spare tire carrier build
#1
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spare tire carrier build
well i wont be doing this for a little while due to lack of funds, but i have decided to more or less copy darren's carrier idea... which is basically 2 larger pieces with a stantion bracket for support.
so i made some chops to decide where to place it...
drivers side is out due to weight (myself and gas tank)... im thinking center looks best, but pass side might be the best way to go weight-wise and for visibility.
i have the hinge from rocklogic already, i emailed to inquire about the lock/latch but they didnt give me an answer yet.
any ideas on where to find a latch?
i have a lot of info on this already, such as properly bracing/supporting the hinge, and i plan on possibly adding yet another cross member to strengthen the frame.
just thought id get the idea train going...
so i made some chops to decide where to place it...
drivers side is out due to weight (myself and gas tank)... im thinking center looks best, but pass side might be the best way to go weight-wise and for visibility.
i have the hinge from rocklogic already, i emailed to inquire about the lock/latch but they didnt give me an answer yet.
any ideas on where to find a latch?
i have a lot of info on this already, such as properly bracing/supporting the hinge, and i plan on possibly adding yet another cross member to strengthen the frame.
just thought id get the idea train going...
#3
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good call, totally forgot about grainger!
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1611749462
thanks.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1611749462
thanks.
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looks great, I would either go with it on the passenger side or center, IMO just doesnt look right on the drivers side.
great chop, Ive been thinking about doing the same since I had mine built, infact Jed built it stronge enought knowing the I may end up doing a tire carrier. thats why I didnt have the bumper powerder coated.
My other delimea is/was gas/water cans and license plate, Ive got the plate figured out, Im thinking about just putting the gas and water on the roof, when I need them.
EDIT:
did you happen to chop a side view ?
great chop, Ive been thinking about doing the same since I had mine built, infact Jed built it stronge enought knowing the I may end up doing a tire carrier. thats why I didnt have the bumper powerder coated.
My other delimea is/was gas/water cans and license plate, Ive got the plate figured out, Im thinking about just putting the gas and water on the roof, when I need them.
EDIT:
did you happen to chop a side view ?
#7
my opinions since i've been down that road...
1. center. that way the extra weight is on both frame rails instead of mostly on one.
2. use a latch that has a rating of at least 1500#. seriously. also, use stainless steel for the latch. paint will wear off, and up there in salt country, you'll replace them annually at best.
go to http://mcmaster.com
Part Number 51335A68
Double-Locking Pull-Action Toggle Clamp SS, 2000# Holding Cap, 2-57/64" H X 7-1/2" L O'all
In stock at $73.40 Each
this is the one you'll want to use. Do yourself a favor and DON'T skimp on the latch.
3. use 1/4" wall tubing for all materials. you will probably want to cut out the OEM tire winch from between the frame rails and add some plating on the frame to stiffen it. i'm going back and adding some 4"x4"x1/4" angle stock from above the coil buckets to the end of the rails on mine as soon as the weather warms up. it will stiffen the frame considerably and also provide a mounting point for my aux fuel tank that i'll build this summer.
4. where are you going to mount your tag? i used a 1990/91 OEM toyota license plate holder from a 4Runner that had the tire carrier. I modified it a little and then attached it to the swing arm. turned out good.
5. what will support the arm at the free end? i would suggest a pad of UHMW on the bumper that the arm will rest on. you will need to drill/tap the bumper, and then drill and coutner-sink some conical-head STAINLESS bolts to hold it down. not a big deal, but it needs to work well, and paint will wear off over time. shouldn't cost more than $20 total for everything.
6. make sure you get the spare high enough off the ground so that you won't drag it on extremely steep climbs. i have mine mounted so that the top is about 1" below the top of the back window trim and that seems to work well. however, the taller you make it, then more leverage that the weight has on the spindle.
pics of my build are at http://4rnr.net
1. center. that way the extra weight is on both frame rails instead of mostly on one.
2. use a latch that has a rating of at least 1500#. seriously. also, use stainless steel for the latch. paint will wear off, and up there in salt country, you'll replace them annually at best.
go to http://mcmaster.com
Part Number 51335A68
Double-Locking Pull-Action Toggle Clamp SS, 2000# Holding Cap, 2-57/64" H X 7-1/2" L O'all
In stock at $73.40 Each
this is the one you'll want to use. Do yourself a favor and DON'T skimp on the latch.
3. use 1/4" wall tubing for all materials. you will probably want to cut out the OEM tire winch from between the frame rails and add some plating on the frame to stiffen it. i'm going back and adding some 4"x4"x1/4" angle stock from above the coil buckets to the end of the rails on mine as soon as the weather warms up. it will stiffen the frame considerably and also provide a mounting point for my aux fuel tank that i'll build this summer.
