83

Well, the cam came as part of the rebuild kit the machine shop ordered. I talked to Ted, he thinks my timing chain is fine, but didn't like the cam. I'm probably getting the head rebuilt too...but not sure yet. So, if I do replace the cam should I rebuild the head, or what? I guess the machine shop could tell me whether the head needs a rebuild or not, but is it unwise to just add a new cam?

Can I rebuild the head with it on the engine or do I need to remove it? I'm just thinking that this truck was obviously pretty heavily abused, so it may not be a bad idea to get at it all while it's in pieces, but if I can rebuild the head at a later date without taking it off the engine....

Are you saying use 30w oil, not assembly lube? What's wrong with the lube?

So if I rebuild the head, it's the rockers and steel pad that must come from Toyota?

Red_Chili

Cam with a rebuild kit. Strange. If your existing cam is good, you can actually create more problems by replacing it (mismatched wear between new cam and old rockers). If you replace the cam, you must make sure the rockers are a) very smooth, or b) new. Mine fit a) for some reason, I think the person may have either put in a higher performance cam with new rockers, or something else led to new rockers. They sure didn't look like they had 150K on them. And it was not due to extraordinarily good care!

You cannot rebuild the head with it on the block. You need to pull the valves, replace the guides, grind the seats & valves, replace the seals, and reassemble.

Nothing wrong with assembly lube. Just not necessary. I used it when rebuilding my transmission and was sorry (lubed too well, synchros slipped till it washed out, but that does not affect your situation).

The rockers and steel pads are a single assembly (each rocker has a steel pad affixed) and yeah, they should only come from Toyota.

Ted can resurface rockers if you ask real nice. Not many can.

83

Ok thanks. It looks like if I do the head, I'll have the machine shop do it. They said $300-350, but that's with their parts, not Toyotas...I'll check it out. I guess it is curious that they included a cam, but nothing else for the head................wonder what the deal is with that.
Any info you've got like the rocker thing, I need. It was a local-independant- Subaru-repair-shop-owner who pointed me towards this shop. The Toyota dealership machine shop people rubbed me the wrong way....
I asked the Subaru guy, since this machine shop seemed to mostly work on domestics, if they would be good for my Toyota and he said yes, they're the best in town. But talking to them on the phone and in person when I get this info from you guys they do seem geniunely interested, like "let us know, because possibly this is something we should be doing differently with Toyota engines". So I think they're open to learning what to do and what not to do, so......I'll need good info.

By the way Bill, I'm Zach. Thanks for all the help.

Red_Chili

Talk to Ted on the rocker thing. I am only parroting him.

You're welcome, Zach! I too hate going it alone.

Red_Chili

So how is your project going?
My motor is back in the truck and I am fighting for time to finish all the bits. I had to weld & reinforce the 2 into 1 collector back together (like I had to on my son's truck, seems like a weak point). My alternator plug grenaded upon removal, but the local boneyard had a complete alternator harness for $15, so that is fixed. I elected to block the EGR to keep the intake cleaner and make a tiny bit more power.

83

Slowly, but well. My transmission should be on the way soon....engine is at the machine shop having the head rebuilt. Should be done next week. They definitely put me at ease when I brought up all my concerns. They definitely know what they are doing and are willing to take pointers from (or more like humor) someone who obviously has no idea what he's talking about but has done a lot of research...

I've just been cleaning things up and working on the interior lately, trying to get an '82 dash to fit my '83...harder than I would have thought..hopefully there will be something somewhat nice to look at once I'm done cutting & glueing...
It's pretty cool to think I'll be driving it before the warm weather's gone.

2 to 1 collector?

Is there also no emissions testing in Co? We don't even have inspections in Montana...

I didn't have anything fall apart on me..........yet, luckily. Other than the clutch pretty much disintigrating when I took it off, but I expected that. Anyway, I've got an engine stand and hopefully everything will go smoothly. I'm sure I'll have some more questions soon, but right now it's just waiting.


