sound insulation

DavidO06 · 05-22-2003, 09:53 PM

i was just wondering if any one has added sound insulation to their 4Runner, such as Dynomatt or something of the such. I have put a little on mine, but i was wondering what the best way to go about it was.

Thanks

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DuB · 05-23-2003, 12:16 AM

I only have dynamat in the doors, but if u want sound supression, you should go w/ a foam. Deadening materials like dynamat and similar products only weigh down panels, but they still vibrate. You need something that absorbs vibrations to supress road noise and the such. At one time I planned to put in 1/2" foam padding down, but now I'm much too lazy

Bumpin' Yota · 05-23-2003, 06:32 PM

There are MANY things that you can do.

1. First apply some HiTemp Mastic (found here for CHEAP www.mcmasters.com) on your doors skins. (All 4 doors.)

2. Next pull down the headliner, pull down all the factory applied padding. Fill ALL roof braces with expanding foam (the areas btwn the braces and the roof). Apply HiTemp Mastic to where the padding was in the open areas. Then using spray glue reaffix the factory padding. Replace headliner.

3. Pull all the seats out and anything in the way of pulling out the carpet. Remove the carpet and use 8lb carpet padding btwn the floor of the truck and the carpet.

4. Remove back 1/4 panels and fill unnecessary spaces with expanding foam but BE CAREFUL. Expanding foam takes a while to expand, and it does so VERY forcibly. Only apply about 3" thick layers or so and wait 4 hrs so that it solidifies. If you slammed an entire can in the panel all at once, the next morning you'd have a VERY expanded 1/4panel....so use caution.

Ive done all of this (13cans of expanding foam so far) and you can whisper in my truck when Im driving at 80mph and everyone in the truck will hear you. I LOVE it.

turboale · 05-23-2003, 06:38 PM

If you do decide to go dynomat find a friend that works for best or circuit city. They mark up the hell out of those things (they can get it real cheap).

Good luck!

Bumpin' Yota · 05-23-2003, 06:46 PM

HiTempMastic IS dynamat but WAY cheaper than dealer on Dynamat. I can get both but went with HTM over dynamat due to price.

HiLux_1990 · 05-23-2003, 09:42 PM

Yep, strip that baby right down to her firewall and go nuts!

Some other materials are:
bitumen-based paint (use only high quality)
bitumen sheeting
ceramic-based paint (high tech stuff)
extra thick, multi layered underlay
automotive sound deadening foam

The bitumen based products obviously have a smell, but you can apply it to your preferred thickness, sheets come in many thicknesses, and it's kind on your wallet.
Also I would recommend a layer of foil sheet (ie. thick tin foil or heat shield) on top as bitumen products will stain things.

Check with automotive carpet suppliers as they may have some ideas. A company here produces a thick underlay that comprises of underlay-bitumen-underlay.

Specialised sound deadening suppliers can also help with special foams and multi-layered underlays.

Hmm, I wonder if I'll be able to drop a pin in my truck at highway speeds

Dave.

02Runner · 05-24-2003, 03:57 AM

I am just finishing up right now. I started yesterday evening after work just removing interior parts. Well, I got it all out and applied "Brown Bread" and Dynamat. I will finish it up this morning, I have to replace a few panels and thr rear seats. The whole prject probably about five hours to finish.

The difference is awesome. The ride is quieter than my 740il. Definitely worth every cut and scratch which i now have plenty of. That shizitt's like a razor! Good luck!

keisur · 05-24-2003, 04:48 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 02Runner
I am just finishing up right now. I started yesterday evening after work just removing interior parts. Well, I got it all out and applied "Brown Bread" and Dynamat.

and you didn't take pics to post???!!!!

02Runner · 05-24-2003, 07:57 AM

No, I didn't take any pics. Sorry guys, don't know what I was thinkin'!

It's pretty much straight forward, but I do warn you of those little plastic clips that hold the panels in place. Be gentle when taking them out. If you break the end off of one, its a bizz-itch fixing.

keisur · 05-24-2003, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 02Runner
No, I didn't take any pics. Sorry guys, don't know what I was thinkin'!

It's pretty much straight forward, but I do warn you of those little plastic clips that hold the panels in place. Be gentle when taking them out. If you break the end off of one, its a bizz-itch fixing.

oohh! been there! :pat: I have also accidentally cracked the pillar panel on the rear of the quarter window in back when one button didn't snap loose and I was at the end of my patience. luckily a little superglue and the fact that it crack perfectly so it went back together with no seam it looks good like bran-noo!

