Rebuilt engine burning oil
#24
Registered User
Takes all of 10 minutes to do the compression test and rule out the rings.
Every man should own a compression tester. Go buy one right now. Even a harbor freight cheapie if you must. I use a craftsman one. Served me well.
Its not always about just finding out what the exact wrong thing is...its about ruling things out process of elimination.
Smoking on decel makes my "rings" alarm go off. We eliminate the rings...then we look at valve seals...and guides.
Help us.....help you.
Every man should own a compression tester. Go buy one right now. Even a harbor freight cheapie if you must. I use a craftsman one. Served me well.
Its not always about just finding out what the exact wrong thing is...its about ruling things out process of elimination.
Smoking on decel makes my "rings" alarm go off. We eliminate the rings...then we look at valve seals...and guides.
Help us.....help you.
#29
Registered User
Valve guides. Your compression is ok. Not great for a brand new motor though. Your valves are working.
The guides didnt get done or were done wrong....and oil is leaking past burning.
I'd be talking to the builder by now.
The guides didnt get done or were done wrong....and oil is leaking past burning.
I'd be talking to the builder by now.
Last edited by HighLux; 11-23-2013 at 03:56 PM.
#32
Must be guides. Is there any way something else could be causing smoke between shifts and decel(high vacuum) besides the guides.. It was smoking the exact same way before the new engine too.
#34
Registered User
#35
I've called them twice. He's told me to let it break in all the way and get a few thousand miles on it. I don't see too much point in calling since I installs it my self and don't have a warranty.
#36
Registered User
You are saying there is no warranty on the engine unless a shop installs it?
Why would you even buy a motor with no warranty? price?
Its worth a shot to see if they will stand up. Bad valve guides can hardly be blamed on installation.
#37
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
In the first moments of life of the motor, did you free-rev it a lot? Did you drive really smoothly at low load and rpms and at constant speeds for long periods of time? Did you use good quality synthetic oil? All of these things could have screwed the break-in process. It is important to have the rings expand and contract for them to seat properly i.e high loads and then let it compress, also to use conventional oil (less ''slipery''). How many times have you changed the oil and at what inervals?
If I was you, I would drive the thing hard for a while, like floor it in second and let it compress in third, then floor in third and let compress in fourth, and repeat that process a couple of times, but your problem could also have nothing to do with the piston rings not seating properly.
If I was you, I would drive the thing hard for a while, like floor it in second and let it compress in third, then floor in third and let compress in fourth, and repeat that process a couple of times, but your problem could also have nothing to do with the piston rings not seating properly.
#38
Registered User
Ah, I never saw that you mentioned talking to them.
Not many rebuilders do installs...they aren't general mechanics, they're engine rebuilders. Most rebuilt engines are installed by someone other than the rebuilder, and come with a warranty.
But that's good that you've been in contact with him and have documented what might be issues.
Not many rebuilders do installs...they aren't general mechanics, they're engine rebuilders. Most rebuilt engines are installed by someone other than the rebuilder, and come with a warranty.
But that's good that you've been in contact with him and have documented what might be issues.
#39
I followed the break in procedures. Used 10w30 oil. Not synthetic. I didn't keep it at low rpms. I drive it like an 18 year old should (didn't abuse it) but didn't baby it. I had the exact problem before the new engine.. Which makes me think it's not the rings or valves. As I was adjusting the carb today I noticed as I backed out the mixture screws it was smoking whitish with maybe a hint of blue. And I could change the amount of smoke at idle with mixture. And when I shift higher rpm on the highway when it smoke it's seems like it's a white smoke that turns light Blueish.. Is this a problem with my carb? Me and my grandpa are starting to think it is.(again) the whitish smoke is not from coolant or condensation.