Tofer

I was able to pick up a set of limiting straps... my thought was to get brackets made to bolt to my shock cross bar (i would reinforce the bar at the same time) and then mount brackets on the axle. then i would have quick release pins so that i can take them out when i am wheelin..... any forseen problems wiht this set up?

here is my only image i have of my shock bar...

i am thinking of putting the mount on the top side of the axle in front of the shocks.

and using RuffStuff tabs at the brackets

locked stock 84

What damage are straps going to prevent while driving on the street, that isn't going to happen off road?

Tofer

they would limit the amount of body roll by keeping the frame from getting too far away from the axle... its not about preventing damage.. its trying to reduce body roll

locked stock 84

instead of a sway bar huh?
huh, well in that case that sounds like a good idea.
this isn't a normal setup?

Pest

Not in place of a roll bar. He want's to use them to act like a sway bar (or anti-sway, rather). When you take a corner, the body will tip to the side a bit, making the truck more likely to roll over when taking a turn at a higher speed, like in an emergency manouver. The sway bar, or straps in this case, are to prevent the body from tipping so much.

Sounds like it would work to me. What kind of straps are you going to use?

slosurfer

The straps may help some but they will not act like an antisway bar. With a swaybar, lets say you are making a driver side turn, your body rolls to the passenger side compressing that sides suspension, which in turn forces the swaybar up on the passenger side and down on the driverside. The downforce from the bar helps keep the wheels on the road.

With straps, it will still feel like driving with no swaybars, when going into the same turn, the body rolls until it reaches the end of the strap, then it actually will lift the wheel up. Since there is no downforce involved it will be very easy for the rolling body to lift the wheel and axle. Of course this is assuming the corner is hard and fast enough to reach the end of the straps. So they may help your body roll some by bringing it to a stop, but once you reached that point you are going to have to be real careful. Just my two cents.

Pest

Touche...

deathrunner

Exactly what I was about to post. I have a lot of travel in the rear and most of it being down travel. Sway has been an issue for me as well. I have decided to run a rear sway bar and removable limit straps. The antiswaybar is to stop the body roll, the additional limit straps are to prevent my suspension from turning the swaybar into a pretzel.

Slosurfer has exactly the right idea. Sorry, won't be a swaybar.

Air bumpstops could potentially be used as a fake swaybar, but they aren't easily removed usuallys. Light Racing has the Jounce shock which is removable, but swaybars are probably cheaper and easier.

AxleIke

You can do what you are trying to do with air bumps.

This will not work the way you want it to. Because limit straps only prevent down travel, and body roll is a symptom of up travel, you will only effect half of the problem. You will still compress on the outter side of the turn (by this i mean, if you are turning right, you will compress on the left side of the truck). You will limit your inner side from unloading, but it will not act like a sway bar, as stated above.

AxleIke

Wow, funny how these things all get said at the same time...

But with regards to the air bumps, why remove them? Thats the whole point is to have something that will limit up travel gradually. They will stop you from swaying on highway conditions, but you can set them to compress to the full extent of the suspension.

deathrunner

As far as I have witnesses, air bumps get exponentially harder to compress (Think torsion bar, but worse) as they near full compression. That's great for the street, but offroad, I'd like every inch of my articulated travel. I think you'd have to set the PSI so low for full flex, that they would not serve the swaybar purpose on the street.

I had thought about this for the front of my truck as well, and the IFS definitely wouldn't be able to fully compress one in a slow speed situation. The Jounce shock unscrews and you can replace it with a screw in poly bump for the trail.

I know Flygenstein runs the air bumps as sway bars. I wonder if he can FULLY compress them in an articulated setting. I'd be curious. Even then, though, he has wider axles giving more leverage.

It's a cool idea none the less. I haven't seen it work, so I can't say that it would.

91muddog

deathrunner, you could rig in a way to simply air them down for off road and simply pump them up for street use.

easiley done with and on board compressor and guage system.

Flygtenstein

Ghetto.

You could run sucker winches as a bandaid, but this is super lame.

I can get to barely negative spring arch crawling, pics to follow when I get back from work.

My air bumps are a fake swaybar. I have a linked rear that is sprung soft and I can rail on this thing. Body lean is not an issue. Full 90 degree rights at 25, as long as your butt has enough traction on the seat.

I have sliders again, but no gas tank or exhaust, so I am a little snookered on trail pics for a while.

I am also no taller than the rest of y'all and on full widths.

Elvota

So... I had no noticeable sway issues with my rig until we went for a big loop through Utah. I put on a shuttle box for extra gear and with the added top weight it became a Weeble-Wobble when cross winds picked up.

I know the shuttle box was the main cause, but it has got me thinking about sway bar setups for the rear. I have been looking at the universal Currie Anti-Rock setup but am having trouble figuring out how it would fit back there.

Sounds like air bumps might be my answer. What companies make a decent air shock for a reasonable price? Seems like you'd need to be able to adjust high and low speed compression for them to work really well in a anti-sway application. Maybe stiffen up the high speed and then adjust low speed really soft for full flex.

Not to hi-jack, but any leads or direct experience with air bumpstops would be appreciated.

Tofer

no hijack.... i'm looking at any option to reduce my body roll.

i havent had nearly the tippsy issues since taking my roof rack that includes Yakima Load warrior with extention, 60" highlift (~100 lbs), 35x12.5 BFG AT (feel like at least 80lbs), shovel, lights (4 KCs, 2 rear facing fog), and a 3 gal gas tank.

Elvota

Wow... ... I thought my shuttle box was pushing it.

Just surfing around checking out the options online. Wondering if you'd need to have the airstops engage almost all the time to prevent sway. If you left a space for example, might the sway "speed up" before it hit's the stop which will in effect slow or dampen the sway... but maybe to late...?

locked stock 84

yeah, thats what I was thinking of
corrected.

Elvota

Some interesting info... at least to me... although rather long

Light Racing Jounce air bumpstops. Available in 1.5" and 3" versions with many mount and contact pad options. Seem to run around $200 each.

From their directions:
What to expect from your JounceShocks-
The JounceShock is the core of a secondary suspension system that dramatically increases the capacity of your vehicle's suspension.

Most systems are designed such that the JounceShocks do not engage the suspension of your vehicle at ride height. Therefore the system does not usually alter the ride height or on-road ride quality of your vehicle.

When you have a heavy payload or take your vehicle off-road, your suspension will compress more and engage the JounceShocks. As the vehicle is driven off-road you will notice a couple of performance gains.... Also, you will realize that the vehicle moves up and down less, "Gross Vehicle Motion Control" as it is called. These are changes caused by the characteristic exponential air spring curve and the critical damping of the JounceShock units. For more discussion on JounceShock function and performance gains please visit our website at www.lightracing.com



Entire install instructions:
http://www.lightracing.com/images/25710_15-INS.pdf

It's possible one might be able to run them lower so they are more active on road. Not sure about running out of travel off road though. Also, these particular airbumps have adjustable rebound and compression via a small 1/8" allen located on the body. That might make "anti-sway" type tuning more possible.

Seems like one could get the 3" version, set them low for axle contact say 90% of the time on road. When they bottom out while crawling, you'd loose the dampening characteristics of the air stop, but would be no worse off than running solid urethane stops at that point. Unless the Jounce shock doesn't like to be bottomed out like that....

deathrunner

I had thought about using the "air" shocks with a compressor, but if I remember correctly, they are fille dwith nitrogen.

Filling them with air introduces moisture which cause corrosion and does not compress very well. So, that was out for me.


Flygt- I'd definitely like to see some pics. Sounds sweet. I don't recall, do you have them on all 4 corners?

Flygtenstein