Los Gatos? · 05-24-2003, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by DuB
I only have dynamat in the doors, but if u want sound supression, you should go w/ a foam. Deadening materials like dynamat and similar products only weigh down panels, but they still vibrate. You need something that absorbs vibrations to supress road noise and the such. At one time I planned to put in 1/2" foam padding down, but now I'm much too lazy

Wow, I never thought I'd get to say this to anyone on this board...but you're wrong!!! ahhahahahahahha! (jk I won't rub it in hehe) I have 2 layers of second skin damplifier (www.secondskinaudio.com) in my pickup, and there is NO rattling....even with 900+ watts to my 15" sub + 300 watts to my components. There is no rattle outside the car, inside you can't hear any road noise, it sounds like a Lexus or Benz! The music is crystal clear, it made a HUGE difference in my car, so before you start saying it doesn't do anything, use it yourself, it works WONDERS.

keisur · 05-24-2003, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Los Gatos?
Wow, I never thought I'd get to say this to anyone on this board...but you're wrong!!! ahhahahahahahha! (jk I won't rub it in hehe) I have 2 layers of second skin damplifier (www.secondskinaudio.com) in my pickup, and there is NO rattling....even with 900+ watts to my 15" sub + 300 watts to my components. There is no rattle outside the car, inside you can't hear any road noise, it sounds like a Lexus or Benz! The music is crystal clear, it made a HUGE difference in my car, so before you start saying it doesn't do anything, use it yourself, it works WONDERS.

sounds like an interesting setup gato. I'm looking at making my stuff sound better with a sub or something. I'd be interested in seeing a few pics of your setup if'n ya don't mind. you didn't happen to take any oc the soundskin install because this stuff is a little less expensive and I don't want to pop an arm and a leg in just for sound. appreciate it if you had a few to gander at. cause I can't find any pics on the site.

thanks.

Los Gatos? · 05-24-2003, 01:05 PM

Ask and ye shall receive!!

Here ya go!!! I hope these pics are okay...it's hard to get a shot, the stuff is pretty thin....30 mils...couldnt' really get a side shot. Andrew (the guy that owns second skin) is a real cool guy, he'll help you out with how much you'll need and stuff like that.

Los Gatos? · 05-24-2003, 01:16 PM

Here's the audio equipment...

Crystal CSC60s components (tweeter is at ear level on the front panels)

That is the headunit....ooo touchscreen hehe. The trim ring was off in that pic...it looks like it'd be really hard to read, but that's the in the pic, I've never had a problem reading it yet!

http://pics.montypics.com/qramius/20...1_DSC00041.jpg

Here is the Damplifier Extreme, nice stuff... 60 mils thick, goes on nice 'n' easy.

If someone wants to host a movie, I have a good movie of my sub "flexing" hehe... it sure beats the hell out of IFS!!!

Bob_98SR5 · 05-24-2003, 01:46 PM

Damn you, guys---my list of mods to do just got a little longer! Actually, Bumpin Yota gave me this advice awhile back but I haven't gotten around to it. After seeing LG's pics, it looks doable.

As for the "little plastic clips" 024Runner mentioned, what is the best and easiest way to safely remove them? I remember trying to remove the headliner off my 99 to fix the headliner rattle but after a few tries, I gave up b/c I was afraid to break something.

Also, I see three "stick on" products mentioned here: Dynamat, Brown Bread, HiTemp mastic. I'm assuming they are all effective, but which one smells the worst? Which one smells the least? I've read that there are products out there that smell like tar. Also, as BY mentioned, HTM is cheaper than Dynamat. But is HTM cheaper than Brown Bread?

Any pics, tips, advice, experience, etc would be greatly appreciated.

Bob

Los Gatos? · 05-24-2003, 01:48 PM

Second skin is probably the cheapest. It doesn't smell at all, sticks really well, it's FAR more cost effective than Dynamat, I don't know how it compares to brown bread...

keisur · 05-24-2003, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bob_98SR5
As for the "little plastic clips" 024Runner mentioned, what is the best and easiest way to safely remove them?

since I almost ed myself, I went to homo-depot and found a special tool in the power tool section. It's not exactly the "right" tool that they sell at the auto parts store but it gets the job done and it also comes in useful on other things.

keisur · 05-24-2003, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Los Gatos?
Second skin is probably the cheapest. It doesn't smell at all, sticks really well, it's FAR more cost effective than Dynamat, I don't know how it compares to brown bread...

