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Ford 302/351 swap info

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Old 12-13-2005, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jposey66
My truck was built as a marathon 2 month project(front Total Chaos kit, rear chevy springs, and engine conversion all done at the same time), so I didn't have a lot of time to take pics, but here is one of the engine bay. In this pic, there were a few things still left to do, like coil placement, wiring, air filter, fuel lines, and belt. I'll take more when I get it back together. Still working on swapping the mounts to something a little tougher. Also sending the Tranny out for repair.

Posey

NICE!! I see you are running SN95 brackets. Does this give you more space then the fox ones? For those who dont know what I'am talking about the SN95 was Ford's internal code for the body style of the 94-98 Mustangs like the Fox Mustangs from 79-93 and other Fox style chassis. The SN95 with the 302 (94-95 Mustang GT's only) had its own unique timing cover, water pump and accessory brackets which were "thinner" than those of the Fox Mustang what I mentioned above. A couple of problems with that is only those accossories for those two years fit just those cars and the brackets would not allow you to relocate somewhat like the Mark 7 cars. The plus side is that these cars came with higher amperage alternators around 140 amps. The Fox cars came from 60-90 amps and all where external fans. If you look in his picture, the fan is integral.

Sorry for the hijack just thought it would help others on options they may have. Please find more pics!!

James
Old 12-13-2005, 03:56 PM
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Here's a pic of the real fun part. I was determined to go without a body lift and that made getting this baby in here very interesting. Staying away from a body lift and getting the engine as low as possible helps keep the CoG as low as possible, which is a bigger deal when you are running over 70 MPH in the dirt. Check out the custom oil pan. It started out as a fox body double hump oil pan. Cut quite a bit off of the passengers side to clear the front diff and get the engine as low as possible. Also bridged between the two humps to gain the oil capacity back that was lost in previously mentioned mod.

I don't want to scare anyone away from doing a swap. This much oil pan modification is not necessary if you go with a body lift or if you're SAS'd.

Posey

edit.. forgot to mention that the front diff is also lowered about 1/2 inch.


Last edited by jposey66; 12-13-2005 at 03:59 PM.
Old 12-13-2005, 04:24 PM
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Excellent posting guys, and thats not a hijack James... thats the info that should be in this thread.

I'm glad you posted about body lift for fitment... that was going to be the next round of questions.
Old 12-13-2005, 05:50 PM
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James, I didn't answer your question. Yeah, the SN95 accessories provide more room up front. Room that is much needed. From what I have heard, the v8 Explorer accessories are even tighter.

Took me a minute to figure out that you were talking about the alternator fan. :pat:

ColsonCJ, Body lift would make everything a lot easier. As the body goes up, the area where the engine hits the firewall moves back real quick, allowing you to slide the engine back further, giving you more room for a fan or fans up front. With my non-body lift setup, I have to run two small fans. There just wasn't enough room between the end of the water pump shaft and the radiator, to install one large fan.

Posey

Last edited by jposey66; 12-13-2005 at 05:59 PM.
Old 12-13-2005, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jposey66
My truck was built as a marathon 2 month project(front Total Chaos kit, rear chevy springs, and engine conversion all done at the same time), so I didn't have a lot of time to take pics, but here is one of the engine bay. In this pic, there were a few things still left to do, like coil placement, wiring, air filter, fuel lines, and belt. I'll take more when I get it back together. Still working on swapping the mounts to something a little tougher. Also sending the Tranny out for repair.

Posey

Did you use the Ford tranny and did you have to relocate the transfer case if so? I'm looking this thread over closely...
Old 12-13-2005, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jposey66
Here's a pic of the real fun part. I was determined to go without a body lift and that made getting this baby in here very interesting. Staying away from a body lift and getting the engine as low as possible helps keep the CoG as low as possible, which is a bigger deal when you are running over 70 MPH in the dirt. Check out the custom oil pan. It started out as a fox body double hump oil pan. Cut quite a bit off of the passengers side to clear the front diff and get the engine as low as possible. Also bridged between the two humps to gain the oil capacity back that was lost in previously mentioned mod.

I don't want to scare anyone away from doing a swap. This much oil pan modification is not necessary if you go with a body lift or if you're SAS'd.

Posey

edit.. forgot to mention that the front diff is also lowered about 1/2 inch.

Questions. Since the engine sat lower, did you have less clearance for the tranny x-member? When you modified the pan, did you have to modify the pickup tube?

For the other people, the oil pump is up front and the pickup tube goes from front to rear. If you want to run the stock pan you have to use a standard volume oil pump. The high volume oil pump is taller. It will fit certain Mustang oil pans with modifications from 91-93 from what I'am told. Ford revised the pan for the 91-93 and the only way to tell is that the middle of the pan is flat or angled, one of the two I can't remember.

Also the weight of the engine blocks:

Roller production 302: 129 lbs
Roller production 351: 169 lbs
Race block R302: 174 lbs
Non-roller blocks should be roughly the same.

James
Old 12-14-2005, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by jposey66
My truck was built as a marathon 2 month project(front Total Chaos kit, rear chevy springs, and engine conversion all done at the same time), so I didn't have a lot of time to take pics, but here is one of the engine bay. In this pic, there were a few things still left to do, like coil placement, wiring, air filter, fuel lines, and belt. I'll take more when I get it back together. Still working on swapping the mounts to something a little tougher. Also sending the Tranny out for repair.

