trekkerinhawaii

Truck starts. Dies after 2 seconds. Almost sounds/feels like a vehicle does when running out of gas. It started up this morning, drove to coffee, problem occurs. Towed home in the afternoon, tried it again, same thing, starts and then dies. Fuel pump? Fuel filter? A DIY job, or mechanic?

Also, Midas said my axle seals are leaking. What do I need to do about that.
Love the Trekker, will get photos up soon. Thanks in advance for all the help fellow yota lovers.

1981 Toyota Trekker 4x4, I believe it is a 22r, please can someone correct me? Also, anyone have an 81 can show me/tell me what their air filter looks like? Trying to figure out if mine is stock or a possible k and n filter..

cman1

iTrader: (1)

vacuum leak,get some propane or carb cleaner and spray around.welcome!!!

HighLux

Please get us some pictures of this Trekker. Very important to us Trekkies.

Get some shots under the hood too. Interior. Especially the rear area.
Would be extremely grateful kind sit. Lots o pics.


When we see pictures under the hood we will know mech or electric fuel pump.
Most likely mechanical...but you never know. Fuel pump is super easy to do.

Start a thread in the pre 84 build up section and post pics and get to know your brethren.

Trekker is the 67 Corvette 427 tripower of Toyota 4x4's.

RobotMoose

iTrader: (1)

Axle seals are fairly easy, but are your fronts or rears leaking?
Rears are the easiest, fronts require a knuckle rebuild.

mtrdud

Sounds like a fuel pump and fuel filter to me.

81 Toyo

iTrader: (1)

Heres a stock 22r setup in my 81 for comparison....

RobotMoose

iTrader: (1)

But it's so... clean. How is this possible?

83

And that gold thing in front of the air filter, and just to the passenger side of the 22R, with the little blue dot in the middle of the top, is the fuel pump. Three bolts, three fuel lines and it's off. Very easy job. But my limited experience with mechanical fuel pumps is that they either work or they don't.

They're a very simple design. If it works, it works. But they don't work sometimes and not others. Think mechanical, not electric or vacuum. Mechanical stuff is either working or broken, for the most part.

Fuel filter is super easy. It'll either be along the frame, just forward of the gas tank (passenger side just behind the front door on the outside of the frame, I'm pretty sure), or it will be in your engine compartment near the carb. Two fuel lines and it's off.

83

Pump and fuel filter. On this truck, at least. You never know what people may have done over the years...



But there's also a chance this is on the spark side...Ignition coil, spark plug and wires, distributer cap & rotor. All fairly cheap things to replace. Everything but the coil is part of a tuneup that I do to every truck when I first buy it, just so I know they're new.

But rule out fuel first. If that doesn't help, start looking at spark.

Can you not keep the truck running if you keep your foot on the gas? It'll stall no matter what you do? Is this truck new to you? Or you've had it for a while and it just started doing this? Has any work been done on it recently? etc.

trekkerinhawaii

I cannot keep the truck running even when applying gas pedal, it stills dies 1-2 seconds after getting started. Yes, the truck is new to me, picked it up on island about 2 months ago. No work has been done recently as I know.

My plans are to change out rotor, cap, spark plugs and wires, and new air filter (wait till I get a pic of this thing put up, its weird).I will also change out the fuel filter (hopefully today as well) and will try to locate the fuel pump.

And yes I do not understand how that truck picture is so clean. It sparkles Mine does not say 22r or anything like that. Do I just call my 81 trekker a regular 4 banger then?

trekkerinhawaii

It's my front seals, I was quoted from Toyota here on island it would be at least $1000 if they needed to be repaired.

83

Well, it's either a 20R or a 22R. Best to find out. Sounds like it's probably a 22R. The tag either came off or it was removed.

That's pricey, but in the ballpark. Cost me $600-ish when I had my front axle seals done. Like RobotMoose said...when you do the front seals, you also do bearings and such.

If your pump is mechanical, I doubt this problem is the pump.

RobotMoose

iTrader: (1)

Sounds about right. Knuckle work is time consuming, but the parts involved are cheap, a good rebuild kit should set you back about 150. If you can find someone who does these things, you can have it done in an afternoon. At the very least, for about 75% of that $1000, you can do it all yourself and buy all the tools you need to do it.
Here are some useful links:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...wnload-261385/
This is a link to a free download of the 1983 Toyota pickup factory service manual. It's not a Trekker book, but it's all about the truck it's based on.


These are instructional videos on how to tear down and rebuild the front axle. It is for an 80-series Land Cruiser, but the parts are nearly 100% identical, just slightly beefier on the LC.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/fr...le-service-kit
Here is a convenient rebuild kit for the knuckles. You can just get parts from the dealer or any store or vendor you like, but Marlin is a cool guy that runs a good business and the only source for overbuilt seals.


If there was one tool for this swap I wouldn't bother with, it's the seal seating tool. You can make one by taking your seals down to the hardware store and finding a PVC female-to-female reducing coupler that's larger side fits onto the metal band of the seal (not over it or under it, you'll damage the sealing lips!) and a 5" length of PVC that matches the narrower side of the coupler. The length becomes the handle, and the wider female socket is the seating edge. If you want to get fancy, you can put a cap on the end of the handle to make it smoother.

83

Oh, and front axle seals leak. Except maybe when you buy Marlins "eco seals", which are beefed up. My front axle seals were leaking again 1 year after I had this job done. It's when you start getting oil running onto your tire (and brakes) that you need to worry. Wetness around the knuckle is pretty much normal.

RobotMoose

iTrader: (1)

This is true.
In fact, I would worry if there wasn't some dampness around the knuckles. If your felts are set up right on your knuckles, then your ball joints should be clean, but oiled at all times.

81 Toyo

iTrader: (1)

The original owner had obsessive compulsive disorder, he kept the truck immaculate inside and out and it shows, plus the fact it was always garaged in So.Cal and only has 60k original miles.....

HighLux

81 yours found a great home. So easy to tell you love that truck. I bet you smile everythime you start it up.

If you are ever crazy bored someday...a few hundred pics of your truck would actually help me alot in my trekker restoration. Hell Id even pay for your time if need be.

Nervo19

I was going to ask for pictures too! Please.

RobotMoose

iTrader: (1)

By the way, it's worth mentioning that knuckle service and axle seals in general are just a maintenance thing we all deal with. It's one of those kinds of things that everybody had to do back in the day before The Big Three turned all cars into disposable appliances.
Don't be discouraged by these things, the absolute best thing you can do is learn to do the work and be ready for it. That alone puts you into a level of knowledge and preparedness set well apart from the regular sheeple driving their grey boxes around.
If you can maintain your axles, brakes, timing, cooling and fuel systems, you'll keep your rig on the road for a lifetime.

cman1

iTrader: (1)

yeah,i conned my buddy into doin it for me,he runs a small garage,he did it for the $300.00 he quoted me....hes still pissed at me. hehe.