I checked brown breads website and I think it's pretty steep too, along with "dollar"mat. I think I'll be giving your buddy a call as soon as I scrape up the cash, hehe, after I get my new tjm t15 installed. hehe, this is what I get to do since I got that 2k3 for the wife, haha.

she doesn't know what she did giving me that kind of "expense account" to deck my runner out with, haha. I figure after the bumper and the skin, I still have about 33k+ to get more of what I want, hehe.

Bob_98SR5 · 05-24-2003, 04:49 PM

LG and Keisur,

Thanks guys for the input, esp the pic of the tool. Looks like my ex-boss' (that b@#ch) tongue!

Bob

keisur · 05-24-2003, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bob_98SR5
Looks like my ex-boss' (that b@#ch) tongue!

OK!!! that has got to be one of the funniest things I've seen on this whole board yet. I can relate, I've had a few of them but mostly of the spineless variety.

Bumpin' Yota · 05-25-2003, 07:50 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bob_98SR5
Damn you, guys---my list of mods to do just got a little longer! Actually, Bumpin Yota gave me this advice awhile back but I haven't gotten around to it. After seeing LG's pics, it looks doable.

As for the "little plastic clips" 024Runner mentioned, what is the best and easiest way to safely remove them? I remember trying to remove the headliner off my 99 to fix the headliner rattle but after a few tries, I gave up b/c I was afraid to break something.

Also, I see three "stick on" products mentioned here: Dynamat, Brown Bread, HiTemp mastic. I'm assuming they are all effective, but which one smells the worst? Which one smells the least? I've read that there are products out there that smell like tar. Also, as BY mentioned, HTM is cheaper than Dynamat. But is HTM cheaper than Brown Bread?

Any pics, tips, advice, experience, etc would be greatly appreciated.

Bob

o wow I forgot how hard the push tabs are to get out of the headliner till you posted that. I have a 2nd gen, so it may be differeint for your 3rd gen, but mine has 4 plastic tabs, like you describe, in the very rear of the vehicle, that have to be pulled out in order for the headliner to come out. In my case each one of those SOB's took every bit of 40lbs of direct downward force to be removed.

So as to not break them, I had to improvise - I used plumber's tape? (it's a zinc strip about 1" wide, comes in a roll about 25' long, with holes in it every inch. Its very malliable and pliable but is a metal of some sort - zinc I assume) I basically cut one of the holes out to the edge so that I could slip the tape btwn the roof liner and the tab. Then the tag ends I just bent down and put a large screwdriver through so i had a good handle and pulled. Removed all 4 tabs like this in under 5 minutes with no breakage.

HTM is the cheapest bar-none (i think) at 18bux per 48x36 sheet, but stinks to holy-hell for the first week. After that first week, the smell is 100% gone.

steve

Bumpin' Yota · 05-25-2003, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bob_98SR5
LG and Keisur,

Thanks guys for the input, esp the pic of the tool. Looks like my ex-boss' (that b@#ch) tongue!

Bob

ROFLMFAO!!! That about how I feel towards most chicks in general.... I have yet to meet one that can be trusted...

keisur · 05-25-2003, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bumpin' Yota
HTM is the cheapest bar-none (i think) at 18bux per 48x36 sheet, but stinks to holy-hell for the first week. After that first week, the smell is 100% gone.

steve

you got a webpage for this stuff steve? I did a search but I caint find none.

Bob_98SR5 · 05-25-2003, 03:56 PM

Bumpin,

How much do you need to order? I'm sure the 3rd gen is just a little bit bigger so it'll be easy to figure out.

And which stuff should we buy? Here's what I found off the mcmaster website:

And while Keisur and I are at it, where did you buy all your other stuff? Esp the spray foam?

Bob

FattyCBR · 05-25-2003, 07:35 PM

Bob-

I think it's the Polymeric Mastic that is the 4th one down in the first table.

05-23-2003, 06:32 PM	#3 (permalink)
Bumpin' Yota Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Sarasota, FL Posts: 3,638	There are MANY things that you can do. 1. First apply some HiTemp Mastic (found here for CHEAP www.mcmasters.com) on your doors skins. (All 4 doors.) 2. Next pull down the headliner, pull down all the factory applied padding. Fill ALL roof braces with expanding foam (the areas btwn the braces and the roof). Apply HiTemp Mastic to where the padding was in the open areas. Then using spray glue reaffix the factory padding. Replace headliner. 3. Pull all the seats out and anything in the way of pulling out the carpet. Remove the carpet and use 8lb carpet padding btwn the floor of the truck and the carpet. 4. Remove back 1/4 panels and fill unnecessary spaces with expanding foam but BE CAREFUL. Expanding foam takes a while to expand, and it does so VERY forcibly. Only apply about 3" thick layers or so and wait 4 hrs so that it solidifies. If you slammed an entire can in the panel all at once, the next morning you'd have a VERY expanded 1/4panel....so use caution. Ive done all of this (13cans of expanding foam so far) and you can whisper in my truck when Im driving at 80mph and everyone in the truck will hear you. I LOVE it. __________________ 3vze, 4x4, sr5, 90, auto, LSD 2x dB Drag World Finalist 2003 Nopi Nat. Street B champ 2004 SBN Street C champ 2004 SBN Advncd NW Champ 2004 Former WR Holder in NW. SPL: 159.8db @ 42hz In loving memory of Jamie Riggs 5/15/85 - 10/8/04

