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timing belt what to replace ?

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Old 12-26-2009, 11:19 PM
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timing belt what to replace ?

well ive been putting it off for awhile but it was last changed at 59k from what i know... its now at 180k plus what stuff should be replaced i just know its gonna cost me a arm and a leg chairfall:
Old 12-27-2009, 03:29 AM
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I'm in the process of doing mine now.. Mine was last changed at 77,000 and now its at about 190,000. My water pump just went out last week so I'm replacing the timing belt, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, thermostat, spark plugs, and all bolts(17 year old bolts are getting a little rusty and soft) at the same time. I got a timing belt/water pump kit off ebay for $102 shipped and everything else from Napa for about $50. The kit included the belt and pulleys, water pump, and some seals and a gasket.
Old 12-27-2009, 04:54 AM
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Belts and hoses if it's time to replace them (approx every 40,000mi), waterpump would be easiest to do now, so would t-stat, idler pulleys....
how are you going to deal with the hydraulic tensioner?

I gotta do mine again too, but I'm waiting for warmer weather!
Old 12-27-2009, 10:15 AM
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not sure if you looked at this yet but just a reference for you http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timing_belt/
Old 12-27-2009, 10:44 AM
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ya i looked at that but what i need is a list of parts i just dont want to do all that work just for something i didn't replace fail 15k down the road
Old 12-27-2009, 05:08 PM
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Good luck with that.
Old 12-27-2009, 05:17 PM
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I would replace all of these components (pictures have Toyota part numbers too). For prices check out www.toyotapartsales.com.

Timing Belt Idlers



Timing Belt Tensioner


Water Pump


Timing Belt (of course)
Old 12-27-2009, 06:38 PM
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what about crank and camshaft seals?
Old 12-28-2009, 07:09 AM
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Don't forget the Blue Point tensioner tool. I bought mine from Snap-on and it makes the job a whole lot easier. I didn't have to unbolt the AC compressor or the PS pump when i did mine last week. Just opened er up based on the writeups already mentioned, cut off the old belt (in retrospect, I could just as easily removed the No2 idler pulley) marked TDC positions on both cam sprockets and three points on the crank pulley and away I went. The Bluepoint tool is great. It compressors the tensioner very well making reinstallation of the t-belt a snap. Just watch out when you pull the crankshat pulley. Mine was stuck prettyt hard and i pried mine off. In the process, I dropped in on the floor and chipped it beyond repair. now I'm having trouble finding a boneyard replacement....
Old 12-28-2009, 09:25 AM
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good info so far just gotta figure out where to get 250ft lb torque wrench and make a tool to hold the pully

Last edited by Elton; 12-28-2009 at 09:27 AM.
Old 12-28-2009, 01:04 PM
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Don't know how good they are, but Lowes has the torque wrench.
Old 12-28-2009, 02:37 PM
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o boy almost 450 bucks in parts alone time to start putting some money aside
Old 12-28-2009, 03:04 PM
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All Toyota parts can be a somewhat expensive affair, but definitely worth it. I think I spent about $1100 in Toyota parts when I rebuilt the top-end of the engine (including the remanufactured heads).
Old 12-28-2009, 03:19 PM
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ya my cv boot ripped so now ill have to buy new stuff for that
Old 12-28-2009, 04:42 PM
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@ 90,000 I replaced.....

belt
crank and cam seals
waterpump
thermostat
crank bolt
drive belts
and coolant
Old 12-28-2009, 05:51 PM
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With the manual tranny you can torque the crank bolt without a holder for the pulley.
Put the truck in top gear and set the parking brake. It's almost too easy.
I also found it a heck of a lot easier to get clearance to work after I pulled the radiator out.
Old 12-28-2009, 10:45 PM
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don't forget the easy method to loosening the crank bolt with the starter. making sure to put the wrench in a place that is solid enough and use either a good long wrench or pipe on a breaker bar on the ground as not to mess up the radiator or any thing else for that matter. This is the part that I had more issues with than the tightening of the bolt.
Old 12-28-2009, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MAIS0N
I also found it a heck of a lot easier to get clearance to work after I pulled the radiator out.
Definitely remove the radiator and fan, it makes a huge difference when working on the front of the engine.
Old 12-29-2009, 07:50 AM
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Any pics show how to change?
Old 12-29-2009, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by mastacox
Definitely remove the radiator and fan, it makes a huge difference when working on the front of the engine.
X2, I've seen a breaker bar destroy things when it wasn't in a solid place when the starter was turned.


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