Rear bumper brackets on aftermarket swingout

BigBluePile · 08-12-2009, 10:07 PM

Ok, here's the deal: there's a pretty good chance ya'll have seen my rear swingout bumper around:

This bumper, functional yes, has been a pain in my tailgate since the day I tried to install it. Please DO NOT ask me who makes this bumper 'cause I'm not gonna tell you!!!!

I'm not gonna advertise for these clowns any further.

ANYWAYS, the mounts for this bumper were completely NOT thought thru and I tried to fix this issue when I first put the bumper on but to no avail. Now, it's really a problem. These brackets mount on the outside of the framerail and use the factory bumper holes. Because of this, the rear shackles directly contact the bracket and limit spring movement. Not to mention the obnoxious CLANG I get everytime I hit a pothole or flex out on the trails.

Here's the passenger mount from the outside:

Here's the passenger mount from directly behind it looking forward:

Here's the drivers side mount as a whole:

Now, I have two ideas to fix this problem. Number ONE was to have fab'd a one (1) inch spacer for between the bracket and the frame rail and bumper and bracket like these(disregard the little swirl thingy by the sharpie marker...stupid photobucket...):

Here I just used washers to simulate:

From the bottom with washers:

Now, I'm thinking this should work, but I am worried about there not being enough support along the bottom of the frame rail since the bracket is shifted so far over. I could have that lower piece extended an inch to compensate though. Also, will this cause MORE stress to the frame rail since the "lever arm" is longer(ie-it's not up flat on the side of the frame rail but farther out)?? I did oversize the spacers as much as I thought nessasary.

Number TWO. Years ago while engrossing myself in Yota knowlege on 4crawlers(thanks again Roger!!!

) site, I found where he made a kit form for a rear swingout bumper(http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/RearBumper.shtml). Now, I already had the bumper, just needed the mounts, which he sells on their own. I'm revisiting this option. These mounts are like the factory in the way they mount INSIDE the frame rails and are in NO WAY interfering with the shackels.

Basically, I need some help deciding which way I should go. Get the spacers made(yes I could do them myself but since the only "me" time I get is after 8pm using a grinder is a little frowned upon...

) or dump more money into 4crawler stock? LOL!!

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scuba · 08-12-2009, 10:11 PM

KENNESAW MOUNTAIN BUMPER FTMFGDLB

hah

BigBluePile · 08-12-2009, 10:14 PM

lawl

algranger · 08-12-2009, 11:42 PM

Do it right. Buy the 4crawler mounts. Believe me i push the line of ghetto fabrication on my rig and i speak with experience when i say you dont want to have a hack-job spacer weakening everything

BigBluePile · 08-13-2009, 10:48 AM

bump!

Plumbrbob · 08-13-2009, 03:35 PM

the spacer deal seems like a quick fix maybe can be done easy with some steel tube, gussets, and a longer grade 8 bolt cheap, quick, and easy.

If you got the cash get the beefy looking mount FTW

let me ask you something?

do you plan on ever slapping on a set of longer rear spring packs? if you go for the typical after market type(TG,MC,AP) then you need to move the rear shackle mount back.

Now will the cheap fix or the costly fix be clear of that mod?

just looking ahead

ScottyC · 08-13-2009, 03:56 PM

Logan, look in my thread and build some brackets that slide into the frame rail and weld in place. Its the only way to make it strong enough. The brackets are easy to make out of 2x3 .188 or .250 wall tubing.

BigBluePile · 08-13-2009, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Plumbrbob

the spacer deal seems like a quick fix maybe can be done easy with some steel tube, gussets, and a longer grade 8 bolt cheap, quick, and easy.

If you got the cash get the beefy looking mount FTW

let me ask you something?

do you plan on ever slapping on a set of longer rear spring packs? if you go for the typical after market type(TG,MC,AP) then you need to move the rear shackle mount back.

Now will the cheap fix or the costly fix be clear of that mod?

just looking ahead

Rob, true I can do this cheap an easy but I want to make sure it wont cause unnessasary stress to the frame and I think it would "work." As far as upgrading to chevy's I think the bracket would be too close and bind the springs up under flex.

Now with the premade mount from 4crawler it sits inside the framerail and wont be an issue with the current shackel/springs. However, if I slide the shackle mount back it will be in the way unless I put a body lift on and have the bumper bracket just come straight out. Like this:

Also, this mount is easily adjustable to accomodate body lifts if I put one one, by simply moving the holes and cutting down the bracket.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottyC

Logan, look in my thread and build some brackets that slide into the frame rail and weld in place. Its the only way to make it strong enough. The brackets are easy to make out of 2x3 .188 or .250 wall tubing.