4. where are you going to mount your tag? i used a 1990/91 OEM toyota license plate holder from a 4Runner that had the tire carrier. I modified it a little and then attached it to the swing arm. turned out good.
5. what will support the arm at the free end? i would suggest a pad of UHMW on the bumper that the arm will rest on. you will need to drill/tap the bumper, and then drill and coutner-sink some conical-head STAINLESS bolts to hold it down. not a big deal, but it needs to work well, and paint will wear off over time. shouldn't cost more than $20 total for everything.
6. make sure you get the spare high enough off the ground so that you won't drag it on extremely steep climbs. i have mine mounted so that the top is about 1" below the top of the back window trim and that seems to work well. however, the taller you make it, then more leverage that the weight has on the spindle.
pics of my build are at http://4rnr.net
Last edited by bamachem; 02-02-2007 at 07:06 AM.
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#8
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thanks for the posts -- not sure when i will begin, i guess whenever i can buy the materials.
no, i didnt get a side view.. if i do ill post it.
i plan to mount my plate to the rim.. i saw a LC that had it done that way using a little metal plate... ill have to find the pic.
1. cool, thats a good point.
2. definitely dont wanna skimp.. i just couldnt find any good latches. i found several that were just far too complex and not strong enough. thanks for the tip, ill pick that up
3. yeah thats the plan, 1/4". I have a crossmember in there already from the bumper build, i may have to put another one in where you are saying. just as insurance if nothing else
4. i answered above... ill post the pic if i can find it
5. i dont know if i get what youre asking but there will be 2 thick arms like this:
. .|
__|__
with a smaller stantion that will go like this \
like this:
thanks for the other info
6: ill have to watch what i do there.. that will probably be one of the harder parts is figuring out exactly how to manage the mounting of the spare.
looks great, I would either go with it on the passenger side or center, IMO just doesnt look right on the drivers side.
great chop, Ive been thinking about doing the same since I had mine built, infact Jed built it stronge enought knowing the I may end up doing a tire carrier. thats why I didnt have the bumper powerder coated.
My other delimea is/was gas/water cans and license plate, Ive got the plate figured out, Im thinking about just putting the gas and water on the roof, when I need them.
EDIT:
did you happen to chop a side view ?
great chop, Ive been thinking about doing the same since I had mine built, infact Jed built it stronge enought knowing the I may end up doing a tire carrier. thats why I didnt have the bumper powerder coated.
My other delimea is/was gas/water cans and license plate, Ive got the plate figured out, Im thinking about just putting the gas and water on the roof, when I need them.
EDIT:
did you happen to chop a side view ?
i plan to mount my plate to the rim.. i saw a LC that had it done that way using a little metal plate... ill have to find the pic.
my opinions since i've been down that road...
1. center. that way the extra weight is on both frame rails instead of mostly on one.
2. use a latch that has a rating of at least 1500#. seriously. also, use stainless steel for the latch. paint will wear off, and up there in salt country, you'll replace them annually at best.
go to http://mcmaster.com
Part Number 51335A68
Double-Locking Pull-Action Toggle Clamp SS, 2000# Holding Cap, 2-57/64" H X 7-1/2" L O'all
In stock at $73.40 Each
this is the one you'll want to use. Do yourself a favor and DON'T skimp on the latch.
3. use 1/4" wall tubing for all materials. you will probably want to cut out the OEM tire winch from between the frame rails and add some plating on the frame to stiffen it. i'm going back and adding some 4"x4"x1/4" angle stock from above the coil buckets to the end of the rails on mine as soon as the weather warms up. it will stiffen the frame considerably and also provide a mounting point for my aux fuel tank that i'll build this summer.
4. where are you going to mount your tag? i used a 1990/91 OEM toyota license plate holder from a 4Runner that had the tire carrier. I modified it a little and then attached it to the swing arm. turned out good.
5. what will support the arm at the free end? i would suggest a pad of UHMW on the bumper that the arm will rest on. you will need to drill/tap the bumper, and then drill and coutner-sink some conical-head STAINLESS bolts to hold it down. not a big deal, but it needs to work well, and paint will wear off over time. shouldn't cost more than $20 total for everything.
6. make sure you get the spare high enough off the ground so that you won't drag it on extremely steep climbs. i have mine mounted so that the top is about 1" below the top of the back window trim and that seems to work well. however, the taller you make it, then more leverage that the weight has on the spindle.
pics of my build are at http://4rnr.net
1. center. that way the extra weight is on both frame rails instead of mostly on one.
