bayrunner

Hey Guys____ I understand that the Toyota solid front axels weak point is the Birfied –type CV joint. I also heard that there are custom builders making a conversion, a Dana 60/knuckles which the Toyota’s smaller front axels would be a perfect candidate. Has anyone tried the conversion, and what’s the dope on it .____ THANKS BAYRUNNER

Robinhood150

You'll get more replies here.

Allpro has that axle, check them out. $$$$

crawler#976

yup, it's a weak point.

I don't think going to a D60 hybrid is required unless your running 5+ and over trails. The stock Toy axle can be built up for a lot less $$$.

You have several options available that make a Toy axle stronger than any Dana 44.

First, after market Birf's- the best are from Bobby Long. Here is a reveiw of the product: http://www.pirate4x4.com/productreviews/superbirfield/
All Pro sells Profield's- the jury is still out on them. I have a set of Profields in the tool box for spares.........

The next step up is to swap out the inner axle shafts. Several company's make alloy steel shafts- the strongest are from Poly Performance: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ght=pigs+axles

Bobby Long also sells treated stock inners, All Pro sells Chromo inner axles, so you have a variety of products available.

The next weak point becomes the carrier itself. If I knew then what I know know, I would not have put a Detroit locker up front. They are prone to breaking if an inner axle snaps- the recoil energy destroys a Detroit. I'd go with either an ARB or spool- with the advantage going to the ARB if you don't have hydro assist steering, the spool if you do.

Which brings up the last item- hyrdo assist or full hydro steering. A daily driver would be better off w/ the assist like the kit sold by Rock Stomper. It's next on my list of mods. Full hydro steering is great if you don't drive on asphalt, but has very poor handling on hard surface driving, and little or no return to center.

So far, I've only swapped out birf's- the other mods are not required for most wheeler's. Having the super Birf's is like getting cheap insurance against having to do trail repairs. I've run everything I want to with no failures (there, I've put the whammy on myself again). After breaking a stock birf at 2:00AM 60 miles from home, I realized I don't really want to play in the grease again that late at nite.

later

bayrunner

Hey Crawler#976___________ Thanks for links, new to Yota”s, learning fast, I take it from your thread you like the longs (old style or new) and are the old style still available, from what I understand the new longs are questionable (brittle).Anyway, I’m going let my funds point the direction on this one, and it seems the Pro Chromos and probably the old style longs (if available) seems to be the way to go $$$ wise. Great site_________ THANKS BAYRUNNER

crawler#976

The old style Long's are available from Bobby by request.

The only draw back to Long's old style is a slight loss of turning radius when they are set up correctly.

There is good info on the setup in the Pirate Toy Faq's section. Part of the setup is getting the steering stops set and reinforcing the stops on the axle itself. I found that a 5/8-11 nut fits into the V quite tight- I had to drive them in with a hammer. After they were in I welded them in place. If you don't have a welder, the V bracket can be peaned over w/ a hammer to retain'm. With out the reinforcement, the V bracket will deform badly, and throw out the settings for the stops- and that breaks stuff.

later

crash

I have to dissagree with this, sure, the toy diff can be built pretty strong, but the d44 is still stronger. The toy diff is a hypiod gear set, and smaller than a d44.. I have broken 2 toy arb's now, and the 44 is holding up nicely, but, if you want beef, go dana60 all the way (I will try to click a couple pics of my toy arb next to the new dana60 arb). Now, you have the option also on the dana 400, chromo's and ctm's which IMO are stronger than any birf, and I can tell you from experiance, have seen more longs go boom than any chromo's. Plus, the turning radius kicks butt on a d44 over a toy!

I used to be a BIG believer in the toy stuff, but I have seen the light overthe course of the last 10 years, and granted they are good, I would never waiste any of my $$$ on one....

crawler#976

On the flip side, I've seen several busted D44 on trails we just cruze thru. U-Joint's seem to go pop pretty frequently, but then again they were stock, not CTM's.

Also, I like the narrower width for the AZ trails....although I admit to running 1-1/2 spacers up front and 3/8 in the rear

The AZ. hard core guys are all getting away from Toy axles. They're swapping them for D60, D70 and 14 Bolts. They've reached and exceeded the limit of Toy axle strength on trails like The Matrix.

Unless you plan on running trails of that caliber, I don't think it's needed.

crash

The front stocker shafts that you have seen go pop, I will put $$$ on it that the caps popped out the shaft then the shaft went boom, thats what 90% of all the failures are when you run stockers without welding the caps in..

Of course, there is another input to the equation,l what type of suspension you run. Leafs have a tendancy to lessen the shock load to the drivetrain (unless you run a torque bar) as aspossed to a full awn link system. That was the major reason I finally dumped the rear toy and went with a pro-rock 60, because I knew for sure it would go boom (and indeed it was broken when I pulled it out last week)...

But you are correct, it comes down to how you wanna use it, and what kind of terain you plan on running.... And all my experiance is from doing, not reading,lol...

crawler#976

what broke on the rear?

crash

Broke the cross pins in it again, and fractured the case, whoooopsie!!!

So, now I get a high pinion, as much ground clearance as my toy and 35 spline!!!!

Hopefully the front will come after the end of summer...