Posey

am i seeing this right is that a yota radiator in there? looks cleaner than my hack job
Old 12-14-2005, 03:51 AM
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yep, V6 3 row radiator. I have had a couple of instances where the engine wants to run hot, but I think I can fix it by improving air flow(bigger fan/fans) and going to an external tranny cooler. Currently, I am running two 10 inch fans and this setup is working 90% of the time. The engine seems to be really heating up when the tranny is making the most heat. I'll let ya'll know how that goes. Have you ever seen the radiator that is in a 67 or 68 era 289 Mustang? It is about the same size or smaller than these toyota radiators, so I figure I should be able to make this one work.

I used a Ford AOD tranny, mated to a W56 T-case. The T-case is moved back a few inches, but the crossmember is not. The crossmember is in the factory location and is not spaced down. Part of the Advance Adapter kit is a factory Ford piece and that is what the Ford truck crossmembers bolt to. I adapted the Toyota crossmember to the Ford mounting points and the T-case just hangs further back, just like the Ford trucks do. I'll post a pic of this this afternoon.

This oil pickup tube is a custom piece that I fabed. I would call it a divorced pickup. It is actually an integral part of the oil pan now and has a flexible line going from the pump to the pickup. Again, I don't want to scare anyone away from this swap. I did this just to get the engine lower than normal and keep from using a body lift. This is not necessary with a body lift or maybe a SAS.




Posey

Last edited by jposey66; 12-14-2005 at 03:53 AM.
Old 12-14-2005, 06:06 PM
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Here are a couple of pics of the tranny mount, before taking the tranny out, tonight. Crossmember is in the factory spot. The 4runner was originally a V6 Automatic. Chevy guys may recognize the chevy motor mount I used for the tranny mount. One pic shows that the t-case does not hang below the crossmember.

Posey







Old 12-14-2005, 06:17 PM
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yep...I remember that piece for the transfer now that actually has a plate thats predrilled to move the transfer back. thanks for the pics!
Old 12-16-2005, 11:18 AM
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Five Point Ohhhhhhhhhhh !

Oh Im so Happy.

My 22RE Just Died, Re-Built the Top end not even 2 months ago, Timming Chain, New Head, New Exhaust Mainifold, O2 Sensor, Belts, Gaskets and a bunch of other stuff. Was running real good than one day CLACK CLACK CLACK. Bottom end failure.

Im not sinking another Dime into the Underpowered, Over-rated, Barley over 100HP, Expensive to fix POS 22RE.

So I started my Search, "Engine Swaps" I Hate the Vortec 4.3 engine, Ive allready owned a Toyota with a Buick 3.8, 7M and 5M Toy engines are next to impossible to find here and cost an arm and leg, the 2.7 Swap is out as I dont want another 4Banger, 3.4 Toyota swap is to much darn Money, So I was left with SB 350, or 305/302, From all the research I've done the 350 Is to Big to heavy and hard to cool,

So I set my heart on the 5.0L Swap, smaller than a 350 and weighs less, Parts are easy to find and the aftermarket industry is over flowing with stuff for this engine,

Now I allready have a 3" Body lift, so clearance shouldn't be a problem, Can anyone compile a list of cars and trucks with 5.0 Litre Engine's in them. as Id like a complete donor vechile,

Also can I mate the 5.0 to my 4Cyc Auto Tranny ? what about the t-case ? Or am I best off to Buy a 4x4 Truck with 5.0 use the Tranny and t-case outta it (Heck maybe even the Axles?)


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Old 12-16-2005, 11:34 AM
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Page two has a list, James (SRV1) posted it.... might be a good idea to clean it up and make it a table though....

Ford to toyota tranny or tcase will need an adapter.... So Far, my planned setup is this:

Ford 302 -- Ford Auto Tranny --- Toy T-case 2.28 --- Toy T-case 4.1 --- Toy axles

OR

Ford 302 -- Ford Auto Tranny -- NP 203 2:1 -- NP231? 2:1 -- Toy axles

Havent looked a whole lot into the NP t-cases to narrow it down yet....

Last edited by colsoncj; 12-16-2005 at 11:37 AM.
Old 12-16-2005, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by colsoncj
Ford 302 -- Ford Auto Tranny --- Toy T-case 2.28 --- Toy T-case 4.1 --- Toy axles

OR

Ford 302 -- Ford Auto Tranny -- NP 203 2:1 -- NP231? 2:1 -- Toy axles

Havent looked a whole lot into the NP t-cases to narrow it down yet....
My first thought is that the NP203 and NP231 would be longer in length than a Toy t-case. Mated with a V8 and Ford tranny could make for too short of a rear shaft. Also, a chain driven NP231 over a gear driven Toy t-case. I guess the advantage is having to get one less adapter(tranny/t-case) which do tend to be pricey.
Old 12-16-2005, 12:39 PM
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The only reason I would do it would be for the strength issue.... im still determining if the toy cases will handle it.
Old 12-16-2005, 02:03 PM
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Toy gear driven cases are really very strong.
Old 12-16-2005, 02:06 PM
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Thats what i keep hearing... you runnin them with the LT1?
Old 12-16-2005, 03:35 PM
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Toy cases will be fine. Just make sure you go 23 spline all the way through and consider upgrading the input and outpush shafts via Marlin.
Old 12-16-2005, 03:55 PM
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Yup.

See this thread for others:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...-case+strength
There are plenty of people who run Toy cases with V8s and 38s+. They hold up well although like anything breakage happens.

I know I'd like to have a 4.7 gearset in there eventually.
Old 12-16-2005, 06:38 PM
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after the stuff i put my yota t-case through im going to have to say you will be fine with them and im only running a 21 spline
Old 12-16-2005, 07:02 PM
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what kinds of adapters are you guys usin?


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