heads. DOA racing, LC Engineering and Engnbldr.com are all good sources for parts.

I wouldn't fool too much with air intake, etc. as the gains are minimal at best. It is a good idea, however, to clean and balance your injectors.

Lastly, I would regear to 4.56 if you aren't going to go larger than 31" tires. If you think you will ever go to 33's then regear to 4.88. Regearing to 4.56 with 31's will bring the motor rpm's back to stock (and the speedometer for that matter).

I am regearing to 4.56 this summer by installing 2 TRD elockers. You can get them from the factory with 4.56 gearing and; with the right discount, they can be had for around $900 each. Since I would have to pay someone to install the ring and pinion gears, I figure I would have at least $500 in each diff if I regeared my diffs and I still wouldn't have lockers.

norcalsvx

i did a lot of stuff at once so i couldnt tell but i'm very happy with it, probably will go with a better TB next and see where my a/f's are at.

bktaco

x3 on the LC Engineering header, a thing of beauty. I have one on each of my current trucks. The consensus is to go with 2.25" pipes from cat back. I don't believe in high flow cats. However, a high flow muffler (mine are dynomax super turbos) also helps.

GenXr

Are you going to use Downey's TB?

I've got their header, exhaust system, and CAI. Once I got everything installed I noticed a difference. I'm wondering how much more of a difference a cam will make...if it would make a difference in a stock cylinder head.