Gangus2006

How's the quality of hte "Toyota Motor Oil" dealers use for oil changes?

I brought the Tacoma in for an oil change today, had a case of Royal Purple 5W30 on the passenger seat, and told them to use that. I ended up not being charged for the filter, labor, or disposal. Well, when they brought the truck back out, the case of oil was unopened. They forgot about it.

I got a free oil change, but Im questioning the quality of the Toyota oil.

Ironmike4x4

Here's a thread where 4Runnin' and I were actually just a few minutes ago were discussing. If you can find out where Toyota gets their oil from. If it's from Kendall then if 4Runnin' is right about it then it's reused oil. Personally our GM oil really sucks. It starts to thin out and turn black much sooner than the other oils that our customer's put in. Just from my personal experience, it may be much different with Toyota though.

Tacoma Dude

Royal Purple is synthetic isn't it?
I don't think the oil from the dealer is...

Gangus2006

I know its not synthetic, but would it be worth my time to crawl under there and drain out the oil and put in the RP, or should I just wait untilt he next oil change and put a "AMSOIL Synthetic 5W30 ONLY" Sticker ont he oil cap? The only reason I used Royal Purple this time was because I had an extra case of it laying around, right next to some AMSOIL.

Localmotion

yea i thought i was synthetic too. uhh....if they put dino in if you usually use synthetic, then you might want to flush it out with some seafoam?

Ironmike4x4

You might as well run it for the next 3k miles and then change it yourself. I doubt putting a sticker that says Amsoil only will have much effect on them since they are usually in a rush to get the job done and move on.

Gangus2006

This is the first oil change int he Tacoma BTW. We ran 5k on the factory oil, and were planning on converting this time.

Oh well, guess we'll wait until 10k then.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Don't wait. The sooner you get synthetic in there the better IMO.

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/G.../motor_oils.htm
Group IV includes polyalphaolefins (PAOs) (AMSOIL, MOBIL1). Group V includes all other basestocks not included in Groups I, II, III and IV. Esters are Group V basestocks (Red Line).

I still think Amsoil is a great marketing strategy.

You buy the stuff and you have to claim it is the best to sell it and get it off your hands. I still wonder why if this Amsoil is sooooooo great, why don't they want to make money and sell it in a store?

Search Amsoil on the net, you tell me what kind of marketing it looks like.

Group V is the primo stuff... Redline, (maybe Neo and Torco) is the only one.

Gangus2006

Wheres Royal Purple rank?

BTW Your link dosent work...

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

I'll have to look the link up. I think Royal Purple was III or IV.

I don't remember which, I just remember that I stopped using it since it was only a 3 or 4. I guess it doesn't matter much, but I'd rather get any protection I can.

I did a lot of reading on this stuff. May not be worth a minute of your time, but I know what I use and why. I am more educated with something vehicle wise.

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

I guess it's a 4 Gangus. German oil is supposedly far superior to AMerican oil since they drive at high speeds on the autobahn.


This is why you can't believe everything on the net. This article says Redline is a PAO and not ester.

Back in 1998, Mobil filed suit against Castrol for falsely advertising Syntec oil as synthetic, when in fact it contained a highly hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil instead of a chemically synthesized basestock. Due to the amount that the mineral oil had been chemically changed, the judge decided that Mobil lost that suit. As a result (except in Germany), any oil containing this highly hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil (currently called Group III basestock by the American Petroleum Institute) can market themselves as a synthetic oil. Since the original synthetic basestock (polyalphaolefin or PAO) costs approximately 3 times as much as the Group III basestock, most of the oil blenders switched to the Group III basestock, which significantly increased their profit margins (the price of synthetic oils didn't drop, as I recall, to accommodate this cheaper basestock, which makes up >70% of a bottle of oil). In Europe, blenders still need to use some PAO in order to meet the toughest ACEA specs. In the US, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Red Line and Royal Purple are the only ones I am SURE OF still using PAO. If you can get a material safety data sheet (MSDS) for the oil you are interested in, look for PAO or polymer or oligomer of 1-decene as a component for a tip-off. Synthetic blends contain some amount (not defined, as far as I know) of synthetic basestock. The small amount of viscosity modifier present in most multi-grade oils probably fulfils this requirement, making synthetic blends another profit centre for the oil blenders.

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

Heres a link Gangus.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums....php/t741.html

They explain the basestocks and get to Redline and Amsoil a few paragraphs in.

Amsoil "info" floods the net cause everyone is trying to push it and get rid of it. What a way to build a good reputation then market it to the masses once all the hype is set in place.

kyle_22r

i can think of 3 good sized parts houses off the top of my head within 10 miniutes of my house that i can buy AMSOIL at. i like it, good stuff.

i think "toyota oil" is castrol or valvoline.

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

I never ever once saw Amsoil around here.

And is it sold by someone who works in the store? Could they be using the store to sell it off?

Their marketing strategy is odd.

CoedNaked

I'm not sure of the brand, but I'm pretty sure the Canadian Toyota dealerships Toyota motor oil is pretty good stuff. When I used to have a tercel for 5 years before my truck it's all my car ever got and that car had 300,000 km (188,000 miles) when I sold it and it was running strong on Toyota motor oil (religiously used Toyota motor oil in this car btw).

Tomsriv

At the dealer I worked at we used Pennzoil. I have heard it is crappy oil, and I don't use it in my car, but seriously, if you change the oil every 3000 miles any modern engine will last 200,000 miles. I'm willing to bet that more than half of all engine failures in the last 10 years have been from neglect and not wear.

rearviewmirror

I use European oils only.. Motorex (Swiss) or Repsol (Spain). BMW uses a form on Castrol that is German. Either way, I believe Auto standards in Europe are much stringent then here, so if it's 100% synthetic and made across the Atlantic I'll use it. Lately it's been Motorex though.

Lone4runner

I agree. all my dad ever used was regular cheapo oil and changed them every maybe 5k area maybe more and his 1982 volvo lasted 900k estimated his speedometer brokearound 700k. no engine problems just everything around it.

nrgetic99

Series 2000 Amsoil contains PAO (Group IV) and Ester (Group V) to the best of my knowledge. There is no GP III or otherwise.

I am not sure of why you would formulate with all Group V as it is well known that Esters when used in large amounts need additives to compensate for the lack of seal swell (sometimes referred to as seal shrinkage) and also its lack of polarity.... in short, this can lead to problems getting other goodies in the oil to stay in suspension and to work properly.

The piece on the landmark lawsuit with Castrol is spot on...I could have written it myslef...in fact, if we search the outdoor wire archives, I did write something very similar a couple of years back.

As for Mobil, read labels carefully, there is still a full synthetic out there.

Interestingly enough, Group III's are all most of us ever need with regular oil change intervals but the point about not dropping prices is also spot on.

You should see whats happening with ATF's.....

One interesting side note on Amsoil Series 2000.

In the winter I work at a ski resort and my truck sits and cold soaks for 48 hrs or more at a time. I switched to Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 for improved starting and cold flow and it was like night and day. The film strength (e.g the degree of protection from metal to metal contact) was so good in the Amsoil, I had no concerns about running a 0W-30. I run a 5W-30 in the summer.

The fuel economy benefit is also measurable.

I do not work for Amsoil or sell Amsoil, I just do my research and it makes /made sense to me.

David

David