out with the old. in with the new
#22
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Location: N. Stonington, Connecticut
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my amp puts 1200 rms at 1ohm might drop in my 2000 rms @1ohm in tho... im gonna pull the 4gauge power wire i have in there now and run 1/0 to the cap and 4gauge from the cap to amp and 4gauge ground for the amp and 1/0 ground for the cap. when i got the truck i had to start from scrach. and by that i mean i even had to run the B+ to power the head unit.
#23
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Location: Shakopee, MN
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well after hours of talking with rockford fosgate and cruntching numbers and drawing things up i got my box done yesterday. still gotta paint and finish it. but the construction is done. sounds amazing this one 10 is louder and hits harder than two kicker comp 12"s
just finished putting it together
In the truck next to the cap and amp
just finished putting it together
In the truck next to the cap and amp
#25
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i found out that new these speakers retailed at around $700 from rockford. wow. that makes this sub the most expensive thing i own besides the runner.
and it sounds so good. just gos to show you get what you pay for
and it sounds so good. just gos to show you get what you pay for
#27
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scuba i had 2 of the 12 inch cvr which are the next step up in my 4runner and then in my hilux..
people could feel my bass!
but i like having the room in my truck and i mostly listen to talk radio "howard and bubba"
so i got rid of them..
but kicker stuff rocks! bet it sounds great!
people could feel my bass!
but i like having the room in my truck and i mostly listen to talk radio "howard and bubba"
so i got rid of them..
but kicker stuff rocks! bet it sounds great!
#28
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Im also trying to think of a way the i can hold the port in without glue and wont displace any internal space so that i could switch the ports out easily
#29
the port will be flush apon final Assembly. im currently running a 11" long 4" round port. i didn't glue it in right away in case i wanted to switch the port out for a different length(changes the Hz that the box puts out most spl and the sub runs most efficient at). since it wasnt glued in if i pushed it flush with the top of the box it only had 3/4" of friction holding it is and it would vibrate loose and fall into the box with hard base notes.
Im also trying to think of a way the i can hold the port in without glue and wont displace any internal space so that i could switch the ports out easily
Im also trying to think of a way the i can hold the port in without glue and wont displace any internal space so that i could switch the ports out easily
can you glue some sort of flair to the top of it that allows it to rest in the hole but also allows it to be pulled out easily? also why would you want to change out the ports? you should build the box and the port based on your desired hz level tuning the box with the port
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