Update: Transmission is done and going out in today or Mondays mail!!!!!!! Now that's exciting. Marlin L52HD. I'll be paying it off for probably a year, but hopefully driving it for 20.

Red_Chili

Very cool!
Yep, Colorado most definitely has emissions in the front range. The EGR will not affect them though.
The 2-1 collector is the part that bolts onto the manifold. On the 22RE and IIRC yours, the manifold has two outlets, which merge in the beginning of the exhaust.
FWIW, that is where NWOR and Downey and others got their Tri-Y header design. Toyota's stock manifold is a Tri-Y (two pairs of cylinders' exhaust combine, then the resulting two paths combine into one). From what I have read, pretty darn efficient, too.

Crude ASCII art (dots instead of spaces which get stripped out by the BB software):
\/ \/
..\/
...|

scottd

What exactly are you doing with the dash? Replacing the dash pad? Replacing the plastic climate control / radio bezel? What's different between the '82 and '83? My '79 is missing the climate control / radio bezel so it would be good to know what the differences are in case I every run across a replacement.

I would also be interested to hear how you like the Marlin L52HD as I may go this route eventually (I have the 4-speed now ).

83

Ah, gotcha. My rebuild kit came with two metal gaskets that go between the manifold & exaust pipes...do you just pry the old ones out? I can't get them out..maybe I'll just leave the old ones in.

Toyota did (and does) have some good ideas.



I'm replacing the dash pad, heater control/radio bezel, instrument cluster....
The biggest thing is that in '83 they switched the connections on the instrument cluster. An '82 or ealier cluster will not plug in to an '83 pickup. In '83 they switched to what the next body style plug-ins were like, even though the '83 is still a Gen 1 body style.

Otherwise, my biggest issue has been that the fake wood bezel came with
SR5 models, which often (always?) had AC, and a different layout, so I had to cut that part out of the bezel (losing precious fake wood!!). Then I had to cut that part out of my old dash, since the heater controls on mine screw into the bezel, and glue it in to where I cut the other one out. Hope I explained that ok...otherwise the screw holes all line up & all that. Just be prepared if you're going from an SR5 to a non like me, you'll run into that. The actual year may not make a difference (as long as it's 79-83), but the SR5/non-SR5 does.

The dash pad from the donor truck also didn't have the little heater vents on the outer edges that my truck is set up for, so just today I cut those holes out. Now I need to find some sort of dash pad stop-tear (crack, actually) since it's so brittle after 25 or whatever years. I do have some photos...but aside from being a pain in the a@* and fragile stuff, it's fairly obvious what needs to be done when you compare them. It's just a matter of really comparing and measuring and thinking before you cut (wish I'd taken my own advice on that), and taking your time on the cutting, since it can get ugly real quick if you don't.

Sorry, didn't mean for this to be a dissertation but I'm in the process of dealing with it right now so it's all fresh and frustratingly clear in my head at the moment.


Oh yeah, and I'll post about the L52HD. Pricey, but it was that or some more serious modifications to put in a newer model transmission, since the first gen 5speeds were pretty weak. That's why I went with the HD. Only a little over $100 more than a regular rebuilt L52, and it doesn't seem too uncommon to hear of the original L52's starting to go out after only 60,000 or so miles. No good on a Toyota. I did consider going with a used 4 speed like yours to save myself a TON of money, but this truck's going to be on the interstate a good amount, so 5th would sure be nice!

scottd

Thanks for the info on the dash - good to know. I think you made the right choice with the transmission - I hate the 4 speed. By the way, there is lots of good info in this thread. Your truck is going to be nice when you get it all back together!

83

No problem. If you actually do it and have questions let me know. I didn't do a great job on mine, I'm certainly no expert, but having done it I can at least maybe help you with what not to do..

