mmml4's 1999 4Runner Rebuild/Build-Up Thread
#25
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looks great so far. are you welding all that 1/4" stuff with that little hobart (HH140 maybe?)
--seen in #13...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200.../#post51475243
--seen in #13...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200.../#post51475243
#26
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looks great so far. are you welding all that 1/4" stuff with that little hobart (HH140 maybe?)
--seen in #13...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200.../#post51475243
--seen in #13...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200.../#post51475243
I am using .030" wire for all the plate work and I used .020" or .025" (can't remember) wire on the body work. Started out with fluxcore wire but damn at the splatter.
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So do I. It may be a while, having to save up for that purchase.
I have done a lot of research and purchased FSM for both transmissions and the best I can tell they are controlled the same way. I think it will require me to use the torque converter from the A343F and the input shaft and pump from my A340E. I am hoping it will almost be a plug and play. If all else fails I will use a manual controller and shift it like a manual transmission.
I have done a lot of research and purchased FSM for both transmissions and the best I can tell they are controlled the same way. I think it will require me to use the torque converter from the A343F and the input shaft and pump from my A340E. I am hoping it will almost be a plug and play. If all else fails I will use a manual controller and shift it like a manual transmission.
#29
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Very cool. I've been wondering about an A343F behind the 5VZ as well. I read a bunch about it over on IH8MUD.com a while back and it sounded very do-able. There's some extremely knowledgeable fellas over there in the 80 series LC section. I wouldn't hesitate to drop in there with questions about it if I were you.
I've been working/scheming of a similar-ish build using the 80 series LC axles. I'm stoked to see how this turns out!
-Ferg-
I've been working/scheming of a similar-ish build using the 80 series LC axles. I'm stoked to see how this turns out!
-Ferg-
#30
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You got me all rethinking about the A343F/HF2AV (with case converted to part time).... My plan is to get 80 series LC axles front and rear under my 4runner next year and I've been researching and getting ready to start shopping and collecting parts for my swap.
I originally thought about this tranny/tcase combo, but then thought the extra ~$660 just to convert to part-time was quite a bit of added cost (plus that tranny/tcase combo is still pretty pricey used) and so I've been searching out other ways to do this.
First thing to keep in mind is, yes, the 80 series LC rear axle diff is not centered, however it is not that offset either. Yes, it is offset to the passenger side slightly, but only a few inches--not nearly as far offset as the older LCs are. Thus, a centered rear output tcase is still possible. I've actually done a similar thing by running the 80 series rear in the rear of an FJ60 LC, where the offset from the tcase was farther offset to the passenger side a few more inches than the 80 series diff was. I've also came across several threads on Aussie 4x4 forums where plenty of guys are running the 80 LC rears behind centered rear tcase outputs. The fact of the matter is this: a CV joint is a CV joint. I don't know that I would go running a centered tcase output with an older LC rear where the diff offset is very far offset to the passenger, but the slight difference between the 80 LC rear and the center isn't very much of a difference.
So that being said....if you're interested in that idea....now you would have to worry about the front axle passenger offset still....
The "been there, done that" method of doing it is the marlin or inchworm adapter and an older gear driven transfer case. Which are fine methods and would easily allow for dual boxes and lower gearsets. But, of course, thats gonna still be $350+ for an adapter... So what about a late model T100 case? It's chain driven just like the stock 3rd Gen case and came behind the 3.4/A340F on the 95+ T100. I really like this idea, however, I can't find anybody that has ever done it--only people speculating all sorts of different "facts" about the T100 case being anything from a straight bolt-on to the 3rd Gen A340F, to not being possible at all. I've been busting my ass (sitting on in my chair) searching high and low on the nets for an answer. I think I'm getting close, but still not totally sure. I did find one guy who swapped the tranny/tcase combo from a 3.0L T100 over behind his 3.4L Tacoma...
Anyway, just some thoughts. Here's the threads where i've posted up looking for answers:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t...stions-217517/
http://forum.ih8mud.com/95-gen-toyot...questions.html
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index...2908.msg868138
http://www.toyotatrailriders.com/for...read.php?t=444
BTW, what are you doing doing for the steering setup?
-Ferg-
I originally thought about this tranny/tcase combo, but then thought the extra ~$660 just to convert to part-time was quite a bit of added cost (plus that tranny/tcase combo is still pretty pricey used) and so I've been searching out other ways to do this.
