1985 Waggy 44 - If money were no object, how would you build it?
05-25-2005, 07:08 PM
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1985 Waggy 44 - If money were no object, how would you build it?
Hey guys,
If money were no object and I had a Dana 44 front axle to be used for my SAS, how would you build it up? What axles? Basically, what parts would you buy to build it up as the ultimate Dana 44 front end? I know that I want a ARB front locker and Dana equivalent(close) to 5.29 gears, and other than that, I've done very little research on the subject, so this is my initial starting point. I'm thinking about gradually building the axle up till it's ready to go, and then perform my SAS, probably either a spring over axle or might possibly a coilover front suspension. It's all up in the air right now.
Chris
If money were no object and I had a Dana 44 front axle to be used for my SAS, how would you build it up? What axles? Basically, what parts would you buy to build it up as the ultimate Dana 44 front end? I know that I want a ARB front locker and Dana equivalent(close) to 5.29 gears, and other than that, I've done very little research on the subject, so this is my initial starting point. I'm thinking about gradually building the axle up till it's ready to go, and then perform my SAS, probably either a spring over axle or might possibly a coilover front suspension. It's all up in the air right now.
Chris
05-25-2005, 08:12 PM
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if money was no option, i'd build a ford 9" with dana 60 knuckles 
however with a 44, i'd start with an ARB and 5.13 or 5.38 gears(no 5.29 for dana axles), CTM u-joints and superior shafts. warn hubs are a good investment here, unlike on a toy axle.
building slowly is definitely a good idea. get everything done right and having it the way you want rather than building it fast and tearing it apart a few times and spending a lot more money in the end...
however with a 44, i'd start with an ARB and 5.13 or 5.38 gears(no 5.29 for dana axles), CTM u-joints and superior shafts. warn hubs are a good investment here, unlike on a toy axle.
building slowly is definitely a good idea. get everything done right and having it the way you want rather than building it fast and tearing it apart a few times and spending a lot more money in the end...
05-26-2005, 02:15 AM
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Ok, so here's the recommended list so far:
1) ARB front locker
2) 5.38 Ring & Pinion
3) CTM U-Joints
4) Superior Evolution Series Cro-mo Axles
5) Warn Hubs
Ok, is that all I need to do to an old axle to make it perfect? What about bracing and rock protection?
Chris
1) ARB front locker
2) 5.38 Ring & Pinion
3) CTM U-Joints
4) Superior Evolution Series Cro-mo Axles
5) Warn Hubs
Ok, is that all I need to do to an old axle to make it perfect? What about bracing and rock protection?
Chris
05-26-2005, 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ravencr
Ok, so here's the recommended list so far:
1) ARB front locker
2) 5.38 Ring & Pinion
3) CTM U-Joints
4) Superior Evolution Series Cro-mo Axles
5) Warn Hubs
Ok, is that all I need to do to an old axle to make it perfect? What about bracing and rock protection?
Chris
1) ARB front locker
2) 5.38 Ring & Pinion
3) CTM U-Joints
4) Superior Evolution Series Cro-mo Axles
5) Warn Hubs
Ok, is that all I need to do to an old axle to make it perfect? What about bracing and rock protection?
Chris
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05-26-2005, 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by redplastic2p3t
get ahold of joe darlington, he knows what to do, id be doing the same thing that he did to his rodeo
Chris
05-26-2005, 03:59 AM
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05-26-2005, 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by bamachem
Chris
05-26-2005, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by bamachem
He already swapped over to the CTM u-joints and Superior axles and then also changed the steering shaft to a modified FJ-62 shaft. Those changes are included in the list.
Chris
05-26-2005, 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by bamachem
those are the things (that i know of) that he changed after the SAS.
Chris
05-26-2005, 04:52 AM
#15
the superior axles are the schiznit according to steve - as in NEVER breaking them w/ his 315's. the toyota rear axles are a little beefier than the front stock D44's, and he doesn't think he'll have any problems w/ them. since he thinks this setup is about as close to indestructable as you can get w/ 35's on a 3rd gen, you'd probally still be "safe" w/ 37's considering where you wheel and your skill level w/ a wrench. however, w/ 37's and 5.29's, that thing might be a DOG on the street and not be geared low enough for serious wheeling. better plan on a twin-stick for sure. you do have a DD, don't you? what about a tow rig? 
Last edited by bamachem; 05-26-2005 at 04:53 AM.
05-26-2005, 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by bamachem
the superior axles are the schiznit according to steve - as in NEVER breaking them w/ his 315's. the toyota rear axles are a little beefier than the front stock D44's, and he doesn't think he'll have any problems w/ them. since he thinks this setup is about as close to indestructable as you can get w/ 35's on a 3rd gen, you'd probally still be "safe" w/ 37's considering where you wheel and your skill level w/ a wrench. however, w/ 37's and 5.29's, that thing might be a DOG on the street and not be geared low enough for serious wheeling. better plan on a twin-stick for sure. you do have a DD, don't you? what about a tow rig?
Chris
05-26-2005, 05:34 AM
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I have the Warn Diff Cover Skid Plate, which is the only thing I would change. After dealing with MAD4WD in Ohio, Jason tipped me off to the Rockcrusher diff covers they carry.
That is the one and only upgrade I may do someday, so far everything is doing fine.
Plan on a good $300-400 for all the Timken brearings and seals as well as new ball joints, which are a super pain to change, so plan on paying to have that done.
That is the one and only upgrade I may do someday, so far everything is doing fine.
Plan on a good $300-400 for all the Timken brearings and seals as well as new ball joints, which are a super pain to change, so plan on paying to have that done.
05-26-2005, 05:47 AM
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Bearings and seals first along with cleaning up the axle, rebuilt it to new condition. Figure out your steering and if you will change the knuckles.
Then gears and locker
Finally axles and U-Joints.
Three equal cost points.
Then gears and locker
Finally axles and U-Joints.
Three equal cost points.