05-23-2003, 06:38 PM	#4 (permalink)
turboale Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Brooklyn, NY Posts: 4,878	If you do decide to go dynomat find a friend that works for best or circuit city. They mark up the hell out of those things (they can get it real cheap). Good luck! __________________ --Austin 06 M45 Sport - Beauty 96 4Runner - The Beast

05-23-2003, 06:46 PM	#5 (permalink)
Bumpin' Yota Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Sarasota, FL Posts: 3,638	HiTempMastic IS dynamat but WAY cheaper than dealer on Dynamat. I can get both but went with HTM over dynamat due to price. __________________ 3vze, 4x4, sr5, 90, auto, LSD 2x dB Drag World Finalist 2003 Nopi Nat. Street B champ 2004 SBN Street C champ 2004 SBN Advncd NW Champ 2004 Former WR Holder in NW. SPL: 159.8db @ 42hz In loving memory of Jamie Riggs 5/15/85 - 10/8/04

05-23-2003, 09:42 PM	#6 (permalink)
HiLux_1990 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Australia Posts: 150	Yep, strip that baby right down to her firewall and go nuts! Some other materials are: bitumen-based paint (use only high quality) bitumen sheeting ceramic-based paint (high tech stuff) extra thick, multi layered underlay automotive sound deadening foam The bitumen based products obviously have a smell, but you can apply it to your preferred thickness, sheets come in many thicknesses, and it's kind on your wallet. Also I would recommend a layer of foil sheet (ie. thick tin foil or heat shield) on top as bitumen products will stain things. Check with automotive carpet suppliers as they may have some ideas. A company here produces a thick underlay that comprises of underlay-bitumen-underlay. Specialised sound deadening suppliers can also help with special foams and multi-layered underlays. Hmm, I wonder if I'll be able to drop a pin in my truck at highway speeds Dave. __________________ 1990 HiLux Xtra-Cab SR5 4WD BFG ATs, Warn Wheel Flares, ARB Bullbar, CarryBoy Fibreglass Canopy 4 cylinder (22R), manual trans 220,000kms/140,000miles

05-24-2003, 03:57 AM	#7 (permalink)
02Runner Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: SW Fla Posts: 758	I am just finishing up right now. I started yesterday evening after work just removing interior parts. Well, I got it all out and applied "Brown Bread" and Dynamat. I will finish it up this morning, I have to replace a few panels and thr rear seats. The whole prject probably about five hours to finish. The difference is awesome. The ride is quieter than my 740il. Definitely worth every cut and scratch which i now have plenty of. That shizitt's like a razor! Good luck! __________________ 2003 Runner SE / Cruisers 1971,1980,1997(40th) & 2005

05-23-2003, 12:16 AM	#2 (permalink)
DuB Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: The OC Posts: 404	I only have dynamat in the doors, but if u want sound supression, you should go w/ a foam. Deadening materials like dynamat and similar products only weigh down panels, but they still vibrate. You need something that absorbs vibrations to supress road noise and the such. At one time I planned to put in 1/2" foam padding down, but now I'm much too lazy

05-24-2003, 07:57 AM	#9 (permalink)
02Runner Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: SW Fla Posts: 758	No, I didn't take any pics. Sorry guys, don't know what I was thinkin'! It's pretty much straight forward, but I do warn you of those little plastic clips that hold the panels in place. Be gentle when taking them out. If you break the end off of one, its a bizz-itch fixing. __________________ 2003 Runner SE / Cruisers 1971,1980,1997(40th) & 2005

