Whats the best way to lift the front of a Gen II
#21
Registered User
This is the flex I am getting out of 1.5" ball joint spacers in the front
Overall I like the flex it has alot more down travel now.
Flex out of FJ80 coils in the back.
Overall a big improvement over stock.
I have no swaybars so it gives you alot more travel as well.
Overall I like the flex it has alot more down travel now.
Flex out of FJ80 coils in the back.
Overall a big improvement over stock.
I have no swaybars so it gives you alot more travel as well.
Last edited by 934rnr; 06-06-2004 at 08:04 AM.
#22
Registered User
Wow, even I'm impressed and I designed the things!
I brightend up two of the pictures so you can better see what the front tires are doing.
Frank
I brightend up two of the pictures so you can better see what the front tires are doing.
Frank
Last edited by elripster; 06-06-2004 at 07:45 PM.
#26
Registered User
Honestly I haven't spent alot of money on lifting my truck it's about less than $400 into my lift to fit 33's adequately.
Here's basically a lift breakdown for you:
Front
$90 1.5" ball spacers(same size as ellipsters got them from a guy Baja Mex I got some hardware for them but I had to buy new stuff)
When I bought mine these were the only ones available that someone had ready to buy.
I would buy the kit from ellipster it's worth it to have all the hardware.
$80 Rancho 5000 RS5187 shocks (front)
$30 energy low profile upper and lower bump stops (You can basically keep your stock upper bumpstops just get lower low profile ones)
Free Aisin Manual hubs you can usually pickup a set for about $50(You will need these because your front CV's will bind. It's also less drag you will have not turning the CV's all the time on the HWY)
Rear
$20 set of used FJ80 low side coils (for rear)
$80 Rancho 5000 RS5017 shocks (rear)
$40 lengthened panhard rod (Basically you can buy a procomp "4 lift panhard drop bracket for about $70 from procomp)
$1 Extended rear brakeline (I used another brake hose from a rear of a truck and put them together. You can usually find one in the junkyard)
I made my own body-lift using a friends 3" lift blocks that I had cut in half. I think I spent about $30 tops for the grade 8 hardware. You should probably spend the money and get a Rodger Brown 1-2" body-lift because if you haven't done a body-lift before getting a kit with instructions from someone will be alot easier.
Here's basically a lift breakdown for you:
Front
$90 1.5" ball spacers(same size as ellipsters got them from a guy Baja Mex I got some hardware for them but I had to buy new stuff)
When I bought mine these were the only ones available that someone had ready to buy.
I would buy the kit from ellipster it's worth it to have all the hardware.
$80 Rancho 5000 RS5187 shocks (front)
$30 energy low profile upper and lower bump stops (You can basically keep your stock upper bumpstops just get lower low profile ones)
Free Aisin Manual hubs you can usually pickup a set for about $50(You will need these because your front CV's will bind. It's also less drag you will have not turning the CV's all the time on the HWY)
Rear
$20 set of used FJ80 low side coils (for rear)
$80 Rancho 5000 RS5017 shocks (rear)
$40 lengthened panhard rod (Basically you can buy a procomp "4 lift panhard drop bracket for about $70 from procomp)
$1 Extended rear brakeline (I used another brake hose from a rear of a truck and put them together. You can usually find one in the junkyard)
I made my own body-lift using a friends 3" lift blocks that I had cut in half. I think I spent about $30 tops for the grade 8 hardware. You should probably spend the money and get a Rodger Brown 1-2" body-lift because if you haven't done a body-lift before getting a kit with instructions from someone will be alot easier.
Last edited by 934rnr; 06-07-2004 at 08:23 AM.
#27
Registered User
I can honestly say I can go alot more places now than before when it was stock.
I still haven't installed my rear lockright locker they are about $200 that's about as cheap as they come for bolt in lockers. I'll probably do that this weekend along with my rear pinion seal.
I still haven't installed my rear lockright locker they are about $200 that's about as cheap as they come for bolt in lockers. I'll probably do that this weekend along with my rear pinion seal.
Last edited by 934rnr; 06-07-2004 at 09:20 AM.
#28
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[QUOTE=elripster]I say go with the spacers, whatever you want for equivalent lift in the rear, the BL, and use all the dough you saved for gears and lockers. Gears and lockers are what will really make the difference on the trail.
I have to second elripster on the lockers, in fact Robinhood mentioned earlier about people being known to take on the Rubicon with a certain lift and 33s, I was able to tackle the Rubicon without ANY lift, 31s, stock ADD, and an open front diff. The only real mod I had to my truck at the time was an ARB in the rear (OK, so I took the bypass around the big sluice) but, combine the locker with some great spotting by people who know the trail and you can really do some amazing things with our trucks!
If your goal is to get out on some of the harder trails quick, do the locker and gears first, then, start adding spacers/lift/bigger tires so you stop scraping the underside of your truck and bumper all over the rocks.
I have to second elripster on the lockers, in fact Robinhood mentioned earlier about people being known to take on the Rubicon with a certain lift and 33s, I was able to tackle the Rubicon without ANY lift, 31s, stock ADD, and an open front diff. The only real mod I had to my truck at the time was an ARB in the rear (OK, so I took the bypass around the big sluice) but, combine the locker with some great spotting by people who know the trail and you can really do some amazing things with our trucks!