First thing to keep in mind is, yes, the 80 series LC rear axle diff is not centered, however it is not that offset either. Yes, it is offset to the passenger side slightly, but only a few inches--not nearly as far offset as the older LCs are. Thus, a centered rear output tcase is still possible. I've actually done a similar thing by running the 80 series rear in the rear of an FJ60 LC, where the offset from the tcase was farther offset to the passenger side a few more inches than the 80 series diff was. I've also came across several threads on Aussie 4x4 forums where plenty of guys are running the 80 LC rears behind centered rear tcase outputs. The fact of the matter is this: a CV joint is a CV joint. I don't know that I would go running a centered tcase output with an older LC rear where the diff offset is very far offset to the passenger, but the slight difference between the 80 LC rear and the center isn't very much of a difference.
So that being said....if you're interested in that idea....now you would have to worry about the front axle passenger offset still....
The "been there, done that" method of doing it is the marlin or inchworm adapter and an older gear driven transfer case. Which are fine methods and would easily allow for dual boxes and lower gearsets. But, of course, thats gonna still be $350+ for an adapter... So what about a late model T100 case? It's chain driven just like the stock 3rd Gen case and came behind the 3.4/A340F on the 95+ T100. I really like this idea, however, I can't find anybody that has ever done it--only people speculating all sorts of different "facts" about the T100 case being anything from a straight bolt-on to the 3rd Gen A340F, to not being possible at all. I've been busting my ass (sitting on in my chair) searching high and low on the nets for an answer. I think I'm getting close, but still not totally sure. I did find one guy who swapped the tranny/tcase combo from a 3.0L T100 over behind his 3.4L Tacoma...
Anyway, just some thoughts. Here's the threads where i've posted up looking for answers:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t...stions-217517/
http://forum.ih8mud.com/95-gen-toyot...questions.html
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index...2908.msg868138
http://www.toyotatrailriders.com/for...read.php?t=444
BTW, what are you doing doing for the steering setup?
-Ferg-
#31
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As for the steering, stock power steering pump, IFS steering box, Marlin Crawler pitman arm, LC drag link. I wish I had taken pictures of fabricating the steering shaft but I didn't.
FIREWALL PLATE:
I cut the outer edge (about 1" wide strip all the way around with the bolt holes in it) off of the existing firewall plate where the steering went down to the R&P, I cut the piece with the shaft seal in it off also.
I then took a piece of 16 gauge sheet metal and formed it to fit the piece with the bolt holes and welded them together. I pulled a piece of string from the steering wheel to the steering box and took some measurements so I could fit the shaft seal piece to the new firewall plate.
Then I cut a hole for the shaft to go thruogh and then fit the seal.
STEERING SHAFT:
I cut up the steering joint that turned at the firewall and went down to the R&P so it would work as a u-joint, I used this joint at the steering wheel. I cut the splined section off of the factory shaft that the came with the IFS box and used a piece of 1/2" schedule 40 pipe to bring the shaft to length.
Hope that makes some sense.
FIREWALL PLATE:
I cut the outer edge (about 1" wide strip all the way around with the bolt holes in it) off of the existing firewall plate where the steering went down to the R&P, I cut the piece with the shaft seal in it off also.
I then took a piece of 16 gauge sheet metal and formed it to fit the piece with the bolt holes and welded them together. I pulled a piece of string from the steering wheel to the steering box and took some measurements so I could fit the shaft seal piece to the new firewall plate.
Then I cut a hole for the shaft to go thruogh and then fit the seal.
STEERING SHAFT:
I cut up the steering joint that turned at the firewall and went down to the R&P so it would work as a u-joint, I used this joint at the steering wheel. I cut the splined section off of the factory shaft that the came with the IFS box and used a piece of 1/2" schedule 40 pipe to bring the shaft to length.
Hope that makes some sense.
Last edited by mmml4; 08-15-2010 at 04:56 PM.
#32
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Well I finally got my shock mounts and brake hose tabs done. I modified and used the stock brake hose tabs from the IFS. The shock towers are the $15.00 ford towers and the lower mount is 5/8" stainless round drilled and tapped for a M10x1.25 bolt.
Instead of having a long hose hanging down I ran my brake hose along to lower link. Do you think that could be a problem?
Instead of having a long hose hanging down I ran my brake hose along to lower link. Do you think that could be a problem?
Last edited by mmml4; 08-15-2010 at 10:56 AM.
#35
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theferg, have you seen this, it has some interesting tranny tech in it.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=760677
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=760677
Last edited by mmml4; 08-15-2010 at 05:04 PM.
#36
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Here is my version of a 3" panhard drop bracket. I used 1/8" plate, boxed in on three sides. Maybe this will last till I get the Cruiser rear end installed.
Now I need to add 2" to the bracket on the axle to get the panhard level.
Now I need to add 2" to the bracket on the axle to get the panhard level.
#37
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do you have a part number for those shock towers you got from ford? or at least a make and model they came off of? are they the ones from the late 70's f150's and bronco's?