Eg-r

ive install a weber carb onto my 82 4x4 truck. im not much of a carb guy but i was able to adjust the carb good enough for it to run and idle good. i have a a/f wideband that i can install to make the tune to where it can be at the dot. anyone know what a/f it should be at?

Eg-r

im new to carburetor. ive install a weber 32/34 carb for my 82 22r. i was able to make good enough adjustment for the car to idle(850rpm) and drive ok. ive heard if a a/f wideband was install you can make a better accurate adjustment. i have access to one. where do i set the a/f to on idle? will setting the right a/f at idle make the whole driveabilily good or do i have to set a certain a/f at certain rpm. because i know there is only one adjustment. thanks

xxxtreme22r

theres more adjustments you can do with the weber then just the initial mixture screw. ie jetting (primary, secondary, air correctors etc etc, all of which if your new to carb's I wouldn't touch it as long and it's running correctly. Most of the time setting the carb correctly via the lean best idle method and changing out the main idle jet accordingly is good enough. Simple google search for stoich should tell you what you need to see with the A/F wideband, but depending on the meter you are using it should tell you what is good and what is not.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Double threads merged.

Please do not post duplicate threads.

:wabbit2:

Eg-r

so i took my car to smog and they have said that my car is running too rich plus i need a cat. im going to get a cat install but now im stuck at tuning my weber carb. i was planning to put a a/f gauge on but i found out that the stock 02 plug is different. i cant screw on the 02 sensor where the stock 02 is bolt on by 2 bolt

xxxtreme22r

the lack of cat can cause high reading as far as rich and not rich. I think anyway even if it doesn't...

How did you tune the carb to begin with? What and how did you set your ignition timing?

P.S. how are you gonna pass smog with a carb that is not smog legal anyway especially when the EGR, PAIR etc etc have been disabled?

Eg-r

the weber carb i have is a ca legal(dvag). i set my timing to 8 with the 2 vacuum unplug from the distrubutor and vacuum line plug. i tune the carb by setting the idle screw to factory spec(800rpm) and adjust mixer screw so the car idel normal. the car drives good. i was thinking just getting a new cat. install and take it go smog again.

xxxtreme22r

you don't set factory idle first then the mix screw.

This is the ONLY correct way to tune a weber 32/36.

SET UP ADJUSTMENTS

Start set up by confirming carb base line settings. Do not depend on the factory delivered settings. Check them before the carb is installed.

All settings are done with choke disengaged or warmed up so that the choke is fully opened and disengaged. This is done on automatic choke carburetors by first opening the choke butterfly by hand and inserting a wood block or wedge of some kind to hold open while the linkage is cycled (linkage operated through its full movement ) to clear the choke cam. (You will hear a metallic click as the cam is released. You can check the fast Idle screw under the choke assembly to confirm that it is not in contact with the choke fast idle cam.)

Set the Idle stop screw (speed screw) by backing out the Idle speed screw until it is not in contact with the throttle stop lever. Cycle the linkage again to be sure that the linkage comes to close without any assistance. (Checking for linkage bind) Now bring screw back into contact with the lever and continue to open or screwing in 1 turn no more than 1 1/2 turns.

Set the mixture screw (see Fig 1) by first screwing in until the screw stops, bottoms out. DO NOT FORCE OR BIND AS THIS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE SCREW AND IT’S SEAT IN THE BODY OF CARBURETOR. Back out the screw 2 full turns.

