New FJ60
10-19-2005, 03:29 PM
#23
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DO NOT get the OME FJ-60/62 leaf springs. If want a set, I'll pull ours off and sell them to you so I can get Alcan Leafs for ours.
The front OME leafs only lift 1" because they think your too dumb to take the truck to an alignment shop and get a caster correction and buy a shim and stick it in.
The rear they lift 2.5" and every single one I have seen and the one they just installed at Slee leans at least 3/4" side to side.
The shocks are very nice as well as all the greaseable shackles, pins, etc. But they leafs are not so hot and they are rusting in Arizona. Out there they will really rust.
My advice would be a full set of front and rear Alcan 2.5" lift springs with the silver Bilsein shocks or even the OME shocks. Then take it to an alignment shop, have them check the caster and order a shim from 4Crawler.
Ours has 33x12.5x15 with only 1" of front lift and no cutting, with a real 2.5" you'll have no problem getting 35's on there.
Like I said if you want OME leafs, I'll sell you mine.
The front OME leafs only lift 1" because they think your too dumb to take the truck to an alignment shop and get a caster correction and buy a shim and stick it in.
The rear they lift 2.5" and every single one I have seen and the one they just installed at Slee leans at least 3/4" side to side.
The shocks are very nice as well as all the greaseable shackles, pins, etc. But they leafs are not so hot and they are rusting in Arizona. Out there they will really rust.
My advice would be a full set of front and rear Alcan 2.5" lift springs with the silver Bilsein shocks or even the OME shocks. Then take it to an alignment shop, have them check the caster and order a shim from 4Crawler.
Ours has 33x12.5x15 with only 1" of front lift and no cutting, with a real 2.5" you'll have no problem getting 35's on there.
Like I said if you want OME leafs, I'll sell you mine.
10-19-2005, 03:55 PM
#24
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Well when I am up I am down. The frame is rotten 
. I did inspect it yesterday, but never crawled underneath and look at the frame from the inside out. That is the inner section that is boxed/ welded to the C main is rotten. The lower weld has eroded
http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/1368/dsc021103ip.jpg
http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/7144/dsc021122qh.jpg
http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/3107/dsc021183xr.jpg
This is on the passenger near the front leaf rear shackle. it extends from the middle of the shackle the middle of where the transfer case is.
Then I looked real close at the driver side. It looked ok until I started inspecting the welds that secure the inner portion of the frame. The weld was pretty much no existent allowing my screwdriver to seperate the plate from the C main section of the frame rail. I made the hole on the driver's side VERY easily too
http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/9966/dsc021255sr.jpg
http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/3884/dsc021264sn.jpg
. I did inspect it yesterday, but never crawled underneath and look at the frame from the inside out. That is the inner section that is boxed/ welded to the C main is rotten. The lower weld has eroded http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/1368/dsc021103ip.jpg
http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/7144/dsc021122qh.jpg
http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/3107/dsc021183xr.jpg
This is on the passenger near the front leaf rear shackle. it extends from the middle of the shackle the middle of where the transfer case is.
Then I looked real close at the driver side. It looked ok until I started inspecting the welds that secure the inner portion of the frame. The weld was pretty much no existent allowing my screwdriver to seperate the plate from the C main section of the frame rail. I made the hole on the driver's side VERY easily too
http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/9966/dsc021255sr.jpg
http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/3884/dsc021264sn.jpg
Last edited by FilthyRich; 10-19-2005 at 04:05 PM.
10-19-2005, 04:57 PM
#25
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Can you get you dirt bike back. Seriously. That frame is shot. Those are high stress areas right by the leaf sring mounts. That thing is pretty much ready on it's way to being a parts rig.
10-19-2005, 05:15 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by sschaefer3
Can you get you dirt bike back. Seriously. That frame is shot. Those are high stress areas right by the leaf sring mounts. That thing is pretty much ready on it's way to being a parts rig.
10-19-2005, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by sdastg1
wow glad he's being so nice about it.
Anyone want have something to trade for a CR125????
10-19-2005, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by sdastg1
snorkel lol! 
10-20-2005, 12:25 PM
#31
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I am getting my bike back tomorrow. He offered me the truck as a parts vehicle for $1000. I know the frame is shot, but what would be a good price considering the parts. Wheels, tires, front axle, drivetrain, misc body/ interoir parts, good dash, some original glass.
