pattycakes77

iTrader: (2)

Ok, this has been an ongoing problem for years that I attributed to bad brakes but now I'm not so sure. Here is what I have:
1998 4runner, 3.4 V6, ABS disabled (no fuse), 199mm Tundra calipers 100% rebuilt with OEM everything, Brembo rotors, OEM pads, Sonoran Steel 7.1 lift kit, 118K miles on the clock, 265/75/16 BFG AT tires.

Anyway, in about '07 I swapped my brakes with the 199mm Tundras and all was fine for awhile. I got a lift, that was fine for awhile, but then things began to get pretty harsh and on hard braking my steering wheel would pull to one side. Sometimes it would go left, others right; I assumed it was bad brakes. I just lived with it for awhile until I could swap back to my OEM 4runner setup, I swapped them out and I still had the same problem. Today, I swapped back to my Tundra setup, and I'm still having the same issue with it pulling on hard braking.

So, I'm wondering if you all could advise me on whether you think it could be a brake problem, alignment issue, possibly suspension or something else? Let me know if you need more info for diagnosis. Thanks.

brian2sun

My guess would be alignment, when was the last time?

pattycakes77

iTrader: (2)

Last alignment was in '07 after I got the lift put on. Now that I think about it, man it's been a long time since I had one. I guess I'll put that on the To Do list and update this thread with the results. I only hesitated thinking it was alignment because the symptoms started only about 6 months or less after I did the brakes, lift, and alignment. But it's due for another anyway. If anyone has any other possible culprits I could check, feel free to chime in.

On the topic of alignment with a lift, is having a lift something I should tell them at the shop when I get the alignment? I didn't know if there were set specs for each make/model/year that they true up and align to or if they take physical measurements of the vehicle as it is and then set the alignment points? I did mention the last time about putting a 2"-3" lift on the vehicle and needed an alignment, don't know if they actually did anything different or just did the minimum and collected the money.

Thanks for the input Brian.

brian2sun

A lot of shops just don't care to actually align the vehicle properly, they're content with getting it somewhat in spec and saying "next". I had to take mine to a couple places that strung me along until I found a good 4x4 alignment guy and he finally got it right. I took his print out to the previous shops and fought for my $$ back. I would call around, most specialty 4x4 shops have a guy who does their alignments for them. If not that, go to Firestone and get their "lifetime alignment" deal and at least if they screw it up, you can have them do it over again and again for free.

While you're doing that, it can't hurt to inspect your control arm bushings. Are you sure the calipers are operating equally? I assume you bled the brakes thoroughly?

pattycakes77

iTrader: (2)

Yep, after the harsh ride set in I started inspecting bushings and control arms, ball joints etc. I'm sure it could use a freshen up since it's 13 years old now, however I'm unemployed again (along with everyone else and their mom! ) so I don't think I can swing new arms at this point. The only bushings I can see that are toast are the front sway bar bushings, I can live with that for now or take it off until I can replace them later if I have to. Not sure about the calipers operating equally. I had them powder coated earlier this year and rebuilt them using all OEM parts and pads so they should be working like new, but I'm not sure how I would check that, suggestions? I switched out the fluid to all new Prestone Synthetic DOT3/DOT4 and to my knowledge they are bled very well. I had a squishy pedal the first time I bled them, then pushed out a bunch of air the second time and the pedal is nice and firm as it should be. Took it for a drive to bed the brakes, stops pretty good except for the jerking to one side like it's been doing for awhile.

I'll call around for a good shop for alignments and ask about doing it the right way and see what happens. I hope that's the problem, we'll see. Thanks for the input again Brian.

hross14

jack up the front end and spin each will individually. See if one or the other is dragging.

But i would hate to say it but i think you need to replace your ball joints also. Both my runners at 100k had tight yet not firm ball joints. but then again i also run oversized tires

Also--did you get the correct hardware kit for your calipers? I.e.. the floating pins and springs...etc...?

pattycakes77

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I'll get it up in the air and check the wheel spin and see if either are dragging. Yep, I have a laundry list of things that could or should be done for maintenance, just hope that I find employment again soon and then I'll be off to the dealer with my grocery list (I get employee discount from a buddy). Ball joints and A-Arms are at the top of the list to hopefully tighten things up again.

