'81 Yota w/ Weber Passed Oregon DEQ!
#21
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Good luck with your tuning.
xxx: I did mention that the choke coil may be bad on mine. the butterfly on the carb never stays open all the way unless I force it, and then it tries to die. So maybe 13 deg. really is too far, but I have enough power and it runs pretty good right now.
And as I mentioned, it passed smog, which is the best part
xxx: I did mention that the choke coil may be bad on mine. the butterfly on the carb never stays open all the way unless I force it, and then it tries to die. So maybe 13 deg. really is too far, but I have enough power and it runs pretty good right now.
And as I mentioned, it passed smog, which is the best part
#22
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Thanks for the info! I checked my downloaded FSM and it agrees with your info. It's for 1st gen up to '85 which includes my engine. 0* for 22R w/ vac. adv. off and 12* BTDC with it hooked up (max. 950 rpm). 22R-E is 5* BTDC at idle (short terminal "T"). I got some fine tuning to do - Thanks!
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You'll figure it out if you use that FSM enough, but it doesn't cover 1st gen up to 85. It is specifically a 85 FSM. But when it comes to quite a bit of stuff, the info will be the same. Don't look at it as the FSM for your truck, though, or it'll get you in some trouble. Look at it as a vast improvement over a haynes or chilton, but not an 81 FSM. TTORA just lists it that way, because there are no online FSMs for anything pre-85. All FSM are year specific. No such thing as one that covers multiple years.
#25
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Yeah, I sometimes feel like a broken record on this...someone comes in the pre-84 section sometimes it seems like once a week saying "here's a link to the FSM for your truck", and it's just not the case! But that online 85 FSM will get you most of what you need to know. You just need to use it realizing a lot of what's in there isn't correct for your truck, especially when it comes to wiring.
Sometimes you just have to be on the lookout...I was posting in an unrelated thread about how I need an FSM, and someone offered to sell me theirs right in that thread. There's the classifieds on here, ebay, or this number 1-800-622-2033 if you want to spend money...(taken from here , about half way down)
Sometimes you just have to be on the lookout...I was posting in an unrelated thread about how I need an FSM, and someone offered to sell me theirs right in that thread. There's the classifieds on here, ebay, or this number 1-800-622-2033 if you want to spend money...(taken from here , about half way down)
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Surprized!
OK, this is wierd. I hooked my vacuum hoses up like drokliss & xxxtreme22r suggested. Originally timed at 8* BTDC & my vacuum port off the carb went to the rear distributor port and the front dizzy port went to a vacuum port on the intake mainifold (BTW, this hose has plenty of vacuum at idle). Now the carb vacuum port is hooked up to the front dizzy port, back dizzy port is plugged up and so is the intake manifold port that I previously used. And I set timing at 12*BTDC, and it doesn't matter if I have dizzy advance hose hooked up or not - the timing at idle is the same just as yours. When I rev the engine, I get vacuum on that carb hose, just not at idle. It does seem to have a tad more power, though on a short test drive.
If I hook up the intake vacuum hose to the front dizzy port, it sends the timing up to like 20* BTDC or more. And with that intake manifold port unplugged and not hooked up to anything, the idle speed increases. It will slightly decrease if plugged into the front dizzy port. Is the front dizzy supposed to be plugged into the Weber vacuum port or an intake manifold port? Any suggestions???
If I hook up the intake vacuum hose to the front dizzy port, it sends the timing up to like 20* BTDC or more. And with that intake manifold port unplugged and not hooked up to anything, the idle speed increases. It will slightly decrease if plugged into the front dizzy port. Is the front dizzy supposed to be plugged into the Weber vacuum port or an intake manifold port? Any suggestions???
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