jjrgr21

i got you on the pin, there is a cotter pin through it under the plate. the 1/4" plate i think i'll beef up to another 5/8" to be safe so that will make it 7/8", and the pipe i'll do the whole triangulation thing which i planned on doing. i could beef that up to 1 1/4"

i'll check out the latch your talking about.

my bumper does flex when i sit on the carrier, but not much. any ideas how to alleviate that.

jjrgr21

so should i just break down and buy the spindle?


and i don't mind criticism if given an explanation why, just to say hook a cable up to it because it's gonna break off and fly down the road doesn't cut it.

SteveO

How about you get us some close up shots of your current hinge setup. I think then, people can give you ideas as to how you can beef it up with some photoshoping.

jjrgr21

ok, i'll do it now

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

and the latches and underneath while you are at it.

SteveO

pictures are not working......

jjrgr21

i can see them

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Nope, red xs.

wjwerdna

i can see them

jjrgr21

jjrgr21

reposted

SteveO

Ohhhh MAMA! You really, need to build a better brace for that hinge. If this is your first time, OK. But, really, do some more research on what others have done, including big names business, and incorporate what they have done for their hinges. That little platform that his holding your grade 8 bolt, will bust off.


I'm not trying to be a jerk about this, I'm just concerned that later down the road, that thing may come off and take somebody out on the highway. That is something you don't want to have on your mind, especially when the lawyers come at you.

wjwerdna

i can tell you've spent some time and taken a lot of criticism in turn.... BUT (sorry ) IMO the 1/8" tabs that bolt and pin go through are way underkill, with time, I believe there will be bends that you will find, and it may not line up well anymore, and although the spring pin is a cool idea, I do not think it is a good idea for this application. I would add a support to the top of the bolt, and completely box in the hinge support with more material. Also possibly wrapping more material around the pivot point of the carrier. On the pin side I would like to see everything at least 1/4"... I think you said there is a cotter pin 'under' the spring pin that keeps it from coming up if the spring were to fail or if the carrier bent in a way that it did not line up anymore, if so, then that looks ok to me. I am not excellent at laying a nice bead, and I know that if you are using a Buzzbox it will look different then mig sometimes, but your welds especially on the clip side do not look strong... I've seen welds break on many things, things I have made while learning to weld at work, things others have done, and things that look strong, but with a good whack with a BFH come right apart... you don't want this to happen, and I would try to get more penetration of the weld... but then again it may all be absolutely fine and it just looks that way to me.....

wjwerdna

k... just saw all the reposted pics after posting last... see the slide/whatever its called pin, looks good... (I don't think thats called a cotter pin, but it's what I envisioned...) ... and 2nd my wanting to see a LOT more material at hinge side, at support, and at pivot point...

BUT you are on the right track, you are making progress, you asked for opinions, and although you have gotten a lot of criticism, I hope that you will take it all to mind and make good improvements on what you have all ready done.

Keep up the good work!

jjrgr21

it's 1/4 the edges are rounded to attempt a cleaner look, i thought it would be enough, but i can beef it up with 5/8", tomorrow. the latch welds will be beefed up too. but building a box around the hinge, i'm not sure how i can do it.

and yeah this is the first time i've done anything like this.

like i said before, my bumper does flex a little bit under leverage with the swing out thingy, how might i take care of this.

jjrgr21

how can i beef up the pivot point


thanks-WJ and steve

jjrgr21

i think i got an idea for it, thanks.

jsnby

when I built my carrier, i used the 1 3/4" spindle from 4x4 labs. It was about $100 shipped. this is the same size and design as the slee hinge.

IMO wouldn't use any other hinge/spindle when building a tire carrier. Like everyone else here has said, you have to overbuild it.

AxleIke

Okay dude,

Do whatever you're big enough to do.

I didn't get on and bash what you'd done, i pointed out a way to help minimize your risk to others. Read my post:

READING THE POST, i said, this will help...IN THE EVENT THAT THE TIRE...

IN THE EVENT doesn't mean "yes it will for sure fall off" it means, "everyone else is talking about these flaws and how it will break, this would alieviate the concern."

I referenced other posts with an okay..., then wished you good luck with the rest of the project, as in, good wishes, hope you get everything figured out. everyone else got on and said it wasn't going to work.

i was trying to help you with a way to make it safe in the event of a break, since you'd already done all that work.

My apologies. next time I'll keep my mouth shut, you can keep your design, and if the tire falls off, it can kill someone, and you can live with that for years. Where's that stupid flip off emoticon when you need one?

Cebby

I can only see Steve O's pics.