TUNING

BE SURE TO FOLLOW THE NEXT INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PROPER SEQUENCE, DEVIATION WILL CAUSE THE CARBURETOR TO NOT FUNCTION TO ITS IDEAL SPECIFICATIONS AND MAY NOT PROVIDE THE PERFORMANCE AND FUEL ECONOMY AS DESIGNED.
Start the engine, the engine will run very slowly more like a tractor. As long as the engine stays running idle speed is not important at this point.
The first thing to do is not set up the idle speed, but to set the Idle mixture screw to lean best idle setting. First, turn in the mixture screw until the engine dies or runs worse, then back out the screw (recommend turning ¼ to ½ turn at a time). The engine should pick up speed and begin to smooth out. Back out ½ turn more, or until the screw does nothing or runs worse then turn back to the point where it ran its best.
Use your ear, not a scope or tuning instruments at this point. You want to tune the engine by sound. Adjust to best, fastest and smoothest running point.
Now that the mixture screw is at its best running location, you can adjust the Idle speed the screw. The screw will be sensitive and should only take ¼ to ½ turns to achieve the idle speed you like.
Check and set idle to your driving preference. Put the car in gear and apply slight load, (AC on) and set the Idle as you like it. Don’t set it too high, as this will cause causes excessive clutch and brake wear. The Idle only needs to be 7 to 900 RPM with light load or AC on.
Recheck timing and vacuum hook ups. Recheck mixture screw to lean best idle again. If all is still best and smoothest idle then confirm and note the final settings.
To confirm settings with the engine running. Start by screwing in the mixture screw and count the number of turns it takes to bottom out and note if the engine dies. If Idle Mixture screws are with in ½ turn of base line setting then all is well and have fun. Also check the speed screw and note how many total turns from initial contact. You may have opened (turned in) the speed screw. Your final setting should be under 2 full turns. Reset the screws (back in) to the best final settings (Per your notes) and go on a test drive and have fun. If the settings are other than described then you may want to recalibrate the Idle circuit (low speed circuit) to your engines needs. This is done by following the rule of thumb BELOW.

Simple Rules for low speed calibration

If the mixture screw is more than 2 1/2 turns out turns then the Idle jet is too lean (too Small). When the mixture screw is less than 11/2 then the Idle jet is too rich (too large). These assumptions are based on the fact that the speed screw setting is not opened more than 11/2 turns. If the speed screw has to be opened 2 or more turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition usually requiring greater change. At times it may appear to be showing signs of richness or flooding it is really a lean condition. See pictures and notes in the tech 2 article supplied in the kit instructions, view and please understand the need to keep throttle plate as near to closed as possible so as not to prematurely expose the transition holes. This is what causes the visible rich condition, and confirms the need to increase the jet size. JET KITS are available if needed.

EXAMPLE With the speed screw set at no more than (1 1/2) turns in after contact with the stop lever; and the best idle occurring with the mixture screw set at 3 turns from bottom, indicates the need for a larger Idle jet. Achieving the best idle at under 2 turns indicates the need for a smaller idle jet.

87toy.

i had some serious intake leaks.... out of the box... that adapter is junk if you ask me. i ahd to double gasket everything for it to seal.... squirting carb claner around the base will tell the story.... if u have a leak it will run poorly. to rich or to lean, not just right, will feel like u have a miss.. this is out of the box... in the works for making a solid one from my friends milling machine... ive put about 3200 miles on mine in 2 months and have i make sure everything is nice and tight once a week... usually a lil bit lose. the carb is great thow

xxxtreme22r

Right so did I still think I might. They do make 1 piece adapters though. I've heard OK things on LCE's spiral adapters, but that is still a two piece unit as well.

Eg-r

I need to check my weber adapter to see if it maybe leaking too. But what I found out that the larger vacuum hose that plug underneath the Blk metal intake plate was leaking. Can that cause it to run lean or rich? Once I replace the hose the car wasn't able to idle so I had to retune the carb again.

Eg-r

ive notice there is also another sensor that came with the weber carb that i didnt install. its about 2-3inch long with jets at one end and a one wire pin on the other. anyone know where this goes? as for the vacuum that are open and can not plug to the weber carb. what do i do with the open lines? i know weber came with a paper to show where all other vacuum goes to what but the detail on it is not so great.

80t0ylc

Thanks for posting the tuning instructions in post #8, xxxtreme22r! When I bought my '81, it already had the Weber on it. The PO did not include any documentation for it and I've been slowly gleaning anything that I can. I also bought a Haynes Weber carb manual that has some good info, but the most useful info has been on forums such as this.

1stgenboy

That is called the idle stop solenoid or something like that. It cut's fuel to the idle circuit completely when closed and acts like the regular idle jet when power is applied. If you have a problem with dieseling, runon or backfire after ignition is shut off then use it. It should screw in where the primary idle jet goes and requires power when ignition is on.

1stgenboy

Eg-r

Ok, do I use the same power coming from the factory plug? Cause the factory solenoid have a positive and negative. This sensor from weber only have one pin plug only??

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Check out redline's or weber carb's direct websites... They both have extensive troubleshooting sections...