3rd gen 4 Runner Dual Battery - Engine Bay Lights
#1
3rd gen 4 Runner Dual Battery - Engine Bay Lights
I am about to fab my winch bumper but want to upgrade my eletrical so am adding a battery, also wired up some lights in the engien bay that completely lights it up.
Whether I need to check out wiring or simply check the oil, it is daylight in there now, was tired of messing with a flashlight everytime I had to check something out.
I will also add rock lights once my winch bumper is in place.
I will post pics tomorrow!
Whether I need to check out wiring or simply check the oil, it is daylight in there now, was tired of messing with a flashlight everytime I had to check something out.
I will also add rock lights once my winch bumper is in place.
I will post pics tomorrow!
#2
Contributing Member
sounds cool man, i look forward to seeing the pics tomorrow, the lack of engine lighting and interior lighting is one of my things thats been on my list since i bought my 4runner... just havent done yet
#3
here are some pics
Was able to use existing bolt hole in unibody
Used exhaust mount bushing on passenger side to space it out a little
Switch near grille, also mounted with existing bolt and insert which is part of the radiator support
Was able to use existing bolt hole in unibody
Used exhaust mount bushing on passenger side to space it out a little
Switch near grille, also mounted with existing bolt and insert which is part of the radiator support
Last edited by BOSTON4RUNNER; 08-15-2006 at 04:31 AM.
#4
Contributing Member
holy crap man, you werent kidding about the light... you put foglights in... i was envisioning something like led's or such. I had some lights like that from JCWhiteny also, they should hold up much better in the engine compartment than they did for a week outside
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#8
Originally Posted by Intrepid
I don't know how you intend to do the dual battery, but 12voltguy.com makes some nice setups.
#9
Registered User
Originally Posted by BOSTON4RUNNER
I am fabricating a tray and it will be just above the washer fluid tank..i already have cable and will be scoring a nice fused junction block from work, which I will use for electrical sources for accessories...
#10
Originally Posted by Intrepid
How are yous setting up the switch? The way mine is setup, one setting is both batteries charge and drain, one is stock, and one is only the backup battery.
they will be set up so they both charge and drain, I have thought about a switch, however what if the spare ended up having some random draw, or simply died over time in cold weather etc, by not being charged,,,,that would suck, so likely will set them both up to charge and drain
Last edited by BOSTON4RUNNER; 08-15-2006 at 07:34 AM.
#11
Registered User
Originally Posted by BOSTON4RUNNER
they will be set up so they both charge and drain, I have thought about a switch, however what if the spare ended up having some random draw, or simply died over time in cold weather etc, by not being charged,,,,that would suck, so likely will set them both up to charge and drain
#12
Originally Posted by Intrepid
Right but with the switch, I can charge the spare, then isolate it as necessary. I mean, what is the point of having dual batteries if you leave your lights on and both drain? I have the option to be whichever way I prefer, the majority of the time it will allow me an emergency start and then with the flip of a switch, I can have it drawing on both for winching if I so desire.
yeah i may go that route, we shall see, i have so many projects going
#13
I took out the MSD, to give me space to work on the battery tray.
The tray will mount flat but its legs will have to be shaped to allow this, the front leg closest to the radiator support will be made of any iron and be fairly wide as it will only have one mounting point in the front that bolt will actually go to, it will however have another foot rest off towards the drivers side, a foot with a flat base, to help support the battery's weight
I will then use two other existing bolt holes, one that is currently shielded from view due to teh air filter and the other that you can see in the picture.
I am not spending any more big money on this truck, other than the ARB locker and winch, so I will be fabricating a tray based on the one pictured here that came out of a 68 Camaro parts car from years ago...I am thinking I will be able to come up with a clean set up.
The tray will mount flat but its legs will have to be shaped to allow this, the front leg closest to the radiator support will be made of any iron and be fairly wide as it will only have one mounting point in the front that bolt will actually go to, it will however have another foot rest off towards the drivers side, a foot with a flat base, to help support the battery's weight
I will then use two other existing bolt holes, one that is currently shielded from view due to teh air filter and the other that you can see in the picture.
I am not spending any more big money on this truck, other than the ARB locker and winch, so I will be fabricating a tray based on the one pictured here that came out of a 68 Camaro parts car from years ago...I am thinking I will be able to come up with a clean set up.
#14
the tray will not rest on the MSD tach adapters but will sit just above them
they are sealed units and very durable, definitely would not be damaged if the tray did sit right on them but figure I should give the little guys some breathing room....
#17
so Friday night I got the welder out, I went into the steel bin, grabbed the chop saw and started hacking and welding...
I also did not want to spend a DIME on this project, I had metal, had a battery, had black paint....
Alot of the metal I had was heavier gauge than I would have typically used, but my supplies are low, need to restock, so I snipped up an old driveshaft loop to make the mounts...
The battery does not move at all, it will get the battery switch as Heath suggested, I will cable it up this week.
This was a marine battery I had laying around and is in good condition, it has over an inch clearance to the hood on the negative terminal and about 2 inch clearance on the positive terminal. The MSD will still fit, just need to throw it back in, though from the angle I took this pic, makes it look like it will not fit...
I also did not want to spend a DIME on this project, I had metal, had a battery, had black paint....
Alot of the metal I had was heavier gauge than I would have typically used, but my supplies are low, need to restock, so I snipped up an old driveshaft loop to make the mounts...
The battery does not move at all, it will get the battery switch as Heath suggested, I will cable it up this week.
This was a marine battery I had laying around and is in good condition, it has over an inch clearance to the hood on the negative terminal and about 2 inch clearance on the positive terminal. The MSD will still fit, just need to throw it back in, though from the angle I took this pic, makes it look like it will not fit...
Last edited by BOSTON4RUNNER; 08-21-2006 at 05:34 AM.