HELP with LIFT?!!
07-28-2005, 08:51 AM
#22
Its about $200 for parts for a 3" A/T body lift, less for lower heights and you can install it yourself and save $300:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ft.shtml#GenII
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ft.shtml#GenII
07-30-2005, 03:35 PM
#23
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ok for the front you cant get 5-6 inches out of a mostly stock front end...cranking the t-bars will only get you an inch or two (depending on how low its sitting to start with up front), and the max you should crank them will leave 15" b/w the top of the rim and the top of the arch in your fender...this saves your cv joints from gettin shot . then the balljoint spacers are only made up to 1.5 inches, so thats only like 3 inches. after that theres nothing else to do up front... so you either get an IFS front lift kit, or do an SAS to get 5-6". in the REAR, along w/ the coils, youre probly gonna need new control arms to move the axle back where it is supposed to be, plus longer brake lines, plus a track bar drop bracket, plus a proportioning valve relocation bracket, plus new shocks. So, if youre a college student, like I am, and youre trying to save money, I'd stick to a smaller lift for now, like the cranked tbars, BJ spacers, and maybe a coil spacer and 1 inch lift coil in the back... that will easily fit 33"s
Last edited by SoFly; 07-30-2005 at 03:37 PM.
07-31-2005, 08:51 AM
#24
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i can get some downey tbars and crank them a good bit i heard and it wouldnt be that bad? and all those contral arms and brackets which of those is absolutely neccesary? can i drive and stuff with out it?
07-31-2005, 09:25 AM
#25
Running a bigger torsion bar will not get you any more lift than stock. Sure, you won't have to crank them up as far for the same lift, but the limit is still the stock front suspension geometry. There is only so much up and down travel possible. Cranking up the front simply is changing where in that up-down range you are sitting at. Crank the t-bars up to the max. and you'll be sitting on the droop bumpstops and have an insanely rough ride. This is the reason the 4" and taller IFS lift kits include drop brackets and spindles to lower everything down for the lift. The other option is a long travel front end, longer a-arms - more up-down travel and more lift possible. With IFS and rear coils, you can eitehr lift it a little (for a modest cost) and fit 33s or you can drop a huge pile of money into it to go higher.
08-01-2005, 02:19 PM
#26
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ok if youre gonna drop your rear axle 5-6", i would HIGHLY recommend longer control arms. if you dont...1. your rear axle will sit way forward of where it is supposed to...2. every time you stuff your right tire, your drive shaft is gonna hit the gas tank 3. more articulation comes from that much lift, so if you dont change your control arms to ones like from All Pro Offroad with more flexible attachment points, you are VERY likely to rip one of the control arm brackets off of your car; then youre SOL ....the best way to go about that is to get longer control arms, but there is a (in my opinion) less capable way of fixing that prob, and that is to get control arm drop brackets, but that puts the arms in danger of rocks and stuff... whatever though...and one more thing, you will NOT get 4,5,or 6 inches of lift from just cranking the tbars .... good luck with it man
08-01-2005, 05:14 PM
#27
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WOAH! Let's clear up a lot of confusion here...
1 - The max you can crank up your front suspension with stock, aftermarket or magic torsion bars is 1.5"... That is MAX. Any more, as stated, will destroy your front CV's.
2 - a BallJoin spacer is a replacement for cranking up the torsion bars. You cannot add a 1.5" spacer on top of a 1.5" Torsion Bar crank and get 3" of lift and expect your shafts to last more than to the end of the driveway.
3 - STOP... STOP... STOP... trying to match the front suspension to a rear lift. Figure out what to do up front first, then do the back.
4 - If you think a body lift is too expensive because of the Automatic tranny bracket (which is like $20 when I bought it), then you are in for a shock when looking at suspension prices.
5 - STOP... STOP... STOP... looking at the rear lift first. Have I mentioned that yet?
6 - Are you planning to install this yourself? Or have it installed? If you plan to have it professionally installed, double the price of the kit.
7 - What size tire do you want to run? Plan on new wheels as well.
Take heed at the advice given by Roger and others... It's very solid advice.