This is everything I purchased to rebuild the calipers, everything should have been for the 199mm Tundra/Sequoia brakes:
04945-35040 Shim Kit (for 199mm Tundra Brakes)
04465-0c012 Pad Kit, Disc Brakes 199mm
04479-0c020 Cylinder Kit, caliper rebuild kit (199mm) ($13.22)
90080-24077 Pin w/hole, brakes (199mm) ($1.43)

By "springs" do you mean the little springy wire that spreads the pad apart? I am using the Tundra specific ones, but perhaps I need new ones if these are worn out? When I put everything together on the calipers I slid the pads etc across the pins to make sure they slid freely and wouldn't get hung up on anything, so unless the spring retainer thing is shot and not spreading the pads back out under braking, I think they should be working OK unless there is something going on internally in the caliper. Man, what a headache!

hross14

those pins can get sticky--use a high temp grease on them.

And the wire hardware for the 4runner calipers are different from the tundra set---. Why is your ABS unplugged??

Juppers

I would re-bleed the brakes and maybe consider a full brake fluid change out.

pattycakes77

iTrader: (2)

I'll grease the pins just to be safe. Yeah, the 4runner had that huge solid looking piece on top of the pads and I used the Tundra small springy wire. I disabled the ABS because I have had many near accidents and 1 accident because of the ABS freaking out. I drive cautious on my own and I would rather be in control of my vehicle, ABS just doesn't work with my driving style and I feel it's more of a liability.

Juppers - I will go ahead and do another brake bleed to be safe, and I know that I've flushed all the old fluid out already. The system should have all new fluid in there so I've got that covered.

HighLux

Make sure the pistons in the caliper are moving....i just went through my truck pulling hard and it was a seized piston in one bore. Looked like it was fine...pads clenching etc....but one weak piston made mine pull....

MillerPKA

Hey I just saw this. As odd as this may sound you may want to look into your drums. When you actuate your ebrake lever does it go up all the way? If you have to crank it full its a good sign they're worn. And contrary to what some think the rear drums and front discs work simultaneously when braking. The spring on the right side snapped which devoted all braking to the left side, which caused the shoe to wear twice as fast. This was causing a bad shimmy in my wheel during braking. Got new drums and shoes 2 weeks ago and it stops straight on. If you have the tools just jack up the rear pull off the tires and yank the drums off and have a look see, worth a shot

pkt1213

iTrader: (1)

I am having the same problem. Under a moderate braking load it slows down fine but under hard breaking when wheel jerks left hard for a slpit second and then comes back into control. I noticed it when I put on my Tundra 231mm brakes too. Stock suspension w/ 170k miles and 265/75/16s. Bled and rebeld the brake system and checked everything. I think it's going to need new ball joints but I'm waiting to 1) get back to the states 2) get my lift kit and do it all at once. I'll be interested what fixes your problem.

graduatedpine

Mines giving me the same grief:/

pattycakes77

iTrader: (2)

Hey Miller, thanks for the info. I'll check the drums, I never even thought about them but I know they could use replacing. Maybe all this time it was the rears and I just didn't know it! I'm still going to get another alignment but I'll go ahead and do new rear brakes too and see what happens. My e-brake doesn't feel any different than when I bought it in '03, no additional notches when I pull it.

I'll update this thread when I get the alignment and new rear brakes done and share if it solved the problem. Thanks again for all the information!

gdutch

I've been having this same problem for a long time, alignment has been done but it didn't change the symptom. Car steers straight as an arrow until I hit the brakes, then it pulls left. The harder I brake, the harder it pulls. The wheel also vibrates under heavy braking.

pkt1213

iTrader: (1)

Mine doesn't do it if I am slowly stopping but if I mash it, it jerks and then straightens out. Like, hands off, mash, jerk hard but doesn't even hardly move out of the lane. I don't have any vibrations. Like I said, noticed after my 231 upgrade but did it with the factory wheels and my procomps.