05-24-2003, 01:05 PM	#13 (permalink)
Los Gatos? Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: b Posts: 1,031	Ask and ye shall receive!! Here ya go!!! I hope these pics are okay...it's hard to get a shot, the stuff is pretty thin....30 mils...couldnt' really get a side shot. Andrew (the guy that owns second skin) is a real cool guy, he'll help you out with how much you'll need and stuff like that. __________________ New York City, NYC, pretty mean when it wants to be, black leather, knee hole pants, can't play no highschool dance, fuzz tone, hear 'em go, hear 'em on the radio - R A M O N E S, Ramones OLD: '90 4Runner SR5 auto v6 150k NEW: '85 long bed xtra cab 5spd 22R 200k NEW NEW: '89 Ford Taurus SHO, 137k Miles, 650 miles after I got it : water pump takes a shizzle, now I'm knee deep in a front maintainence from hell. Even broken it's faster than the 4Runner

05-24-2003, 01:16 PM	#14 (permalink)
Los Gatos? Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: b Posts: 1,031	Here's the audio equipment... Crystal CSC60s components (tweeter is at ear level on the front panels) That is the headunit....ooo touchscreen hehe. The trim ring was off in that pic...it looks like it'd be really hard to read, but that's the in the pic, I've never had a problem reading it yet! http://pics.montypics.com/qramius/20...1_DSC00041.jpg Here is the Damplifier Extreme, nice stuff... 60 mils thick, goes on nice 'n' easy. If someone wants to host a movie, I have a good movie of my sub "flexing" hehe... it sure beats the hell out of IFS!!! __________________ New York City, NYC, pretty mean when it wants to be, black leather, knee hole pants, can't play no highschool dance, fuzz tone, hear 'em go, hear 'em on the radio - R A M O N E S, Ramones OLD: '90 4Runner SR5 auto v6 150k NEW: '85 long bed xtra cab 5spd 22R 200k NEW NEW: '89 Ford Taurus SHO, 137k Miles, 650 miles after I got it : water pump takes a shizzle, now I'm knee deep in a front maintainence from hell. Even broken it's faster than the 4Runner

05-24-2003, 01:46 PM	#15 (permalink)
Bob_98SR5 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 10,090	Damn you, guys---my list of mods to do just got a little longer! Actually, Bumpin Yota gave me this advice awhile back but I haven't gotten around to it. After seeing LG's pics, it looks doable. As for the "little plastic clips" 024Runner mentioned, what is the best and easiest way to safely remove them? I remember trying to remove the headliner off my 99 to fix the headliner rattle but after a few tries, I gave up b/c I was afraid to break something. Also, I see three "stick on" products mentioned here: Dynamat, Brown Bread, HiTemp mastic. I'm assuming they are all effective, but which one smells the worst? Which one smells the least? I've read that there are products out there that smell like tar. Also, as BY mentioned, HTM is cheaper than Dynamat. But is HTM cheaper than Brown Bread? Any pics, tips, advice, experience, etc would be greatly appreciated. Bob

05-24-2003, 01:48 PM	#16 (permalink)
Los Gatos? Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: b Posts: 1,031	Second skin is probably the cheapest. It doesn't smell at all, sticks really well, it's FAR more cost effective than Dynamat, I don't know how it compares to brown bread... __________________ New York City, NYC, pretty mean when it wants to be, black leather, knee hole pants, can't play no highschool dance, fuzz tone, hear 'em go, hear 'em on the radio - R A M O N E S, Ramones OLD: '90 4Runner SR5 auto v6 150k NEW: '85 long bed xtra cab 5spd 22R 200k NEW NEW: '89 Ford Taurus SHO, 137k Miles, 650 miles after I got it : water pump takes a shizzle, now I'm knee deep in a front maintainence from hell. Even broken it's faster than the 4Runner

05-24-2003, 04:49 PM	#19 (permalink)
Bob_98SR5 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 10,090	LG and Keisur, Thanks guys for the input, esp the pic of the tool. Looks like my ex-boss' (that b@#ch) tongue! Bob

05-25-2003, 03:56 PM	#24 (permalink)
Bob_98SR5 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 10,090	Bumpin, How much do you need to order? I'm sure the 3rd gen is just a little bit bigger so it'll be easy to figure out. And which stuff should we buy? Here's what I found off the mcmaster website: And while Keisur and I are at it, where did you buy all your other stuff? Esp the spray foam? Bob Last edited by Bob_98SR5; 05-25-2003 at 05:05 PM.

05-25-2003, 07:35 PM	#25 (permalink)
FattyCBR Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Towson, MD Posts: 524	Bob- I think it's the Polymeric Mastic that is the 4th one down in the first table. __________________ Milan _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _ _ _ _ _ Support our troops! '98 4R Limited '82 Toy 4.3, SM465, D20 <- Sold

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