zberch

Im buying rotors and new brakes for my runner. Im thinking sloted or cross drilled rotors, does anyone have any ideas on the best brands and what you have had the best luck with? Thanks

yamataco

I have great brakes since I swapped in cross drilled / slotted Centric Tundra rotors and Tundra calipers on my Tacoma. Search for "Tundra Brakes" and you'll find a ton of info. My truck has about 50% more brake power now.

Fink

Hey man, I think there's a lot of info on this on here.

Do a search and see if any good threads come up, I could have sworn there was a pretty long one comparing the different types of brakes and which ones were better for the 3rd gens. I could be wrong though...

Fink

Texas_Ace

I have done some searching and i have seen that brembo rotors seem to be the standard ones people like. but about half say drilled and the rest say blanks. Not to steal the thread but i think this kinda goes with what he was asking but which is better between those? and why?

zberch

Well I was acually talking to my friend about this yesterday. He works on race prep for porsche cars. He was say crossed drilled rotors over time will need to be replaced because they will have stress concentration at the holes. He said dont get cross drill but get slotted rotors. Slotted rotor seem to be more money. The standard one will heat up sooner then crossed drilled or slotted

Tark

cryo treated rotors with hawk pads

premium rotors and premium price

gpcollen1

Why not upgrade to the Tundra 199mm Brake setup?

Texas_Ace

For me it is a matter of $$. The calipars are a lot i am sure. I had to replace one in my corolla once and it was like $200 for 1!! And i don't feel like going to the junk yard....

QSVeilside

Brembo blanks - There is a good reason people have been having great results with Brembo blanks. The rotors are ventilated, (with internal pillars), in such a manner that heat is evacuated more efficiently than stock.

http://www.brembo.com/ENG/AfterMarke...roductsPVT.htm

Crossdrilled/slotted - Once useful at ventilating outgassing. Not necessary unless you do some serious racing, and even those that do, there are pads today that allow efficient heat ventilation. Crossdrilling will decrease the weight of the rotor, which will make it heat up faster, (think a small metal pot vs. a heavier metal pot... Which will boil water faster?), and result in "stress risers." Slotted will give you a fresh pad surface every time you step on the brake... which may or may not improve braking, but will force you to buy pads more often. In conclusion, crossdrilled/slotted rotors are pretty much only for aesthetic purposes. If you think they're sexy and have an extra $20 per rotor to spend, go for it.

Sources:

www.brembo.com

www.baer.com
Go to baertech, then to F.A.Q, (frequently asked questions)

http://www.stoptech.com/proven_technology/patents.shtml
These guys offer some great rotors as well

QSVeilside

Off of the Baer FAQ:

"Will slotting or crossdrilling my rotors improve my car's stopping performance?

DEFINITELY NOT! Crossdrilled or slotted rotors do produce a strong visual appeal behind a modern open wheel, and they do have a performance edge when pad outgassing occurs. Outgassing occurs at extreme temperatures when the bonding agents that hold the pad material together break down into a gas form. This gas creates a pneumatic barrier between the rotor and the pad, reducing friction. Crossdrilling or slotting creates a path for the outgassing that occurs during extreme braking conditions. However, these conditions can virtually never be reached on the street! Short of a complete system, performance brake pads, a proper Teflon lined braided stainless steel hose set and quality brake fluids are the only direct replacement upgrades that can be combined to deliver measurable stopping improvements in the context of direct replacement components on the OE brake system."

Perhaps go for the Brembo blanks, PF - Performance Friction pads, and some SS brakelines, (see other thread, options include: Stoptech, Goodridge, Russell).

Info on the PF pads on Gadget's site:
http://www.gadgetonline.com/Susp.htm

yamataco

^^X2^^

The cost difference for my Tundra brakes was the $150 for the calipers. $75 each with a $80 each core charge that I got back when I returned my stock Taco calipers. Since I was already buying rotors and pads, it was an easy decision for me..

Much improved braking power over stock Taco brakes. IDK how much it helps a 4Runner, but it seems like everyone who does it is happy with the results.

Texas_Ace

So the calipers were only $75? For that price i think i might do that. I was thinking $200 pplus like the last one i had to buy.

So it works like this:?

buy tundra calipers, rotors, and pads
take off old ones
install tundra parts

If it is that simple i think i will deffiantly do that.

yamataco

It is just about that simple. On a taco you have to slightly bend the dust plate for clearance but IDK about a runner. You do have to have 16" wheels. I tried an extra 15 (stock 4 runner) and there was no way it would fit, so 16s are a must.

I got my calipers at NAPA for $75 each, that was with a bit of a discount. I think retail is about $85-90.

Look here

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ghlight=tundra

That's the thread that got me started..

toy_tek

I put the Brembo slotted on mine, they've been great. I got slotted because I used to drive through a lot of water/mud. Don't really need slotted now that I'm in AZ. But I'd definitely put on Tundra calipers/rotors when I'm ready to replace the current setup.

Midnight Runner

From the 4runner LTD brakes to the tundra brakes, you're only getting more heat capacity. The rotors are the same diameter. The piston sizes in the caliper are the same, 44.5mm. The only difference is that the rotors are thicker, which provides more heat capacity.

Oh, and go slotted. Drilled one will crack faster if heated up a lot often.

97Limited

Go with the Tundra set-up with Ceramic Pads!! I've been running this set-up for a while now and wouldn't change!! I run my 4Runner pretty hard, and I do alot of highway driving and I get no Brake fade, or rotor warp!!! And I'm also running 305's on my 4Runner. Pay a little extra for the upgrade and you'll save money in the long run! (not replace'n rotors) See going with Slotted rotors for the 4Runner your still gonna run into the same problem with rotors warping, If you really want to go with slotted rotors go with Tundra slotted rotors!!!

Texas_Ace

Yea, i was not going to get drilled as i have heard bad things about tha but the slotted are so much more $$ that i think i will just have to go with blanks.

I am going to be ordering the tundra parts today so if anyone knows of a good deal on those part LET ME KNOW!

Pest

I have no experience with them, but I've heard that with slotted or drilled rotors, if they warp, you can't turn them, you have to just throw them away and buy new ones. Not worth my money.

Texas_Ace

From what i know about them, that is not the problem wth them. I am almost positive the drilled ones can be but i know the sloted ones can. What makes the drilled rotors bad is like was said above they are very weak and unless you MUST have the extra cooling due to extreme use they are just a problem waiting to happen.

Slotted on the other hand is what most high end race cars use so those must be fine...

Midnight Runner

You can...

Most machinists are too pansy to do it, and they want to protect their bits. It's just an interrupted cut.