Double Cardan Angle? | Rear Leafs?
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Double Cardan Angle? | Rear Leafs?
ok, so I have 2 questions.
1. I have a driveline angle of 15* right now and am getting a grinding noise at high speed. I plan on getting the driveshaft reversed and a double cardan joint put on next thursday, but what angle does the rear diff need to be once the CV is on? which takes me to 2. how do I tilt the rear diff when I have all the control arm crap mounted to the axle? I could get adjustable upper links but those only adjust to 1" longer then stock? ..... so how many of you have gone rear leafs? i've seen that sschaefer3 and steveO have both done it but how easy is it on a 2nd gen? also how much would it cost to get it done by a shop? cause I don't have anyway of doing most of the work myself..
thanks for your help guys!
1. I have a driveline angle of 15* right now and am getting a grinding noise at high speed. I plan on getting the driveshaft reversed and a double cardan joint put on next thursday, but what angle does the rear diff need to be once the CV is on? which takes me to 2. how do I tilt the rear diff when I have all the control arm crap mounted to the axle? I could get adjustable upper links but those only adjust to 1" longer then stock? ..... so how many of you have gone rear leafs? i've seen that sschaefer3 and steveO have both done it but how easy is it on a 2nd gen? also how much would it cost to get it done by a shop? cause I don't have anyway of doing most of the work myself..
thanks for your help guys!
Last edited by Mikronized; 04-15-2004 at 10:42 AM.
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i'm no driveshaft scientist, but i believe you want the rear diff to point at the t-case output flange for a cv shaft.
i think that the easiest way to go to rear leaves is to ditch the stock axle housing and find a '86-95 rear off a truck and then just weld hangers to the frame. then again, it might not because it sounds like you'd want to redo the perches anyway(for more pinion angle)
i think that the easiest way to go to rear leaves is to ditch the stock axle housing and find a '86-95 rear off a truck and then just weld hangers to the frame. then again, it might not because it sounds like you'd want to redo the perches anyway(for more pinion angle)
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Originally Posted by kyle_22r
i'm no driveshaft scientist, but i believe you want the rear diff to point at the t-case output flange for a cv shaft.
I just don't know
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Originally Posted by Mikronized
that's what I thought too, but the local driveline guy said not because then the needles will wear a dead spot because of a lack rotation in the ujoint.
I just don't know
I just don't know
The next thing, get some 4" All-Pro leafs, and do the conversion. Or talk to Schaefer about his setup with Chevy leafs. I would think he speced out some smaller leafs before going with the 63" mongo leafs. However, if you don't get the axle just right when you weld on the upper perches, you'll experience the driveline problem still. Then the pinion bears wear out, and the t-case wears out, a whole host of fun issues.
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The leaf spring conversion on the second gen is far superior to the coil spring suspension. The job is not terribly difficult but it is quite time consuming. You'll have a hard time finding a shop to do this kind of work due to liability issues. You may want to talk to the guys at Allpro about doing the work for you.
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Originally Posted by Mikronized
the local driveline guy said not because then the needles will wear a dead spot because of a lack rotation in the ujoint.
On the angle topic, yes if using a CV at the transmission end you want the pinion to be pointing at (actually 1-2° BELOW for a rear axle) the transfercase output. This is to account for the axle rotating up under load.
On the perches vs axle swap, you'll have to redo them either way to get the proper angles so just keep what you have and make it work.
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Originally Posted by upndair
You may want to talk to the guys at Allpro about doing the work for you.
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Originally Posted by Shane
Find a new driveline guy, quick! In fact, just talk to Jesse.
On the angle topic, yes if using a CV at the transmission end you want the pinion to be pointing at (actually 1-2° BELOW for a rear axle) the transfercase output. This is to account for the axle rotating up under load.
On the perches vs axle swap, you'll have to redo them either way to get the proper angles so just keep what you have and make it work.
On the angle topic, yes if using a CV at the transmission end you want the pinion to be pointing at (actually 1-2° BELOW for a rear axle) the transfercase output. This is to account for the axle rotating up under load.
On the perches vs axle swap, you'll have to redo them either way to get the proper angles so just keep what you have and make it work.
Click on the photo to see more....
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