Cheap diff lock alternative- what do you think?
#21
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Originally Posted by rockota
Uh... no... your parking brake drum/caliper is mounted on the rear of the truck. To do this on the front of the vehicle, you'd have to rig up cables, levers, calipers, etc..
I think there's a lot of engineering that's going to go into "turning brakes" in an effort to provide traction, and while it works in theory, it's not a practical alternative to even a cheap locker.
Can the turning brake idea, and buy a cheap used lock-rite... I'd be willing to be it'll be cheaper than your parking brake idea - seriously.
I think there's a lot of engineering that's going to go into "turning brakes" in an effort to provide traction, and while it works in theory, it's not a practical alternative to even a cheap locker.
Can the turning brake idea, and buy a cheap used lock-rite... I'd be willing to be it'll be cheaper than your parking brake idea - seriously.
Chris
#22
A BPV/LSPV whatever you wanna call it don't have enough capacity in the throw of it's cylinder to lock up a brake weather it be drum or disc. It simply anjusts an orafice for more or less flow. Lets say yu had a hole in the floor of your bed and could reach the BPV/LSPV lever with your hand. Simply pulling on it will not lock up the rears. Once the pedal is applied, it'll make em lock up easier but it will not do the job alone.
#23
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So that's the proportioning valve you're talking about, right?
Chris
P.S. Do you think these buggy hand brakes could move enough flui to apply and potentially lock up on of the front wheels?
Chris
P.S. Do you think these buggy hand brakes could move enough flui to apply and potentially lock up on of the front wheels?
#24
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Originally Posted by ravencr
So that's the proportioning valve you're talking about, right?
Chris
P.S. Do you think these buggy hand brakes could move enough flui to apply and potentially lock up on of the front wheels?
Chris
P.S. Do you think these buggy hand brakes could move enough flui to apply and potentially lock up on of the front wheels?
I think you are making this WAY to complicated, Chris. Once again, you're going to have to find a way to a: mount an additional caliper on the front end b) design/route your fluid lines c) mount a master cylinder for this application.
That's the only way you'll be able to do it w/o messing with your stock brake system, which I think would be a requirement for any state with inspections. And how you are going to mount those extra calipers is beyond me, and dangerous if you start contemplating welding extra material to the knuckle.
This is a situation of trying to solve a simple problem with a complicated solution - when a simple solution exists. Buy a couple of lock-rites and enjoy the added traction w/o messing with one of the most important systems in your vehicle... brakes.
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Originally Posted by rockota
I think you are making this WAY to complicated, Chris. Once again, you're going to have to find a way to a: mount an additional caliper on the front end b) design/route your fluid lines c) mount a master cylinder for this application.
That's the only way you'll be able to do it w/o messing with your stock brake system, which I think would be a requirement for any state with inspections. And how you are going to mount those extra calipers is beyond me, and dangerous if you start contemplating welding extra material to the knuckle.
This is a situation of trying to solve a simple problem with a complicated solution - when a simple solution exists. Buy a couple of lock-rites and enjoy the added traction w/o messing with one of the most important systems in your vehicle... brakes.
That's the only way you'll be able to do it w/o messing with your stock brake system, which I think would be a requirement for any state with inspections. And how you are going to mount those extra calipers is beyond me, and dangerous if you start contemplating welding extra material to the knuckle.
This is a situation of trying to solve a simple problem with a complicated solution - when a simple solution exists. Buy a couple of lock-rites and enjoy the added traction w/o messing with one of the most important systems in your vehicle... brakes.
Chris
P.S. We don't have inspections in TN!
#26
What rockota said.
but...to answer your question...yes, I believe one could re-route his front lines through the block in the cnc cutting brake assembly as you would the rears. Not sure that'd be advisable though. If you end up doin' something like that, make sure it can't be accidentally engaged/pulled!!! A front tire locking up at any kind of speed = aint good!
but...to answer your question...yes, I believe one could re-route his front lines through the block in the cnc cutting brake assembly as you would the rears. Not sure that'd be advisable though. If you end up doin' something like that, make sure it can't be accidentally engaged/pulled!!! A front tire locking up at any kind of speed = aint good!
#28
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What are you going to gain from this? A "cheap" locker alternative? I don't think so. As already mentioned, you'll need to know which tire is the one not getting traction, which you will not know until you are already stuck. A locker will help prevent you from getting stuck in the first place.