2. use a latch that has a rating of at least 1500#. seriously. also, use stainless steel for the latch. paint will wear off, and up there in salt country, you'll replace them annually at best.
go to http://mcmaster.com
Part Number 51335A68
Double-Locking Pull-Action Toggle Clamp SS, 2000# Holding Cap, 2-57/64" H X 7-1/2" L O'all
In stock at $73.40 Each
this is the one you'll want to use. Do yourself a favor and DON'T skimp on the latch.
3. use 1/4" wall tubing for all materials. you will probably want to cut out the OEM tire winch from between the frame rails and add some plating on the frame to stiffen it. i'm going back and adding some 4"x4"x1/4" angle stock from above the coil buckets to the end of the rails on mine as soon as the weather warms up. it will stiffen the frame considerably and also provide a mounting point for my aux fuel tank that i'll build this summer.
4. where are you going to mount your tag? i used a 1990/91 OEM toyota license plate holder from a 4Runner that had the tire carrier. I modified it a little and then attached it to the swing arm. turned out good.
5. what will support the arm at the free end? i would suggest a pad of UHMW on the bumper that the arm will rest on. you will need to drill/tap the bumper, and then drill and coutner-sink some conical-head STAINLESS bolts to hold it down. not a big deal, but it needs to work well, and paint will wear off over time. shouldn't cost more than $20 total for everything.
6. make sure you get the spare high enough off the ground so that you won't drag it on extremely steep climbs. i have mine mounted so that the top is about 1" below the top of the back window trim and that seems to work well. however, the taller you make it, then more leverage that the weight has on the spindle.
pics of my build are at http://4rnr.net
2. definitely dont wanna skimp.. i just couldnt find any good latches. i found several that were just far too complex and not strong enough. thanks for the tip, ill pick that up
3. yeah thats the plan, 1/4". I have a crossmember in there already from the bumper build, i may have to put another one in where you are saying. just as insurance if nothing else
4. i answered above... ill post the pic if i can find it
5. i dont know if i get what youre asking but there will be 2 thick arms like this:
. .|
__|__
with a smaller stantion that will go like this \
like this:
thanks for the other info
6: ill have to watch what i do there.. that will probably be one of the harder parts is figuring out exactly how to manage the mounting of the spare.
Last edited by lee; 02-02-2007 at 08:52 AM.
#9
for #5, when you close the carrier arm to the bumper, you will have a gap between the arm and the bumper where the latch is located. when you latch it down, (and I suggest that you use the latch to pull down) then you have to have something firm for the swing arm to bear down on. i also have a support pad in the center as well. that way, the weight of the arm/spare is distributed to three points to the bumper. the force of the clamp puts pressure between the arm and the UHMW pad to keep things secure.
take a look at this pic:
and this one:
(notice that the "u-bolt clasp" for the clamp is at an angle. the clamp is mounted so that the u-bolt is below the hinge point of the clamp. that way, the physics of the clamp has some "cam-type" action to help keep the clamp closed. also, it has the safety latch to positively keep it latched.)
more here: http://www.4rnr.net/exterior.html
take a look at this pic:
and this one:
(notice that the "u-bolt clasp" for the clamp is at an angle. the clamp is mounted so that the u-bolt is below the hinge point of the clamp. that way, the physics of the clamp has some "cam-type" action to help keep the clamp closed. also, it has the safety latch to positively keep it latched.)
more here: http://www.4rnr.net/exterior.html
Last edited by bamachem; 02-02-2007 at 08:51 AM.
#11
no problem. glad i can help. i researched different ways to do it on and off for at least 6-months before really digging into the muck for another 4-6 months before actually building the bumper.
#12
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yeah i have been reading a LOT.. but each vehicle is different, so when i read something for land cruisers, its different on a jeep which is different on a 4runner
at least the basic components are there.
at least the basic components are there.
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yeah i have been reading a LOT.. but each vehicle is different, so when i read something for land cruisers, its different on a jeep which is different on a 4runner
but do what works for you, I know that Andy has answered alot of questions for me, hes been very helpful, I just need to make up my mind if I want to put a gas can and water can on the bumper,
have you figured out what your going to do for the license plate ?
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yeah like i said, i found a pic of one that mounted a metal plate to the lug holes in the rim, then the lic plate to the metal plate which i like.. i just cant find the damn pic...
if/when i do ill post it up
if/when i do ill post it up
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which side is the hinge going on? think about what side you normally want to access the tailgate from. for example, if you parallel park next to a curb, having the hinge on the drivers side will allow you to load/unload from the curb. you'll want to make some sort of stop so the carrier won't swing into other lanes of traffic, etc
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I see the locking mechanism, what about the hinge mechanism on the other side? There are no pics of the "swinging door hinge". Trying to get a picture in my mind.
My son wants one for his future truck that he is getting in the next couple of weeks.
My son wants one for his future truck that he is getting in the next couple of weeks.
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