1 - The max you can crank up your front suspension with stock, aftermarket or magic torsion bars is 1.5"... That is MAX. Any more, as stated, will destroy your front CV's.
2 - a BallJoin spacer is a replacement for cranking up the torsion bars. You cannot add a 1.5" spacer on top of a 1.5" Torsion Bar crank and get 3" of lift and expect your shafts to last more than to the end of the driveway.
3 - STOP... STOP... STOP... trying to match the front suspension to a rear lift. Figure out what to do up front first, then do the back.
4 - If you think a body lift is too expensive because of the Automatic tranny bracket (which is like $20 when I bought it), then you are in for a shock when looking at suspension prices.
5 - STOP... STOP... STOP... looking at the rear lift first. Have I mentioned that yet?
6 - Are you planning to install this yourself? Or have it installed? If you plan to have it professionally installed, double the price of the kit.
7 - What size tire do you want to run? Plan on new wheels as well.
Take heed at the advice given by Roger and others... It's very solid advice.
08-01-2005, 05:41 PM
#28
Well put, basically what I have been trying to say. The proper way to do things is to determine your end goal, such as I want to run 33x12.50 tires (or whatever). Then work back from there to decide what is needed to do that. Starting out with "I want 6" of lift" is sort of putting the cart before the horse. A lot also depends on the intended use of the truck after the lift. Is it for looks only, on-road, off-road, mud, rocks, etc. You may come up with different setups for the different applications.
08-01-2005, 06:12 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by rockota
2 - a BallJoin spacer is a replacement for cranking up the torsion bars. You cannot add a 1.5" spacer on top of a 1.5" Torsion Bar crank and get 3" of lift and expect your shafts to last more than to the end of the driveway.
but i whole hartedly agree with every other statement that you made.
08-01-2005, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by KevyWevy
I actually disagree with that statement. i've been running 1.5" bj spacers and about 1 to 1.5" torsion bar crank for over a year now and have had no cv axle problems *knocks on wood* but i do have manual locking hubs.
but i whole hartedly agree with every other statement that you made.
but i whole hartedly agree with every other statement that you made.
Seriously? I'd love to see the angles that they are running at, because I'm not only curious but very confused how they can last... 
08-01-2005, 06:54 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by 4Crawler
The proper way to do things is to determine your end goal, such as I want to run 33x12.50 tires (or whatever). Then work back from there to decide what is needed to do that.
08-01-2005, 07:46 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by rockota
EEEK! Seriously? I'd love to see the angles that they are running at, because I'm not only curious but very confused how they can last...
Seriously? I'd love to see the angles that they are running at, because I'm not only curious but very confused how they can last... 1.5" is the max recommended if you want the longest life. However, if you 4 wheel 100 miles a year, just think of how many years it will take to wear out the CV's.
Frank
08-01-2005, 08:12 PM
#33
You can also install a differential drop kit on the front diff to lower it and the CV angles somewhat. I've made a few kits for the IFS trucks, need to get the info up on the web page. You drop the back end of the diff 1" and if present, also drop the sway bar brackets 1":
08-02-2005, 08:12 AM
#34
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a 3" body lift installed was gonna be $500 thats what i know bout it...i changed my mind haha with all this info... im gonna get bj spacers and crank the tbars up in front and get cruiser coils in back to get a 3" lift and but 33x12.50 tires on.
08-02-2005, 10:48 AM
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If you are gonna try and get 3" of lift in the front, then I would highly recommend lock out hubs. They will let the CV be disconnected from the tire while running around town. This will allow your CV's to last a lot longer as they aren't having the constant stress on them that they would if they were still connected to the tire running 3" of lift.
08-02-2005, 05:31 PM
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yes, manual locking hubs is a MUST!!!! or else you'll be replacing cv axles all the time.
i put my hubs on quite a while before my lift. i've had to replace one torn cv boot, but thats really cheap compaired to the entire cv axle.
i put my hubs on quite a while before my lift. i've had to replace one torn cv boot, but thats really cheap compaired to the entire cv axle.