Indeed, that's why I was leaning towards 4crawlers design because it went into the framerails like you're saying(WHICH is why I got into an argument with those idiots the "built" this thing in the first place-yup the guy called me a liar on the phone and told me Toyota never mounted, or had, step bumpers that bolted in thru the framerails...).

paynemw · 08-13-2009, 05:47 PM

wait its a KMA bumper... F MY LIFE... i just paid for the downpayment on mine for the 3rd Gen 4runner... DAMN IT!

BigBluePile · 08-13-2009, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paynemw

wait its a KMA bumper... F MY LIFE... i just paid for the downpayment on mine for the 3rd Gen 4runner... DAMN IT!

Bummer dude, hope you get it this year:

http://www.yotatech.com/f2/put-my-dp...-night-163526/

Booooo KMA, BOOOOOOOO!

BigBluePile · 08-20-2009, 05:21 PM

Update, went with 4crawlers(thanks again to Roger for his help!!) mounts and will post when I get this all together.

BigBluePile · 09-10-2009, 06:00 PM

Alright!! Well, I finally got my brackets from 4crawler(no thanks to the post office...lazy). So, today I took the bumper off again and ground off the old mounting brackets on the bumper itself and installed the frame brackets. Now I just have to tack it all together and slave the bumper on for clearances and I'll be able to get this done.

ocdropzone · 09-10-2009, 06:35 PM

hmmm..i am gonna borrow your idea of slipping that c-channel into the frame rail to beef up my rear bumper mounts

BigBluePile · 09-10-2009, 06:43 PM

It wasn't my idea! LOL!! Thank 4crawler or Scotty at AOR, that's how they do they're rear mounts...as well as Toyota!

ocdropzone · 09-10-2009, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigBluePile

It wasn't my idea! LOL!! Thank 4crawler or Scotty at AOR, that's how they do they're rear mounts...as well as Toyota!

either way, it is a good one

I'll just match it up to my Marlin mounts (it is mounted outside of the frame rail) and sandwich the frame between that and the c-channel..

nice thing is that I think I have some c-channel under my work bench that will work. just need a new drill bit..

BigBluePile · 09-10-2009, 06:55 PM

Nice! Just make sure to kinda knock the cornerns off because it's a freakin tight fit to get them into the frame rail.

BigBluePile · 09-12-2009, 03:20 PM

Alrighty. So, I scored a 110v fluxcore wire feed welder from the local pawn shop and today tacked all the bracketry together. Tomorrow, hopefully, I'll be able to tack the bumper on the the brackets and it'll be ready for the pro's to finish welding it. I might add some gussets in places to provide more strength. I've only got ONE problem!! Because my truck DOESN'T have a body lift I can't get the frame brackets out now!

lol! So, I'm either gonna have to take the body mounts apart(which I could do because I have replacement body mounts in hand, just no new hardware) and lift the body up or cut notches in the body frame to get them out.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm...

As you can see, these new brackets will not interfer with the shackels anymore. I may even clear 63" chevys if I go that route.

Theres my little Schumacher EZ flux welder. Works great!

Yes, the tailgate clears when I open it.

Theres the problem, so what do you guys think??

Notch it or pop the mounts?

Nice lookin dual exhaust, eh?? For square 2.5" reciever tubing, it's definately beefier than what use to hold the bumper together.

BigBluePile · 09-12-2009, 06:05 PM

Any thoughts?

ScottyC · 09-12-2009, 07:13 PM

You need to gusset both sides of that plate otherwise it will just bend. This is why I use 2x3 for everything and still gusset it.

BigBluePile · 09-12-2009, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottyC

You need to gusset both sides of that plate otherwise it will just bend. This is why I use 2x3 for everything and still gusset it.

Will do, I was planning on going ahead and putting gussets on the bumper side. For the frame side I'll just have to run a stiffner.

I still have to figure out how to get the darn frame brackets out!!!

algranger · 09-12-2009, 09:40 PM

Lookin good.

I dont see what your problem is there though

RMA · 09-13-2009, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by algranger

Lookin good.

I dont see what your problem is there though

He cant take the brackets out.

Just take the whole truck to who ever is going to weld for you and have them do it like that... with the brackets in the frame .

Dont cut the body , if you really have to take the body mounts off and lift it.