10-23-2005, 07:05 PM
#32
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I returned the truck, got my bike (now with broken fender) and sold it the nest day for $2350. All is restored and I have more space in the garage 
Another LC another day
Another LC another day
10-23-2005, 07:07 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by FilthyRich
I returned the truck, got my bike (now with broken fender) and sold it the nest day for $2350. All is restored and I have more space in the garage
Another LC another day
Another LC another day
10-23-2005, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Localmotion
get the one downtown!!! too bad they seem firm on the price
I am willing to take a certain amount for the 4R any less and I keep it. I love it that much. Plus it is paid off, so it would have to be a deal that would allow some build up $$$ for the LC (either a 62 or an 80--I want creature comforts)
on road. Plus its purrdyyy
10-23-2005, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by sdastg1
good luck unloading a modded runner, the market is pretty much nonexistent. look at how much 44runner had trying to sell his, and he was almost giving it away.
Either way I love the 4r and will wheel the piss out of it, break it, fix it, and start all over 
10-23-2005, 08:51 PM
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Do a front sprung under Dana 44 and a rear sprung under 60 series leafs and you'll have a modern 60 series.
Side effect is that it will climb Whale Rock in Colorado effortlessly, you will be the Second 3rd Gen 4Runner to ever climb rocker knocker in Moab and you'll be the third 3rd Gen to follow the FJ formula.
No one on the internet will understand but you will be able to wheel anything.
No one on the internet understands that when compareing a 4" lift spring under 3rd Gen and a 6" sprung over 2nd Gen 4Runner, the 2nd Gen will actually be lower.
It's so sad.
Side effect is that it will climb Whale Rock in Colorado effortlessly, you will be the Second 3rd Gen 4Runner to ever climb rocker knocker in Moab and you'll be the third 3rd Gen to follow the FJ formula.
No one on the internet will understand but you will be able to wheel anything.
No one on the internet understands that when compareing a 4" lift spring under 3rd Gen and a 6" sprung over 2nd Gen 4Runner, the 2nd Gen will actually be lower.
It's so sad.
10-23-2005, 09:17 PM
#39
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Originally Posted by sschaefer3
Do a front sprung under Dana 44 and a rear sprung under 60 series leafs and you'll have a modern 60 series.
Side effect is that it will climb Whale Rock in Colorado effortlessly, you will be the Second 3rd Gen 4Runner to ever climb rocker knocker in Moab and you'll be the third 3rd Gen to follow the FJ formula.
No one on the internet will understand but you will be able to wheel anything.
No one on the internet understands that when compareing a 4" lift spring under 3rd Gen and a 6" sprung over 2nd Gen 4Runner, the 2nd Gen will actually be lower.
It's so sad.
Side effect is that it will climb Whale Rock in Colorado effortlessly, you will be the Second 3rd Gen 4Runner to ever climb rocker knocker in Moab and you'll be the third 3rd Gen to follow the FJ formula.
No one on the internet will understand but you will be able to wheel anything.
No one on the internet understands that when compareing a 4" lift spring under 3rd Gen and a 6" sprung over 2nd Gen 4Runner, the 2nd Gen will actually be lower.
It's so sad.
I don't need a SA nor have I broke enough parts to justify the expense of a SAS.
In the future it will all get cut up and done SUA FJ style. I prefer a lower cg and it has to be family friendly--35s nothing bigger. I will do it in the begining as cheap as possible. Source a waggy this fall/ winter, strip and prep for goodies. Sell my plethora of LC80/LX450 wheels and start the build up. I am in no real hurry, so it can be done right
At least I have a formula and a build up list to go by I do like the size of the 4R on the trail over the 80. We will see. At least I will have an axle to work on myself (initially) and if I change my mind it still has value
10-23-2005, 09:29 PM
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I bought a lot of FJ-62 slip steering shafts and they will all go up to Stubbs to turn the flange plates and then it will be a bolt on FJ-62 steering box steering shaft for a 3rd Gen SAS, which is far superior to the IFS box. Which was designed to run the tiny little steering Cheese would destroy on a daily basis. FJ parts are the best by far and a box you can move as far forward as you want is a dream come true. Especially since it was designed to run the FJ-62 factory high steer type steering from the factory.
FJ parts are more expensive. But then again, a 3rd Gen is worth alot more than a 20 year old truck.
FWIW, Cheese is actively looking for a $200-$500 truck in Denver for me. That right freaks, the 4Runner is done and it's buggy time.
Like nothing you have seem before. Low tech and cheap, just cool looking. No long travel IFS please.
FJ parts are more expensive. But then again, a 3rd Gen is worth alot more than a 20 year old truck.
FWIW, Cheese is actively looking for a $200-$500 truck in Denver for me. That right freaks, the 4Runner is done and it's buggy time.
Like nothing you have seem before. Low tech and cheap, just cool looking. No long travel IFS please.