Thanks, I think I'll have a pretty nice truck at the end of it all, too. It sucked when the deeper I went into the engine, the more I found that was wrong, but hey, debt is the American way, and really, even though it's not what I had in mind when I bought the truck, I'll take a rebuilt 25 year old truck over a brand new truck just about any day, and for thousands of dollars cheaper, too. I think I'll have a $4,000 truck, when all's said and done, when I'm honest and include things like the couple hundred I just spent at the dealership getting gaskets & tune-up stuff, and the almost $100 at the auto store for just a bunch of hoses and fuel filter....new shocks...

It's bad. You start thinking "well what's the point of new engine & transmission and clutch if the shocks are broken & worn and the front suspension bushings are cracking and the interiors all worn out...."

etc.

foot0069

Here's a posting about cleaning the block head bolt holes. Please spend a little time on this step. Looks as though you are going to be really pleased when you get this truck up and running. Congrats on doing it yourself.
Jim

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...dilema-113434/

Red_Chili

Yep, you're gonna take some pride in that. Good call on the tranny. Mine lasted well over 100K + in my '82. FWIW. But it ain't as strong as a Marlinized one.

83

Thanks a lot guys. I'm getting pretty exicted. I should be driving it in 2-3 weeks!!

Yeah, I guess mine lasted 166,000, but still...

83

So is there any trick to keeping the chain tight with the install, or will it just naturally stretch a bit with some use? The kit didn't come with the metal backed guide, is why I ask. I will keep a close eye on the chain over the miles I put on once it's back together, but I'm just curious if there are any tricks that will help.

I got my transmission this week! Looks brand new. Any tips/tricks/advice to putting my transfercase on it and getting my shifter out of the old tranny? So far I haven't been able to get the thing to push down and turn at the same time to get it out..
I just got a gasket for the transfercase/tranny surfaces. Should I put some RTV too, or is the gasket enough?

Good link on the headbolts, thanks. That may save me some posting...time to go read through everyone else's threads so I know what's in store for me..

Red_Chili

The tensioner keeps the chain tight when your oil pressure comes up. Unless you overtorqued it, then it doesn't move at all. Or unless some machined metal bits got caught in it...

You just have to push down and turn. 'Tain't easy. I have a pair of slip joint pliers that seem to just fit in the top and make it easier.

I use Toyota Orange FIP and no gasket. "The Right Stuff" works pretty awesome too. If using a gasket, use the gasket only.

83

Ok, thanks. I got it. Very strange how I can try for 20 minutes not getting it, then come back a week later and get it in 1 minute.

Alright, the transmission came with a MC gasket from Marlin, so that's what I'm planning on using. Good thing they included that gasket, 'cause the one the dealership gave me is obviously the wrong gasket.

Red_Chili

So how's progress?
I aim to get mine running this weekend. WOOHOO! Motoman break-in time (except, 2K RPM for 5-10 minutes for the new cam).

83

Thanks for asking. The head is still at the machine shop. The main guy (maybe even the owner?) broke his leg so things slowed down...and now their other guy left and went back to some other shop, so it's just the guy with the broken leg so I guess he's a bit backlogged.

Block is assembled, machine shop was very helpful with that.

I've got my transfercase off my old transmissin, and will put it on the new one when I've got a friend to help. I'm wondering if I should put the transmission in the truck first now.........I hate not making any progress, but it seems like it will be much easier to get the engine in first....have any opinions on that?

Everythings cleaned up and ready to go...just need that head. I've even started spray painting some black parts (like parts of the engine mounts) that are worn, so I feel like I'm making some progress. : )

Red_Chili

Having now done both (engine in, tranny install second, v. tranny in, engine install second) I'd say it is a close call. You can put your tranny in now though, so you can check that off your list. When you put the motor in, don't rest it on the mounts - you want to be able to move it back and forth a bit. Don't force the tranny input shaft into the clutch, guide it in gently. Rotate the crankshaft pulley (I used a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt) back and forth to line up the splines. When things line up (aided by the starter stud), start threading bolts in and gently, without cocking the tranny/engine, tighten in a typical torque pattern.

You don't want to screw up the pilot bearing.