BigBluePile · 09-13-2009, 08:17 AM

Hmmmmm, well I suppose I could drive the truck there. Don't know if I want to truck my tack welds in traffic! lol!! I might just have to lift the body, cutting a notch looks ok?

4Crawler · 09-13-2009, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigBluePile

Any thoughts?

Should be able to turn the bracket to the inside to swing them out of the frame:

Your frame might be a little tighter than normal, if so, see if you can grind out the tack welds and pull out the piece in the frame and grind it down just a little where it is hanging up. I recall once having to grind a little notch back along the channel just at the point where it would hang up on the frame rail, just a small notch to allow the channel to rotate out of the frame rail.

BigBluePile · 09-13-2009, 12:22 PM

Hmmmm, yeah, trust me I tried to bring the bracket toward the center. It's a no-go. I'll probably have to grind the tacks off and notch the bracket in the one spot. The drivers bracket fits in smooth, but the other side not so much. The frame rail has gotta be tweeked a little.

We'll see, I tacked it all together pretty darn well.

08-12-2009, 10:11 PM	#2 (permalink)
scuba Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: WHEELIN BIG BEAR Posts: 6,968	KENNESAW MOUNTAIN BUMPER FTMFGDLB hah __________________ Screw you guys I'm goin to TTORA Mods, please be mature and leave my sig alone, thanks. No, I will not be your friend.

08-12-2009, 11:42 PM	#4 (permalink)
algranger Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Here in the PNW Posts: 3,264	Do it right. Buy the 4crawler mounts. Believe me i push the line of ghetto fabrication on my rig and i speak with experience when i say you dont want to have a hack-job spacer weakening everything __________________ . . . I said lie, for me lying under a process tree . . . .

08-13-2009, 03:35 PM	#6 (permalink)
Plumbrbob Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Tacoma, Washington Posts: 925	the spacer deal seems like a quick fix maybe can be done easy with some steel tube, gussets, and a longer grade 8 bolt cheap, quick, and easy. If you got the cash get the beefy looking mount FTW let me ask you something? do you plan on ever slapping on a set of longer rear spring packs? if you go for the typical after market type(TG,MC,AP) then you need to move the rear shackle mount back. Now will the cheap fix or the costly fix be clear of that mod? just looking ahead __________________ 79 YotA ThinG Mods: http://www.yotatech.com/blogs/plumbr...list-mods.html

08-13-2009, 03:56 PM	#7 (permalink)
ScottyC Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Windsor/Greeley, CO Posts: 1,179	Logan, look in my thread and build some brackets that slide into the frame rail and weld in place. Its the only way to make it strong enough. The brackets are easy to make out of 2x3 .188 or .250 wall tubing. __________________ Scotty http://www.addictedoffroad.com/ 970-420-4198 Toyota Winch bumpers on SALE!

08-13-2009, 05:47 PM	#9 (permalink)
paynemw Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: all over Posts: 105	wait its a KMA bumper... F MY LIFE... i just paid for the downpayment on mine for the 3rd Gen 4runner... DAMN IT! __________________ Matty P 2000 4Runner SR5 4x4 5 spd standard, Magnaflow Catback Exhaust, URD Sensor Simulator, ISR, Deckplate Mod, Black Rock 929 16x7's, custom sliders, KMA Multicarrier, URD stage II clutch kit Will be ordered: ShrockWorks front bumper, OME 3" lift My Build

09-10-2009, 06:35 PM	#13 (permalink)
ocdropzone Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: PDX, OR Posts: 4,700	hmmm..i am gonna borrow your idea of slipping that c-channel into the frame rail to beef up my rear bumper mounts __________________ ~Robb '81 Trekker The B4Runner Build TREKKER Forum Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread TRY THESE SEARCH LINKS GOOGLE FOR TOYOTA WEBSITES LINK TO ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS Drive a real 1st Gen Wheel Responsibly, Don't Screw It Up for Others

09-12-2009, 07:13 PM	#19 (permalink)
ScottyC Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Windsor/Greeley, CO Posts: 1,179	You need to gusset both sides of that plate otherwise it will just bend. This is why I use 2x3 for everything and still gusset it. __________________ Scotty http://www.addictedoffroad.com/ 970-420-4198 Toyota Winch bumpers on SALE!

09-12-2009, 09:40 PM	#21 (permalink)
algranger Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Here in the PNW Posts: 3,264	Lookin good. I dont see what your problem is there though __________________ . . . I said lie, for me lying under a process tree . . . .

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