If your goal is to get out on some of the harder trails quick, do the locker and gears first, then, start adding spacers/lift/bigger tires so you stop scraping the underside of your truck and bumper all over the rocks.
#29
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Well I was doing some searching and found this thread... I was thinking about getting the BJ spacers and fj80 coils and all that. The only thing is that I have a automatic transmision and I heard that there are no body lifts for automatics on a 2nd gen 4runner. Would I be able to fit 32's without the body lift and this set up? thanks,
John
John
#30
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You should be able to fit 32s without minor mods. Right now, I have 32x11.50 Yokos with only minor rubbing. For offroading though, you'd probably want to tighten up the tbars and maybe due some minor valance trimming. Unless the back is sagging pretty bad, it should be fine.
Heres a pic of mine stock, with 31s
And heres a pic with 32s
You can tell, its not that big of a difference. Since then I put my spare back beneath and now I can REALLY see the sag
Heres a pic of mine stock, with 31s
And heres a pic with 32s
You can tell, its not that big of a difference. Since then I put my spare back beneath and now I can REALLY see the sag
#32
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You don't need to do anything to fit 32s. 32s fit stock.
What are your intentions? Do you just want to fit bigger tires? Do you just want to get rid of the sag? Do you just want the look of a lifted truck? Or do you plan on doing some moderate to hardcore off roading?
If you just want to get rid of the sag, go with downey coils. Roger Brown makes BLs for auto trannies.
What are your intentions? Do you just want to fit bigger tires? Do you just want to get rid of the sag? Do you just want the look of a lifted truck? Or do you plan on doing some moderate to hardcore off roading?
If you just want to get rid of the sag, go with downey coils. Roger Brown makes BLs for auto trannies.
#33
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No, not yet. I planned on going with 33s, a mild bl, cruiser coils and bj spacers. I really needed tires though, and didn't have money for wheels so decided to go for 32s since I could run them on stock rims. I plan on doing the cruiser coil/spacer lift in the future, but I think 32s will look pretty small with it.
#35
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32s aren't that much bigger really so you dont need to do much at all to fit them for wheeling: omes or downeys in the rear and tbar crank or spacers up front. Spacer would give a better ride, but they might create a saggy look in the back again.
If you're going for 33s though, the concensus is a 1-2" BL (I talked to people that said minor trimming was all that was needed for mild wheeling), cruiser coils (or omes/downeys and a spacer) and balljoint spacers. Thats what I was planning but I didn't want to run a 33x12.50 on stock wheels and didn't have the $$ to get wheels before I needed tires.
If you're going for 33s though, the concensus is a 1-2" BL (I talked to people that said minor trimming was all that was needed for mild wheeling), cruiser coils (or omes/downeys and a spacer) and balljoint spacers. Thats what I was planning but I didn't want to run a 33x12.50 on stock wheels and didn't have the $$ to get wheels before I needed tires.
#36
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Try to talk to 4runner4ever, hes got the cruiser coil lift with 31's I think. He could probably send you some pics of that to show how much lift they provide.
#37
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Originally Posted by Johnboy
. The only thing is that I have a automatic transmision and I heard that there are no body lifts for automatics on a 2nd gen 4runner.
John
John
3" Body Lift on my 1991 AUTOMATIC 4Runner, Roger Brown sells and adapter for the Auto Linkage
#38
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Originally Posted by s_wall98
32s aren't that much bigger really so you dont need to do much at all to fit them for wheeling: omes or downeys in the rear and tbar crank or spacers up front. Spacer would give a better ride, but they might create a saggy look in the back again.
If you're going for 33s though, the concensus is a 1-2" BL (I talked to people that said minor trimming was all that was needed for mild wheeling), cruiser coils (or omes/downeys and a spacer) and balljoint spacers. Thats what I was planning but I didn't want to run a 33x12.50 on stock wheels and didn't have the $$ to get wheels before I needed tires.
If you're going for 33s though, the concensus is a 1-2" BL (I talked to people that said minor trimming was all that was needed for mild wheeling), cruiser coils (or omes/downeys and a spacer) and balljoint spacers. Thats what I was planning but I didn't want to run a 33x12.50 on stock wheels and didn't have the $$ to get wheels before I needed tires.
on 31 X 10.5 X 15 tires. I wheel at Tellico quite often and do not have a problem. I intend to go with 32" tires but only when these 31 need to be changed. The damage to the rear bumper in the first picture happened before the Downey rear coils - at Tellico. I'm in Maryville, TN
The 1" RB body lift was pretty easy to install - took me about 2 hours. The 2nd generation fron bumper mounts can be drilled a little higher to get rid of the gap - I did mine. The rear bumper comes up with the body.
Check out my custom tool box - I moved the spare underneath - I also carry extra spare front CV shafts - where the spare tire is mounted.
http://community.webshots.com/script...umID=214390246
s-wall - South eastern 4 runner jam at Tellico May 13, 14 and 15th
what a grat time we have - good people too. Come on along !
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