Also, check with your state laws, because I believe it's illegal in many states to have high pressure brake lines running into the cab, where you would need them in order to use "cutting brakes".
Keep in mind this - the rock-racing buys are NOT using cutting brakes to add traction, they are using them in front-end digs to help turn the truck on a dime. They are not using them to add traction to a tire.
Maybe I'm just being really stubborn - I can be that way - but I see no return on investment here. $200 will get you a lock-right with proven technology, proven safety, proven track record...
I think you are wasting time and money, but if you do it, I emplore you to keep the truck OFF THE STREET. Because there is no amount of traction-aiding-foolery that will be worth risking the lives of others if it should fail...
Also, check with your state laws, because I believe it's illegal in many states to have high pressure brake lines running into the cab, where you would need them in order to use "cutting brakes".
Keep in mind this - the rock-racing buys are NOT using cutting brakes to add traction, they are using them in front-end digs to help turn the truck on a dime. They are not using them to add traction to a tire.
Maybe I'm just being really stubborn - I can be that way - but I see no return on investment here. $200 will get you a lock-right with proven technology, proven safety, proven track record...
I think you are wasting time and money, but if you do it, I emplore you to keep the truck OFF THE STREET. Because there is no amount of traction-aiding-foolery that will be worth risking the lives of others if it should fail...
#29
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Originally Posted by rockota
What are you going to gain from this? A "cheap" locker alternative? I don't think so. As already mentioned, you'll need to know which tire is the one not getting traction, which you will not know until you are already stuck. A locker will help prevent you from getting stuck in the first place.
Also, check with your state laws, because I believe it's illegal in many states to have high pressure brake lines running into the cab, where you would need them in order to use "cutting brakes".
Keep in mind this - the rock-racing buys are NOT using cutting brakes to add traction, they are using them in front-end digs to help turn the truck on a dime. They are not using them to add traction to a tire.
Maybe I'm just being really stubborn - I can be that way - but I see no return on investment here. $200 will get you a lock-right with proven technology, proven safety, proven track record...
I think you are wasting time and money, but if you do it, I emplore you to keep the truck OFF THE STREET. Because there is no amount of traction-aiding-foolery that will be worth risking the lives of others if it should fail...
Also, check with your state laws, because I believe it's illegal in many states to have high pressure brake lines running into the cab, where you would need them in order to use "cutting brakes".
Keep in mind this - the rock-racing buys are NOT using cutting brakes to add traction, they are using them in front-end digs to help turn the truck on a dime. They are not using them to add traction to a tire.
Maybe I'm just being really stubborn - I can be that way - but I see no return on investment here. $200 will get you a lock-right with proven technology, proven safety, proven track record...
I think you are wasting time and money, but if you do it, I emplore you to keep the truck OFF THE STREET. Because there is no amount of traction-aiding-foolery that will be worth risking the lives of others if it should fail...
Chris
P.S. Knowing which tires has the most traction is usually pretty simple, but maybe that's just me.
#30
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Originally Posted by ravencr
I wasn't under the impression that a lock-right will work in a 3rd gen 4runner with automatic hubs, but I could be wrong. I was thinking it was like an aussie locker, which isn't recommended.
P.S. Knowing which tires has the most traction is usually pretty simple, but maybe that's just me.
#31
Personally, I wouldn't use cutting brakes to gain traction, but would for making a tight turn. Some of the heavy equipment I run have cutting brakes and they work great in controlling the direction the rig travels. As to safety, if it's plumbed properly, I see no problem running it on the street. It would still be a PITA to control which tire is spinning.
#32
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In my opinion, this would be most beneficial when in off-camber situations, where I could pull slightly on the uphill spinning tire to transfer the torque to the downhill stopped tire. It would be a hugh help, but I'm curious where to buy some of these systems and what all would be involved.
On another note, it would be easy to create a locking mechanism that would prevent them from being pulled while under normal driving.
Chris
On another note, it would be easy to create a locking mechanism that would prevent them from being pulled while under normal driving.
Chris
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Originally Posted by ravencr
In my opinion, this would be most beneficial when in off-camber situations, where I could pull slightly on the uphill spinning tire to transfer the torque to the downhill stopped tire. It would be a hugh help, but I'm curious where to buy some of these systems and what all would be involved.
#34
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Originally Posted by rockota
Buy a locker, Chris. Seriously. I respect your desire to try something "out of the box", but there's a reason that people buy lockers; they work.
Chris
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